Evening Star Newspaper, May 21, 1922, Page 69

& 5" HATEVER Their Size.” Says Anne thtenl:ouu. “They Muat AllBe Pulled Down Over the Eyebrows—English Garden Party Hats Offset the Ori- ental Turbans—The Noticeable Russian Influence in Millinery—Kind of Headgear Worn by Followérs of Peter the Great—Popularity of the Open-mesh Straw, and Some Facts About the Plain Every-Day Hat. RED AND WHITE LEATHER HAT IN BRETON SAILOR SHAPE. THE BRIM'S EDGE IS §CALLOPED, AND THERE ARE TWO RIBEON ENDS AT BACK. THE FROCK IS RED AND WHITE CHECKED SILK. women., however, If they are often carel of their own chance to im- prove the appearance. They eontinue to make turbans, it'a true, but these shapes are not what the mind con- Jjures by the word. They reflect the oriental spirit. Their source is the “Arablan Nighta” All Baba wore g} BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE. & ERILY, no hat is too large for the head. The woman Who bravely ventures forth in an "~ oblong turban or ene in the style the Queen of England adopts needs all her bravery for the act. She is looked at with the kind of asten- ishment ‘the world still gives to|one. So did Haroun-al-Raschid. They wrinkled white Russian boots on the|are important. They are used as com- street in the middle of the day. plete coverings for the h although our women defeat this by showing & plentiful array of hair at the tem- ples, be the hat what it will. All tyrbans, however, do not carry the Arablan roll of fabrio which smashed into occidental fashlon & year ago. But there are several imi- tationa of it that cause one to pau: Will they go with the non-exotic Ameriean face? We have & sufficlent foreign population to permit of much that belongs to any of the older civilizations of the planet, yet the ruling face is Anglo-Saxon, and it is not always plastic to oriental in- fluence. We have had severs expe- rience with the idea in the last two years. There are many who are weary of it. We are to have much [more in the next six months from a Slavic source which is first cousin to the orient, and is strikingly akin to what we have been trying to amal- gamate with our local styles. * % ok I'l' is strange, therefore, that along with the undoubted Russian in- fluence in all forms ‘of dress this spring there should come sailing over the horizon the type of hat which we assoclate with strawberries, and such Gargantuan strawberries. Why this connection? Because the islands of Great Britain seem to sprout both Would that the alleged instinct of women would urge the majority of those who wear small turbans, in spite of the fact that they are run- ning against the current of fashion, to tilt them over the evebrows. That's the least they can do in the name of style Lady Astor set a bad example With her famous three-cornered hat by mushing it back from her brows, showing an expanse of bare forehead which is a severe trial for any face. Not even. youth, unwrinkled because unthinking. can carry off this angle of of the headgear with entire satisfac- tien Yo the beholder. If.the middle-aged will wear thelr small hats off the forehead, giving emphasis to lines and revealing the age of the eyes—and no woman wil- lingly and with direct intention dees this thing—at least, let them soften the bare skin with tendrils or waves of hair. . * ¥ ¥ k [HE bare forehead in the evening is all very well, but the art or neeessity that invented hats for hu- mans did not intend that we should distress observers by planting hard fabric or ungracious straw against the texture of the skin. It Is not a question of coming and going fash- AT LEFT: LARGE SHAPE OF BROWN CREPE DE CHINE TRIMMED WITH NARROW GOLD LACE, WHIOR APPEARS A§ A FRILL AT BRIM EDGE AND WHEELS AROUND THE BROAD, HIGH CROWN, TOP CENTER: MORNING HAT OF COARSE BEIGE STRAW, THE CROWN WIDE AND ROUNDED AT TOP; THE BRIM WIDE AND TURNING OVER ON ITSELF. THE RIBEON SCARF AND BOW ARE OF BROWN TAFFETA. THE BOW RUNS ACROSS THE BACK AND EXTENDS FAR ON THE SIDE. AT RIGHT: BEEHIVE TURBAN OF RED STRAW, WITH A HEAD BAND OF THICKLY FLUTED RIBBON IN THE SAME SHADE OF RED. THIS DEEP, THICK EFFECT AROUND THE EDGE OF THE HAT IS IN KEEPING WITH THE FASHION FOR THE PARISIAN ROLL OF THE WINTER. such hats were sold In the wholemale centers for next to nothing and were worn by hundreds who looked mnext to Dpothing. .The milliner meets this argument with & superior. smile, a kind of