Evening Star Newspaper, September 25, 1921, Page 53

: SOCIETY / SOCIETY THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. C, SEPTEMBER 25, 1921-—-PART 2.° Black Must Give Way to Brilliant Shades, According to Designers WOMEN| BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE. LACK is dead. Long live col- " ors.” ‘Such_is the interpreta- tion that might be given to the ofy ‘of the dressmakers. The concerted movement for colored <lothes and the comment caused by an allsblack costume were the two no- ticeable features: of- the -August col- lections. | “Whefi the American com- missionersideparted 6h the fastest MADELEINE ET MADELEINE, AND IS TRIMMED WITH BEAVER. drapery that is the despair of the amateur. that tone of red for the odd Moorish trimming he puts on the surface of gowns and wraps. red to wear. see. against black. * THERE is no falling off in beige, pink quality to it, suggestive of the = S kind of marble sometimes used for liners thi¥ left Franc& at the end of | lovely houses in Europe. This under- AT LEFT, A SMART CAPE OF BLUE CLOTH DESIGNED BY IT FALLS IN POINTS BACK AND FRONT This same designer uses It is a difficult It is a beautiful red to introduction is a rebellion * % Its but the new blege has a curious o i |t 1t t T b i G 53 AT RIGHT, ONE-PIECE FROCK WORN BENEATH THE CAPE, OF THE SAME MATERIAL, ENBROIDERED IN SILVER THREAD. BELOW: LONG MOLYN T 'ENING CAPE OF ALUMINUM CLOTH, WITH LS OF SILVER BEADS. August in order to open the American season in time for the buyers from | the States, who assemble in New York, they garried with them a strong: helef that the reign of black was qWr. As the September collec- tions at the French houses were of more importance to residents of Paris because they were arramged for the civilian and not for the commercialist, it is interesting to know that- these collections also emphasized the pass- ing of black. There are a few designers Who show black umes_cut _after the cost: Tashion of those that have been worn for two years. They-insist that the French wotnén is not ready to €0 into colors: that she has not the money to | ermit herself:to.depart from. the | economy of black. - Not that the buy- | ing of black begipsiin eéonbmy: far | from it ;fo{ onlyythe hest quality of black fabries.are .worth the purchas- | ing. Where economy-bekins is In the mid-servicé. of black clothes. Every \voman knows that_the assembling of accessories to each.colored gown is | here the genuine expense must be met in the wardrobe; it is in the as- sembling. of , hats and slippers, of Stockings avd underwear, of fur and wraps that the leakagé of money s. occil * ok X K Y the same reckoning the <choice B of one color to run’throughout the costume saves money. When a woman is an amateur in the choice of clothes, the choice of one color often averts disaster. When the French woman decided to choose black as the leading color of the hour, the Americans followed suit. They in- variably do. 'They do not follow the making of clothes as slav- ishly as they once did, but they take French Inspiration as their own. This is well. Paris has given much of its life to doing the thing for which it has a suprema falent, and America, being 'a clever, canny, ambitious country, is able to pay the price for the best and has the knowledge that carries. it to_the best market. The Frencliwoman will continue to wear that type of black costume! which-is the most conspicuous kind they have invented-for, decades. Yet that dges not argue that the costume has not passed into second place. It has. The introduction of colors by the Paris designers, the almost com- plete absence of the black costumes Mt Deauville, Vichy an@ Etai, lés Bains | show that the winter fashion is blow- ing from & mew quarter. The colors in the new ‘gowns prove that the pendulum has swung far to the other side. Sunrise and sunset, the desert and the orient, have con- tributed inspiration. There is an in- sistence upon red, that light, brilliant red that one seew in the*.geraniums planted in formal rows ‘in the gar-! den of the Triamon at Versailles. Yesterday afterncon a well-known ! American dressmaker was bending | over these glorious flowers. Some- one asked her if she had knowledge of gardening. She answered that she | knew nothing of flowers, byt she was interested in seeing that type of ger- nijum _ which rept:-hwlei the mew color in the gow: e had. There is also a Vatican red which Jean Patou uses in velvet evening ines~with the gowns gut;on. simple s S | med with this fur. Iving tone of pink makes beige ex- ceedingly becoming to the average face. It does not deaden the skinm. it carries n_certain warmth and gra- ciousness with it. There is little dark green, only a flicker of purple, no dark gray, no emphasis laid upon light gray, no widespread acceptance of brown. What are the colors, then, the public will ask. Well, there is a new type which is called Madeline blue. It has somewhat the tone of powder. It appears to be a mixture of green