Evening Star Newspaper, May 1, 1921, Page 79

) presented with a daring novelty in millinery they are alarmed and curi- s, or turn a cold shoulder and a de- cided negative. The latter women are for safety first. The former give tie milliner ‘a chance to enter into the that of per BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE. HE effort to show that women had eyes when they were out of the house did not win. The milliners thought better, evi- field in which she shine ! ; THE‘SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. C, MAY 1, 1921—PART 4. ‘Milliners of Spring Produce Hats L = RIMS Reach to the ——— . Eyebrc;w;. S;ys Anne Rittenhouse, the Fashion A\;th;);ity. w There Is No One Fashion in Shapes, Colors or Trimming—Lacquered Ribbon | That Hide the Hair and Eyes started this fashion before the war and it is, therefore, a revival. but one | which promises success. Frocks are trimmed with lacquered ribbons as well as hats and some of the big houses are using these waxed fabrics for thin summer gowns. Wax flowers are a commonplace of from the 1880 days when they put under glass cases and placed o the parior table they woul cut about fifty dollars from the pr! of a French hat-~that is. they should but they wouldn't Strunge how the sellers of goods argue that one pays for the materials used, then offer to furnish the materials and see what smart millinery. One feeis like look- ing in the attic for some left over suasion. “If you only knew how won- you look. vounger by ten so goes the shopworn phrase- The second type saves a mil- s time and talk. There is a third however, which is the delight of | those who design and build ap- dently, of their experiment in hats. This spring the eyes remain in eclipse. ‘Who frustrated the attempt of the up- tiited hat to show a brow, a fringe, a pair of perfect, or plucked eyebrows. happens. Not a price slides down | Used With Straw and Organdy—The Umbrella Hat Is a Novelty, But the Tricorne, n jall { the Mushroom and the English Garden Hat Remain in Style. - :. not(kno\hn to’r;:lmr};\zl Thh:r::“m{;..‘.m. She wants only the diverting. ! === rtance is a j f compelling. ol ol A ;i : d:wmnw:rd in front [ e Aoe o InE niage. ia|or_tabrie: but several of the Targe)brown; darle blus: ed and the paty ont. at as ¢ hrella s By ded for formal 2 o al s color have their followe 3 . shown to her. It does not go in thexhapes intended for fo w ong the m < ana public. for ¢ ficatiom. There are few shapes, | (very day and kept for the next sens | <\weeping lace veil brought about | colors sprinkicd all over the su {ace > . quite original und daring. that rise to (00 0 e With ANl the | through the Spanish development. and. of Am Proba the paim of H e Anat rise : pose " W & ; : voiL| vict o red for th Sebowsr el s Tur thaepiy | siliberation and knowiedse givon B | ORS S | Sra”h brivagance | summer W rer 105 priniGe i L A Kirkm into the air. One may say for the o artist to a tableau. It 1s 1TKe | T ot puts a fine black tulle Vil over out much juggling of softer tones to aurea. an H that they are the novelty of the sea- e eat s anithe eyes on a turban of glistening ' diminish its glare o suggest an umbrella: a modified Russian raw is no only medium for ught in a windstorm and | white fabric in a really They built ingw, also chop Kind ! *y o e suspeot. 1 cossack shape ) - : . 3 : jlefr i the gutier, one misht suspect | ORI G s turned toward straw | the oy Planning the Week’s Work. [ige o (00 0 the flaring ruffle atin aloft und ' as the actual spring approaches. and | T have been asked to plan abweekly Litile daughters * jaway from the brow, although the{ schedule for a family of five—father. Make own |-\..