mystery smile as of one who {s about to open & Jack-in-the-box to a child. She shows the new Russian hat by Susanne Tal- bot of Paris, who has given hats to the obacure corners of all the Gopher Prai- straw, and trims it with groups .of yellow buttercups, she is bound-to appear like a nineteenth century gar- den party girl. In those days, how- ever, they wore a fringe or & water wave of hair to show betweer the hat and eyes. Today it is different. The hat is worn to conceal the eye- brow: - There is another type of immense hat which is not Victorian. It is of black whe may ‘have served under Peter the | for & shopping tour of Main. street Great. Its slight brim is rolled up, its|at 11 a.m. on & hot day. high loose crown has no stiffening, and y PO fta narrowed top is turned over and toward the front, like an envelope flap. AHONG the orgy of exotic hats for The embroidery on this hat fs not so pring there remains & bit of old Breton headgear. It Is sprightly and strident, not so Baskt-ballet, as on the other shapes. It is & bit delicate when | colorful without looking theatrical. Caroline Reboux of the Rue de la one conslders its Slavic source, there- fore not quite true to type. Its brim is | PAIX, in Paris, was the first to insist upon the sallor hats that were com- faced with red. By the way, there is the presence of danger in these hats, for|mon on the rocky coast of old France. fon; it is & question of softening the|the fruit and the immense sunshade |Straw Wwith a crown as large as a tur- ' ries.on this continent. Not that the ¢ face, treating it with sweet consid-|hat. We feel as though we were Lanvin kept up the fashion. Today eration. going to play tennis with the youns there are enlarged versions of these saucerlike hats, saucy things such as children once wore, the brims rounlly upturned, the crowns wide and somewhat high. Thers is a new one of red and white leather which s built in a spirit of eympathy with the desire for those two colors wherever fash- ionable folk gather. The brim, faced with red, is broadly scalloped at the upper edge and the two Breton rib- bon ends float from the back. No hat worthy of the Brittany influence omits th two pennants that flew from the masts of asturdy wooden fishing boats. Russia, Poland, Brittany, Italy are represented in the new hats, also Arsbia and Persia hold a fragment of millinery in their grasp. The orien- tal roll that Lanvin astarted -as a girdle last August, which was un- cannily suggestive of a colorful snake wound about the hips went upward in ita career to the neck and the hat brim. Indians always wore it as & finish to the immense turban ‘wound about the head and caught with & jewel—so dld George Arliss when Roshansra, the Indian dancer, made it for him in “The Green God- dess.’ The eager desire for It has sub- sided, but it trails glory behind it in departing. Ita succeasor “is-not so orlental, but its source !s unmia- takable. It is a fanciful roll about the brim of a wide-crowned turban, sometimes. in the shape of a beehive. Ribbon supplies it also metal lace and somet!, fabric. A red straw beehive turban has no other brim but & thickly fluted edge of red ridb- bon shells. Do you remember how the colored servants of other days and ways fluted the white tabl Trere are women who do not even pull some hair down about the ears. They. viciously stick the hard head cavering down on the head, ignoring the fact that hair is given to help us look more alluringly human, The milliners are being kind to curate when we put on one of them. A few of the new ones, launched with the first signs of warm weather, bear a curious cousinship to the head- gear of Trollope's heroines, married and single. If a young lady wears a parasol effect on her head of yellow Fashion World Turns to Ancients BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE. A, frock adorned with pearl em- broidery Is as old as time. All the gay and wealthy ladles of vari- ous nations that preceded ours de- sired such costumery and wore It Again it comes into fashion, This the French designers have done. Museums and history have taken the place of impulse and human leader- ship. Circumstances compelled it. Queens desired pearl embroidery. Just observe their costumes in the old colored cuts. Peasants desired it when a gala occasion brought out their money. The Magyars and the Slavs started with the pearl, then