Evening Star Newspaper, May 28, 1922, Page 67

« B . .f 'Choice of a Hundred Sleeves to Put Into Frocks, Capc Are Turned Into Sleevo ‘to’ Omamont a Severe Frock—Lace Used O&ener Than Fabric of the Frock-—The Butcher's Cuff That Reaches to’ the Elbow. Where It Flares, Is of Ornndu-—-Panch of Blsck Lace Are Placed -Across tlu Bukof a Gown and Caughtto the Arms standardized costume If the an-mnm B and shope would only let them alone. How Httle they know women! The truth is that women want varfety, but they do not always want it when it differs from what the rest of the world wears. The leaders are the bosses really. When they do not want & change in the fundamentals of clothes it is because they have their minds set on detalls, curious and extravagant BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE. VERY woman, be she ever so E dull, can catch at the bright shining things as they fall from the skies. There s not a single excuse but that of lasiness for & repe- tition of the short elbow sleeve, the 2quare Hindu sleeve, the kimono sleeve. 1f & woman indulges in theap she lacks knowledge of what has occurred or she is indifferent to the new movement. dee Wings But It Be[mu Upper Sleeve by a Broad Elastic Under a Rucllmi—chet -Fallmd From the Arm—The Full Sl'cn Is Introduced Intv Smlrt Du.y kal. ina Txght Shouldcr Pleco nnd Endl “TIGHT SLEEVE OF PRINTED CREPE REACHING FROM SHOULDER TO WRIST; A WIDE WING OF CHIFFON FALLS FROM IT, AND A GLOVE ; SLEEVE OF BLACK TAFFETA HELD AT TOP WITH ELASTIC BENEATH A {RUCHE, WHERE IT JOINS THE PUFFED SLEEVE OF THE FROCK. —————————————————————eeeeeteeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee’ CAPE ,AND SLEEVES IN ONE " The sleeve one seps’ the oftenest is full and long, beld jn tightly at the shoulder: and ‘wrist. One of the oddi- ties from France, .worn by smart Women, ip a fingeriess glove used in- stead of a cuffiat the'wrist. It is of the fabric lined with & bright color. France hus been *unco” fond of these gloves without fingers like old-fashioned mitts. There is an unceasing effort to has been difficult to tell the difference between the skin and the stocking for two years In Paris. * % % % ‘NYHEN the designers saw that women were determined to withstand the high prices for gloves, a condition which has been reflected in America in the evening. they created the sleeve with the mitten. They have not relinquished the effort of last summer. They repeat it this year. They also repeat the idea A SLBEVE THAT GROWS IN IM- PORTANCE. ITS FULLNESS IS CON- FINED -BY A TIGHT SHOULDER PIECE AND ENDS IN A FINGER- LESS GLOVE, LINED WITH BRIGHT *BLUE. IT OPENS AT THE SIDE. AT UPPER LEFT. o AT RIGHT, VARIATION BUTCHER'S CUFF, INTO FASHION IN FEBRUARY IN ¥RANCE. IT IS OF BLUE SERGE ‘WITH ORGANDIE CUFF. THE LINK BUTTONS ARE BLUE AND. THE CORD 18 RED. THE EXPOSES THE ARM, BEGINS IN A TIGHT SHOULDER PIECE. ‘THIS ONE IS OF BEIGE EMBROIDERED AND LINED WITH GREEN. LOWER LEFT. . SQUARE BEADED SLEEVE OPEN- ED AT SIDE WITH POINT FALLING "IN FRONT INSTEAD OF BACK. AT LOWER RIGHT. ——— | She may be the kind of individualist Who prefers her own manner of dressing 1410 any the currents of fashion bring in. Sometimes she has success. Sometimes sne |5 merely a good example of obsti- nacy. There is a story behind the extraor- dinary output of arm coverings. Theilr OF THE WHICH CAME PANEL SLEEVE, WHICH ' | things which use a simple lnd old- (uh- PIECE OF LACE ON AN EVENING GOWN. _THIS I _THE FAMOUS STYLE CREATED BY JENNY oF | PARIS, FOR THE AMERICAN, BUY- ERS; AND_IT HAS BEEN WIDELY COPIED IN THIS COUNTRY. that a sleeve, no matter how compli- cated, is beyond thelr ability to con- struct. They are never so satisfied as when they are using up 0dds and ends, combining colors, putting left-overs of galloon, lace or embroldery Into small places to give effect. Today they have thelr hearts’ desire. R 'I'l‘ 1s'not necessary fo be’conventional in sleeves. Nb celebrity ever lived ‘whose arm coverings ure not of im- portance. Even the august Doges of Venice give inspiration. The designers have led the way. The umateur find no stumbling block in her path. It matters not whether the arm fs covered or revealed, whether the fabric is full or narrow, whether it is plain or adorned. There is no limitation. Do what you Will There are capes for sleeves. This is one of the popular forms of departing from the conventional, Jenny of Paris, who gave us the Hindu sleeve and start- ed every woman to dropping her arm drapery into her soup, has started the 'butchér’s cuff and a cape sleeve on a mad career. Both will