Evening Star Newspaper, May 22, 1921, Page 73

HE American woman is secure- 1y anchored to a shirt waist She may adopt the Frenc word *blouse” and pronounce it in her own way or with thé accent on the French *w” It may hang over her skirt like a Chinaman’s tunic or a peasant’s smock, or it may be ear| 1y tucked into her skirt in the way that America invented. There are two- classes of women who can be depended upon for loy- alty to the genuine shirt waist; one class is the young and waistless who ‘can stand the tail of the blouse tuck- ed over the hips and the abdomen; the other class is middle-aged with a long-cultivated waist line and a tight- 1y strapped hip line. The women in between prefer the careless overblouse. It saves them {the trouble of seeing to it that body ‘end soul are joined, as they say in New Orleans. Now and then the American women arift away from -‘the separate blouse. The shops insist that the sale of these garments has been as large throughout the reign of the one-piece frock as it was before women took it into their heads to' partially elimi- nate_ the coat suit, but the observer has a feeling that the one-piece frock suppressed the shirt waist. What is true of the loyalty of Americans to the separate blouse is also true of the tailored suit. Neither is_ever entirely forsaken. Possibly our clithate keeps us desirous of the comfort and convenience of the in- formal attire or rather the costume we think is convenient merely be- cause we are familiar with it. * % ¥ % TKE truth is that the one-piece frock is ahead of the suit as far @s convenience is concerned: it is more easily made, it is cheaper to buy. more simple to adjust. It is the primitive garment of the world. The shirt waist, however, belongs o us, which may partly account for our constant usage of it. We con- «sider it our contribution to costumery. So _does the rest of the world. The late Gen. Thomas H. Barry told an amusing story in connection .with the American shirt waist which ahows how its fame has reached unto the obscure regions of the earth. He ‘was in military command of the Philippines when the Suitan of Sulu and his wife—sounds like comic opera personages—made their call of cere- mony. They came with some display of splendor from their dominion, ar- rived in Manila, and made their w. to Gen. Barry's house. When Mrs. Barry received them. the sultan FRONT. ¢ @F YELLOW FILET LACE, NNE RITTENHOUSE Says the Chinaman’s Shirt and the Peasants S Have Become Models for Some of the Latest Blouse Modes—Garments Hang Over the Skirt —Ornamentation by Embroidery and Applications of Cloth. Curious Fabrics Used for Tailored Skirt and Coat, Also Separate Skirt, Through- | out All Hours That Call for Informal Attire—The “Waistcoat.” to Be Worn With THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. C, MAY 29, 1921_PART Z. BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE. | pointing her gzarment, at she wore the American tional costume p white shirt waist ten-dollar gold used to fasten the blouse. | 0 make garments for the DE CHINE, EMBROIDERED IN BRIGHT FLOWERS. AT EACH SIDE | g part of the skirt and not something THERE ARE MANY LOOPS OF THE | o be taken off. To prevent the jack- FABRIC HAN SKIRT, spire designs For some commer there is an insistence upon this gar- | ent fact that the Amer- | ican woman has taken up the mascu- line tailored suit as her spring due to the ev time. but she includes one sucH suit! in_her wardrohe. is interesting strengthen made up of s what in England These are mad to watch the pro- women wex of a thick mot- WITH GRAY CREPE. 'ES AND A LARGE BOW AT THE SIDE, IS CUT IN A STRAIGHT AT THE HEM AND COMES NEARLY TO THE HI WORN WITH A KNIFE-PLEATED GRAY SKIRT. —_— IT HAS LONG homespun tw. lina woolens wo ed and there a Serge is lacking. been accepted only by the minority. For the first time it is considered good dressing to ap- Crepe de chine has during the day in the simple of lgose coat and skirt. the kind th he English woman has always worn he country, usually with her hands Even that gesture is copied over here this season. French sugges made and worn in the British empire, is accepted. has simplicity, durability and a sufficient informality to keep it out of the battles of fashion. It takes no part truggle for a round neck or an ob- sleeve or a long or a flounced With 2 magnificent gesture It er