|‘ | eyebrows are securely hidden, & trick mother, daughter in high school, and (4TTY nut own bres which appears to be the first duty Voy ot ine A e oSS in e | A i n ! every respectable hat. Continuing i ! pers eac almost disreputable rankishn thers | mar school. Here it is: cleaning bedroom 1= a broad and straggiing feather run | | Mother's Dally Program: Get break- Stance o through the brim to dart downward | S s ather's daily p toward the shoulder. To the amateur fast. Do ordering. when necessary. by the furnace. (pheep this hat may »m an impossibility. | telephone. Run over dining room with|as painting and or | Not so. Tt worn in Paris by smart | vacuum cleaner (a vacuum cleaner in :::'"" in Subue women who are inii & it over lere. R A% 15 B ASOIEY T oottty (o] Tk hamotost. homes. e, Hose ¥ ¥k x all boys love to run them—where they | which v member of the fumily o ie: vilization 2% g | feeis a personal responwibiiity for thu T”l anclent (eradle of pivi] is! would ““r!' &, Byooms and the hny,lhnmr Such tasks as | have outlined still_rocks the fashions of this program. given below, hangs upon his:ror tha children of the faminy wil jwillingness to use thisx mechanical| give these children exc dis spring. The fantastic earring of shell or crystals is only occasionally worn. ey put on so clothes, the pointed petal overlapping, is shown on a few new hats as a special feature. There is one hat of blue taffeta built into a' draped crown which has a brim and tation which the many of their device). Dust, Wagh breakfast di Do special ‘work for this particular | Thursday, cleaning of some upstairs rooms; on Friday. cleaning of. Kitchen; on Saturday, baking again). After do-| ing this special work she prepares the noon dinner. After it. she washes the | (such as bundling pline, a deeper and un easier | the kind attached to the under part) day (that is, on Monday the “spectal!that they are not | of the brim, but that type of ornamen- work” will be washing: on Tuesday,|fall on mother. I su that when iroping; on Wednesday. baking: on'ihere are any extra t to be done up old n for the junkman. for instanc tasks be written upon a s'ip and pinned up in some spol in the dining room. where must al a wide peacock flare at the back of dishes. Then she rests, roads, makes |congregate daily) xo that the famiiy | pointed quills overlapping. i calls, goes Shopping, or to the “mov- | May &ce them: when some vne of the It the huge black hat described ies"—anything but work. for she|family voluntiers to perform one of : above suggests an umbrella caught in | needs this period of recreation. She|these extra tuwks, he or xhe will {a windstorm. this blue hat makes one gets the supper only four evenings scratch it off the with # pencil think of a chicken blown by the wind 4 week—on Monday, Wednesday, Fri-| In this way the members of the fum- e not nearly so bad day and Saturday. On Sunday they|ily will find themselves bocoming et | son The right wo {have a “cafeteria” supper. at which thusiastic about having an cfficientiy | n with grace and d everybody helps himself to foods from | #un home and will fecl tiat it is wl | give a pleasant fillip to the seas the pantry. sort of happ: ame. rather than LAR HAT OF TAFFETA,| i be alarmed by Citer £ A8 Y TA, need be narml LA Elder daughter's dail program:|succession of irksome duties, SOFTLY SWATHED WITH RIBBON, 0 of 8 few startling hate. | Run over living room with vacuum S eA WHICH FAELS I% A LON pler that will} cleaner before breakfast or just be . e e Y Wi T woman. fore starting to high school. Dust : STREAMER TO THE SHOULDER. S ok as she wishes :hh:-' ‘:&n! ¥lke own bed. On Tuesday and The Sprmg Colors. ) ’ . color of costume s hursday evening, get e d #on in a spring that is singularly void | She can find as varied kings ! : i o B0 LAUPDSE . Al e — S of originality and full of much beauty.|of ornamentation as pebbles on the fash dishes, helped by little sister. BY A RITTENHOLS This is comforting to the public. It is | beach. All was grist that came to the Kecp own clothes mended. On Satur- not disastrous 15 the trade. Sprin | m [ mesSErLIatioame to the ?'ai,:h mornings, clean own bedroom.| From tobacco to banana is a color and new hats gn together. One do ng plans for the spring out- Toon vacuum cleaner, and the bath-|gamut that possesses stronz fascini- Bot reason againal the extravigance “‘1‘?1[1 ;The shape calied mus h;::‘r:.;f Roy's Daily Program: Make own bed | 110N for those who determine what varm days make | atedly wide-brimmed hat is featured. :‘e_:m"‘e( Boing to school. Carry own!|we are to wear. There arc women ‘ e Nrioed TR T ween s Dreakfast dishes into Kitchen fromwno fervently object to elther shade dn,,‘,\r,?;w,%h o matke ones f.t“,lzhl;:l s & retrn in the ,,,)z,,_,‘,: i h)m.’ C"r);x:‘r:, cu:flrv;e{:::e::[-]:rm;:: L-“tci""'.; and all between. They have had a over fron nter to the begin- to the Russian headdress which 3 Ring of another autumn. but summer | often carries a dangling rhinestone in fAnge ::o.;‘ryma:r\'"n?nmnrzh;r“-cnnnl. dificult time thix last vear avoiding ns have a devastatin ect on the ! front. This ornament has becom 4 om an e halls with| what was the obvious fashion. frailties of aw and thin fabric, so|commonized by a variety of cheap vacuum cleaner on morn-| - xow they are fuced with the faet that econemy is a sad thing when it is | hats that the better-dressed woman = Y hre T4€ " practiced right here and now |avoids it. The Russian shape, how- PI L that al] these tan and brown tints are % % o % ever, minus the glitter of crystals. is leasant Livi to be continued in fashion despite the ever. m iving Room. v which they are out to buy a be- | the large hat which is usually spon- drawii 5 are, an obvious mistake in this partly wildering mass of uncarrelated hats. | Sored. = rawing room is a formidable, oiiq American summer climate. No one fashion or period exists, | The Chinese coolie hat is worn. It one and suggests a rather| No such criticlsm cin be made o Lo Se ke XSS, s trimmed with the black cherries cheerless, formal and imper-|against banana yelow or any of the atever struck the fancy of the de-! which are already as wearisome fo sonal place where for six month: |tan tints. They are too neutral (o be signer. that she designed and threw | the as the lilacs of last season, S OUt | rovoking. They peimit of Wany con- upon the market. This ix not caleu- | #lthough the latter as well the of the year the chairs are upholstered !irasting colors used ax washe: ini lated to stimulate a buyer; it is black fruit and magnolias continue to with hideous ticking cases, where the | collars, as sleeve facings and pane. lin to confuse her. The sheep-like quali- | be placed on hats that bring a high curtains are dr; 1 v 9 ty is still strong iff us when it comes | brice. So ubiquitous are the cherries awn for fear of allow- to clothes. The big majority prefer|that one milliner declares she will ing the sunshine to fade the carpet! to be shown or to be imitative. take her summer vacation in the mid- and where no one goes save on formal | Even the woman who wants to be | dle of the ocean. Another popular hat caile)or; whi i different does not have a serene morn- | that shows signs of weakening is the When a stately and pretentious | inz when choosing one hat from three | turban of draped crepe de chine which party is in progress. i dozen varying styles and colors., The the Paris woman wore in the winter In reality, |and which was sprung here in great | trom '"h’d SL o0ucar ithe wors ootiies) {quantities_as an excellent midseason i A e r Toom: and) i RS Ihat. It like silk fringe on frocks, the familyap Snate the soom whithet | \ has created rebellion among many of oy i .';“‘“:Il"’"!’:;;; e 3 peci ant in {»{amhond::‘: :;}nu n who thi 1 ACE for hats, as for frocks. shows town durir;‘g" dlh- ;murl vhl‘: the| When foreigners—as not infre- ?f lei-l""dl;"’rbfl:““"- but it was not wo hun ollars expended on ome | 1 A e - . R - y stre-ts are filled with women who are v — leavi ‘ormal and fo ing. . Eown needs a vear's cxplanation to no #igns of abating its popularity | ABOVE: BROWN STRAW WITH BROWN RIBBON, LINED WITH not out for pleasure. Bad taste. this, :fi:r'.minl‘"i’:l:.meull;:.‘eu::fs wealthy | " Nowadays, however, most Americans | the head of the house among those who stand for exclusive- | YELLOW. AT RIGHT: BLUE TAFFETA CROWN AND BRIM OF BLUE Nothing to excuse it. Americans are vulgar. it is because|do not use the name'for any of theiri When ceratin kinds of women are|ness. The lace veil is added to straw | QUILLS. Why the woman who cannot even|they have been entertained with over. | Fooms usually unless they have a rather ' afford a taxi should wear motor-|javishness. They have sat through |large house. If they have but one br; thirteen-course dinners. at which|two living rooms downstairs they . over the seas. To such Americans corn on the cob is delectable only in|datc folk, just as the stiff. prosaic |mid-winter and strawberries and |room that bore the name has gone tomatoes are never worth eating save | OUl Of our scheme of things Really, en ihe Anom hies | drawing room as it was once used is 1" In England more than here it is|® Rood word, but, ax most persons un- considered