Evening Star Newspaper, December 3, 1922, Page 79

THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON', D. C., DECEMBER 3, 1922—PART 4. ‘Neck Lines Grow Higher in the Day and Much Lower in Evenin The professional and amateur In i clothes worked together to offset the ungraciousness of this neck line, which was not intended for every woman. But no one particular method | | prevailed, and none was especially | successtul, although the varlety of| | effort lent charm to the costumery. * ¥ % HIS season there Is a running i fight going on between designers | iand the public. Women are not| | adopting every change offered in ap- | | parel this year. They prefer to con-| tinue the chemise frock, the loose | girdle or belt, the Italian neck line, although they submit to long sleeves | instead of short ones. Yet there are | | changes which they will have to ac- |cept. The public may cling to the |slip-on frock for another half cen- | | tury, for what women did once women {will do again; but they are gradu- ating Into the full skirt attached to {the end of a fifteenth century bodice and they are beginning to accept the ! | round neck line finished with the flat | bertha of lace. This lace is thread or | {metal. The collar Is deep or shallow. | The shops realizo this trend of affairs, for they advertise in glowing | terms such collars as our immediate | ,ancestors wore. Last spring a woman lhwi!ated to embellish a severe neck {line with anything so frivolous as lace. Only the few dared it. Now {the many turn thelr attention to it. These collars can be made of any lace one poasesses or is able to buy, but {cheap lace Is barred. It has no place lln such decoration. 1If you cannot| |afford a good collar, if you do not| | Possess precious lace that can be fashioned into one, avold the fashion. Still, with all these changes, the | Italian neck line persists. No prophet i1s sufficlently bold to say that it will | | disappear in the immediate future. Too many of our new gowns are fash- |foned with it for us to give up the idea. Many of the dressmakers pre- | fer to cut a frock as It has been In-! stead of Inventing & new decolletage, | but there is always the relief of a |lace collar for it. and there always should be the rellef of a necklace. And regarding necklaces it may be S ! well i arni i, EVENING GOWN OF ALMOND GREEN VELVET CAUGHT OVER ' merk 1o taree and the shoalders are | ONE SHOULDER WITH A STRAND OF CORAL BEADS. THE MATE- v c] - | RIAL IS DRAPED IN ORIENTAL MANNER OVER ONE SHOULDER AND | haee. Round beads dvaw atténtion to UNDER ONE ARM. flesh by seemingly increasing it. To | avold this jewelers iInvented the BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE. !woman she could not stand its harsh- ' graduated string of pearls. HE neck line Is not quiescent.|Nnesa But the American woman, like| AIl bead necklaces should be pat- It rises and falls. Even the those on other continents did stand {t. | terned after the jeweler's idea, but| casual observer feels there are | It Was low or high, straight across ' the woman with the large neck and restless forces behind it, forc- | the shoulders, or dipping in front or the fleshy shoulders should not wear . Jog Tt to changh withithes waon: i back; but, whatever its exact forma- any kind of round necklace, except | A year ago the Parls dressmakers tion, it was as troublesome as a flea, pearls. No one should ask her to tried to impose the high collar upon 'and for the same reason that a flea forego that pleasure. a public which refused it, but the I8 troublesome—it hopped, skippedand Ty return to the tricks that hold | effort, without any appreciable suc-|3umped oyer the’neck and shoulders. oblong necklines together. Jenny of cess, left a trail of discontent and|NO mitter bow well one arranged it Parls, whose tricks Americans adopt. | uncertainty. No woman was quite ( sure that the bateau neck kne was secure. Tt had been accepted with- out cavll during the war and after it. True, every one disapproved of it at firat. Critics and artists spoke of ugliness and warned the American | | | cepted. Dressmakers Have Tilted 2 Cornucopia of Ideas Over Public—You May Catch What You Will and Make It Your Own—Problem of the Hour Which Faces Every Woman Is What Decolletage to Adopt—Oriental Ideas Rule at Present for Evening Wear—Propaganda for the High Collar in Several Shapes. A FRENCHWOMAN GIVES T BACK BY USING FL OF GREEK DRAPERY IN A BL. Straps of jewels over the shoulders, | supporting negligible bodices, are re- |vived. The gown. that Is high in front and disappears in back is with us again. A French model recently |sent to America shows a new ar- | rangement for the back of an evening {gown, and its success started up a 'HIS BFFECT OF AN UNCOVERED H-COLORED ‘l’HIF ON BETWEEN THE FOLDS K VET GOW’ Yet the high collar is the fashion. No one disputes that truth, and a fashion observer 8 foolish who claims that any new style will not be ac- The ups and downs of skirts proved the fallacy of prophecy. All one can say is that the problem of | the hour which faces every woman is what decolletage to adopt If s continues with the so-called Itlian neck line, she must succeed thro various experiments in breaking its length and holding it in place. One fashion established beyond per- adventure is the extreme decollctage for evening. Although the Moyen age fashions are in full swing and will be, the orfental exposure of the upper part of the body is a success- ful experiment The dressmakers have induced women to drop the high- | necked frock after 7 o'clock in the evening. Doing this, they have re- sorted to extraordinary and eapricious expedients for emphasising the change. The orlental 1deas rule. The Cambodian ballet in_-Paris started fashlons swinging toward Before Marriage. - One of the 999 problems that present present themselves to the bride-to-be during the three or four weeks before the great event is to take place fs this: Who should entertaln the bridegroom’s relatives if they come from out of town? This is a question Indo-Chino. Even the Venetlan Moyven age gowns, which comprise a long, straight bodice with a slightly full skirt gathered to the bodice just be- the wafst line, colncide with cer- tain orfental clothes. In a more dar- ing form that type of gown was worn for’ thousands of years by oriental dancers. Low * X X % HE production In Paris of Henrl Bernstein's new play, “Judith” has an undoubted effect upon the de- signs which the French dressmakers are selling to the American buyers. It will influence new spring clothes shown on the 1st of February. There- fore, there is no escape from the orfental trappings for the top of the body, probably, when one is dressed in féstal clothes. BY STERLING HEILIG. PARIS, November 23, 1922. N Paris, girls wear heels front. It does not mean that they walk backward. The heels are, truly, where the toes ought to be, but the toes are not where the heel ought to be. The heels are simply under the toes. But no heels are un- der the heels. There's only one thing under the heels—the earth! Angd, so, sloshing around in these monstrosities of shoes, the heels- front girl is thrown backward. Ot course, she does not wear heels- 1 sagging feminine figure of the pres- ent hour. Unused muscles are strengthened. Knees and hips ar shifted to a new support of the sloppy profile, which’ is beginning to frighten one and all! The only other remedy would be & corset. But it s just to continue go- that the eccentric front in public. The strange shoes are | merely for practice—to lift up the general fashion for that sort of thing. In this gown the back is of flesh pink chiffon or georgette crepe. It ex- tends to the top of the shoulders and drops to the waist line, tightly stretch- ed over the skin.. Over this panel the material of the gown is draped or cut in'a deep decellete. Sometimes it 1s V-shaped, and so deeply pointed that a band of flat flesh pink roses shows beneath it at the waist line. Again, it 1s draped in Arab hood effect. It Is a clever trick and a gracious one, for it softens the-skin.* Only ex- treme youth should totally uncover the back, but any woman, unléss she is padded with flesh, can attempt an extreme decolletage if she first cov- ers the skin with flesh chiffon or crepe. It Is orfental sophistication. The hiding of flesh by thin veils is more alluring than its exposure. The spinelly neck line, which has had its followers in theatrical work, 18 revived for those who are not young enough to stand the girdle bodice. It is arranged by bringing a point of the skirt material to the neck in front, fastening it there to (& ribbon which ties at back. The bodice is merely a girdle of whatever material one desires. The newest gown that adopts this decolletage—if one may call a thing so fragile by so large a name—is of soft brocade in dull blue and rust. The girdle-bodice 1s of silver tissue, not the heavy kind that women wore when such garments were in fashion during the war, but a new, pliable tis- sue, orfental in its suppleness. These bodices are often covered with a layer of flesh pink chiffon or georgette crepe to eliminate what- ever harshness they possess. No metallic cloth is really good against human flash. It hardens whatever it touches. If you have read this far it is easy to realize a potent fact which pene- trates all fashions this winter, which is that