Evening Star Newspaper, October 2, 1921, Page 55

BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE. OW we know what we should wear, whether or not we choose to do it. So here is T a synopsis of the leading houses which even the remotest American should contemplate’ with interest, for these things will soon be ‘brought to her doors. All that France does America gets. There were enough huyers of clothes over here during the time of the collections to guar- antee that none in our country should cradle any belief that old clothes were ‘Zood enough or that new ideas were dormant until next spring. The names of those who lay down fashions over here may be as sound- ing brass to thousands of Americans, but that does not signify that the products of their imaginations will fail to influence even those thousands. Callot exploits three silhouettes— the Egyptian, almost touching on savagery: the Japanese, with the slim kimono built of sSoft woolens, not crepes, embroidered with beasts and birds in dull Japanese colors, and the second empire, with a touch of Goya- Spanish. In the first two the hips are flattened by the material and the wide sash is drawn around the end of the spine, its ends disappearing at the side of front or hanging down as drapery, but not tied. The Egyptian thes have tight underskirts with se lotus leaf panels, richly embroid- ered, often in white against black. * k% ¥ HE skirts in the empire frocks have hoops inserted at the knees, not hips, and the hem is graceful through scallops that fall loosely to the floor, or through the material be- ing looped up in somewhat the fash- ion of the Algerian skirts. Both these movements prevent that hard line * xbout the feet which the old gowns of that sort possessed. Lace panta- lettes are also used to soften the effect. The bodices are very decolette and tightly drawn about ‘the figure, ac- centuating the slightly higher waist itne. These skitrs are not flat in back and front: they are evenly gathered all around the edge of the tiny bodice. Sleeves are large. Japanese fashion, sguare _things that cover the hands. or medieval Italian that hang to the floor, with the hand coming through at the waist line. The special sleeve of the house is one attached to a wide jeweled bracelet placed just above the albow; it is finely pleated and hangs to the finger tips and is built of transparent_fabric. Another novelty is the lavish usage of landscape ma- terials, in woolens as in brocade. the Kind of pattern that the American refuses. Some of it is printed, some ambroidered and both designs add tremendously to the price of the frock. At Lanvin's this season there is the usual manipulation of fabrics for the young girl who is going to parties or who must be well turned out for the street in things that are neither too sophisticated or too rem- iniscent of the nursery. And for such as these she has arranged sec- ond empire gowns in a juvenile way and argues by her varied presentation of them that youth is to be modeled after the Empress Eugenie. She has chosen for her mannequin a demure young piece of witchery who could not by any modern reasoning be ex- pected to behave the way she looks: if she did she would be two hundred vears behind the times. But she makes an enchanting Jane Austen heroine, only needing a bottle of smelling salts instead of a bouquet to_gain perfection. The second empire frocks of the house of Lanvin are actualy reminis- cent of our family ancestors, for the skirts with their hoops at the knees are built of flounces of silk net cover- ed with tiny flowers, like edelweiss, arranged in pale coral ribbon. The tailored suits for adults have hip length coats, loosely swung from the shoulders and tightly girded at the lowest line of the hips with wide, dark fur which has pendent loops of the peltry hanging across the front or back.” They refuse to continue across the sides, and if they are in front, they don’t appear in back. The sleeves are square, as all others are. Here and there they are fastend up the outer edge with large metal but- tons, the bare arm glimpsed between. * * % J_ANVIN sponsors velvet more than the other houses, which use wool- en for