Evening Star Newspaper, November 26, 1922, Page 75

SRR A AR gold galloon and bite of colored vel- vet. Two of these pockets are placed over the hips, the lower edge of them funning to the hem of the phort || sacket. . On topcoats, especially a good one from the exclusive h: 1se of Cheruit in Paris, there are pockets of beaver as deep as shopping bags. They are cut in triangle shape and fall open AR AR AR AR IR AR AR ANND DDA ADAMAAADABANY History Searched, Museums Ransacked, Old Pictures Studied in Efforts to Produce Effec- tive Styles—Latest Fashion Permits Economical Woman to Use Shieds and Patches of Fur and Galloon, of Tinsel and Velvet, of Embroidery and Beading—Such Opportunities Have Been Rare ' Recently—No End to the Use of Animal and Human Figures in Decoration—Purses May Be Worn Suspended From Belts. ; coat suits of the year it appears in ) may not like it, but she will be in the | gray or brown fur, bound with rough | fashion. BELOW, A: NEW USE FOR THE BEADED BAG IS TO.SUSPEND.IT * %k k FROM A WIDE BRAIDED BELT OF HERE Is no end to the use of hu- | THE SAME PATTERNL/G. man and animal figures in decora- | < ON THE LEFT, A POCKET ON WHICH HAS BEEN EMBROIDERED A TINY HOUSE DONE IN SILVER | THREADS, WHICH IS ONE OF THE NEW FANTASTIC METHODS OF | ORNAMENTATION. were imitated in various epoghs of | the world's history, not in metal, but in braid or in galloon. | They were revived this season to tion this winter. 'It's a primitive idea |rival those metal clasps, which and is in curious juxtaposition to the | quickly became a part of the oriental | fine Venetian embroidery, which 1is|movement in costumery. These cush- | .| idea of amateurs by placing a broad tarnished silver braid with a sflver tassel, it is the only decoration on a velvet dinner frock in Italtan blue. It can be made of fur, metal braid and bits of any fabric to serve winter days. * k % *x NE woman who regretted the dis- appearance from fashion of me- tallic mesh bags suddenly had an |idea that her particular bag would look well as a pocket suspended from a belt, and thereby started a new fashion. Not much newer than Romeo, this fashion, after all; for the gentle- men of medieval times carried their splendld pockets suspended from the belt, and women like Marguerite and Juliet wore tham hanging from jew- eled belts. With the Moyen age reaching out its hands to direct most of our new | fashions, it was fit and seeming that | beaded and silver bags should find | a resting place with belts to match. | They fit into our schemes of clothes. One designer emphasizes this casuel Italian beaded belt around a loose frock of empire green crepe de chine and dropping from it a beaded bag held by two broad straps. So, maybe women will begin to wear thelr purses suspended from belts, according to medieval fashfons. If might not be as safe as carrying them In the hand, for this last lap of civilization shows as many thieves and murderers in the streets as existed in the twilight ages of Europe. It might be safer to keep the idea for parties in private houses. The suspension pocket is a fashion of no slight importance, however, whether or not one uses beaded or metal mesh bags. On some of the jumper jackets, fur trimmed, there is one wide square pocket like a post- man’'s’ pouch, which dangles from a wide hip belt. It is lined with velvet and has compartments for a flat cotn purse, cards and handkerchief. THIS ELACK VELVET FROCK BY JENNY. OF PARIS, HAS TINY PORCE- FIGUR FR OM A POCKET AT THE SIDE. GL BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE. had pockets that were rarely used, it HE French say since the war | irue, but they have been without that “money has changed its | OTnament, and were suggested by the pocket.” The clothes observer, | Military tunics of soldiers. taking that sentence as a cue, _Mind you, this new pocket is some- might say that the dressmakers have | thing entirely different. It has no in- put their ideas into pockets tention of being used. It is not made The whimsical idea .of decorating | to hold one's purse or a package. It at the top to show a red velvet lin- sophisticated and artificial in work- manship and pattern. The Russian iemhr«ndery as we saw it last winter An alluring pocket that one whim- | suddenly collapsed, but it left in its sical designer put out has a large | trail this childlike idea of using fa- square of velours de laine plastered | miliar objects for fanciful handwork. over the hip of a short jacket of the | Not only childlike, but medieval. same material, embroidered with a One blouse of black velvet, designed small house, the smoke coming from | by Jenny of Paris, has a large black the chimney; it is done in silver | velvet pocket placed at one side, from thread. That idea was taken from |which two porcelain