Evening Star Newspaper, July 24, 1921, Page 53

VICTORIAN FROCK OF DARK BLUE TAFFETA COMBINED WITH ROSE TAFFETA. WHICH IS TRIMMED WITH SMALL BOWS OF THE BLUE FABRIC, AND HAS TIGHT BODICE WITH SHORT SLEEVES. BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE. HEN the crowds of American have 5 way of digesting & Fr tourists were, getting ready |fashion for a year, for thefr invasion this sum- mer the dressmakers said to | them: . “Wear black. Have your gowns | nations has no weight if one rémains and hats unrelieved by color. flowers. Omit | Look as much like an eigh- teenth century alhouette as possible.” | Most- of the Americans took this at u They arrived like a proces- | adviece. sion of mutes at an an¢lent funeral. And what did they find? The usual ‘ thing; the French were in the process of changing their minds. What curlous summers we have had trying to the mind of Paris over three thousand miles away! One's memory goes and disappointing read back the dressmakers were not to blame. Conditions were to blame. Americans S nd by the time France is ready to discard i America has taken it up. This difference between the two in America. Then one dresses like the rest of the world. Trouble com. whan ons -goes. bf?d and sl -«snm«nm—-n[a‘en y. m_h hat—of the -fact that on clothes are copled after the woman's old elothes: * k% & ¥ VWFAT of it. insist those who think women should he above such pet- ty frivialities? The. answér to that expresion of contempt is that human nature is not above this thing and the people who do the most jeering best nch- into the brilllant era before the, War.|are apt to be weaklings of the worst -Even then the Americans arriving by every steamer foind themselves | the , objects of attention and com-|they streets because;and find miseration on the they were wearing the wrong clothes. or rather the fashions had been carded. Paris. had worn' these things—oh. | yes—but Paris had tired of them ‘was wearing something else. The women who. had paid dis- i and high | kind, who are quite miserable if g0 to an ‘oocasional dinner party themselves in the wrong clothes, regarding it as near-tragedy. This is not only true of women. but ef men; possibly more true of men than of women. The sex that is afraid to wear a straw hat until a certain day in the spring because his fellow men are wearing felt hats can't throw rices for clothes ip America’ were stones. at women. ious with their dressmakers, but | But away from philosophy and back { @OWN OF BLACK OREPE DE CHINE WITH INDIAN SLEEVES OF /| BRIGE CREPE. WIDE SASH IS LINED WITH BEIGE AND BEGINS WITH -BUNCH OF ORCHIDS PLACED AT BELT. KNQTTED AT THE NECK. CAPE l‘ OF THE FROCK yum A AT LEFT IS HAT OF BLACK VELVET FACED WITH GREEN. A GARLAND OF GREEN LEAVES AND PINK FLOWERS GOES UNDER THE CHIN AND FALLS FROM THE BACK OF THE HAT OVER THE SHOULDER. AT RIGHT T VELVET. DESIGNS WHITE SCARF UNDER THE CHIN LARGE WHITE fashion. The American Wwomen Thave, and will have, a feeling of fury { that they wear in Paris the fashions i that have been discarded by Paris. ! Over a decade ago there were ! thousands of women descending upon Paris with de skirts, many of them pleated, and they were met in Paris by women wearing tight skirts that reached nearly to the ankles. Most of them did not have enough money to discard their American clothes and buy French clothes, so to tended they did not see the politely derisive glances of the French. | The same thing happened two years !ago, when the Americuns went over with thelr trunks filled with long tight skirts and found the French wearing the shortest skirts ever re- i corded in history. | “An American liner has just ar- irived,” ‘was the constant remark on the Place Vendome ds the American women appeared in their ankle-length | kirts. | _This spring the Americans went to i Parls with very short skirts and 1 }erose, : ! "There you ‘are. The difterence: be- jtween the two seats of women demand i that the Americans be able to.re- tain their racial feeling of superiority with white, beige, gay embroidery, bows oF. Fibbone: bRt flowers and~ some |do not hesitate to smile when they find we have not csught up w them. It Is a very polite smile wh it is not on the faces of the midk ettes, but these youngsters have gamin's delight in sticking out thir tongues, figuratively, ay the clothi and customes of foreigners. p * % x 8 i loNE thing which is quite strange to observers over here is #h |fnc: that American women can get an American type of gown made n Paris which has not a single eir- mark of French chic. How they do it 1s a mystery. It makes oRe‘De lieve that the marvel of French de- signing does not