Evening Star Newspaper, June 18, 1922, Page 65

Jackets of Straw, < SMART JACKET OF BRIGHT GEORGETTE BLOUSE. RED RAFFIA WORN OVER WHITE THE FULL SLEEVES OF THE BLOUSE SHOW BENEATH THREE-QUARTER SLEEVES OF JACKET. EDGED WITH LACE FALL OVER HANDS. DEEP RUFFLES A BLACK CREPE SKIRT AND BLACK HAT COMPLETE THIS COSTUME. BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE. HERE is some serenity in sum- B mer weather, after all, for It permits one to approach the subject of clothes with leis- ure, also a bit of amusement. Why? ‘Well, for one thing, summer comes upon us during an idle hour. Every woman s chained by clircumstances 10 a terrific struggte in autumn. She must be ready to face the winter. Children must be gotten ready for school, housés cleaned, trunks un- packed, hangings, furniture and a multitude of things inspected and put in place. Things come out of storage and go for repairs or alteration. As we now live like caravan-folk, moving from place to place, it is to be expected that a new house or apartmpnt must be met and con- quered when autumn comes. Nature is the only phase of life that appears to be serene and indolent during In- dian summer days. Humans are racing about with the excitement ants show at the tread of a footstep. Whenever reform has been broached for this autumnal excitement it has come to naught. One still meets three-quarters of the unpleasant ob- stacles of life at the end of Septem- PERSONAL By William T is no wonder that the average woman drifts with the clouds In June, lazily, easily, und with an in- born conviction that this 18 the time to release the tension of life, to let muscles relax, to take the days as they come. Clothes are more colorful, simpler to adjust, leds expemsive to procure. Except in the ultra-fashionable classes, there is no necessity to pay the high prices demanded by winter fabrics and peltries. By this token, we do not wrinkle the brow with anxiety or work with pad and pencil in elementary mathematical sums. ‘The shops are filled with delectable materials. Patterns push themselvees forward into better development each season. When fabrics are cheap a woman does not mind spoiling a yard or two in an experiment toward an effect which she désires. So the nerves are let down. The dressmakers are too canny to permit women to slip into forgetful- ness of clothes merely because the sun shines warm and thé wind blows from the south; from that south where “a woman sits with her hand on a hammock, a song on her lips, a rose in her lap.” This is a picture of exquisite indelence, but one can be Brady, M. D. Noted Physician and Author. Focal Infection of Joints. In & report giving the statistics in some 411 cases of chronic Infectious arthritls (long-lasting Jjoint inflam- mation due to invasion of the joints by germs), Dr. Frank Billings, whose name s assoclated with the focal {nfection theory of arthritis, observes that one-third of the cases have a rather sharp onset with some fever and two-thirds of them are of In- sidious or gradual onset with no fquer. The focus of infection responsible for the joint disease in these 411 cases was tonsil only in 205 cases, tonsil and teeth in ninety-seven cases, testh _ only in twenty-seven cases, teeth and sinus or gallsac or prostate or other focus in 109 cases, uterus and tubes in twelve cases, bronchl in five cases, middle ear in one case, appendix In one case, nasal sinus in twelve cases, and so on, showing that chronic joint trouble may be caused by many foct other than infected tonsils or bdad teeth. Fallure to discover or recognize the real focus of infection at the begin- ning was illustrated in some of these cases. Dr. Blllings mentions the cases of two men of middle age whose joint trouble was associated with jame muscles and whose séptic focl (tonsils and some infections of the teoth in both cases) were eradicated surgically. Immediate partial recov- ery followed in both cases, dut later both pstients had relapses and ‘both Dresented signs of gallsac inflamma- tion.” Both were operated on for the gall bladder trouble, and following the removal of this hidden focus of infection both men made complete and permanent recoveries from thelr Joint troubles. 