the dressmakers have tilted a cornucopia of ldeas over the public. You can catch what you will and make it your own. Some are new; some are old, very old. (Copsright, 1922.) Little Fruit Cakes. One cupful each of citron, figs, raisins and dates chopped fine; four eges, three cupfuls of sugar, two cupfuls of butter, one cupful of mo- lasses, and one teaspoonful each of cinnamon, cloves and mace. Add a teaspoonful of soda dissolved in one- half a cupful of water and two tea- spoonfuls of baking powder sifted with one-half a cupful of flour. Add flour to make it stiff enough to roll! out. Roll one-half an inch thick. Cut in rounds and bake In a moderate oven. — e — Princess Mary of England is very economical. She ‘is conducting her household affairs so the living ex- penses are about $5.75 a person a week. RAAARRAAARARAAAN AR € Movement Is Phenomenon of Hour in Paris, But Nobody Knows Who Started the Craze, Which Has Come as Result of Sagging g Charged to Abandonment of Corsets. THE SEPARATE HIGH COLLAI R, STRONGLY FEATURED IN NEW FASHIONS, IS SHOWN ATTACHED TO A FROCK OF BROWN WOOL REP. IT IS OF COLORED BRAID, TO THE NECK LINE OF BODICE. BEAUTY CHATS Youth Into Old Age. The really supple figure never grows old. T have seen men in thelr seventles stand as straight and look as young as men barely thirty, and I have seen women of sixty or more, times a grandmother, with the youth- ful slimness and activity of quite young girls. 1 have in mind a woman of sixty-four who looks, from the back. when a hat conceals her gray hair, like a girl of eighteen. This is never due to luck, but is due to exercise and perseverance. Some peo- ple, of course, retain their youth longer than others. They never seem to §0 to any special pains to take care of them- and yet youth stays with them. But these women are unusual. My advice is not for them. They are peculiarly blessed and do not need it. My advice is for the average woman who will grow £tiff and bent and wrinkled as the years advance unless she takes precautions to preserve her figure and complexion. The first bit of advice is—don't get fat. Layers of flesh will keep you from exercising and will cover up any re- maining trace of youth or grace. A girl of seventeen with a fat figure does mot look young. The second bit of advice is—exercise the walst. If the waistline {s supple all the motions of the body will be easy and graceful If the waistline is stiff the whole body will seem stiff. Besides it will prevent a great number of nat- ural little motlons and exercises which, and many ! selves, they live quite unhealthy lives | 3 that, of course, does not arise where the bridegroom's famlily lives in the same town as his flancee. But when the parents of the bridgroom come | from even a short distance it is i courteous to see that they are housed BLACK VELVET EVENING GOWN | comfortably for the night following CUT IN DEEP POINTS, FRONT |and usually the night preceding the AND BACK, WITH THE SPACE wedding, or at least to give them a FILLED IN WITH A PLASTRON OF | convenient place to dress for the oc- FINE METAL TISSUES. casion. There is a very old rule that would has just put out & new model of black | Make it seem Incorrect for the bride- molre In which the neck is held in |EToom to be housed under the same place by a broad band across the|Toof With his bride-to-be the night Y/ front. The sketch shows it. The |before the wedding. In fact, he is smart Frenchwoman wears her string |not customarily the house guest of of pearls or crystals under this band, not | the bride's family at any time imme- over it. diately preceding the wedding. This IN THIS BROCADE GOWN, WORN *x k% |1s the rule. but of late years it has AT THE OPERA, THE FRONT OF | [ENNY has started the American DOf been kept very strictly, and in THE BODICE RUNS UPWARD TO!J aressmakers on doing propagands the marriage arrangements of many A GOLD RIBBON TIED ABOUT |{work for the high collar in several|Of (the prominent families whose THE NECK TO HANG IN LONG |shapes. Whether or not Americans|d2uFhters become the brides of STREAMERS AT THE BACK. will accept it no seventh son of a|forélsners the bridegrooms in ques- | soventh son can tell. They may wear | tion remain from the time they arrive and patted it neatly into place, it|it in the popular French manner,|in .this country, shortly before the went off at & rakish tandem in five i which I8 to keep it separate from the | wedding, till they depart with -the minutes. Sedate women, suddenly |frock, casually attaching it to the newly-made bride. seeing themselves in a street mirror, | front of the neck line. This fashion| Among most middle-class Amerl-| found that the neck opening had jis