figures dangle by the Russian blouses launched in Au- |tinsel cords. There never was a more gust, which had fragile embroidery | curious idea for a plece of decoration. around the hips, the patterns sug-|As the wearer walks the little figures ing. The coat itself is black lamb's ‘wool. like fon-like ornaments were made of plain|{ There is another kind of jacket braid, if one wished to be demure, or | Which has Indian embroidered silk of thick gold braid intersected with |used as a walstcoat and ‘pockets to bands of fur and finished with amatch that are cunningly slipped un- heavy tassel—a tessel which falls! der the fronts of the jacket to fall far from the center, remember, not from |below it. They are edged with deep i the edge. | fringe. | Suddenly this immense decoration!| There isa chance for many Christ- became a pocket. In lead brown | mas Eifts in such festival pockets. It | braid, closely twisted. it forms an im- | might be a good idea to pattern them | mense disc, open at the top. on a|instead of knitting cravats for men, i dull brown crepe de chine gown. In 'who may not wear them. all outer garments with patches of |iS 2 thing of vanity and beauty, serv- ing its purpose through being decora- tive. If one wants to put a tiny col- ored handkerchief in it, very well. But one must let most of the hand- | kerchief fall out of it, securing one ' various materials, which were erro- neously classified as pockets, took hold of the clothes designers about a vear ago. Like all innovations in gesting nursery tales. Through such Russian embroidery jingle and clatter and clash marionettes. CHERUIT OF PARIS TRIMS THIS BLACK LAMB'S-WOOL TOPCOAT WITH LARGE TRIANGLE-SHAPED POCKETS OF BEAVER. i Main Streets of Nation Are Made end to the inside with a safety pin. If a small, flat purse cah be slipped | into it, that no business of the pub- | lic. It mustn’t show, that's all. | horde of rapacious designers leapt at {1t. History was searched, clothes in | museums were investigated, old pic- | tures were suggestive. Pockets by | the dozens popped out on every gar- | ment. and out of some popped colored ; handkerchlefs. !a good purpose.. They permitted her to use up shreds and patches of fur and galloon, of tinsel and velvet, of embroidery and beading. She could ! go to the work with d t. She has | [had few opportunities recently to i | empty the contents of the scrap bag | ion the Bed and search among its LI b heterogeneous collection of odds and | ends with a definite purpose in view. THESE POCKETS, EDGED WITH | Now she has the chance. FRINGE TO MATCH THE VEST OF | This winter she can assemble these FIGURED SILK, ARE PASSED small relics of faded finery intosome- UNDER THE FRONT OF POCKETS | thing new and startling—that is, If TO HANG DOWN ON EACH SIDE.|she knows how to do that sort of i thing. clothes, it started in a simple way. | Fach collection of new clothes has O gown. however costly, refuses accentuated the fashion. At this/ iV to carry a patoh of fur below hour it is one of those obsessional|the waistline to serve as a pocket. * ok kX jdeas that hundreds of dressmakers!Each dressmaker has her own way | whare in common. i of making the_ peltry decorative. Be- We have been in the habit of hiding | cause of IIIJ oriental invasion in nur pockets for several decades and |clothes, a deep cresent-shaped pocket using them as a cache. Coats have |is often chosen. On some of the best ———————nm——_——_—_w—w-—_w_w_ NG POCKET ON SIDE OF SKIRT OUTLINED WITH PLEATED FRILL TO MATCH THE FRILL ON COLLAR OF BLOUSE. a o Once the idea started on its way, & | They served the economical woman | i A JACKET OF BEIGE CLOTH, TRIMMED WITH LARGE POCKETS OF FUR, |geography in a well balanced and | 'WHICH IS CONSIDERED SMARTER it became the fashion to put a hou in the pattern of ornamentation. ‘There is one material of Paris origin that has small houses woven in colors on blocked squares. Animals are often embroidered, also, on these jackets, especially the ele- phant, which made its entrance into fashionable decoration through Rus- sia. It is the luck symbol of that country. As the republicans were in power in Americs, and Delhl embroidery was in revival the elephant appeared to please all countries. It has had a long career of success as decoration for small beaded coin purses which dangled on the arms of girls last sum- mer. It appears in rock crystal in a certain Chinese drawing room on a lacquer table, which is one of the new tricks in interior decoration. A baby elephant in costly crystal is one of the most precious presents that can be given this season. Women buy them in rose quartz, topaz, in blue crystal, to wear on a colored silken cord around the neck. No won- der, then, that they appear on pockets. A deep bdlack velvet pocket cut in s deep V, embossed