pockets. FHE French idea of ornamenting a tailored suit has been so monly accepted by Ameri It is mere- thought our women had forgotten the costume which they made famous and cut and fit with ex- which our tailors is not quite no determined standardized deep pink, bright fashion for the t¥pe of Suil that men wear. d to follow the color, SHOW AN ORGANDY GUIMPE. ORNAMENTAL BLOUSE OF CREPE —m— e she persists in regarding the coat as G OVE 2 | et from irritating the skin or absorb- ER THE | (e body moisture, careful women | wear plain blouses of white nainsook [cut high at the back, long in the tion by wearing a belt, b _| Sleeves, finished with a picot edge. Jority of women prefor oy the M2 | These come between the skin and the It thickens ‘. | coat. Many women attach their skirts cogithepaistiing by snaps to the bottom of these little FoerA camisoles instead of putting them on PECAUSE conts often open in front|a belt at the waist. The trick slen- there has come about an immense | 96168 the fizure sale of neckwear. It consists of or-| neckwear for jackets increases as the namental vests in a variety of fabrics season deepens. there is no lack of from organdie to silk covered with with an eyelet embroidery. | outer wi LFOR THE HOME GARDEN tive sandpiles in the shops now.|OVer a barrel, and prettier to look at is $65 b the sand off' the ground. There is a]board cannot fly off its base. ledge for a seat all around the box.| (roquet is coming back into vogue, and there is an awning cover over it|and in response to this Vogue we croquet to hold e mcks are in a bright striped awning. have really very attractiv e s with good-looking rac A tete-n-tete hammock—that is. a|balls and mallets. The: hammock half facing one way and|so decorative that they add to the {half the other—is a most delightfully [ porch furnishings. conversational arrangement, far more _— 50 than the ordinary hammock where vo persons must it calm This t w8 attractively upholstered as the or-|den in good s dinary sort, in all sorts of figured|ble, with a ru cloth of good shades of brown, green, | tle garden house, with an awning for blue and red. a roof, and uprights fastened to the| back of the bench for one wall, the ‘Then there is the individual ham-| nearby limb of a tree for the other. mock, the hammock chair, that is also| You can thus at slight expense have most comfortable. To be sure, one!something both unusual and attrac- can’'t lie down in it, but it is so ex-| tive. actly right for resting in, neverthe- less, far more comfortable to most ‘There are scree i | | Mushrooms? dash of cayenne and four tablespoons of the new this summer like the chameleon kaleldoscope. of the blouses manufacturers are the public or per- Whichever way it is. there is a belief that the separate blouse has come into its own. not to be the shirt waist of other days, undisputed su- the blouse of the summer will be varied and not uniform. blouses su; would feel suade the public. The coat is finger- | for it will ., has a mannish d revers, two broad pockets sides and long sleeves fastened buttons at the back. | skirt ix short, cut in two pleces with often resembles a waistcoat, simple reason that many of the new suits have coats that do'not fasten. in a straight line down ‘There is more novelty in color than k and blue are forsaken, paticrencd surfaces AT LEFT: A MORNING BLOUSE They open ORGETTE., WITH A WHITE CREP}S ATER: TAFFETA BLOSE HIPS. IT HAS ORGANDY COLLAR AND CUFF BITTOSHOLES FROM NECK T0 HEM. YELLOW ORGANDY, WITH BLACK SATIN GIRDLE RUN WITH BANDS OF RED AND WHITE THAT HAS L ; ENDS IN NG ENTS 1Y blouse or a waistcoat ited to the view that ugiy 1 GOES | \DER N BLOUSE shirt waist goes into the skirt. theso two garments are in different|ounces of bread crumbs which haveilows -this we will associate white emphasized. L been prepared by first soaking often warm and rich. is a deep tan called beige which sometimes has a suggestion of mauve the ugliness to the material with which it is cov-|be used to screen a garden bench ered. That, of course, is true of ull | where a break in the hedge of shrub- hammocks. bery leaves it exposed. swings—big enough for had in more cxnensive make, but this| umbrellas to protect them from the price is enough for a very satisfac- | damaging effects of wet weather. tory swing. There is a gliding swing, i - one that runs back and forth in re-| Big