Evening Star Newspaper, June 25, 1922, Page 63

AT RIGAT—SINFLE FROCK OF WITH PINK AND BLUE FLOWERED BANDS. AT LEFT—FROCK OF PALE PINK CREPE DE CHINE TRIMMED WITH SILK ROSES, THE PETALS FALLING DOWNWARD. BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE. O reformers are after the children. Happy and lucky are they. They can wear their skirts as if they were shirts, and no one rises up to preach against them. The world recognizes that extreme youth must have its fiing. It may fight the flapper, but it doesn’t fight the infant. Without re- form except in the matter of hygiene, ‘without limitations In cut and color of clothes, babes may riot through life from nursery to schoolroom. Once upon a time there were limi- tations thrown about their tiny gar- ments. Over the world went a wave of reform, which bore on its crest mothers, rich and poor. good and bad, young and old. The exclusive atten- tion of the health speciallsts ap- pearocd to be directed toward chil- dren’s apparel. White was the color to be worn. Pastel shades in the block design were the alternatives. Anything with wool or silk was taboo. Velvet and fur were used for coverings. Socks and sandals coveréd the feet. Legs were bare after centuries of being covered. Rompers were substituted for slips. Minute attention by power- ful people was paid to hooks and eyes, to buttons and buttonholes, most of which were eliminated in favor of strings. Thus In those days nursery occu- pants lived by rote and rule. Even a kiss, unless guaranteed as sani- tary, was not given or received. ‘Women thought this type of dress- ing which the reformers had out- lined was settled for this generation and those to come. Human nature has such a delightful trick of believ- Ing that the creed of the moment is eternal. They forget that all creeds are like the weather vanes. Witness the change in children's clothes in the last five years. * x x = ‘RANCE constantly makes juvenile < 'changes. Paris is responsible for many revolutions in children’s clothes. She starts an idea. We develop fit. Yet Paris never worshiped at the wultar of hygiene as American moth- ers have In the last two decad The wash frock was not considered eusential in France. Over here it Is, ‘but France has insisted upon & de- ‘WHITE CREPE DE CHIND TRIMNNED gree of nakedness for youngsters that America found {mpossible to indorse until recent years. Even now we do not accept the amusing and extraordinary brevity of the French child's garments. It's a pity we do not. There Is no reason against it not even that of modesty. The last two years have brought shortened hems and wider back openings—both here and In France. ‘What France has done recently to American children is to reinstate frocks of fabrics that do mot go to the tub. Taffeta, crepe de chine and velvet are some of the accepted weaves that go to the making of clothes so abbreviated that they pro- voke laughter. In these clothes the French child presents a comical appearance. One feels it is done with a purpose; that the peculiar humor which pervades French life likes to turn {ts Infants into something amusing, something to cause a happy smile, a desire to pick up the bunch of rogulsh femininity and kiss 1t French children must know that they present this appearance, for they have a roguish expression In thelr faces. Our children give the same eftect when they wear pink and white checked rompers, their fat little feet in white sandals, their cropped hair on end. Illustrators of children catch this idea of mischief and roguishness; this beguiling clownlike effort to look irresponsible. It's the way for an In- fant to look. The French tiit their tiny frocks up- ward in the front, & trick which gives a certain bravado in itself. They do not allow the hems to touch the they flitter about the legs halfway between hip and knee. The socks are naught but tiny wrinkles of fine fabric about the ankles. Half of the time there are no socks. There is too much of an effort on | the part of American mothers to put | formality and sobriety into the cos- tumes of their youngsters when they leave the house. They are “party- fied.” There is a consclous effort to make them appear as if they were on their best behavior, whereas the French put them out as miniatures in drollery. They often look as if they had borrowed part of their mother’ clothes and were laughing at them- lves. REAL Youth Does Pretty Paris Responsible for Many. Revolutions in Children's Clothes—Causes Reinstatement of Frocks of Fabries Which Do Not Go to the Tub—Pecul- iar Humor Which Pervades French Life Likes to Turn Its Infants Into Something Amusjng—Intense Stimulation in Juvenile Styles During Present Season—Some Interesting Combinations Are Described—Changes in Hair ijeatmcnt. THE FIRST CHILD WEARS A WHITE SILK CREPE FROCK EMBROIDERED IN FLOWERS; THE SECOND, A WHITE ORGANDIE WITH POLKA- DOTS OF RED. THE THIRD CHILD WEARS A WATER-GREEN ORGANDIE WITH BANDS OF WHITE EMBROIDERY, AND THE FOURTH, GREEN uich: ORGANDIE SLIP WITH A DEEP YOKE EMBROIDERED IN BLUE. IT is the firm bellef of human nature that summer s arranged for two classes of the race—children and tired men. These are the two classes that most enjoy it. Women will atay in & hot town, go on half rations of food to save effort, and find them- selves quite content at the end of the hot-weather season. But not so a