with & gold em- ‘broidered elephant, 15 a trifle that any | woman can Dr‘ sny garment, Shs THIS SEASON THAN A FUR COAT. There are so many small figures of humans and animals to be bought for use as trinkets that Jenny's idea may give rise to a popular new fashion. One can put little elphants and cats, tiny dolls and rabbits, to dangle from pockets and belts by their heads. Carried far, we might look like our own American Indians. There ig no difficulty in seeing that an open fan makes a good pocket. One of the simple crepe de chine frocks of the season, with a loose, sagging blouse and a slightly draped skirt, has a wide fan across its front made from two shades of silk, con- %| terested teachers in states all over i Geography and History | Combined in Such a Way | That Children Find Study Intensely Interesting and | Learn Relations Between Various Subjects. 1S3 FLORENCE C. FOX, spe- clallst in educational sys- | i tems in the United States| bureau of education, has in- | the country In new methods of teach- | ing geography and history to the | boys and glrls. | No longer will history be a certain number of pages of dates and events, | to be memorized every night along | with other home work. No longer | | will geography be lumps of strange | sounding names of towns and rivers, | to be similarly memorized. The chil- dren of today and tomorrow will be taught these subjects. which can be \either very interesting or exceedingly | dull, by the new project method. | This method, applied to the study of | history of “the United States, was | demonstrated in an experiment staged | 1ast year by Miss Fox with the pupils | of the fifth grade in the Thompson 8heool of this city and proved most | successful. | This plan of project work originated | with Miss Fox, who developed many | | of her ideas of progressive education | { while under the direction of Col.| | Francls Parker, the noted Chicago | educator, whose theories and thelr | practical application were admittedly a quarter of a century ahead of the general ideas along these lines. One {of the newest bulletins published by | the bureau of education lists a num- { ber of these major projects as devel- oped by Miss Fox for use in thestudy of other subjects in the public schools of today. The highway project, concerning follow in the height of motor com- | |fort. The Lee highway develops the | interest in southern wonders and his- toric sites, such as Luray caverns, Lee’s monument in Lexington, Nat- - ural bridge and the land of the moun- tain folk, where lived Kit Carson and | Davy Crockett. History includes such jumps in periods as are neces- sary to visualize Muscle Shoals, Ala., which Miss Fox Teceives many in-|and the old De Soto trail in Memphis, quirles from educators all over the |where this great Spaniard first viewed country and which is to be put into {the “Father of Waters." “movies” is the project which proved! 1In addition to securing a concep- so satisfactory at the Thomson |tion of history blended with geogra- School. This combines history and |phy from a point of view of place rather than date and thus emphasiz- logical unit of study and is called [ing the true value of each spot at “The Main Streets of the Nation.” It|the present as well as a past perlod is based upon the fact that this is the |of time, problems of road construc- motor age of progress, in which the jtion for every state through which motor vehicle on the modern highway lthese highways pass are discussed 'will be as important @ factor in the !by the children. Their interest in mod- progress of civilization as has been lern feats of engineering is aroused, the railway during the railway age. [so that they will appreciate the skill- SRR ful work when actually passing along HE children take {maginary jour- |Toutes where many obstacles, such as neys -over the Lincoln highway, [CFOSSIng ravines, tunneling through the Lee highway, the Dixie highway |mountains and grading roads, have and other important routes now be- |been met and onquered. They learn ing. used for transcontinental travel |the Principles of drainage, the dif- in the United States. They locate the jferent kinds of bridges, and when one important cities along the way and |Particular variety is the logical one write and talk about the points of [to De used at a certain point rather national interest they are passing. |than any other kind of bridge. trasting lightly with the fabric of the gown. On a black velvet frock thers is & small fan over one hip made in Indian’ embroidery with discs of steel woven through it. The embroidery is in several colors to glve brilliancy. The kind of flat, bratded ornamen- tation which we assoclats with im- On the Lincoln highway, for in- stance, historic landmarks include sites which recall revolutlonary