7 In another csse & woman improve for & time after removal of infects . fected teeth, then grew worse again. Presently she dovelopéd acute appen- alcitls, her appendix was removed, and then she made a prompt and com- plete recovery from her chronic joint disease. Note how particularly I avold say- ing rheumatism, which doesn’t mean anything in particular. The term only encourages victims of all sorts of joint and other troubles to pro- crastinate or to undergo various kinds of maltreatment alleged to be good for “rheumatis: Among the remedial measures ém- ployed with benefit as adjuncts in the treatment of these 411 cases of schronic infectious arthritis, before and after diagnosis and eradication of the sqptic foci, Dr. Billings men- tions the use of diet balanced for the |individual patient, palliative drugs, cheerful environment, good hygiene, iphysical therapy, occupational ther- |apy, mechanical therapy, hydro- |therapy, passive manipulations and iactive exercise in appropriate es. jand at the right stage of the iliness. i For instance, he commends the al- ternating , hot and cold shower or spray bath under considerable pres- Isure to tone the general circulation, the effects being equivalent to those of the cold plunge or shower, but de- void of the disagreeable shock. This alternating hot and cold pressure spray also improved the circulation in the affected joints, which is always poor. Hot-air baking of the joints, or heat applied otherwise, as by elec- tric radiant heat, was found of much value in treatment. In short, it is the opinfon of Dr. Billings that the careful diagnosis of all septic foct and thelr proper treatment, together with the geueral trestment outlined, is the best we have today. lwn-nl and extraction of some in- THE SUNDAY STAR. WASHINGTON, D. ., JUNE 18 1922_PART 4’ It Carries a Bodice of Taffeta, Also Gay Flowers, Like Nasturtiums—It Is Worn ¢ Over a Foundation of Double Chiffon, SelfrColored—Tinsel Effects Are Strongly Recommended by Embroiderers as a Substitute for Gold and Silver Braid—The p 1N x,-h N\ ) SO NG A | N Idea Is Good on Lace. I\ AT LEFT: CAPE OF TAUPE GEORGETTE CREPE GATHERED ABOUT THE SHOULDERS AND EDGED WITH NARROW BANDS OF OTTER. CENTER: DRESS OF DARK BLUE CREPE WITH MANY TUCKS. BOTH NECK AND SLEEVES ARE FINISHED WITH ORGANDIE RUCHING. AND SKIRT OF LACE DYED TO MATCH BODICE, WITH AN EMBROIDERY DESIG well assured that the southern woman knows how to meet the sum- mer weather with an enviable as- sortment of clothes. It is she whe has guided the continent in its ef- forts to meet weather with suitable covering from the 1st of June to the 1st of October. This country has harkened back to the old ways of Saratogs, of Long Branch, of White Sulphur, in the re- crudescence of printed cottons, of transparent cotton volles, of figured chiffon, patterned ginghams, challie, organdie and simple muslin. Paris is enthusiastic over figured crepe de chine. The world has gone quite mad over flowered and figured fabrics. The dwellers In great centers of humanity must think of the effect of dust and soll on light-surfaced frocks. They substitute dark colors and thin weaves. But even In this especial locality of dress, there is an ex- traordinary return to the older methods of keeping cool. Women do not hesitate to appear at smart restaurants for lunch In thin, light wash frocks. One sees, here and there, s figured foulard, a broad sash and a sunshade hat. The parasol Is brilliant this summer. One of the noveltlies is the introduction of the Japanese paper parasol It is Kept for the country and the beaches by the majority, but, bravado, -some lovely woman flares it open in the city. HE Atlantic ocean sweeps en- chanting new things to these western shores when the hot weather is assured. Among these we pick and choose for the remaining months of the warm weather. France is never idle in designing. Like a fascinating spider, she is ever spinning. This de- lights our American dressmakers. It ia not intended that tra ould wither and fade away merely be- cause the sun is hot. We ars to be constantly stimulated with new ideas or new expressions of old ideas. Such is the intention of thoss who attend to the assembling of our clothes. As an example, there {s & new Jacket in bright'red raffia. It is more sensational than the suede jackets which began’ their career in March. Bear in mind that the short coat, without a belt, with long, wide sleeves and moderately high collar, is a desirable and fashionable. gar- ment. It 18 one of the things that came in with the spring and will re- main through the autumn. The experts.thought that suede dyed In curious colors was & mar- velous thing to throw to the publle, but that idea is tame in comparison with & red straw jacket. The woman who wore it used a white georgette blouse with immensely full sleeves and frills, and a black crepe de chine skirt, to build up the costume. Raffia is not new. The idea of using straw as a