man and not children. These want their holidays In the open. They regard July, August and September as the supreme months for enjoyment. A mother of children wlill sacrifice whatever she may have of lTuxury in order to give the male and the infant a rollicking time un- der the sky. What man wears when he goes away for the hot weather is of small importance; what children wear is of vital importance. ‘This season there was intens stimulation In children's clothes. In- vention, imagination, ingenuity—this as p; was the trilogy that worked miracles. | plled and the frocks took on some- 0Odds and ends from anclent history were picked out and put to service on a fifteen-inch frock. Crude em- broidery, brilllant borders, nursery animals, flowers, fringe, were brought into action to serve a baby’s holiday. Nothing that the adults wore escaped the attention of those who gav themselves over to juvenile apparel Fringe has been extensively worn by women; therefore the house of Cheruit, In Paris known wherever there is a nursery for its inventions in small clothes, put miniature fringe on a minfature frock. One -especial frocks s but a scant bit of material of red linen. It Is embroidered in white rings from neck to hem, which does not mean much of a stretch truly, and at the edge of each ring dangles linen fringe Once it was tried on clothes for grown-ups. Whatever the embrold- ery, dangling tails of fringe were ap- what the appearance of costumery as ‘we expect it In- the Friendly Islands. There 1s another frock made in a sheer spirit of amusement. - Woe be to any sad or petulant child who wears it. It Is rose-colored linen, bulilt as an apron. Its sole reason for existence is an immense blue elephant that lowers its snout and curls its tall across the front of the garment. The square on which the elephant is placed is really a pocket, something to put playthings in. Any mother could make the apron for any child. It also represents that air of comicality which the French ‘lend to juvenile apparel. There are linen frocks without number for children who play on beaches, who romp in country lanes, ‘who dash about on big farms. One is of yellow linen with a tight blue band going around the middle. ‘There is another band at the hem and one at the neck done in scrolls of blue. This combination of pale yel- low and blue has met with much suc- coss. * % k % would be wiser If most women would be convinced that organdle is better for youth than for age: One of the mistakes of this summer is the unwise offering of organdie to women. Whether it is white or col- ored make no change in its lack of Jellymaking time has come again! The housekeeper who loves her work will welcome fit. n “Pectin”-is the essential jellymak- ing substance found in fruits. A combination of pectin, fruit juices, actd and sugar, in the correct pro- portions, is necessary in order to make a good jelly. It has been found that pectin is more abundant in unerdripe fruit than in that which is fully ripe. The best fruits for jelly- making are apples, .currants, goose- berries, grapes and oranges. BSome fruits rich in pectin do not contal apd. guava are examples of this truth), .. enough_ pectin to make Jelly by them- selves are cherries, rhubarb, peaches, pineapples, strawberries and some- times raspberries. These fruits must havs pectin added to them in some way.. One good way ls to combine ‘| them with the juice of ene of tho: fruits which are rich in pectin, and another way i{s to make your owpn prepared pectin from the thick, white underskin of oranges and add this to the non-pectin fruits. _ To Make Prepaied Pectin From Oringe Skin—Only the thick, white part of the skin which lies under the yellow tind 'and when'you have & pound of it oups of cold Z It Pleasges in the Matter of Fashions. HOUSEKEEPING BY LAURA KIRKMAN, acld and.will not, therefore, make !For instince, Jelly unless.nold is added (the qnlneol | £ruit suice and boil this mixture (no The fruits. that do not mnwnlf:a‘r:l'“m-n twenty minutes) to’ see I i"“"“ again—this time adding equallis the fabric our mothera called amounts of pectin, fruit julce and|crepon. is used. Bhave this off -~ en Are Attractive in Su might'not wish to wear faliing roses, biit the insolence;of youth likes the suggestion. There are white crepe de chine frocks a-plenty. Some of them are mere shirts, cut without sleeves, with a bateau neckline tied on each shoul- der with_ strings .of the fabric. To give color to white there are pink end blue flowered' horizontal bands. Once we felt that good taste de- manded all white;, that bellef is shat- tered.” % *x % HE summer bride never feels quite correctly married unless she is gponsored by one or more infants who pridefully strut In front of her with flowers. The idea goes_back to earliest Grecian times, Keeping step with this movement, - Molyneux of Paris has designed a Greclan costume for baby bridesmaids. that should satisfy -+the American girl who searches for a new-touch in the pro- cesslonal of. her wedding. The costumes he' has created are merely bits of white crepe de chine. They are arranged In the Greek man- ner across the shoulders. The fabric hangs low on one side ‘and is- banded under one arm to show a mere im- pression of a white chiffon underslip. The legs are bare and the feet are slipped into white satin sandals. The silver ribbon. © The