suits and simple frocks. Like I'atou, she draws on Italy of the doges for inspiration. The names and the colors would prove that point. She uses the padded roll of metal em- broidery or one of velvet acros: front of the skirt, hanging from the low walst line, reaching tupward at the hi How the average stout American matron would look in this gay horse’s collar swung below the belt in front gs easily imagined and then dismis: Pray that it will never come to pass. The skirts sweep the feet in all clothes but the tailored suits, the skirts of which are about ten inches from the floor. Hats are not to be omitted. Lanvin never omits a detail so important. She does not let another choose the hats for each of her gowns. She is 00 serious an artist. This season she advocates the Russian peasant headdress with flatly upturned brim covered with small enail shells, tightly curled. ‘When one does not desire to be 0 ornamental there are plain black satin and gray felt hats, some of them with tiny silver tassels along the outstanding edges at each side. The idea of shells is enchanting, al- though one hopes that only youth will adopt them, for they harden the face, but the sequins of mother-of-pearl which imitate the inside of a seashell are lovely with any skin and these she uses on evening turbans, on satin ment plan. CARROLL-ERWIN CO. Incerperated 707 12th St. NW. | i Home Electrical Appliances MAIH TIST. | MAZDA @elivered to your home. “Skirts and Sleeves Longer, Belts Lower, HAT the American Buyers of Fashions Have Found in the French Capital. Pantalettes and Kimonos Designed by Callot Lanvin Accentuates the Hoop Skirt—Second Empire Frocks—The Russian Blouse and the Latest Sleeve Fashions. l 1 13 ” Comes Word From Paris home of the. Underwoods possesses @ rather poignant interest for Washi-| ingtonians, in that it is the nesidence purchased by Maj. Archibaid Butt, lust prior to his fatal trip.abroad, return- ing from which he was one of nml Gentlewoman's League Makes Announcement ‘The occupation of the old Davidge House, 1624 H street, by the Gentle- woman's League is of interest to society at large, because seventeen years ago this splendid civic welfare organisstion came into existence. It is a benevolent business conducted In the Public Eye Mrs. Oscar Underwood. victims of the Titanic. Mrs. Underwood has somewhat remodeled the interior toned der | and has_extended the old-fash! garden, The mansion is in the « part of Washington, inG street near Z0th, and it will no ddubt be a de- lightful rendezvous for the more serfious minded of those attending the conference. » | The Japancse and the Dutch have| one peculiar .custom in contmon— | BY MARGARET B. DOWNING. When Mrs. Underwood came to Washington almost twenty years ago, | been chopped fine, This is'a goad ¥ay to use the left= overs of fried er cold. boiled ham. Run one cup of cold ham throug’ the grinder, add to it one cup of cream sauce, made by melting one tablespoon of butter and stirring into it one tablespoon of flour until thick. Add to the ham and cream sauce three hard boil g8 which have nd one-half cup of bread crumbs. Put in a buttered dish and bake until brown. ———— Fine hemstitching and drawn work and hand-run tucks on the shecre: f white muslin underwear as change from the masses of | crepe. S == == = i she complained that every one here was always in a hurry and that strug- gle as she would, the day was not long enough to accomplish those things which so appealed. But the wife of the senior senator from Ala- bama has seen social matters emerge from chaos into a well defined pro- gram suited to one’s time und strength | and she has adjusted herself com- fortably into the routine. Mrs. Under- wood survived the cxperience of be- ing the wife of & highly important and popular member of Congress, and when her husband wag promoted to the Senate, she was ready to carry these larger social responsibilities without unuual effort. She will take up the additional burden which willl devolve on her through her hus- HATS 10 order any size or style. 