went on to embroidery of precious stones, especlally of gayly ulmd ones. The hereditary ceremonial m ol the anclent Magyars are thickly studded with turquolse, at lesst they were. Such glorious bits of inkerit- ance have vanished, prodably, from the earth as they have in Russis, as it seems to be the propensity of all revolutions, except the American on to destroy whatever vepresented the Righer cladses. Beauty's sake has no place in the Kuropean revolutionist's mind, not even in the French who are supposed to revere besuty for its meérit. s That the world of fashion has put both arms around embroidery . of | sreat mystery, takes the luster from the other, The stronger wins. The attempt to revive interest in open mesh atraw for every-day hats hap succeeded. Buch material is en- tirely suitable to .our climate. It should remain in perpetual fashion s linen does in the tropics. ' The pheasant feather comes back into the limelight of fashion. As brown in its light tones keeps push- ing forward from the r to the front, the milliners belfeve with rea- son that this large movement will create a demand for the one natural feather which combines the brown and beige shades desired. and braided du!n- BEAUTY. CHATS : l -Brimmed Hats are reappearing forerumners, un- doubtedly, of the incoming popularity of light brown frocks and. wraps. The cireless hat.of thin felt, with its flatly upturned fromt brim and & soft crown band of ribbon, continues to be worn. Crepe de chine has not a sufficlent following to be important. Straight and severe sallor hats of shining coarse straw, left over from last summer, reappear. Flappers put rainbow crown bands op them. Others wear them with only & narrow crown band and pump bow of self-covered grosgrain ribbon. Satin belongs to a day that Is done. It will sleep until winter, probabl BY EDNA KENT FORBES. Mystery of the Manicure. To some women the process of ac- Quiring perfectly manicured nallais a No matter how care- fully they try, they cannot bring their own finger tips to that state of pink parfection which s true of the woman with a good mald, or even of the woman who can take the time and money to have her nails “done” once or twice 3 week. Yet the mystery of nice-looking nalls is very simple to solve. They must be treated gently and not over- manicured. 1 think that is the fault of the inexpert woman—she is s0 afraid she isn't doing enough to her nalls that she overdoes them. The nails must be filed to a pointed oval shape first, using & long, flexible, steel file. Then the finger tips must be soaked for a few minutes in & bowl of warm, soapy water, preferably contalning & little lemon to bleach off stains. Then the nalls are cleaned and smoothed at the ends with emery board and gone over with a pair of good manicure acissors so all the Sagged, loose bits of skin are cut off, Cream is rubbed In then and the cuticle pushed back with an orange- wood stick. This leaves them ready for the first polishing with polishing powder. When this is washed off a final polish is given with' the palm of The “mystery” lies only in shaping the nails nicely with the file and in making the cuticle smooth around the edges. Cream rubbed into them keeps the cuticle from drying too much as a result of the soaking and of the drying polishing powder. Tooth—It is possible, but unusual, for a child of fourteen to cut a wis- dom tooth. C. 8—The “pilocarpine hair tonic” should be filled exactly as the formula reads, since each ingredient in it is needed to perfect the compound. Tt is a foolish custom to present your photograph unless you know posi- tively it is wanted. The fact of the people being relatives makes no dif- ference. Mrs, Mike F.—If you send me & stamped, addressed envelope, I shall be glad to mail you a formula for your hair. Catherine G.