child carries a bowl of sflver cloth bound with sil- ver ribbon which is overflowing with roses. suitability. The fabric is too harsh and severe for any skin that has met many winters of weather. On ex- treme youth it is delightful. There are funny little frocks of it for children which end just after they begin. One is of white dotted with red. Its most pretentious part Is a deep collar that goes over the top of the bare arms in Imitation of the court bertha worn by queens of the Victorian era. Another little Invention in organ- dle {s water green in color, that cool, translucent green which suggests certain kinds of Chinese jade and shallow water. This tiny frock has a panel down back of its.materlal, embroidered in blue flowers. . A wide girdle matches the panel It is placed below the fat little stomach and per- mits five inches of skirt to flare out below it. Crepe de chine is as popular among sets of children as for older people. One gown of it is alluring. It is of pale pink, with a slight fullness below the shoulders, back and front An embroidery design of wide open roses with their petals dropping dis- tinguishes it from the commonplace. This is an effective design in em- | broildery. It has been done with applied material such as rose pink organdie to white organdie. It is more graceful “than solild roses for it gives an alr of fragility. Age oups of cold water, reheat to bofl-| Ing point and let stand overnight In| & cool place. In the morning reheat once more to bolling point, strain and use (or bottle and keep on-ice till needed). To Use Home-Prepared Pectin—As fruits of various degrees of ripeness contain different amounts of pectin, no definite .rules can be lald down regarding how much of .this home- prepared pectin to add to the so-call- Certainly this 1dea should stimu- late the imagination of an American bride. If she wishes to depart from the conventional wedding gown she can adopt.one designed by Molyneux for Mlle. Hebe of Paris. It is Greek in classic drapery, open at one side, the hair bound with silver ribbon and arranged In° a’ Psyche knot at the crown of the head. *.% %k & TBERE are no shocked reformers to cry out against bobbed hair on a baby. Real youth does pretty much as It pleases In the way of showing off its small person. Its be- havior is severely censored, it is put on such limited rations of food, its hours of sleeping and waking are under martial law;. therefore, the least we can do, we, the, grown-ups, hair is filetted with two bands of soft | mmer is to permit it to look young withod crittcism. : E There was an attempt last year © reinstate the long pictorial curls tha were the glory of most children duf Ing the Victorian era, but the effod ‘was a failure. Children are suf clently difficult to care for in necessl tous ways, so mothers considered { wiser to limit the length of hair, by they accepted the fashion for curls. It is whispered that some young sters of four years have the perma nent wave, not the wave that kink and dries and riakes one appear as | a pillow of straw were on one's head but the newer kind, done with of and rolled into tight little curls, run ning in {rregular rows. Older foiks now adopt this type o permanent curling. Even grand mothers have rows of these curls pu over the temples. They are not vertd cal. They are horizontal. They df not dangle. They lie close to thl head in imitation of the wig worl by men during the revolution anl still worn by judges In Britain's lad courts. There is no doubt of the revival d short curled hair for children. Moth ers are putting forth efforts achieve it without the use of hol irons. They roll it in papers, thej curl it with combs. This is. a direct reversal of hail fashion for juveniles. Thousands o} bobbed-hair children have bobbed |around us for two decades withoul straight huir, and one of the reasoni we criticize the middle-aged womat who cuts off her hair is that shi imitates the nursery. * k% % 'HE hats worn are simple, The beehive, the mushroom, sugges them. Any fabric will do. Velve! and felt are taboo for hot weather but crepe de chine, straw and taffets run riot on the heads of the young Pine straw is privileged. It is deco: rated with silk roses without leaves maybe it is trimmed in tiny loops ol ribbon to make a ruch. The idea twisting and fluting narrow ribbod | for hat adornment is so widely spon (sored by milliners that no age of | class escapes it. The essence of the whole thing mad be that children have determined td look sophisticated as the retort cours teous to the elders who have deter mined to look like the nursery. (Conyright, 1622. Waistcoats Leap Into Favor BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE. More women keep on their coats than take them off. Strong Is the idea that a costume must be left unimpaired. A coat sult is now a coat suit throughout its career. The skirt of it is not worn out by constant house ‘usage, while the coat is left hanging in the closet. Such was the old way. It was an extravagant way. Pric- tical Amerjcan women did not seem to realize it. Whenver they. came into the house they took off thelir Jackets and kept on the kirt. The result—a -shabby, stretched skirt; a neat orderly coat. Foolish manner ot dressing, this. The new method is not extrava- gant. - The only argument against it is warmth and inconvenience. Thus say