jars, some of them from sponse to the child's pushing instead | or ltaly, are sold for the garde of swinging in response to the same | of terra cotta or some glazed pottery. effort, that costs about twice as much. | These give a decidedly decorative — | touch if they are ptaced in un advan Another garden accessory sure to|tageous spot to hold some flowering charm the child is a teeter, quite as plant. || Also add one dozen chopped mushroom i one tablespoon of chopped parsle Do You Like |la pinch of salt, one peppercorn, a 1 thoroughly. and sprinkle of tomato catsup. Mix Then fill the tomatoe \ter. Bake in a moderate oven until pound of mushrooms and choP brown and serve with sauce made a: them fine. Add them to a quart of | follows: stock and simmer for twenty min-| Tomato Sauce. utes. Then rub through a fine Wire|ion, a carrot and a half clove of gar- sieve. Boil w quarter of a cup of|licall cut fine. Simmer gently for o i ! ten minutes, en stir in a tablespoon tapioca in a cup of water half an| jo'qjyr""a4d half a pint of stewed hour and add to the soup. Season|iomatoes and half a pint of stock. with salt and pepper, and at the last: Boil gently for thirty minutes, season add a cup of cream stirred up with!and strain. the yolks of two eggs. White Organdy Is Put half a teaspoon Deviled Mushrooms.—Butter the in- side of little paper cases and put a a Popular Fabric thin slice_of lemon in the bottom of each. Nearly fill them with minc- BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE. ed mushrooms, seasoned with lemon| When that weave of muslin known juice, pepper, paprika and salt. Spread a_thin layer of deviled chick- rgand en mixed with the yolk of egg over |fashion it carried the older people the mn‘ u!lenchPc:!e ‘Md bake ;nrh!“l; back to more demure and romatic days teen minutes, Put a teaspoon o ic 0 mayonnaise on the top of each and |¥hen young girls were not called serve at once. flappers. — In the minds of the older genera- Bacon apl ud oo Ele g ut Jay- | tion white organdy, the japonica, rib- fayers ‘of mushrooms in a buttered |boned slippers and a coiffure of curls baking dish for two or three layers|were linked with romance. with of each. Then cover with a layer of |coquetry, with the establisbed camou- mashed potatoes, well seasoned. Add |flage of woman’s inferiority to man as two more layers of bacon and mush-|a worker and her superiority to man rooms and then top off with a layer|in the art of attracting and evading of potatoes. Scatter with bits of but- [pursuit. ter and bake.for half an hour in a| The old, old game goes on. It wiil moderate oven, covered. Then re-|never change. But its outwerd mani- move the cover, brown and serve. |festations are 8o different from what they have been that the world re- Tomatoes and Mushrooms. — Sclect (gards the existing young woman as eight medium-sized, smooth tomatoes.[an entirely new species that has ap- Cut a hole in the stem and scoop out |peared on the planet. Yet this new the insides. Chop ome onion fine, add | species wesrs white organdy, wide to it a tablespoon of butter and al-|trimmed hats. a fichu and & bouquet low to simmer slowly in a saucepar.|of field flowers. When colored a deen yellow. add six| 1t may be that in the age that fol- mock OVERBLOUSE OF RED TAFFETA STITCHED WITH BLUE AT THE EDGES AND FASTENED WITH BLUE BUTTONS. THE HIGH COL- LAR CAN BE TURNED BACK TO While it is_true that the sale of | appreciation of the separate blouse. i ! 4 | There are certain types to l_’P worn chain stitchery including many pieces| with suits by those who insist upon made of deep cr | Yaking off their coats, using them as B croam bstsiajicovered ® wraps to be removed indoors, i and these go over the skirt and not It is unusual for a woman to wear | under it. There as other types, and a whole shirt waist under a coat when | they are more frequent. which are These teeters are painted in bright | They cost a good dehl, of course. One | Z16FC ITGIEEE 2X8 Ped with a spring made on a piatform that keeps|in the middle, so that the teetering There are rustic chairs and benches side by [both for children and for grown-ups pe of hammock is quite|that may be made to furnish the gar- e. It is quite possi- ic bench and w tree as cretonnes as well as in plain, heavy|a foundation, Lo make a charming lit- for the garden, pessons than lying down in a ham-|too; made of green or brown bamboo mock, that it has many devotees.