and blue with a dash of gray. It was invented for the house of Madeline et Madeline, and carries the name for that reason. This house, which is exhibiting re- markably new gowns this month, has created a gown which they call “Bat- tery.” or its French equivalent. The fact that the tone of it is powder blue gives a significant link between the name and the.cloth. It is trimmed with beaver, and by the way, a large number of the good gowns are trim- The cape is the novel feature of the costume. It introduces a mnew line. It is cut to hang in a series of points at back, front and side. It has no opening for the hands and it has no collar, nor has it an opening at the neck. It is quite the most envelopin; cloak that any fascinating brigand of the seventeenth century could have chosen. The originality of the neck line lies in the way that the cloth is brought straight to the top edge of a hidden collar of stiff buckram. The material falls in_straight lines from the even top of the stiffened neckpiece and gives a new and ex- ceedingly interesting line to the chest and shoulders. Napoleonic hat. The frock beneath it, also of Made- line blue, is cut on the straight lim| with a belt at the hips that this house indorsed when the others were at- tempting to bring in the Spanish hoon‘ skirt and the pointed bodice. Tt is! embroidered in silver thread. has open ' sleeves, and a simpte neck line. 'This house also uses the n2w mix- ture of wh d_and black, which gives a new tricolor, to amuse the One of the best evening gowns is in white crepe, with a biack It is worn with a beads, and there is a band of scarlet beads. down from shoulder to insgep. NO designer omits the clashing of black surfuce. This Is the compromise between all black and all red. gne of thg subtle steps away from black who are loath to change their choice of color. Steel, alumingm and bright silver are preferred to gold and jet ornamentation. and a great deal of steel 1§ seen. Rolande, whose gowns are especially apology tion, but against the Moroccan crepe. which all French for their new frocks, she puts a metal girdle at the hips which is built up | | ments embroidercd with steel sequins. anthemums pending upon for brilliancy. ever. does the front of the frock * k% K bright white metal against a 1t is that are offered the women Very little jet is used, iked in America, uses black without in her late autumn collec- houses have used »f thin steel rings linked to orna- t is this house that alxo uses chrys- made from shoe laces of he material of the frock. This is a rick which signs the name of Ro- ande on a frock. There are so many of the French women dressed by this house that one realizes the mportance of these black frocks de- their oriental girdles| en Rolande, how- s much as she clings to black, ot evade the handwriting on the ) wall. She also uses the red and erange of the sunset. Gold seems to have taken an ob- scure position. It is rarely seen. The steel industry should look up. The French gown collections alone have used an_appreciable amount of this metal. The large rings of steel will probably spread from girdles to other parts of the frock. Other steel-colored metals which it would take a metal- lurgist to define are woven on a coarse VOGUE PATTERNS lace cape, showing a low bodice un- derneath it embroidered with red | M P e SPECIAL Hudson Seal Coats, skunk collar and cuffs; 40-inch length, $255.00 French Seal Coats, ‘40-inch length, natural skunk and beaver coliar and cuffs, | NEW HOME OF THE WELLS SHOP $160.00 Dependable Fur Garments at Remarkably Low Prices All Furs Guaranteed v 13151317 F NNE RITTENHOUSE. The Sund_ay Star's Faslu'on Authority., Says French Makers of Fashions Have Placed Black Frocks in the Discard—A Fashion of Several Years™ Standing Is Dropped—Colors of the Sunset to Replace Somber Shades—Steel and Silver Trimmings—Ol1d Styles That Persist. duced metallic tissue This hood at the back, of the metal. son to freeze in it. lity. reckon with * ok ok ¥ T2 clothes. One is the tunic blouse |Mark of Rope on Neck—Husband |at the (;{uli(urma (;ulluge of Agricul- el X ture, taken over the entire manage- Renee, Jenny, Eliane, spomsor this Will Be Questioned. ment of the great stock ranches in- garment with all the weight of their | power and prestige behind it. lets the blouses reach nearly to the Jenny fashions them so they knees. appear beneath the short coat. jackets are short and flaring at the hem, which gives the tunic an excel- lent opportunity to reveal itself, even before the jacket is removed. In an- ticipation of this, the bottem of the tunic is finished with a three-inch| band of fur, of dyed slyn: zephyr. Renee intends her be worn under capes and long coats, or merely fur pleces until the cold wtather sets in, so she uses on them | Emma B. Wells Have since the opening of their new Showrooms, weloomed many visitors. We hope our other friends who have not found us will do so. A very pleas- ing atmosphere is to.be + . -found. NEW MODELS of Madame