penetrate helow the upper strata. Z There are Americans in Paris who are buying quantities of clothes from what they call little dressmakerg and boasting of the small price they pay an account of the exchange, but there is not a single difference between such gowns and those that can be found in any American depsriment shop. They are strangely, peculiarly stamped with a label of the United States. Iven their copies of the great gowns scen at important establish- ments are wondrously like the type of thing that one achieves at home with a_ seamstress by the day. It might be said just’ here without lpnl(ify for its irrelevance that the American clothes which sell ‘at the same prico as the cheap clothes of Paris are Dbetter cut. better fitted and have more distinction. To find from which quarter. the wind is blowing it is necessiry to watch smart French women at this season of the year. What they wear s the one thing that counts. By “smart” one does not mean aristo- cratie, for here, as in America and England, one cannot look to the old e in costumery. smart woman here is not always in soclety, but she is in the first rank of those who make clothes a pro- fession and therefore becomes ob- Jects of first interest to those of us who are in Paris for such work. It is not possible to see new clothes during July and therefore the American tourists who see half empty dressmaking houses, who are offered the models of last April for their inspectien, who see only strangers and French workers on the streets, cannot form & correct idea of French fashion. The omen who wear gool clothesware not wearing them In de- sert towns. They are showin, themselves off at the resorts, an they are saving their best for the eat week in Normandy on_the inglish channel where, as usual, in Eurepe, fashions follow the horses. All social life comes to-a glorious cli- max on the night of the first Sunday in August. It does’ not re-awaken until next April. The moment that great night breaks into the dawn of Monday, the world of workers, including Amer- icans, rush to 'Paris for weeks of hard work spent - inspecting new ruh{on The world of plegsure goes to sleep, to rest, to read, to take life T enic oF Blarrits st tha ena g a e : e end of t is what the smart French are wearing, therfore, that is of inter- est to those Americans who are at home as well as those who are here. * ¥ ¥ % PTHE first direct- change that one 4 notices is the unexpected addi- toin of white and beige georgette crépe and chiffon to black gowns. The frequency .of “this fashion give one the feeling that the nation is coming out_ of first into second motrning. True, no one could as. te ifeeling of grief with the kind of ‘black gowns worn by, th nek’ womern: - who % e mourning. Its 'diillian were nof was effective than celor; l!? nnutlo:fi OF VELVET ARE PASTED ON THE CROW they put on a brave exterlor and pre- | to ai] other nations, for the Frencp ! CREPE HAT FACED WITH BLACK THE IS EMBROIDERED I BLAC ' purple or crimson. The French women being artists, arranged their {faces to suit these dull black cos- tumes and the effect was theatrical. Simplicity is not the keynote oi the new clothes, Severity is far from them. There ix a _conscious return to frivglity expressed in {small things and there is a direct jand definite cleavege between the | Taghions that ‘call for one material and one color from crown to heel. and the fash'on that permits flounce of ecru lace, bodices of one color against a skirt of another.: |square Indian sleeves of belge or (white crepe implanted in @ black todice, and long tunics of white | jcrepe.’ embroidered in black. placed {between a black skirt and cape. A few months ago the woman who wore a blue taffeta frock with al kirt gix vards wide at the hem and | ! givided into two parts, the upper’ part blue. and the lower rose, would have been regarded as an eccentr: | Yet 2 smart woman appears in such| a gown at a summer resort and is, considered smart. | while. t The bodice ends i above the w line and its short: {8leeves are fied with immense bows on the 'top of t¥e arpi,. THe wearer, iof this gown proménadeés before the ¢multitude. knowing full well the sen-| {sation she c-eates. There is another str | who has nothing of the Victorian at- mosphere about her who wears clothes that suggest the swagger of ! a brigand. 