—Drinking plenty of water is only one of many things you should do to clear the skin of pimples. Keep the digestive system in order and the pores of the body open through a daily bath. L. E. B—Massaging the scar with olive oil would not affect it beyond softening the skin. The pain may have been caused by the way you handled it. Springerle Cookies. “As eggs are now lower in price,” write of my reader friends, “will you please publish, soon, more of those recipes for Springerle cook- fes which you mentioned recently?” I am glad to comply with this request: Here is my recipe for : One pound powdered su- gar and four eggs, beaten together for fifteeen minuts then add grated rind of oge lemon snd one pound of flour, sifted. Roll on board one-eighth inch thick, cut in squares, lay on a cloth overnight (or twelve hours) and in the morning bake in a moderate oven till the color of a soda cracker. If liked, & teaspoon of anise added to the dough makes them very tasty and is generally used by the bakeries. There are forms made of wood that .come for these cakes, but I have been unable to buy them. Mrs. F. H W.: Springeli; Four large eggs, one pound flour, sifted three times; one pound powdered su- gar, sifted three times, butter size of & walnut, scant half teaspoon of soda. Beat eggs at least five minutes before adding the sugar, gradually. When all is smooth add melted butter and soda which has been dissolved in a very little water, then add flour (a little at a time) and roll out about one-third inch thick. Press the molds on and cut. Put anise seed in pans befoye putting in the cookies, so seeds will stick to the bottom. Let stand vernight in cool place, and bake 1 | The Fourteenth Movement. At the last grand free distribution of the keep well exercises which I ignate as the Brady vefitable army wrote in 1 wonder how ny of on the old metabolism? A consider- able number of those who wanted coples asked for the “revi ' sym- prony. The revised score hasn't been published. I have merely added two new movements, No. 13, which I de- .scribed in the last talk on the sub- Ject, and No. 14, which I shall de- scribe now. ber of copies of the better metabol- ism symphony on band, and & copy [ PERSONAL HEALTH By William Brady, M. D. in the morning in a moderate oven. ‘The secret of good springelis is to beat and then beat some more. Mrs. H.: Springerlies: One pound sugar and four eggs. beaten together light and thick; add one pound of flour with which one teaspoon of bak- ing powder has been sifted and roll into little balls; press with a small glass plate or salt cellar, Let stand until morning and bake in a quick even. Or well and cut out with any of the cookie cuiters, or print with ‘wooden forme. Mrs. B. G.: Springles: Beat five eggs and one pound of confectioners’ sugar one way for an hour (stirring either to right or to left—not both ways). Then slowly mix in one pound of sifted flour to which you have pre- viously added one-half teaspoon of salt. Roll out about one-half inch thick and take the wooden forms that come made specially for this kind of cake, or else take flowered glasses or any ornament (stars, flower forms, etc.) and press these on the rolled- out dough, then cut the dough into small squares. Sprinkle anise seed on the small squares or else in the buttered tins fn which you Intend to bake the little cakes. Let the dough dry for one day and one night in a warm room, then bake in not too hot an oven for about fifteen or twenty minutes. These are hard at first after baking, but grow softer the longer they are kept. If put in wax paper in a tin box tightly covered they will keep even for a year. SERVICE able mat, forward, and, if you are still young, backward. The perform- ance should be concluded by a stmi- lar rolling. I believe the somer- saults take out any kinks or creaks one may develop from the exercise, particularly a beginner. A padded mat or cushion two feet wide and six feet long is ideal for somersaulting Somewhere in Iowa, though I can’t re- call where, such a cushion fs made for this very purpose. A few pil- lows or a few rugs may be used as a cushion. Of course, when one has rolled his first thousand somersauits There are still a num- { he requires no cushion, just the floor. An artistic rendition of the Tom- e revised symphony requires »l will be mailed to any reader who |somewhat less than twenty minutes. cloth in cross lines when there was. to be some one special for dinner? ‘Well, that's the way much of this, new ornamentation looks. e atones and crystals is true. It is in. tricate work, this new adornment, and no one has the time to give to 1t as the workers of other centuries &ave. They worked then for time needs ‘to be coaxed to indulge In & |I again urge upon the sedentary man reagonsble amount -of-exereise #Very | or viommn the value of an air bath morning or evibaing, - provided a | while phyinx the l\'ll\nhony—th-t is, stamped _addressed -envelope- 1s in-[I am sure more