Grace Corsets The Faeso Corsets Gassard Corsets ' Bon-Ton Corsets Saite 507-510 American National Bank Bidg. Street N.W. ranklin foundation and turned into splendid evening wraps. Molyneux has made for an American debutante an even- ing wrap of this metal that might have served ome of the de Medicis, especially that Catherine who intro- into the world of fashion for wedding gowns. evening wrap by Molyneux opens down the side, has a burnous i3 fringed at the lower edge and is tied on one shoul- der with weighty cords and tassels It is lined with crepe in the color of aluminum. There is no 1t i not neces- sary to permit it to open over one bare arm and shoumlder, for the side can be turned to the front with faci- It is merely not as smart nor 28 original when opened in front, and if the debutante of the year is simi. lar to her predecessors, she will not snow or mnorth She will merely do what is smart. use steel as Salammbo, who was the sister of that Hannibal who crossed the Alps, used it in her gor- geous clothes may be a new and rul- ing fashion. but there are other old fashions that are advocated in new the ernamentation one would put on a frock. The skirts below these tunics reach nearly to ankles, and this length is balanced by the hip belt, which holds the fullness of the blouse into such slight dimensions that the cloth above the hips is full and sagging, somewhat after manner of & peasant's blouse. Eliane is creating an entire In the costume which makes this clipped zephyr a conspicuous feature. It {s a new kind of trimming, so watch out for it. It is not unlike an exceed- ingly soft sheepskin. It is in black or in colors and is used in bands to outline edges. These suits of Ellane’s which have pleased Americans consist of a skirt, with a tunic of rough crepe, banded MISS EUDORA CLOVER. buy an entire outfit in one sweep and it 18 a pity that the house has not added a blouse to go with the skirt and cape. The reason for its omis- sion is the preference women have shown for brilliant tunic blouses and the lavish display of them by the large shops. So, here we are. back to the-over- blouse. It Is called a tunic. It is sponsored by the best designers. It is worn in every color that nature and artifice have contributed to the: world. It is no longer banded in at the hips, however, and it often has long sleeves. Tts significant feature is its length. 1t is bodily taken from the blouses of the peasantry and was invented to offsct the length of the new long skirt. years and then to marry. pursued in frivols. winds. Miller, from California, e BODY FOUND IN LAKE. amtndment. herited from her Cloverdale, and time to improving conditions ‘Renes| STAMFORD, Conn., September 24.— | An autopsy was performed yesterday ! on the body of Mrs. Norah Johnson Kettelle, who disappeared at Lake Mashapaug four days after marriage to John D. Kettelle of Cambridge. Mass., and whose body has been found in the lake. The medical examiner said there was a mark on the neck made by the rope fastened to the boat anchor. The rope was tightly drawn around the neck when the body was found. ' Coroner John E. Fahey of Tolland county announced that he would question Kettelle in regard to the case on Monday. | nomieally and in the esthetic sense. with a mansion This vast property which lies on the hill in Sonoma county, during the lifetime of Mr. Miller his plaything and his He had filled and horses. busy to plan into no married the had Washington, and thereafter bility weighed heavily upon Our lines of ladies’ fashionable hat frames and new fall trimmings afford those desiring to make their own hats ample and pleasing choice. Our Renovating and Remaking Dept. —will repair and retrim your worn hat after the latest ideas, and your satisfaction with our work is assured by our long experience. LADIES’ CAPITAL HAT SHOP 508 Eleventh Street N.W. Phone, Main 8322 any other make. : $5‘00 Suit Your Down Convenience Absolutely Free Service Payments to Her of thick louses to sign or manufacture. short life. motion. RELIABILITY unforeseen mistakes in manufacture. play safe. by leading life-long satisfaction. : GUARANTEE 'I'II.ABCilmmdunmergedlyinwfit- jomtly Iub‘l.euw:tfh the lnlnufw:ctm The “pur- chaser is practically doubly insured. - Webster Electric Co. 719 9th St. NW. Public Eye BY MARGARET B. DOWNING. ;vllllh lthe l‘llm;led ]zr-nhyr. a cape that{ WASHINGTON, September 24— alls from shoulder to knee, also When Chief Justice Taft was Presi- banded, and a turban of zephyr and (efenar 2t e a mnvm‘;mffl’m»‘l;“";" dent he often emphasized his belief that the most useful type of woman was one who selectad a career to de- vote her best talents to, outside of the regularly accepted formula to have a good time in society for a few He held that matrimony should be the result of such endeavors and in which two congenial people vould naturally be associated, and not an end to be Miss Eudora Clover, daughter of the late Admiral Richardson Clover and his wife, who was Miss Dora