the women who won't subscribe WAISTCOAT OF YELLOW LINEN TITCHED IN BROWN SILK IN A TRAIGHT PATTERN. THIS IS WORN AS A SUBSTITUTE FOR A BLOUSE WITH A BROWN SUIT. their jackets as a man does. They sleeves as if they were not.in keep- ing with the fundamentals of good taste In public. For this reason the tailors make coat sults of frock materials. That makes: all - the difference In the ed “non-pectin” fruit juices. Butyou can find out how much to add by ex- perimenting with a very little juice n before attempting to make- the jelly. |Jacket. . add twe teaspoonfuls of sugar and one teaspoonfnl of pre- pared pectin to two teaspoonfuls of t 14 jell.” If it will not, exper}: sugar, ; If yeu do mot care te.ge .te th trouble of making this home-prepar- ed pectin from orange skins.you tled pectin, send me a stamped and self-addressed envelope and I will gladly send you the address.of-a firm |the shirtwaist. that will sell-yod it by mail. Buch of pestin with the various fruit o it pleases the fancy. can | mean buy it bottled from- grocery- stores. | View Ras changed. There are various firms that are now | a1l getting out.a pure brand of-prepared [ ¥ith ja pectin to use with the : non-pectiy|must fruit julces for jellymaking. (If-your |2 local grocer does mot carry the bot-|jacket, preferably sv 4 firms also sénd their- recipes. telling[wora by & woman who likes thin you how to use their particular brand | coat suits. The one she adopts with world. In the days of tweed and homespun, of covert cloth and broad- cloth, a woman had to take ‘off her It was too uncomfortable. It was not an aid to good digestion to eat in a warm garment. Now she wears & coat suit of satin, of crepe.de chine, of slik poplin, of the new gaufre cloth, at least, new to us. Paris had it last summer. It Mosquite netting {s appropriate If The ides is that coat sults do not thick materials. The point of - That's- behind Therefore, ckets of. frock fabrics one ink of something gheerful nd womfprtable to wear under the 2 rab] iethirig that is ornamental_jn front. = The waistcoat becomes the convepient substitute for world movements. The sketch shows .the garment this waistcoat is of leaf-brewn to it. The majority, however, wear. feel a bit of shame In thelr shirt, ot yellow linen embroidered in brown. It hides the skirt, which is opaque, and permits a woman to go without corsets. It has a high back of yels low muslin that protects the jacket from moisture and five-inch sleeves that hold the shields. These are fof economy as well as cleanliness. The entire costume is calculated to withstand the heat of a hot American day and keep one neat, though hot. (Copyright, 1922.) I Colors You Choose. If every woman could color het frocks and hats to suit her taste, she iwould be dressed, perhaps, in rathet | different hues thap she actually Is, a3 things are now. And the more and more women get into the habit of wearing ready-made clothes the more they will have .to accept colors as they are presented from season to season, and not the colors that hap- pen to appeal to them. ‘While ribbon, silk and all sorts of dress goods counters present a wide varlety of colors every season, the frocks and blouses that are actually made up are less varied. Usually we have only a very few colors ta choose from. ~Street frocks are shows to us in ¥ blue and black, beige henha, possibly a gray or two, and Uttle else. The linings of black o1 dark blue wraps are similarly lack« ing in variety. Gray, gold, black and periwinkle seem to be the only colors chosen for the linings of black creps or duvetyne capes this spring and summer. Every season we seem to be vis- ited by some new and striking colof? that enjoys enormous vogue. Yet al- most never are these immensely pop- ular colors,” colors that we or an of our friends would choose if left 1o their own initiative, One season we had mustard color, a color that cere tainly was not very becoming.and {would hardly be a general favoritq { usually. French blue is more become ing to most persong than periwinkle, and yet periwinkle, the color that.pa+ ture has used nowhere else possibly than in the lining of & certain.sort of tiny small snail shell, is the colot ! that stands out as supremely papulat itor the spring of 1922. £ | Cheese Fritters. Mix two tablespoonfuls of flour, the yolk of one egg and enough syeel !milk to make a batter; then add 4 ! pinch of salt and pepper, two table spoonfuls of grated chcese aud jht white of the egg beaten. Beat.thid mixture well, then drop in emall spoonfuls into hot lard in a frying pan and fry on both sides to a nice Serve very hot. {'golden brown. | Cherry Jelly, Whipped Cream. { Soften one-quarter of a package ol | gelatin in one-quarter of a cupfut o i cold water and dissolve i half & cups {ful of boilingd water; add -mall 2 cupful of sugar and a cupfuk ol i cherry juice; stand the bowl in fcl | water and stir the mixture untl # commences to grow firm, then stir i one cupful of seeded cherries. Tu: into molds. At serving time s with whipped cream. Ménu for a Day. BREAKFAST. Strawberries Hominy With Cream Frizzled Beef Hashed Brown Potatoes Popovers . Coffes o | LUNCHEON. | Ham' Dmelet 7 | ~Melded Rice With Raisins . Chocolate Baking Powder Biscuits DINNER. Scalloped Fish- Baked Potatoes « Lettuce and Radish Salad . Cheese Balls Oottage Pudding With Chocolate Sauce Coftee