508 11th Our Work is Our Reputation by, Old Velvet and Plush Re-Covered on the New Style Frames Bring in your last season’s hat and let us re-cover it from our of new style frames—you will save siderable OLD BEAVERS, FELT AND VELOUR We carry the largest assortment of Hat Frames—frames made Complete line of velvets, duvetyn and feather trimmings. LADIES’ CAPITAL HAT SHOP HATS wide ortment con- REBLOCKED IN THE NEW FALL STYLES St. N.W. Main 8322 il vatuable Servioe EREE = MRS. 0SCAR W. UNDERWOOD. band’s appointment as a delegate to the disarmament conference with the same grace and ease. “But” said Mrs. Underwood recently, “while 1 enjoy Washington and find each winter seemingly more profitable and convincing than the last, I am really a devotee of music, and I can look back on a period in which I was devoured by a passion to appear on the operatic stage. I studied voice cul ture for years interruptedly in thi country and in Parls, and it was hard to convince me that life could hold anything at all adequate to realizing my ambition. I have found that it can, and though 1 may sometimes get a little sentimental over the dreams of my youth, I am glad that I found an outlet in music which stands me in good stead now. I am happy that Washington is beginning to take a more serious interest in good music. It will be a supreme satisfaction t. many and a trength for their souls.” Mrs. Underwood is a native of the prosperous city of Birmingham, and was before her marriage Miss Bertha ‘Woodward, daughter of one of the most influential manufacturers of the section. She was a power in the social world, when she became the second wife of the then member of Congress from Birmingham. From her youth, she had taken a serious view of her fa-| ther's wealth and influence and she was noted for her well directed efforts toward the mill hands, especially in regard to providing them with recrea- tion and amusement. { Mra. Underwood is vivacious and | accomplished in the social sense. She | will fit neatly into whatever role is assigned her in the momentous pro. gram being formulated for the dis- . tinguished aliens who will be in! after November. l pens ~Xelr lemo Self-Reducing No. w-. e i L A MHto3............85.00. LA In justice to her attractive ARA heavily embroidered in blue and gold that catches the attention, and upon it 18 the girdle of the fabrio, ar- ranged in an outstanding bow over for the benefit of gentlewomen who must supplement small incomes by the work of their hands—to assist and | hington, = RSETS and (Omplete (Orrect (Orseting NEMO CORSETS are made in 46 styles for all types of CIRCLETS aremadein 12 styles forallfigures_$1.50t0$5.00 can afford to overlook this lete and Be fitted by a corset hygienist in any good store NTEE OVER ALL ISED BY THE (ARCLETS CI Do e o e the corset does below. $3.00 to $13.50 ce and health no woman Corset Service. TITUTE . NEW YORK encourage women who need help. one hi Here, as elsewhere, the 4 It is in no way a money-making waist line {8 elongated, the skirts are organization. Proceeds of sales are returned to comsigners, less a com- mission of 15 per cent, which is ap- &l d to the maintenance of the shop. 0 member of the board of managers is permitted to become a consigner. Articles of merchandise and food are for sale, made in their own home: thus permitting the women who are obliged to work to support their familles and keep their homes to- gether. The demands upon the league in the past year have been so great and! the cost of operation have been so materfally increased, due to lack of employment everywhere, the ladies of the board feel they must make an appeal to the ggneral public for essistance. Laces and Lace Curtain Cleaning MME. VIBOUD, Inc. Eatablished 1855, 727 11th St. N.W. Everybody’s Asked instep length for afternoon and even- 'x;;g;,h::d shoe-top length for tailored ] PERSONAL NOTES. Mrs. Maury Simon and her two chil- dren, Ruth and Louis, returned the early part of the week to their home, 1736 Lanier place, after spending the summer at Braddock Heights, Md. Mr. and Mrs. Joseph Kaufman, with their three young daughters, returned Thursday to their home in Cleveland Park, after spending the summer at their cottage in Ventnor, N. J. Mrs. Charles Kaufman is visiting_her son-in-law and daughter, Mr. and Mrs. Louis