new in America. It is six monthscans, however, there is a prejudice slipped well over one arm to expose:cld in Paris. The first small fashion \against this, and usually some rela- 4 2 wide segment of the back and arm. {that American noticed at the races in tive or cloge friend of the bride's A frantic adjustment followed, but the episode was ceaselessly repeated. The trade people, &s usual, scent- inventing schemes by which this ob- long opening at the meck would be- come less rakish. The French Jew-| elers brought out the platinum shoul- der cha'a, which linked the two edges of the neckline together. Those who could not afford platinum used frock- colored bands of velvet or satin rib- | bon across the shoulders to serve the same purpose. Last August in Paris the American dressmakers who were buying models for us found a clever idea exploited by smart women in the use of a flat THE HIGH EVENING FROCK |velvet bow knot, embroidered in CONTINUES TO BE FASHIONABLE, | rhinestones, which held the neck line ESPECIALLY WHEN THERE IS A [gecurely together at the shoulder tips. FLOATING PANEL AT BACK. IN| oOther tricks employed to steady THIS ONE THE NECK LINE IS SO |this rebellious decolletage were jet IN FRONT THAT IT |bretelles, vhich were snapped to the ‘WRID Al edges of the neck line as they passed BONE WHILE THE FABRIC IS CUT | over it, and tiny silk cords that were AWAY OVER THE SHOULDERS |100ped through a ring &t the back TWO DEEP POINTS c‘..INAUGfl'l' snd knotted in small tassels of silk A JEWELED BUTT( floss or silver in the front iy, lea.s. A ing a penny in the offing, immediately | eled velvet, In braid. directed their clever imagination to |popular models of this season is in Deauville, where they excitedly went for information, was this separate {collar in leather, in ribbon, in jew- One of the brown, the neck line in the usual ob- long and the collar of brald latticed in front, with ends attached to the! front of the bodice. If there’s propaganda for these high collars, the argument against them is strong and potent. They will surely cause a double chin, say adversaries. They push the flesh up against the ears and jawbone unless one has the neck of a chicken. No American woman will risk that. She will let high collars sink Into the discard, no matter if every French woman wears them, if she sees her exhausting sac- rifices In diet, exercise and sleeples ness go by the board. She has re- fused to wear dog collars of jewels for a dozen years because they push flesh against the face. She discarded high corsets because they pushed flesh under the arms. She stopped wearing high shoes because they pushed flesh above the edges. She firmly, finally and absolutely refuses to bulge. family asks to house the: fiance be- fore the wedding when he comes from out of town. If there is no such obliging friend then he should of his iown accord suggest that he remain at & hotel or boarding house. In this icase he should, of course, pay his own bills. ~ However, the bridegroom’s mother and father are usually regarded as the guests of the bride's family for the wedding and they may either be entertained at the bride's house or, if more convenient, at the home of a near friend or relative. If there is |no place for them but a hotel or boarding house, the bride’s family should make all arrangements for the expenses of the sojourn there. Needless to say, if the bridegroom’s family sre very much better to do than the family of the bride, then such expenses should not be borne by the bride’s family. In that case the bridegroom would very tactfully make arrangements at a hotel for the accommodation of his parents and gently Insist on paying the ex- penses. iing corsetless remedy of heels-front is tried! The craze fs notable. Nobody knows who started it. No leading dress- maker clalms it—despite the valuable publicity which could result from 'such a claim; because the Paris pa- | pers are jibing about heels-front, and |all the shoemakers are busy making ! modifications. The heels-front girl is everywhere— rich, poor, Intelligent, ignorant, ele- gant and commonplace. Which shows that here, in Paris, she is worried about her sagging fis- ure—she who was going to be so straight and graceful without cor- sets! i | * k X ¥ VHEY took the corsets off in 1913 They were sald to have acquired the panther’s slouching grace—sup- ple, relaxed, unjointed. Rodin drew & scheme of how they ought to roll on their haunches. We were back to undulatory grace, and the harmonious wrigglings of the girls of Seville and Venice. In six months waists increased six inches—and have since continued to increase. Never have girls eaten 80 ‘heavily, In good soclety. I remember