trimming is not new. It goes back to Elizabethan days, to Russia under Catherine the Great, to Italy in the middle ages. It is not a pliable plece of ornamenta~ tion and the amateur looks at it askance. But it has followers. It has shuttled in and out of the fashions for centuries. ‘When it was first used as a hat, it was a sensation. It took its source BEAUTY CHATS Imagination and Health. When we were talking about the value of auto-suggestion we said that the imagination was stronger than the will and that marvelous cures had been performed by making peo- ple imagine themselves well. The Coue system is to have the patient repeat this formula: “Every day in every way I am getting bet- ter and better.” It doesn't matter whether you believe this or not. You must repeat it twenty times on wak- ing in the morning, twenty times after you get in bed at night. Coue suggests that you have a little string or ribbon with twenty knots fn it and say this formula once for every knot. This is a sort of rosary of hoalth, but the idea is simply to help you repéat the formula the proper number of times. As I _sald, it does \not matter ‘whéther you believe this or not. You say It forty times every day and you say it whep your mind is apt to be relaxed ‘and sleepy. The idea Will gradually go from your conscious to your subconscious mind and the Im- agination will take hold and begin its good work. I know that peotple will scoff-at this and many of my readers will probably write and tell me this is all nonsense. If nonsense, it is perfectly harmless. Yet he fhctethat it is not nonsense is proved by the number of people Coue has oured and the innumerable others who have been made better iagreeing with you. AT RIGHT: GOWN WITH BEIGE from the thatched roofs that kept out the rain. It was not permitted the common people for a long while after it was launched. Sumpturay laws may have been in action then. It was Elizabeth who complained that the common people were getting beside themselvese with windows. * % x k¥ IT is probable that the revival of straw for wearing apparel has come about through the enthusiasm shown in the middle ages and the rennaisance by the dressmakers. A designer remembered that straw was once frequently used for orna- mentation, that it was dyed in vari- BY EDNA KENT FORBES. by this method of imagining them- selves improved. Coue's cures are performed by influencing directly the imagination or the subconscious mind of the people who come to him, and therein, of course, lies his marvelous power. < Evelyn—"Red vaseline” is the prod- uct that is taken from the petro- leum, or the pure product before it 18 either medicated or bleached, which usually happens when making up varlous trade articles. Anxious—You do not need to re: duce your weight so much as you need ‘to correct your digestion. Ob- serve what it is you eat onm th days when your abdomen becomes 50 swollen and avold some of the foods until you discover which ones are dis- Bulld up the sys- tem also, as perfet health would ine dicate a good digéstion. Germaine—Reduce the flesh on the plu'ma legs by taking exercises for this past of the body. Standing on one foot and throwing out the other one in a kick makes an intensive exerciso for this. Another one is rolling the body as around a circle, making the bend at the hips while the hands are held at the waist line. 3 Sixty-Five—Peroxide will not bleach a switch from ‘gray to white, so it would be best for you to take it to & hairdresser who handles such work or purchase & new one. . THE NECK IS ROUND, THE SLEEVES ARE PUFFED IN VICTORIAN FASHION. TAFFETA CUIRASS, THE SLEEVES N IN GOLD THREADS RUNNING THROUGH THE MESH. ous colors, that it was used as bor- ders for tunics and sleeveless jackets. “Why not a coat of it?" thought one designer. And now there is a coat of it. Don't be alarmed about its fullness. The straw does not break and stick out in a thousand -places. The surface is as smooth as velvet. No one is liable to look like the inside of a packing box. Those who intend to really enjoy the warm weather should pay atten- tion to the fashion-fact that white chiffon and georgette crepe -blouses are definitely with us. They are in- tended to beqa conspicuous part of the costume. It is not intended to be conceajed as if it were a make- shift. It proclaims its presence by a cascade of frills down the front. Its sleeves contain as much material, if not more, than the body of the blouse. Elbow sleeves receive scant consideration from the dressmakers. When a white blouse is worn with & short jacket, having wide