absolutely ill-bred to|derstand it is e Dbit pretentious and the milliners and dressmakers. So far fashions are accepted, but prophets predict their dewnfall Horsehair is well liked. It is not new. Ig fact, nothing is new except some of the fancy straws, but it is a novel touch to trim transparent hats with lacquered ribbon, which is done in France. Satin retains a certain dis- | tinguished place despite the fact that it has gone in and out of fashion. Al- though there is no sign of velvet com- ing into the limelight vet, as the fash- ionables ait until the hottest month |of summer. August. to appear in such warm headgear, there is a renewed | interest in felt. both all . § | This fapric is not intended for {like the idem of being sober and | dle states and the south shortly before | ‘ll‘.n"l; :\"::“:“('r 0ITA‘TA‘\DI\'I.'rr;::f\;ih:‘rlh:;ddemdr;ir‘l:'lzx and porous workaday, whatever the appatel me- | — - - - im: revolution of such drawing rooms NG DCARDE OF NAT-| t 3 it on dium through which the busy life of | THERE is but one step belween,;"’:d ole':::l h'::r:. ."l'hz.n.:lhe Innnd | the head all through the summer of the conference and reinstates it I now that summer approache: It is in trimmed with brightly colored wreaths of common garden fruit, espe cially the deep red raspberriex. White | | and gray are the colors chosen in the summer felts and brown and black are not in the running. To offset their warmth, they are often combined with straw. TIER BLU thing to do in this case, say voking _milliners, to buy hats. Such is the advice given millinery and dressmaking establish- ments this season. A leading dre. maker said that t on in that par- ticular house was ting because a class of women had come up as pur- chasers who hought only one frock. Such type of buying onsidered bad RIBBON. o e the * k k% { i t I | x | PINK SUED] knees, gray Suede pumps with straps, of | \ hroughout the day. | Those who live in great centers like | these | New York are devoutly thankful for| ny diversion from the mass of over- et places in the day. They rather a city is expressed. The homespun suit with the stitch- ed hat is a far better costume for the: woman who works for her livi hind £ be- desk or counter and for the woman who is driving through a long s hopping list than the wrapped satin ape, the fringed irt just hiding the the gray silk stockings and pieces costume which are flying about SPORT HAT. | growing fashion of wearing country|cially those of straw. clothes on the streets of big cities Patterned, ithe solid colors are pre- dressed women who throng the mar- | !an old-fashioned dinner and It is rarely ferred and there has arisen a desire on the part of milliners to lacquer accessories. Suzanne Talbot Simple Food the lavish and the contemptible. | To entertain our guests by.offering a bountiful repast is but a sign of hos- pitality, but to ask them to a table that groans under the weight of more food than could possibly be eaten at a meal, expensive flowers and priceless silver is to show ourselves lacking in £00d breeding. every dish offered was worth enough to feed a workingman's family for a week, and every dish that was not hothouse grown was imported from make a point of serving dishes out of season, and in this prejudice at least the English manner is better than ours. It took the European war and our entrance into it for American hostesses to learn that lavishness was | silly if not wicked. Already the results have heen ex- cellent. The many coursed dinned is entirely out of vogue. So. too. is the afternoon tea that is as bountiful as muc more elaborate. Well-bred hostesses are no longer serving bouillons, patties, salods. French pastries and ices at afternoon receptions. old England., where dinner was the great and usually only mocial event of the day. The diners went into the draw- ing room to enjoy each other's conver- sation and soeiety, to play games of cards, to sing. and idle away the even- ipg hours. It was there that guests drriving aftér dinner were welcomed Into the fatily group, there that court- ing was carried on and that politics were discussed. And it was a cheerful room, usually containing the most com- fortable chairs in the house. a checrful open fire and such musical instruments as_the house afforded. ‘We read in books on