how, in September, 1913, three emanci- pated ones destroyed h saddle of lamb, after slices of melon and big portions of potted pigeon, and there followed a Melba peach and pastry! “Must have strength to dance the tango! the girls sald in 1913, when they took the corsets off. They had a place to put it! It s said that the place has now be- THE HEELSFRONT GIRL IN PARIS. NOTE THE HEELS UNDER THE TOES OF THE SHOES—AND NO HEELS WHERE THEY ONCE WERE. Copyright by Sterling Heillg. e e ——————————————————————————————————— come a “corporation,” like the pud-|Irene Bordoni, famous in Paris as a ding-bag that Jack the Giant Killer|fashion figure, claims that even heels- wore in front to fool the ogre. front will not save the situation! Only, they have fears, finally, that| She maintains that women, in Parls, it does not fool the ogres at all—|are in a “jelly-fish condition,” due to while only too sure that thelr uncor-|the absence of corsets. She afirms seted figure in saggiug, slumping, set-|that without corsets we shall soon tiing. have “walking barrels and bolsters, A girl with a perfect physique, Mile. | not women, in Paris and New York!" ‘ WITH ITS FRONT ENDS ATTACHED By Edna Kent Forbes. lin themselves, would help keep the 1 body young. | Waist bending exercises are the best 1 These will take flesh from the abdo- { men, hips, and up and down the back. | Stand with the hands on the hips, bend forward and backward as far as pos- sible and as far as possibls to each side. Jane.—In practicing deep breathing, stand before the glass at first, to be sure that you have the correct position, and then inhale deep breaths that fill the lower part of the lungs. Hold while you count three and then exhale slowly Repeat this performance ten times at 1 and Increase it cach day. b4 | first, stop the breathing for an in and then return to it immediately, as {this only means that you arc taking into your blood more oxygen than you ou find that you become dizzy at tant have been accustomed to having: but ! since 1t also shows you how you have jbeen starving your system previous to Ilhll. it is too important to be ignored | any longer. Gradually, this dizziness | will disappear and with it wiil be richer iblofld. improved health and a clearer | skin. | —_— Ginger 1s mentioned in the ancient Roman tariff lists and was Introduce | into the Island of Jamaica from the | East Indies by the Spaniards. | Bielefold, 2 Westphalian linen town prints its bank notes on linen and st Heels-Front Girl Now Pointing Way As Feminine Figure Is Put on Trial “If you want your hushand to stay at home,” advises Irene, “wear cor- mets! Husbands, tired after their day's work, are not satisfied to come home and look at wives who swell ¢ sag!” The girls trust to heels-front! * *x x % \HEY have hitched their wagon to a star. Like this. They aim to follow the blessed mannequins. Like this. The high fashion pundits reg- ularly claim to laugh both at the corset and heels-front. Among them the most outspoken in Molyneux, the young Napoleon of dressmaking., who since the war has leaped to control of the greatest establishment of the capital, imposing, very much, the styles. According to Molvneux, all fem- inine figures are perfect—after they are dressed. The corset people have been coming to see his people, ask- ing 1If they will not have their man- nequins wear corsets made to meas- ure for them. They took Hebe's meas- ures, and made stays. But she never : wears them! *“We like a supple walst line made by a soft girdle” says Miss Dorothy, the private smec- retary, “and, not a stiff corset. Just a tiny little soft whale-boned girdle!” And there you are. Miss Hebe can do it. And, just to follow proud young mannequins, the mass of girls risk sag and “corporation”! As to the sag, Molyneux is a bit equivocal. “You see heels-front results” I said. “You see them everywhere. Or elsc what is it? Don’t vou think their secret work is throwing back the sag? Or else, what is it?” Capt. Molyneux appeared to claim it for his waist line. Just like that! There's modesty for a styles leader! “Girdles are raised in front and they go down behind, just a tiny bit.” explained Miss Dorothy. *“It would cause & woman to stand more erect and seem to lean back more, would it not?” Hum, hum! A wondrous remedy for sagging—to draw a chalk-line round vour waist! Meanwhile the girls who sagged (and now sag less) are sloshing around the house of mornings in their heels-front shoes. Unused muscles are strengthened, and knees and hips are shifted to give new support— where new support was cruelly needed! Either heels-front does the trick— Or else you'll see a rush back to stiff corsets! L) L ) 1 e T e S S e 5=