Koenigsberg, in Albany, N. Y., after spending the summer in Atlantic City. Mrs. Henry Adler and daughter, Miss Johanna_Adler, returned today from a < stay at the St. Charles, At- Rickie Gans, who was the gue AT LEFT, JENNY'S BLACK CREPE DE CHINE FROCK, WITH BEAD EMBROIDERY IN WHICH THE NOVELTY OF HER SLEEVES IS SHOWN. THEY ARE CUT AS SQUARES, IN ONE WITH THR BACK OF THE BODICE, ‘WHICH IS OF BLACK LACE. JENNY MAKES THE BLUE SERGE ON THE RIGHT WITH A NECK SCARF SERVING AS A YOKE IN FRONT AND DRAPERY AT SIDES. THE FROCK IS RUN WITH NARROW BLACK BRAID, SMALL SILVER BUTTONS “u":gll;&ooml AND A GREEN LEATHER BELT IS AT THE LOW were no sleeves, and that fashion still prevails, but it is now ent that the pendulum has swung to the most ornate, voluminous, colorful, exag- gerated sleeves that mind can devise. Italy in her glory has done nothing her colleagues do at the moment. Armholes are casually treated. Usu- ally they are fotrgotten. Jenny ap- pears to employ them when all othér means have failed to get the drapery to fall as she wishes. One popular sleeve which will be in full force in hats on the pointed drapery of gowns. They were immediately adopted at Deauville. Last winter and spring the house of Renee found special favor in the cyes of the Americans and this Sep- tember they crowded on the Champs Elysees to see what she had and if they liked it. They found that she had gone to the nt for inspira- tion. Not that any peasant, Russian, Rumanian or French, would appear one strap, welt soles, military heels. in floating clothes of vapor blue, or | America is nothing but a scarf placed clatives in Baltimore for two week: onion skin brown, mor let their frag- |across the front and back of a sleeve- | returned Friday. oo ile skirts touch the floor, but few |less bodice, then caught with snaps| Mr. and Mrs. Sidney C. Kaufman and —to cleAn-up, PAINT vp 8. on each shoulder, the ends dropping |daughter, Mr. and Mrs. Howard Big- now, 80 the capital city people would recognize themselves in a picture, and so, despite the dis- similarity between a enee frock for the winter of 1921 and a peasant blouse, the source the same. These new suits and frocks which will crowd eéach other in America, probably, if the walst line is not too extreme, are repeated in several colore and fabrics. The late Charles A. Dana once said that reiteration was convincing, and Ren vdently, e: pects the world to r that she in- tends to emphasize the tunic and the frock with extraordinary length to the walst, extraordinary breadth at shoulders and waist, if this can be done by reiteration. * % ok % Tnm 1s not a suggestion of nar- rowness about hér clothes. No one can look slim in them. There is more chance for that in the hoop- skirts of Lanvin and Callot and the l;‘und a;nd A;:uxt::r! A‘x'z‘d Mrs. Addie igmund, who spent the r Chevy Chase, M. o oocupled a cottage to the knees if they should be left to hang, but they aren't. They are wrapped about ihie arms, forming ou- rious types of sleeves. Another arm covering—that's the word, for their identification as a sleeve is foolish—is merely = part of the loose, broad bodice, cut wide enough to hang over the arm s&nd reach the hand. A trying shape for a broad woman. The fabric hangs loosely, like useless flesh, under the arms to the waistllne. She does in a less conspicuous manner what the Callot Sisters do; she drops a wide, hanging sleeve from an elbow brace- let. Bear well in mind that none of these sleeves are held in at the wrist. Such is not the fashion of the hour. They must drop over the hand, Chi- nese fashion, or th? must end square- | ., ly at the wrist. Jenny has & gown of black crepe de ne with lace sleeves and back of jice cut in one of lace :oudlsfl with red bead armament limitation con- ference visitors. Look to turned to town yesterday. 