have the popu- larity of the Hindu sleeve. The cape sleeve is-a half-moon of BLUE AND WHITE FOULARD SLEEVE WITH CLINGING -CUFF I‘lP WHITE " GIORGI‘I"I'E. AND AN ORGAY! IDIE-CUFF SEPARATE FROM THE | ioned frock as a background for their TIGHT ELBOW ll.l“l. I‘l' J5 EMBROIDEREL TO NMATOCH PROCK. display. * %ok x gear: pofitical cfisis produced. new, gir- QUCH has been the condition in anct dles. for these post-war years. Onq could see slight ‘changes-in the contour-of clothes, except in the skirt, which went to the ankles, to the knees, then bick | mushroomis’ ovérnight. -~As* again. coverings. In jewelry, in shoes, in'stock- ings, in underwear, took the place- of drastic changes in gowns and fabrics, At the moment ot wrmng !he wnrld seems to® bé 'bent ‘on inlroduclnl a8 mahy new sldeves @5 there afé frocks in existérics. New"oiles’ appéar ‘lke soori "“as So curious developments I arm | fashion geta-a DIt I f3s mouth it runs away from the public. Ag the individual is'as prolific u a protessional in designing new arm' cove Now and then the weavers gained a |erings, thers-is po .limit.to what may point here and. thereby introducing new materials, but they had ight chance e’ déne. *‘Rather, what is ‘done.’ So ‘slight are thié actual chasiges in the fun- dimenitals of frocks, such as length of okirt, ase of fabrics, placement of waist line; - fullness on hips, arrangement of hem, that women and dressmakers: feel they can dizxmiss apxiety about the main things and. expend imagination and in- genuity on the accessories. .Which ex- plains. the orgy. of new sleeves. .Women should be reslly happy, over this turm of events. They never find cpen-meshed lace, merely ngs care- lessly laced together, which is wrapped tightly about the -arm from shoulder to wrist, then left to hang across the baok. ..The . balf-moon shaping. is re- vealed when the arms are stretched, as in dancing. ; _There is another version of this shape for i evening frock. The lace is black and there is slight ornamentation of jet at the sides. It is caught over the bare arms by wide bracelets of jet. It is Tnmm is another evening sleeve ‘which consists of two panels, richly embroidered and lined with the color of the embroldery, which begin at the one over the other like the flap of an envelope, then hang to the hips. They have little or nothing to' do with the frock. They are slightly caught to its arm-hole top, but that's all. covering to an evening gown which nieeds diversity. fabric or color*acheme of the frock. Any woman can make such an arm | gne will. & BLACK LACE SLEEVE IN CAPE suspended from the bare shoulders by |gmrpE, WITH JET BRACELETS HOLDING IT ACROSS THE ARMS, ———— e has drifted down to being the preference of the individualist. . A short sleeve is made long by the invention of dressmakers of an orma- top of the arm, where they are placed | menta) cuff that takes on several shapes. It'is quite fetching. The shape known as “butcher’s” is a long flaring plece of material, usually white, sometimes organdie, which is pulied up over the forearm to the elbow. It is managed as jometimes it wrinkles at the wrist and is finished with a Wall-of- Bhe meed not follow | Troy at top, and shows a glimpse of of varied sleeves f-r one frock and thc gauntiet of fur or silk slipped on to vary &he effect of a short sieeve, or to turn it into a long one for public places. One of the delightful oddities thrown out is a long sleeve that comes off like a glove. It Is of black taffeta with an elastic band under a ruche in the top. It is pulled up to meet the short sleeve and held in its place by the rubber. It reaches well over the hand, but there is no thumb in It as In the others varfety and number were not ac- cidental. They were anchors thrown to windward to keep the ships of of ousting crepes for frocks and flan- nels for suits. And the dyers despaired of ever changing women from black. o | the elbow between it and the lower edge of |, { Almost anything will do. That’s com- the gown sleeve. Not pretty, that : forting. Another reconstruction of an i gympes, for rare are the women who -fashion from drifting on the rocks of staleness. _It is felt that the creators of fashion the pubfic from being satisfled with what they possess. This carries out the ‘argument that the reformers put forth. ‘Women would be happy, fay they, in a Housekeeper Who “Has Ideas.” The other day I went to a simple | " to her housekeeper friends. I did not inow the majority of women present, ' ‘munity where I live. 3t ‘thesé women to know at once how .