'She, too, is smart. One of her unique frocks. widely observed, is of black crepe de chine with a. trousered skirt, partially hid- den by immense sash ends that fall !down In front of skirt and are lined iwith beige. The bodice of black ils like a breast plate. The enormous isleeves are of hicge crepe, unlined. {She wemos oo bleel eape in /mannish | ifashion with one end thrown back- yward over the shoulder, the tronts | i knotted t - {She tucks a bunch of ore ibelt_and mounts a large ;of biege crepe on her head. giving | tit color with a bunch of orchids that | jtip_over the edge. You can imagine that in the great | once in a ¢ woman ! gulf of difference fixed between these two costumes the American uall:es‘ the fact that no one silhouette rules the day. but she also realizes the fact | that the bathing suit frock with the | BLACK ' VELVET UAP!. WORN: TURN from the color worn for several seasons—What American women found in'France after they had prepared for the summer in Paris—Impossible to dis- cover new clothes in July and August, and the women who wear good clothes are not wearing them in deserted towns—The first changes noticed. not s powerful as it was. To prove the change, there is still another type of black gown which has been lightened with white and creates a distinct departure from the frocks of last spring. It is worn By a woman who fs tall enough to carry a full cape floating from her shoulders at the back—and right here is the place to emphasize the fact that the French- H found the French lowering the hems.| Not only is the skirt divided into|woman has suddenly decided to let go ITMN summer tourists have arrived!two parts, but it is festooned with|of her cape. sfin.{o Iacnzar :hpsgll in their dead biack costumes to find!ribhons of dark biue taffeta which|about her and holds it in place with the French lightening their solid black i gre arranged in bow-knots. every!her hands. She lets it swing from a neckband and compels it to serve as a plcturesque backgrousd for her figure. * ok % X HIS gown of black and white, with its decorative cape, is a simple combination when one &usects it and immensely effective whew one observes it. There is a plain black satin skirt, a long, straight tunlc of white geor- gette embrofdered in black silk threads touched with jet. A marrow string girdle of black satin drops carelessly about the figure. The cape is of black velvet, not of satin or crepe. It is lined with white georgette and hung | bout the shoulders by one of those thick Persian Tolls which have served | as girdles ever since the French took recent inspiration from the ancient East. The velvet cape interests Americans. It presents a definite contrast to crepe| de chine and taffeta. Its rival is a full cape of mauve organdy, lavishly bor- dered with grey chinchilla. This gar- ment is grorn over a picture frock mauve organdy, with an orchid trim- med hat and & bunch of orchids hold- ing_the girdle. The milliners do not intend to let the WITH BEACH SUFT IN FRANCE IT IS LINED WITH WHITE GEORGHTTE. SKIRT-IS OF BLACK ;.l"ll v !beat neckline and the string girdle is | dressmakers reap all the glory in these | | resorts of France, and while many of { their hats may be experimental, they are not only artistic, but they repre-; sent a variety of ideas. R i The fundamentals of the new hats | may be the same as other hats have possessed for two years, but they are presented in a new guise. There 18 nothing commonplace about one black velvet hat worn in the afternoon by a woman who has a classic face, for in- stance. Its foundation is black velvet d its widely upturned brim is lined with flatly pasted green leaves. garland of pink roses and leaves falls under the chin, another drops down- ward over the shoulder. Surely this is a curious expression of the fashion for plumage that tries THE MAIN COURSE ON A-HOT DAY Jellied Chicken. Jellied chicken is a delicacy to be appreciated on a warm summer da; To make it, boil a fowl until the meat will slip easily from the bonmes and the liquid in which it is boiled is re- duced to about a pint. Then remove skin and bones and keep the meat in good sized pieces. Put them in wetted mold. Remove all the fat from the liquid, strain it. season it with pepper and salt, add half an ounce of dissolved gelatine and pour over the chicken. If the chicken is for an invalid the seasoning men- tioned will be sufficient, Otherwise the addition of a_ew sprigs of par- sley and a slice of onfon to the boil- ing chicken will be an improvement. Fresh Salmon a la Tartare. Marinate the salmon in olive ofl, poured into a plate with pepper. galt and a little chovned pargley. Keep the fish in the oil for an hour or s turning it many times. Then broil it over a_ clear fire, cooking it slowly, until both ‘sides are light brown. Serve with sauce tartare. made by adding gradually a tablespoon each of capers, olives, parsley and green cucumber pickle,’ chopped fine, and drained in & piece of cheesecloth, to a cup of mayonnaise. Ham in Asple. Put a little aspic in the bottom of a mold and in this put some thin quar- tered slices of hard holled cggs, some | i | tween both. Black With Beige and White for the Summer, Season to reach the knees instead of the stars! Another new. hat {5 of white crepe de chine with an airplane brim lined wi; black velvet; its wide crown has b velvet designs pasted op It; in t! features one does not get the shock of movelty, it is true, but in the chin searf- of white crepe embroidered in A | black one gets a fleeting glimpse of the prevafling fashions when Louise was Queen of Prussia and had to use her lovely coquetry on Napoleon for the suke of her country. This chin band is much in evidence. WOMEN In the . Public Eye | Lady Geddes. BY MARGARET B. DOWNING. Sir Auckland and Lady Geddes have shattered all the precedents attached to the British embassy, and they have also caused Washingtonians to revive their ideas of the ironclad customs which prevall in the foreign office at London. They are both very young people asn an ambassador and chate- laine of the British embassy, and are, in fact, the most youthful who have 1esided in the stately old mansion of the Lion and the Unicorn. Lady Geddes was preceded from London and Mon- treal by a reputation for being more ab- sorbed in her nursery than In social affairs, bus Washington has found that she can divide her time equitably be- Sir Auckland came dfrect to Washington from Montreal, where capers and some bifs of thin pickled jhe was acting as president of the Me- beet. Arrange these decorations neatly. Allow the jelly to harden and then put some of the garnish on th sides of the mold in the same wa: Now fill the mold xmmuy slices of thin boiled Ham and liquid aspic and let it harde Turn from with | plex status of “Luady Prexy" Gill University and holding the chair of anatomy. Lady Geddes, therefore, as it were, over night changed the com- i of the great Canadian seat of learning to the dignified role of presiding over his the mold and serve in slices, with a | Britannic majesty’s Washington home. mayonnaise salad. Sweetbreads In Asple. Braise the sweetbreads and cut them in two lengthwise. Have ready some molds of the size to hold them and in the bottom of each mold put diced cooked carrots agd green peas. Cover with jelly and Jet it harden Then lay the sweetbreads on this jelly and cover them with liguid aspic.” Al- low it to harden and turn from the molds. Molds of Lamb With Tomato Sauce. Two cups of finely chopped lamb, half a cup of dried bread crumbs. a tablespoon each of chopped parsley and onion juice, two tablespoons of melted butter, a cup and a half of stock and the thoroughly beaten volks of two eggs. mixed all together and seasoned with salt and pepper. Put the mixture into little ramekins which have been buttered and bake in a pan of hot water for half an hour. Turn from the ramekins und serve v:ith tomato sauce. Sweetbreads and Mushrooms. Make a white sauce, add the sweet- breads cut in little pieces and brown- ed in butter, and an equal quantity of mushrooms. Do not cook more than eight or ten minutes, as long cooking toughens the mushrooms. Serve with toast points. ]Millions of Women Support This Candidate for Big Job BY ADA LOUISE KERSHAW, -, MONG the leading wonian candi- dates for tige position of assist- ant attorney general of the | United States one of the most prominent is Marion Weston Cottle, LL. M, of New York and Berkeley, Calif. A practicing attorney in five states, member of the bar of the United States Supreme Court of the states of New York, Massachusetts,, New Hampshire, :Maine and California, Miss Cottle is acknowledged to be one of thg leading woman lawyers of the United States. In thetrial courts from Maine to Cali- fornia, on the lecture platform, president of the Women Lawyers' Assoclation of ithe United States and associate editor of the Women Lawyers' Journal, Miss Cottle's activities are nationally known and her abilities recognized by bench and bar. Few womdn members of tie bar are more widely known and prob- ably few possess her extensive train- ing and experience. Both heritage and environment combined with Goethe's prescription of “hard work and everlastingly at it” have con- tributed to her succéss. Born in Buf- falo of a long line of lawyers, her grandfather a judge, her father and ‘brother prominent attorneys of Buffalo, she was admitted to the New York bar in 1905. She received her dej of bachelor of laws from New York University and master of laws from Boston University. Then in-rapid suc- cession have followed other honors and degrees. Shortly