|or slats, on frames heavy enough to This sort costs variously, according|withstand light breezes. These may For children there are little wooden | Those iron tables that are sold for two small| the garden, under big umbrellas. are children—for about $7. They may be! fitted now with covers to match the [ UsHROOM SOUP.—Clean half a| With bread crumbs and melted huhl of butter in a saucepan with an on-| as organdy was revived into modern | n i with a separate skirt. to the color fashions of twenty twenty but t of color and fabrics. as tight as corsets. 1t takes an effort on the part of an individual to get rid of red this sea- son. The dressmakers have gone wild about it. They are aided and abetted by the milliners. The, people who manufacture blouses are the ones who could really use this color to the best advantage. .There is a smart overblouse of ori- ental red slightly gathered into the waist line at the sides in order that it will not present the tight flattened line across the diaphragm that only the slim can tolerate. It is stitched Wwith blue at its edges and fastened with blue buttons. There is a small guimpe which shows when the high, wide collar is unfastened and thrown back. women of the Bourbon court. [LARGE WHITE ORG { WITH FLARING 1 MATERIAL WHIT! FICHU OVER PRIN' ORGANDY D CHIFFON. in exa were,” suid Punch. All of which is a philosophical and historical treatise bevond the value of white organdy. Maybe it is. Yet ithe students of fashions believe that fashion is the moral and mental re- action of the human race to every- thing that happens to it. mot alone faghions in clothes, but also in man- n he fact is that organdy has fallen like a meteoric_shower on the face of the earth. Despite the fact that in the long run it is the most costly and extravagant summer fabric, it freshness and beauty persuade every- one to use it. It is linked up with Iserge, taffeta, crepe and satin. It is built into hats, into neckwear. es- peciaily into the broad fichu which is irevived from Martha Washington's The sketch shows a girl gowned jin organdy for a wedding. The huge hat has a huge bow at the side, of the material. The frock is of printed chiffon with flowers of blue. yellow and black, and the neckpiece is of white organdy as precisely folded as Beau Brummell's collar. No generstion needs the warning that one must bring to the care of organdy the devotion and precision of that gay fashion leader who was the friend of the Prince of Wales. It takes time out of one's life to wear organdy. But that it will be worn is a settled subject. Fringe Trimming. The newest wraps and dresses are iberally edged or covered with fringes varying in width from one inch to eighteen inches. ,Some are knotted and some are not. but they either harmomnize with a gown in color or are black. wit zray dress or Lrow: la tan swrap. The bright-co fringes and rainbow effects arc sed in|organdy and .blue sashes with un-|on the ribbon sasnes which decorate|and Mrs. Johneen:have passed meaciy. The very slim can obviate this condi- water and then pressed nearly dry.!trammeled flappers, with girls in knee | many of the strect dresses and suits. | forty years w‘.m.:. frankly intended to be used to build up a complete costume by alliance In such blouses there is a return ears ago. They are not boned and they are without lining, which is a species of informality that the woman of ars ago knew nothing about, ¥ are unlicensed in the choice These new ones go over the skirt and go over the corset cover and have about as much stiffness as an army shirt, whereas the old ones, al- though they went over the skirt, were length skirts, smoking cigarettes in !pub)ir places, racing high-powered || machines through the public streets; i and saying things to men that might have brought to blush the French Fundamentals never change, but manners and morals change during There are surely the most attrac-|thrilling as the old board balanced and after every war. It is waste of | time for one generation to be shocked at another as each reacted to a war hink they didn't. Bur did. “Things are not as they said the old iady to Punch. “They never !time for public questions, all w { carefully an exception oc-|the sofies casionally such as a navy blue fringe; now fon fringe 0ala note to the rad | suit is morveleusly Lo HERE is another