\ 10 nulono them in my mind. i ‘As’'I_swépt my eye over the room- “ful of faces I could easily pick out the interesting women—the women I really wanted to talk to—just by the ‘way other women were crowding around them. Interesting Woman No. 1 was talk- ing about & mew kind of apron she ‘wae making for herself. Interesting Woman No. 2 was tell- \hg four other women about a dessert recfbe she had originated. Interesting Woman No. '3 could “hardly “bresthe Decause’ her friends “were bésleging her with questions doncerning & new game she had in- troduced at & party. & ! Interesting Woman No. 4 was re- . | 1ating her successful experience in re- ! moving some sort of stain from & sum- mer dress. E And s 1 watched these popular ‘housekeepers and noted the few un- ‘popular ones who remained on “the are sometimes at their wits' end to keep | | [ for the tea was not given In the com- | this subject. But I did not |Intp’ my community, heed previcus acquaintance withmost | that came not 1ong ago. l | l Therefore novelties, costly ones, began to pour out over the world. The far- | oft countries were reached to suggést a |, history were |. handbag. Epochs . in studied to furnish an idea for jewelry. Chemistry was ¢alled into play to pro- duce new millinery effects. Revolutions were merely suggested for new head- Now, readér friends, every week: I PER$0NAL Cure for'Ivy Poisoning. “Speeking “from pcmnu upurl.nco I should ‘say’ that Taving a‘ gangrenous appendix removed is a pleasant pas- time a& compared with having the seven- Year 1téh 1HF" three day u:rra rather | Rave” & ‘complitation” ¥ the ami That ‘s’ mild attddk’of 1vy der- "TALItE"" The inaddenlng thing about last summer's ivy potsoning Is that the ‘dis- covery'éf thé qick cure for this catas- receive letters from séme of you ask- | trophe was announted only wheh “the other women." wofnen readers have written to me on that some women cannot strike & responsive chord?”. _afternoon tea given by a housekeeper | InE me “the secret of popularity with | last temper-destroyfrig gymtoris * were A great many ‘of my | dtsappearing. Al Dr. Albert Strickier reports In the “I can’t seem to *break { Journal of the American Medichl’ Asso- said a letter |clation that. injections of minute doses “Why 1is it |of the toxin of poisénivy"into the mus- aturaily, draw | cles cther women to them—while olhm at & person suffering’ with a severs of ivy dermatitis brifgs pellef to the sufferer within a*few houts and cure My personal answers to such letters | within two' of tiiree > days.” This- 18]} always contain this question: “wnulmnnnly & gratitying “discovery, for have you to offer other women? New ideas? Have you tried to make your- self interesting. to them?" All the unpopular woman nudl dn to “break.in,” is to become a- “live wire” in her community.. Try-to ex- cel in some one thing—whether it be knit{ing, originating new games or creating new dishes. - You will soon: find that your neighbors will want you to help them with that naw kalt- ting stiteh, or want your-advice in planning their next party or want you to give them your best guest-dinner recipes! When you have -something to offer them, they will flock'te you fast ‘enough! That'is human nature. And then, too, did you ever stop to think how much mors attractive ‘woman looks when she is interssted in. something—how. fust her.hright: ness of facial expression draws other women to hert A cheertul face or,a face lit with enhusissm is In itself under: ordinary treatment: suck an ‘attack ‘generally lasts ‘some weeks ang there ‘is a ‘pronounced tendency [toward relapse, and few wyfferers oscape without ' some secondary’ in-§..~ fection from scratching or careless handling. In some cases. of - 1ivy poisoning the. ‘victims make'a fatrly prompt and complete recovery under|: ordindry treatmient and then' qevelo; some. obstinate. ski: persists ‘for months and hp-.of ame. qe ,both By Wlllum Brady, M D Noted . Physician - and - Author. , frouble, whhl tion - patients. &8 -to whether * they have been -tnlu tow-l-m m;:: pois qum-s, nt}u\h,upfl 1o uee | v m daily for three or four days. Usually two tnjections are ail thdt is néeded. [“The -itching s ‘relieved: within twenty-four hours after-the first:in- Jection. - 3 Thge Saeg o Dosan't t und ‘f you've hiid'it. At thé timé S port Stéickler had trguted tharty’ sut- loron with this methed, ‘Withous focal 'applidations or ‘éther m.unent. and with a quick cure in every instance. ‘The toxin Is prepared by the phar- maclst, chemist or lnoruory expert by extracting the fresh leaves of the poison ivy or of poison sumac with sbsolute alcohol, filtering