life in the mid- withdrew to the drawing room so that the servants could clear the table and get the dining room ready for supper at 7 or 8 o'clock. Then among per- sons of wealth when one entertained cluded supper usually and the inter- vening hours in the drawing room. So. in reality, the drawing room was noth- ing more nor less than the afterncon sitting room. To be sure, it was a room {a guest for dinner the invitation in-: usually call one the living room, and the other reception room, lounge, music room, book room. or smoking room, as ithe case may be. The word ‘“parior” | has gone out completely among up-to- for that reason f: is better not to use it save where have a large and formal house. To most of us W is used most fittingly when applied to such a room as the |blue drawing ron.m in the White House —a formal. stately room used only for formal entertainments and not in the old sense a drawing room at all. It you still have a formal parlor twice a year and the hour or so after dinner when you give what you call a dinner party—don't forget that it | should be aired and allowed sunlight in your house—a room dedicated to| | formal calls, daughter's suitors, card | | parties, the minister when he comes i MORNING FROCK FOR SUMMER Of YELLOW CREPE DE CHINE WITH | WIDE SASH TO MATCH. THE | SKIRT SHOWS THE NOVELTY OF A PERSIAN TUNIC. THE SAILOR HAT IS BROWN TO MATCH THE SHOE ! ings, the same being the way and man- ner in which these contrasts are ob- tained this season. Even so. there are women who re ject any color combination with these tan or brown tones. They build np not only one, but a xeriex o7 cotun in which various shades of tie-é col- . jis well as any other room in your| gt Ny loretner. Such costun Oriental Designs GUSe. & have only a small house|in skelched today ms it was worn i3 ! don't waste one whole room in this|One who knows the businesx of dress. In the New Silks The patterns in the new oriental silk dress goods are odd and daring, representing large designs of the Sphynx. EFyptian heads, vultures, with hieroglyphical signs in a long shaped medallion in bright colors on & na- tural shantung silk ground, the typi- cal Egyptian vulture wing and other fantastical designs. The Persian designs are of a com- plicated variety, mostly with a trellis background in'reds with yellow ram- pant leopards or trelliswork designs in blues, white and blacks. Other de- way. lonc used every day for the -family | !social hours together. It is looked| lupon as just a little old-fashioned and bourgeois for persons in mod- | erate circumstances to Keep up the traditions of such a room. Daughter's ! suitors should be received in the fam- | ily circle when they call. if they call in the evening, or with the mother of | | the house if they call in the afternoon |ana mother happens to be at leisure. If you have an upstairs 1iving room besides. this may suitably be kept for | what the English call a morning room, | a room where the occupations of the morning take place. It proerly econ-| Make it into a true living room, | ‘the xide, ing. The frock isx of yellow cre,e u¢ chine cut with a full tunic, which Is ! unusual, the bodice Is slight ¥ surpiice = xoft and clinzinz, tied al the sleeves bell ou at the opening. the collar rolls hizh and uj- ward. 8o far, not a wisp of other fub- ' ric has been used. But the brown hut the beige stockings and the brown shoes give a4 dark whudow over the pale yellow tones which is quite effective and desirable. The French women are the sash wearing light hats with dark frocks and the is other way around: the fushion slowly spreading here. They ure viving the felt hut for midsenwon wear. tains a desk and a lounge, easy chairs, | also, and they give bright contrasting sewing tables and baskets and plenty . colors to the rest of the costume by 1 signs show T There Ix a strong fecling for the color. clothes in the streets is an unsolved [ and yallow 'birds in various cojor |of sunshine. It Is essentially & room | the wreath of fruil or fowcrs abui: | and the fact that hot weather makes | American soeial problem. schemes. dedicated (o the woman members of: the crown, s | reaiionts x| A _number of Chines i the house, just as the lounge—if you s millinery fashion was run to tter does not bother those * x ok *x Chinese designs are