after her admission to the California bar Miss Cottle was made an honorary member of the Kappa Beta Pi, legal honor sorority of the Univer- sity of California. She is also a mem ber of the Tau Zeta Epsilon of Welle: ley College. - Instead of detracting from her femi- nfnity, Miss Cottle’s attainments only make her seem more modest and un- assuming. Without a vestige of assur- ance or a shred of “The Book of Knowledge, complete” about her, she radlates confidence and sympathetic un- derstanding. “One of the fundamental requirements of a democratic government,” declares Miss Cottle, “is that the laws shall pro- tect all classes equally, and that these laws shall be impartiaily applied. There must be no discrimination in favor of one class as agaifist another, either in the matter of legal protection or of pun- {shment for offenses agall the law. There is an increasing desire on the part of upright judges to see that the law is administered so that the poor shall have the same just treatment as the rich.” . . Another of her well known statements is that “the most effective way of en- forcing a law is by obeying it.” Pun- ishment, Miss Cottle believes, is con- ned to the Individual offender. Obe- fence s the duty and privilege of all. The law ia here for a purpose, namely, to regulate human conduct and pro- mote justice. The law itself is inani- mate. Life must be infused into it by human beings so fired with a sense of Justice 'and a desire for the public good that they can never rest while error, oppression and dislayalty exist in the world. Faced with the suggestion that the Natfonal Capital might be interested to learn something about a leading can- didate for one of the most important Judicial m‘mnnu in the country, and that ps she owed it to the mil- dscy Sepeciaily the women of New York g 'n of lew Yorl and California, Miss Cottle consented to let some of the main faots of her career tohd. “The miilliors of women supporting her is no exaggeration. Her list of in- dorsers includes the Republican Women's State Committee of New York, repre- senting the total voting strength of the republican woman voters of New York state; the 's Politieal League of Kings Cougty, the Women Lawyers Asmciation ' of the United States, of which she was president for three years, and seven-eighths of whose members are practicing in New -York state. Her woman backers also include President Pendleton of Wellesley College, promi- nent women of New , and the woman voters individually and colle tively in the various states where she for” suffrage and where |n_ho is now engaged in active practice. jpporting her candi- Among noted men of the nation her in- dorsers number justices of supreme and superior courts, senators and rep- Tesentatives and prominent citizens in every walk.in life. One of Miss Cottle's aims for the country is the standardization of di- vorce laws that will make the nation proud of its merality. New York state, she feels, should be a leader in this movement as it was in granting woman MARION WESTON COTTLE, One of the candidates for the post of assistant attorney gemeral of the United States. suffrage. And it is the millions of re- publican woman voters of New York state particularly who have their hopes centered on Miss Cottle’s appointment. ‘The post calls for an attorney of breadth of vision, wide training and ex- perience, for ability to handle problems of national significance. These qualifi- cations Miss Cottle's record would seem to show she possesses. It further calis for a person of discrimination; who can keep her own counsel and is not given to talk, angd that Miss Cottle qualifies as to these ints also this depopent solemnly swears. Custard Sauce. Beat the yolks of three eggs slightly and add one-fourth cup of sugar and a little salt, then gradually add while stirring constantly two cups of scalding milk. Cook the mixture in a double boiler, continuing the stirring until. it thickens slightly and a cbating is formed on the spoon. Strain immediately, chill and flavor with one-half teaspoonful of If cooked too long it will be vanila. Leave covered while it cools. grainy. D Pineapple Cream. Take one pint of chopped pineapple, ome-half pound of marshmallows, on pint of whipped cream and a little su- gar. Mix well and put on ice before serving. The 0ld Gardener Says: Complaints are often heard that tomatoes in the home gar- den do mnot ripen-fast enough. The coloring of the fruit can be hastened to some extent by breaking off a considerable num- ber of leaves, It is well also to dig a little nitrate of soda, say a teaspoonful, into the ground around each plant. You can have