84 toisvelyinended PATNAY ufl:}."fg'{ lf:‘? ;M( ‘é‘;‘u:mer. s at most favorable prices. eb, estel to s . two weeks at Pon-yar > ° 24| Becker Paint & Glass Co. Clun met 3¢ the. Gountsy Gy, the.best | 1250 Soicsaisa Hor O Bnse t " s week for luncheon and pridge, - L | aroy e anac] Wost ST Mrs. Harry Levy, formerly Miss Ruth Greenabaum, has returned from a visit with relatives in Hanover, Pa. Mr. and Mrs, Adolph Kahn leave on Tuesday to g0 abroad, to remain un- til December 1. The Aftetnoon Bridge Club gave a luncheon at the Town Club on Fr! day in honor of Mrs. Leonard Behlost Mr. and Mrs. loss leas town the or _ Californi BOULEVARD Made in All-Patent Leather and Black Kid; welt -soles, 114-inch Cu- ban heel. All sizes and widths. 5 CLEOPATRA Made of the finest Patent Leather, turn sole, with new Spanish Louis heels, medium The New and Better Way. On your floor 01; at our 'he sleeves are exactly circular skirts of Poiret. There is ” man Hotel. z % 2 o ante to be altm 1n the skists | 2,05, &5, the bodive; they d0 not |member of the Shipping Board. .|| plant. All the delicate col- French last. All sizes and than the bodices. as the latter appear *x x % 28th street have as their guest the ors and beautiful shades widths. - former's mother, Mrs. Reviel of Philadelphia. Mr. and Mrs, Milton Baum and son and Mr. and Mrs. Maurice Eises and son, who spent the summer at their cottage in Friendship Heights, returned to - Washington Mr. and Mrs. A. M. Baer are spend- ng the week end in Forest Park, Bal. timore, as the guests of Mr. and Mrs. Henry Strauss. . Mr. and Mrs. Maurice Eiseman and Mr. Alfred Mayer have returnéd from a stay of some weeks in Atlantic City. Mr. and Mrs. Sol Peyser of Newport News, Vi guests of Mrs. N. Peyser the past week. —_— Apple and Currant Pudding. ‘Warm one-haif cup of milk and on third cup of golden sirup toget! Stir in two cups of flour, one-fourt! qup of currants, one-fourth ouo of also | chopped applées and one teasposn of ing W:td"' .l:lx well and add °fl:' oup_of su one egy. Mix| again and steam fér tto-rhaml _ are instantly restored by our process. Each fiber is so thoroughly cleaned that it is impossible for any dirt to remain. While our cleaning is second to none, our price is so low h;nhat we make carpet washing a necessity wirtgein the reach of all. - - Give us a trial and at once become one of our many pleased patrons. The Luwin Co. 2018 16th St. N.W. Phone N. 9160 CE upon a time & new house on the Place Vendome called by the name of Premet essayed a new movement to -frocks with & tran: parency. that -was astonishing to a world which had regarded opaque- s as .the . necessary. modesty for women. The skirts were cling- ing and revealing, the silhouette was that of a kimono, the embroidery was that of a er, and all the world of fashion and curiosity went there to see. What interested them especially was the perk an@ unusual bow of the Japanese variety placed at the back. This house, whigh has had its seasonal ning, displayed the same foniness fo placed al there it is placed colors of the sunset are the exquisite embrofdéry w! i the house assoolated with its name years ago. There is a red silk faille frock to escape the figure altogether. They N sag over the wide low belt which is| () tied about the lower part of the hips, making the string girdle slightly be- low the walst appear as old-fashioned as a normal waist line. These new girdles are adopted by all the houses, so there 18 no way of escape. As Renes uses them they direct attention to the hips and keep it there. Some- times there is & band of fur at the lower edge. Agaln there is embroid- ery or crystals. But what strikes one full in the face when viewing these gowns is the new silhouette, the Russian tunic, the cut- ting of the figure exactly in half with he huge ornamentitl girdle and the -ggln‘ of the blouse over this girdle. enee also advocates small capes and long ones. 8he makes them to match the frock, evéen when they are ot fur. No observer is left in doubt as to the part of the costume that Jenny preters. It is the covering that adorns the arm. France has gone tron‘ one extreme to the other. First, there Women’s Pure Silk Hosiery—In Black, Brown and Gray. Very specially priced at. yeste! Women and Children at Moderate “JOS. STRASB “310— 312 SEVENTH ] SUBURBAN New shade Tan Russia Calf, All Patent Leather, broad toe and flange leather heels, welt sole Oxfords. All sizes and widths. $9.00 Always a Full Line of Hosiery for Men, GEDR_ STREET 11%-inch JAZZ OXFORD plain, White, $1.50 Prices