ac- tions at Trenton end Philadelphia; Gettysburg recalls, of course, the great battle’ of the civil war and Lincoln’s famous speech; the ruins of ‘mense pillows, first invented by Mar- |Fort Duquesne at Pittsburgh are tine of Paris, took the fancy of de-leloquent of the early wars of the signers this season. They find in it {French and Indians. & decoration that can be depended | So it is all through the country. on to make & good record. It is an [Portions of these highways in the old ornamient in the history of the |middle west follow exactly the trails world. ¥lat discs of matal weré worn {of ‘the early pioneers. Old Indian by people in the civilization preceding (trails across the Mississippl are now the birth of Christ, and such discs {wide - boulevards for the tourist to The fitth grade pupils at the Thom- son School were taken on fleld trips to the Highway swing-bridge in Washington, to the Anacostia bas- cule bridge and to the old Cabin John bridge to study the actual con- struction of these types of bridges from both economical and practical points of view. They were also taken where they could see steam shovels, side-dump cars, concrete mixers and other modern machinery used to construct the modern hard- surfaced road. [ EER) : IVICS also was included In this project. The children learned| PUPILS OF FIFTH GRADE OF THOMSON SCHOOL AND THEIR MINIATUR OF ROADS FOR HIGHWAYS. THE CHILDREN MADE THE EXHIBIT. what many grown folks don't realize or even think about, such as the matter of wages, of convict labor and the filnancing of a road-building project by federal government or by private enterprise. Another kindred subject discussed at length was the importance of the highway to the child himself, afford- ing him food, clothing. pleasure, convenience. A knowledge of social responsibilities was developed in these children. They reproduced in colored paper posters impressions obtained while studying highway safety. There were strpet-cleaning scenes, graphic illustrations of dan- gers of playing in the streets and the service which the traffic officers and policemen afford us. Drawing also was called upon to aid in the project work. Raflroad fare versus motor costs for travel over similar distances makes the old bugbear—arithmetic problems— really fascinating. The discussion regarding the *‘pull” required for a ton weight over four kinds of roadbed—concrete, hard gravel, loose sand and loose earth— led to the building of these four in miniature on a twelve-foot table. Toy automobiles tried out the speed on each road and reacted just as a real machine would do under similar cinditions. Similarly, the children visited the tin-can tourists’ camp and reproduced it in the parkway of their tiny speedway. The children “made up” verses on the highway subjects, taking initiative in suggesting this phase of the work, and they joyfully mem- orized such poems as “Let Me Live in the House by the Side of the Road” and “The Little Road Says Go!” This was very different from studying poems about subjects in which they had developed no interest through personal contact, Basis for New System of eaching o . EXHIBITION OF ALL TYPES Early modes of transportation, the first roads of America, the evolution of wheels, etc. brought forth many legends and funny anecdotes. as well as everyday facts. The chil- dren made their own text books, with loose-leaf maps, photographs. shor compositions and reading lessons They discussed the matter with the amily at home, too. Thus, the educationai system of the country is adapting itself more and more to the task of cultivating love for the country and every part of it Miss Fox's project might very well be termed “See America First. Motions of Plants. (ONE of the chief popular distinc- tions between vegetable and ani- mal life is that animals have power of choice and of voluntary motion. while vegetables and plants grow only mechanically. But the micro- scope seems to show that many vege- table forms can move as easily as can animals. There is 2 plant called volvox glob- ator, so minute that millions of it could be put in a drinking glass. which is seen to whirl like a top across the field of the microscope. Some plants found in ponds, which are still more minute, move habit- ually, as with an apparent purpose. Naturalists who have given closer study than others to climbing plants state that these seem to exercise the liberty of choice. Their tendrils, in climbing over pieces of wood with the {poles, will try one hole after another Juntil they Aind one that pleases them One investigator saw a tendril with draw itself after having pushed itself in a hole for thirty-six hours. _—— The jury acting in an Italian law case which lasted three months had to answer 12,000 questions and com- sult 73,800 documepts.