ripe tomatoes earlier than any other way by picking them as soon as they'show a lit- tle color and putting them on straw in a cold frame or box* under glass, but leaving the | glass raised a little at one sid | for ventilation. . LADY AUCKLAND GEDDES, ‘Wife of the British ambassador. Sir_Auckland had been called from McGill to London, first to take up arms with the Highland Regiment, the North- umbria Lancers,of which he is brigadjer general by brevet, then to be minister of recruiting, -and. finally to take the entire burden of the local governing board- of Londen. - Frem 1919-20, after being raised to the peerage, he was sent back to Montreal in hissold status. Unilike all other chatelaines of the British embassy, Lady Geddes had acted as hostess in no diplomatic establish- ment, though simce 1914 she had pagsed through experiences trying. and varied enough_to prepare her for any honor. In 1916 Sir Auckland st for the Basingstoke and Andover division of Hants, and won considerable recogni- tion in the commons. When he was making his memorable and victorious struggle for the government against the post-war profiteers, Lady Geddes pre- sided over an important political jome in London and won her laugels in the larger sense. Though it is @opular to gay that this charming weman is an American, she s =0 only in the accident of having been born In Staten Island, the daughter of Mr. William A. Ross, a_ British citizen engaged in business affairs in New York. Her father, how- ever, some years after, returned to New York and became naturalized, and Lady Geddes has a large circle of relatives, including two brothers, who are staunch supporters of the Stars and Stripes and vaters in the Empire state. She was Miss_Isabella Gamble Ross. Thi the Gambles, her mother's peeple, she - has many relatives in the nobility of England and Scotland, while the Rosses have been prominent in Ireland for cen- turfes. She met Sir Auckland, then Dr. Geddes of McGill University,” while he was returning from a visit to his eld home in EdifSurgh, and she, a passen- ger on the same ship, was coming to New York after passing the summer in Treland. The marriage took place within & few months of that first meet- ing, and the young couple took up qua ters quite Wmodestly on the campus of McGill. They passed all their vacations from that .event in 1906 until the war cloud brake over in Europe in 1814 in the group of,Lady Geddes' kindred, who have homes in Staten and Long Island. There are five children, ranging from the son and heir, born g year after the marriage, and. who is named Ross Campbell Geddes, to a fine boy less than four, David Campbell Geddes, who, with a_brother two vears older, John Reay Campbell Geddes, enjoys the dis- tinction of being a war baby. There is one girl, Margaret, familiarly Peggy, very lovely and a perfect horsewoman, and _another boy, Alexander Campbeli Geddes, named for the venerable father of the ambassador, who is an_embritus professor of medicine in the University of Edinburgh. The Art of Small Talk The man who is a failure at small talk never quite hears what the girl he is talking to has to say. He is trying to think what he is going to say next, 8o of course he cannot fail to misunderstand what the gir] he is talking to says. He is heedless, abstracted, worried and has a way of listening to the conversation of others rather than to those at hand. fh'l whom men regard as a good talker {8 always ready with a laugh and the girl who laughs well is always popu- lar. One can excuse the gir] who gig- gles if she giggles in & way that makes others merry and seems to tell those with whom &he talks that they are en- tertaining her immensely, that their stories .are deliciously funny—though they may-be very stupid—and that on the whole she is enjoying herself and her companions enormously. “How should & man start the conver- satian at & dance?’ is a frequent query. Thete are a thousand ways and it any-way Is 2 good way providing it s mompt and whole minutes of -mldng silence do-not slip by before anything said, Little personal remarks that are not impertinent are sure to win & girl's attention. “I was impatient fbr this dance,” says the popular man to the girl dressed in old rose, whom he has met for the firat time that night, “because I always find that 1 get along famously with girls that wear pink. I can tell a lot about & &irl by the colors she likes toswear.” The ,man who never geems to know what to say {0 a wofan would say “[_knew I had irl in pink, but thére something like this: this dance with a are.so many girls in pink here all look WOl alike to me, so I was uld'ask the wrong girl”