benefit is derived clogsd with the request:and no other|from these exercises if one takes M-un_ma;.mwnv—- inust ‘avold who have florid skins or fined faces, The pointed tiara crown Is not the only kind we copy now. Russia has many varieties of drapery. The top of a Greek key is used as the front to a hat, also as & cap for & bridal vell. The veil is arranged at the Back. On several of the new hats for summer there is an evidence of this study of an- clent Slayic headdress by the milliners. _ When one gets into the realm of headdresses there is ‘so much that is available fn the history of Ruspla that one is tempted to forsake the 1dea of imitation after going through tomes of {llustrations. Caution iz s cry when any of these {mitations of Hlavic finery are adopted. Lovely and eternity. Now they work for the day. Sufficient to the hour is the work thereof, for what we do today is quite strong encugh to last for the short season ‘it remains in power. ‘The more fastidious women prefer the simple pearl embroidery to the ornate-colored “variety. The® frock sketched today shows a new kind of gown for a~wedding reception on.a warm afternoon. It is in high fash- fon, so It is important. The fadbric is white chiffon, the fabric which is taking the place of géorgette and crepe de chine. The ornamentation 1p of pearls, large and small, the for- er &t the hem of the wide, gsthered akirt, the Iatter about th “wide, nor- mal weistline. Of course, thers are tassels. There slways were in me- dieval times. And we have ('All‘l upon the fifteenth century.’ The sweeping hat s black. ' '!Int gives 'the' necessary shadow which all frocks and women need. Just s bit of qumm‘ of ugu to nko oft AFTERNOON. HAT. IN UNUSUAL DIMENSIONS OF YELLOW STRAW. WITE GROUPS OF YELLOW BUT- TEROUPS AT EACR. SIDE OF THE XTRA WIDE CROWN. - fragile face and to buy it recklessly. tidious ‘Suganne knew 1t -But neither hats. mmuvoon GOWN OF WHITE MOUSSELINE WITH PLAIN “ "BODICE AND FULL SKIRT. MANNER. THE SUNSHADB HAT * I8 OF BEACK HORSEHAIR WITH " OSTRICH FLUES. through what sourcs 1o one knows. It is merely a revival,‘one of the . ancient things that have been mod- mb-d. 4n- & post-war period. In stage under the colored lights, but often debatable on.the head of the average woman going about her daily business. . The trouble of & young and Ol!'l oan pralse it indiscriminately. It is apt to rest heavily on & unpleasantly to the strength of & large face. Don't It appears on many of t.hl <cheap copies of Fiench One of the new notes struck in the millinery ‘experiments is the use of fine gold lace on black straw, dark crepe de chine or trafsparent horse- Dr. Brady, care of this newspaper. The fourteenth mévement is taken in the same posture as that of No. 12, that is, supine, with the hands on the floor, beside the hips. Without lft- ing head or shoulders from the floor, breathe in and at the same time lift both legs up to-the stop there; keep the legs moving straight over and flex" at hips and knees as tightly as you can, 80 that the thighs press down upon the belly, then immediately straighten the legs the starting’ position. sion, though it ten times without und tomed. ' on.a& suit- The uuuh- of the lymonv should be begun by roliing about]thres pounds shy—are you cast for subject is discussed An the- letter to |them without clothing and in a room ‘with ‘Wwide-open windows admitting* the coolest alr the season or clihate affords. Far be it from me to intimate tha my particular group ‘of exercises is superior to other varied setting-up exercises. The ohes I have included in the symphony are merely designed wertical, but do not | 10 8Uit the néeds of the greatest number of sedentary men and women. _ QUESTIONS. AND ANSWERS, Six Rolls Moraing and Night. Iam a middle aged woman troubled with comstipation. 'Will you kindly tell me a harmiess mild laxative Men should repest this movement | Which I may take every day?—{(Mrs. from three to twenty times each ses- | T- E. W.) requires several weeks' practice to do it more than |eVery mornlnt and evenlnt fatigue or lameness. Women should repest the | Please send me the Karell system movement (m- three to ten times|for reducing. eéach session, ‘as they become accus-|iall, weight 146 youpd-, age thirty- Answer.—Take six womérssults w«-u-q--u!u. I am gixty-siy inches nine years—(James D..M.). Answer.—You are’plready two'or queen of the May?