Miller, daughter of the late Associate Justice can measure up to the high standard set by the . Chief Justice and, incidentally, can be used as the type of woman produced by the times and by the dignities con- ferred on her sex by the nineteenth Miss Clover has recent- ly, after completing a two-year course grandfather is devoting all her eco- the hills and canyons with improved breeds of sheep, cattle and he was never too improvements for his ranch or to purchase bettet stock. When his only child, Miss Dora Mil- ler, after a brilliant social career in Navy, permanent home, the cares of judicial l;#anvxll- him, Some washers are noisy. Some have a great deai of vibration, others will knot the clothes, and some will “Walk” about the floor unless made fast by some device. These are simply indications of improper de- Shocks and vibrations mean The A B C runs so smoothly and quietly that you can balance a pencil on top of the machine while in New, untried and discontinued products can always be bought at cut prices—"bait” to get you to pay deatly for Select an A B-C and Its twelve years of uninterrupted success, its more than 250,000 enthusiastic users, its world-wide sale ealers, its huge 20-acre, $2,000,000 factory, financially strong as Gibraltar, absolutely guarantees you i WISS EUDORA CLOVER. ranch was given over entirely to out- side managers. So it remained untid | this spring, when Miss Clover, after completing her studies under experts and with most satisfactory percent-: ages, took over the entire problem and intends to restore every feature lof the ranch to the perfection it had reached under Justice Miller. For this decision the state of California feels itself profoundly her debtor, since the absentee landlord has been one of its! trials, with the resulting loss of good | stock and first-class produce. Miss Clover intends to show what can be done when one is really in earnest. But she is not neglecting her social obligations in pursuit of this worthy aim. Her home lies on the highway of travel, and having lived in nearly every country of the globe. few days pass without some pasterby dropping in to greet her. She frequently makes visits to San Francisco and is always | in readiness to aid in neighborhood at the Styis 106 Fer the perfect foet. Made of brewn er Blaek kidskin. Low heels Filexidle soles and arches. | 1304 On the Purchase Price of the A B C ELECTRIC WASHER Beginning Tomorrow A.M, Sept. 26, on the First 100 Machines Sold Your opportunity to buy this famous washer and receive absolutely free $10 More than 250,000 women have bought A B C Electric Washers in individual tests, proving conclusively it’s the finest washer ever built, and more are sold and used in Washington than Call, Phone or Write O.R.Evans & Bro. § 720 13th St NW. @ and PEDI\CLLINIC Fusivi rch They foilow line of the foot. it, we will cheerfully remove it at our expense.’ amenities, picnics, Barbecres and barn dances. She is going to try for thret ylelds of winter wheat and a great crop of grapes under gluss such s are famous in the Riviera. Miss Clover is practically a Waush- ingtonian, as all the greal events ¢ her life have been staged here. As o child she attended school with little malds who are still her closest friends. She made her debut with as much eclat as that which attended her mother's and reigned suprem: among her set, until the war perma nently turned her thoughts away from social pleasures. She gave 1wo years in France during the war, ar another twelv struction committees. proficient French = knew figures. the my: less and telegraphy. typewriting. Fall Fashion Notes. Carved ivory roses hung about the neck on a long colored silk cord. sometimes red, sometimes blue. some times purple and sometimes green. n need of @ months to the rec in enography and Feather combs, mounted on tor- toise shell. The feathers are of iridescent tints and are small and closely fastened, So that the effect is like that of a bird's smooth and gleaming. breast, Tasrels at the ends of long, sweep- ing trains. Sometimes the tassels are of jet beads. sometimes of crystal beads. . They are long and heavy and somet es tip a two-nointed train. that hangs from the shoulders and is divided at the waist to fall away in two tapering points. bead Buttons made of wooden sewed to a form. English eyelet coliare and cuffs edged with narrow Valenciennes lacs Black silk gauze fans spangled with green sequins Fringe trimming on petticoats and combinations. On some of the petti- coats two rows of the fringe nre placed around the bottom. one at the edge, one at the top of the hem. Envelope purses made of striped moire ribbon, a satin stripe cutt:nc through the watered marks of the moire pattern. All Leather Cannot Hurt. B LT e —— ‘ Style 103. For the bunion or corn | foot. Extra ball m sm: F.St. IJ : L X Approved and Indorsed by Good Housekeeping Institute. U L ll 1 Free Trial :. Have an A B C Washer in your home at our h risk. If you have the slightest fault to find with -