sleeves, its own sleeves are often in bishop shape. They are full, they sag be- low the elbow, they are gathered at the wrist into & frill that falls over the hand. This is the type of arm covering worn with the sleeveless jacket. The irevival of the latter garment is in- teresting. It is taken from Slavic costume: France began wearing it last February. She bulit it of dull | stiver cloth, edged it with ermine, put it over white lace or chiffon, pos- sibly a black crepe de chine gown. * ok ok IT i= wise to polnt out to women that in this adaptation of Russian costumery there is a chance to be cool and fashionable. The sleeveless ock s an old idea. It was tried out recently in this country. It was a forerunner of a revival of medieval tostumery, probably planned in ignor- ance of this nmew movement. To & certain extent it had been dropped. Now it is revive&in high and mighty circles abroad. Our buyers, seelng it there, are bringing it here. So it is time for women to make the best of it. It leaves the arms uncovéred, ex- cept for the transparent material of whatever weave one desires in the blouse. Short sleeves are not con- sidered correct with it. It carries 2 full sleeve gathered at the wrist, cut to a deep point, shaped in a square. . Such jackets are open down the front, are cut around and low in the neck, the armholes small, although some garments take on the pear- a Bright Hued, Swing Into Summer Fashions Dycd Lace ill Coarse Mesh IS Conaicleretl a Good Fabx;ic {0!‘ Afternoon Froch'. BLACK LACQUERED STRAW HAT, WITH SCARF IN BRILLIANT COLORS DRAPED AROUND CROWN TO FALL AT ONE SIDE. TO THIS HAT WAS AWARDED THE PALM OF VICTORY AT THE RACES, WHERE IT WAS REPEATEDLY WORN. shaped opening which shows much of the blouse beneath the arm. If one wants such a facket in simple m: terial, all well and good, but the tendency 1s toward sumptuous orna- mentation in the Slavic manner. If 2 woman has a white lace or chiffon gown for afternoon hours, notable. When they put a girdle and garland of purple pansies on gray and silver lace, they make it signifi- cant. ‘We must learn some of these man- nerisms with lace before we embark upon it. Now s the time. If color is not desired, there is the she may put o sleeveless jacket of{fashion of making the bodice of soft brocade over it, outlining the edges with metal galloon or narrow strips of white fur in the actual Rus- slan manner. It is not a fashion to be imitated In muslin, in foulard, in crepe or cotton print. It is lifted out of that class by the fact that the jacket must present a strong contrast to the skirt or the gown, that its obvious Intention is to be gay and festive. ‘When autumn brings chill weather there may be sleeveless jackets of soft fur, or even cloth jackets elabo- rately embroldered with tinsel and worn over gowns of velvet or crepe. It is not a fashion to be snuffed out like & candle. If treated rightly, it will remain with us for months. * % %% I'r is a curious idea to bring leaf brown into fashion when leaves are greenest. The dominance of the color; however, lenves no one in doubt that it is sponsored by the best. It is worn at the preasure places as often as beige. Frequently the two sre combined. It is merely a deep expression of beige, until it ukul on the tone of seal. The newly accepted crinkle fabdrics, patterned llke tea wafers, are shown in various tones of brown. Omne sees sults of this fadbric with short jackets tightened at the hip line and faced ‘with beige crepe de chine, which rolls back in a long collar from neck to waist. Lanvin, of Paris, sent this particular suit to us. One sees brown lace and chiffon in afternoon and evening frocks, brown tulle topped with tinsel where smart folks dance and dine. Some of the brown is snuff-colored; again it is like & dry and crackled leaf. It brings taupe in its wake. Smart women have begun to wear gathered capes of taupe georgette crepe held around the shoulders with narrow bands of otter. Almost Victorian, this fashion. Beige rivals white. Bfforts to oust it have been vain. It has run its course for two years. There’s no evidence of its failing to hold public attention. One new summer gown uses belge taffeta for a cuirass bod- ice, showing wide gathered to the edge of bodice near the normal waist- line. Over this beige lace runs a tiny design of tinsel. If anyone wonders why the word “tinsel” appears so frequently in the fashion stories of the hour, the answer is that the thing itself ap- pears so frequently in the gowns of the moment. The dressmakers use the kind of tinsel one uses on a Christmas