brilliant blouse - from France made of Chinese bro- cade worn with & blue suit. It is built to give the effect of a short tunic blouse and resembles a wail coat when it is worn under a jacke! The sleeves of it are blue georgette. This oriental idea of using wide square sleeves of a transparent col- ored material in & tunic blouse of varied coloring is good. Paris brought - it up from the orient and is making a feature of the fashion. It gives a tall woman a distinctly individual garment. The touch of red is shown in an- | other French blouse of red and white dotted georgette which carries the - newly revived fichu we have lifted . from the days of Martha Washington. “« This piece of meckwear is not espe- . clally easy to adjust and it is not al- ways becoming, but it is fashionable and one must reckon with it to the best of her ability. - When it comes to transparent blouses, organdie comes into its own It is offered in bright colors, esp cially in yellow, and it is often gi dled with black satin to give it Chinese brocade is - sometimes substituted. Public Eye Mrs. Hiram Johnson. BY MARGARET B. DOWNING. The senior senator from California |is one of the outstanding figures in official life, yet Mrs. Johnson is among the least known in the legislative . . | circle. Perhaps none draws so sharp {a line between public service and their own private affairs as Semator and Mrs. Johnson. They live in that picturesque old mansion beyond the village of Riverdale which one of the Lords Calvert bulit in the latter part - of the eighteenth century, and if -’ one wishes to see the stalwart leader '~ of progressivism at close range and to know his wife, a visit to this 7 country home will offer the oppor- tuni t may be prosaic and out of tune with the times,” remarked Mrs. John- son, “to talk about the pleasure of a garden and the happiness which Krowa out of one's home, but it is the paramount issue in my family and always has been. I have seen my husband throw off the most grinding worry with a spade and trowel, and en the hum of the lawn mower can work miracies for the nerves and toward clarifying the mind. NDY HAT! “This fire old mansion of the Cal- YW AT SIDE OF | verts has been a staff and a com- fort for us both, and the way we {haie studied old books on colonial : gardens in order to restore this ome on harmonious lines has made our the same fashion. They ! lives absolutely complete. Them the «. | searcih for furmiture which would fit into the spacious rooms was also !4 task of some duration, but entire- ly_satisfying. [ A well appointed home, a garden - |filled with flowers which brighten ithat home at leust ten months in this climate; spacc for the vegeta- i bles and herbs which are meedful- -~ for the kitchen—these things are worth the undivided attention of any’ -~ woman. If she can work out these details with perfection and yet have © - and good. But I am of Bacon's opinion. that tending & garden is the purest joy known to man, and, after that, a home, and is it not comforta- 1 bie when one's duty can fit in so ™" nicely with the idea of perfect hap- piness?” Senator and Mrs. Johmnson spend the entire year in the Riverdale ma. sion, with only such brief visits to California as may be Iimperative. Their servants have all come from.- their establishment in San Francisco, ., . for, like neariy all Culifornians, they claim the Chinese cook is the best =" in the world, and theirs is one of ° the most taiented in the line. Within ., the home Senator Johnson ccases to - be a poiitician and becomes the coun- try gentleman, with a strong dis- position to read in & quiet, candle- lighted library when it has become . too dark to use @ hoe or rake in w- his garden or to overlook the con- ¥ tents of his hotbeds in the winter. Mrs. Johnscn, essentially home lov- ing. and so from her earliest mar- ried vears. is an omniverous reader and of the' most conservative ideas ' There are few new books ~worth while which she cannot discuss. The library is the living room of the house and the most fraquented, after the dininz room. Mrs. Johnson ia - one who devotes hours to working out a color scheme for a dinner party, und. thouygh few of these bang are heard «f, they are numerous and tanned. - She will obtain effects with shades ard and oven the food will add armony. and the ro- different from | el by.ujterers. Senaioc.'. i those ex| e