and pre- cipitating. The précipitate is dried @nd extracted in Soxhlet extractors for ten hours The &xtract is dried at Jow_ temperature. ‘The unp is carstully weighed and “dissolvéd in e aloohol, to Which & certain amount of, distilled wates Just byen nurmloq is u_ the toxin non-irritating. ing ‘suscéptible petsots poisoning. D schnnuri‘témul- W«mwmnfl.n‘ parts. , | drops -lurmnn-r. &ng lnmnh:tvn drops l& ‘evary. - i}l efghtesn old frock is made possible by the new trick. of opening a short sleeve down the back, catching It together with a buckle or rosette and tying it with long colbred ribbons that hang to the knees, One must not indulge in startling rib- bons. Be reserved. There are several oddities in long sleeves, but one striking fact brought out by the new fashions is the demand Yor: wrist-length arm coverings for the day hours. The short sledve'ls some- times worn in.the ‘afternoon, “but its It's 80 easy to keep young! Don't despise, or pretend to despise, the woman who spends a llttle time each day in improving | Preserving one's b-u\y and youth uum-n.nxu-umnt else in morg important .than many n mn wastes hours and h.fl over ‘each week. A WO .;-upgpwmwhnunu:nfl and tired, and be & good ope. I'm oer- gelf. _If she is young and pretty she munnuhvwlnmt\mhn that much .more_essily. - . have his wife stay young and attractive and be & poor oook, of ETOW old early, and tired, and be s §00d one. I'm cer- m”-::vw ‘:.I:-:!::fi prestige and movelty have passed. It BEAUTY CHATS have smooth white elbows. ' There is a reversal of it in an organdie cuff which flares at the hand and is caught to the tight upper sleeve. This one opens all 1ts length and ie weighted with dangling link buttons held by red cords. I S'nu. another reconstructed sleeve has the tight top part made long by a Wide sling of Georgette crepe ‘held snugly to the arm by buttons, then allowed to swing well below, the arm ling swings from the rfiecks BY EDNA KENT FORBES. in cases where there isn‘t a great deal of money, where extravagance in one direction meéans extra economy in an- other. The woman who is really clever gets & gre&t deal for & small expendi- ture. In the matter of beauty, at least —exercises cost nothing but a few min- uates’ time, and keep her young—the few essential cosmétics can be’afforded by every ome. Time spent on beauty ouiture 18 never time wasted. * | «Constant Reader.—There is nothing tb turn the hair gray that would not injure the hair itself. ‘W, K. C—Buttermilk is not fatten- ing and it is an qxcellent food. It will also correct an acid stomach and stim- wiant s sluggish liver. B. A. B—Even though MP eyes are mp— o o —— 1" S - | ———re | Sttt e 2, BROWN Clm mox 'I'l'. OPI" SLEEVE, POINTED AT BACK AND TIED WITH NZE RIBBON. persuade the public to accept ‘the idea. It began in the wer-time economy of hand and leg coverings which were out- aide the possibilities of the average purse. Bare hands and legs were the result. The former is accepted, by all circles-of society, the latter among those who care little for conservative opinlon. ‘The gloveless condition still prevails. ©ne is quite accustomed to the sight of thousands of Frencewomen in the Therefore. it commends itself to the conservative. Sometimes the dressmakers do listen to complaints. When women grew peevish about the inconvenience of the immensely wide sleeve that came Into contact with every undesirable object there was a reform. The edge of the square was first tightly wrapped about the arm down Its whole length, then left to its own devices. streets carrying a pair of ‘long gloves {(Copyright,.1022.) in the hand, but never wearing tliem. ¢ The “nude” stocking was the_result of s the bure-legged 'fashion. Franoe in-| pyyperh Snow and Blane Mange. variably turns an idea to'good advan- tage, no matter what its- source. It Make a sirup of one-fourth pint of water and half that measure of sugar. When boiling fast add one pound of thinly sliced Thubarb and cook for thirty minutes, then' strain into-s clean kettla. Let the juice’ come:-to a boil, add three roundirg tablespoonfuls of corn’ starch rubbed smooth in one-half a pint of orange juice strained, and stir until quite smooth, when quickly add a ssc- ond haif pint of juice, either orange or rhubarb, ‘one-fourth teaspoonful of sait and set back covered for two minutes For plain blane mange pour. it now imto a wet mold-und sét asidé to harden. For the snow variety, 'hlp--nm very stift the whites of two -or-three eggs. and monnudrunmm e Ay When lightly fized, pour into molds. -Berve with rhubasd or orange BauoR. .