tree. The display of it is nor crude enough to offend the eye. It is run in and out of fabrics that have & coarse mesh. It is used to border a straw hat, it is stitched on one fabric to be used as a border of another fabric. It edges wide medieval sleeves. It serves as a border to & neckline. It 1s more desirable than giit braid, for it 18 a trifle as light . It w an arrow shot into air in & capricious moment In Paris. It stuck. We like it. It will probadly run along with new garments next winter. Orna- mentation and patterned fabrics are definitely established, you know. It's the swing of the pendulum. * % ® * ‘T is eagler to decide on the pos- session of a lace gown than to|admirabl another material. This was the me- dieval manner. To be artistic, the bodice must run well down toward the hips with a faint wrinkling across the mormal watst Nne. (Cepyright, 1922.) HOME ECONOMICS. BY MRS. ELIZABETH KENT. Clean and wash a fresh haddock and boil or steam it until just teader. Do mnot cook it so long that it falls all to pleces. Serve it with white sauce. Fresh haddock may be stuffed with a dressing of bread crumbs mixed with a little melted butter or bacon fat and well seasoned with celery salt and marjoram or thyme. Then it should be shaped in a circle by tying the tail to the mouth. It should be covered with a brown sauce in a bul- tered baking dish and baked half an hour. Another good stuffing for baked haddock is mMashed potatoes well mixed with shredded omions which have been browned for five minutes in butter. If necessary add & little milk to bind the potatoes and onlons. Sliced carrots may be served as a border around bolled or baked had- dock and make a perfect course with the fish. Fiilets of hsddock, seasoned with salt and pepper, with a Jittle lemon julce squeezed over each and a pat of butter laid on, may be foldeda over and baked In & hot oven to make a very good fish course. Cooked haddock left over may be heated In a cream sauce and served on toast or circlets of fried bread. It Is very necessary to prepare lefi- over fish with care to make sure that small bones are removed. If you have facilities for grilling— that is, a hot fire over which you can grill or broil food directly—you will find grilled haddock very deliclous. Wipe the fish quite dry with a cloth, brush over both sides with melted butter and sprinkie well with salt and pepper. Then broil the fish, al- lowing about ten minutes for each side, in front of or over a bright fire. When the fish is done so that a fork plerces, the flesh readily, spread butter over it, garnish with parsiey and serve very hot. Fruit Tarts. Fruit tarts form one of the most of summer desserts, for look well in it. One must be an artist | they leave the fruit with much of its to deal with lace, even when it isifinest flavor. used in negligble quantity. An en- tire gown of it commands considera- tion. The French have worn colored lace frocks for a year. Americans have accepted them in haphasard manner. ‘They are offered for hot weather as one of the solutions of the struggle to be comfortable. They demand & good lining, they insist upon some sort of ornamentation. The French put brightly colgred flowers with a lace frock. When they add purple and pink morning- glories to beige lace, they make it Memu for a Day. BREAKFAST Stewed Prunes with Cream Scrambled Eggs Coffes Muffins LUNCHEON ~ 0] . Stewed Rhub‘crfl Radishes s ‘0co! DINNER Cream of Spinach Sou Baked Shad Cole Mashed Potatoes Cheese Rolls Strawberry Cake Coftes law And best for this pur~ Pose is the tart making use of un- cooked fruit. The tart shell is daked. A lower shell only, either in a big pie pan or in patty-cake or muffin tins, for in- dividual tarts. Then the fresh fruit is put in the shell, sprinkled with sugar and ped with whipped cream. That is all there 18 to 1, and the result is one _ of the most deliclous desserts im- aginable. There are, of course. many good cooked fruit tarts, and here are recipes for some of them: Raspberry and Apple Tarts.—Line a ple tin with pastry, haif filled with apple sauce. Fill with red raspber- ries, sprinkie with sugar, cover with crust, bake and serve cold. Berry Tarts.—Line mufin pans with good pastry and fill with berries, sweetening to taste. Bake and cover ‘with meringue. Brown the meringue. Apple and Currant Tarts.—Line pa! ty pans with pastry, spread with ap- ple sauce and fill with red currants °°~ heavily sweetened. Bake, remove from the oven, cover with meringue: and return to the ovem until brown. Cherries or other fruit may be used. in the same way. < X