living room called by that)ground during the peace confeience | who follow fashion.. JOSSIBLY there is a rebellion by the seen in shantung and such shades ilk in natural color s old rose. These have a ame—is a room whither the men of our family can withdraw to smoke summer, and one s given to won.er j thut =0 many of the fashions of that The silk hats which are without or- conservative part of communities,| are mostly printed with Chinese | namentation except for folds of the & feeling that this foolishness must | SCript in bright contrasting colors. A |and talk together alone. ) eventful time should be reyived for | stop somewhere. The right women| ¥ Shantung silks in their natural| Afterncon tea, if you aspife to it is|1921. = There's fringe. and Spanisi | 4 ® rigl €N color are ornamented with large con- | served in the living room. or drawing ' shawls, and felt hats, the Greciun | fabric or intricate lines of stitchery | have rolling brims, following an old | are appearing In severe clothes, what- | ventional flowers with black petals |room, or wheréver you and your neckline, the Spanish hoop at the hips. fashion. and are worn along with < | | ever the reason. Homespun, sturdy|and green, white and orange or deep | guests happen to be seated when 4!fringed monkev “ur. white crepe de chine frocks with red | “H0r 0 B0 nte 1" demury|Fed. White and bius combinations. A |o'clock comes. 'But it ia not in ood | It In as thoug: France were ir s X er belts. They are|p 3 d large sunflower design appears among | form to have a tea table set up inito stamp upon our minds the tri also added to peppermint stripe silk)shapes, wash blouses with lingerie|this eollection. any living room containing teacups ' ef Versailles and gingham gowns which are with- out trimming. It is quite the fashion to employ these red tones. So easily does the tendency of mil- itnery go toward red in some form. that dark flowers are brushed with it coarse straws have o red thread run ning through the somber or burnish- frills and heavy gloves are the high spots in the crowd In the streets. It 1s this fashion that has brought about a deand for a certain kind of hat that once was relegated to the broad A variety of medallion designs is seen among the black taffetas, and brightly colored landscapes, together with pagodas with bright red roofs, and elephants embroidered in maroon with red trappings. Among the black and dark blue highway and the wooded lane. Some satins some large conventiopal frult and There is dae- signers in the revival of the shortened tunic. for it is thrown out aguinst the nterest among and other tea accessories. These are properly brought from the kitchen or, pantry on a large tray or tea wagon | at tea time. A convenient table for the tea tray or a nest of tabl which when set out provide little stands for each tea drinker, may be left in the living room. but they should be free | Egyptian panels and Spun.sh points as a revolutionary chunge. It is:uite different from the contour we i laccepted. Maybe it is the new Maybe .we are to be Persian instead nx. o hetwork, black velvet punsies andfof them are in pinked flannel, some- !':".:""::litz:l“lnc;vl-;:flllw:shl:ahlho‘m from tea accessories. of Bgyptian,: Well, that would be [outer rim of the petals Is traced with thing that Is new. Others are in taf-|proidered dragonfly design on brack soft keebing """““h‘""" histor h"" i country overthrew ther a: . it. It s not an eaxy celor for the average woman to wear, but she will attempt 11, probably, when she finds out that {t is the fashion of the sea- won, Those whe divide dress Into compo- feta held down to flatness by Intricate stitchery in the same or an opposing color; thers is often a rakish bow of ribbon at ene alde. The milliners haye not done with satin is very effective. On a silk crepe there is a striking design representing a wide-spreading tree in black, inserted In. & medallion on a ground of light tange, Among the taffetas are broad plaids) Sponge Cake. Beat the yolke of five eggs until they are creamy, add a cup of sugar wgradually, beating all the time Then add the juice and rind of half|as Chinese. brought its own Whatever clse we siem to b, are still in the grip of the = lands. We may as well b ‘We threaten to be both “w \ THE NOVELTY OF THE SEASON IS A HAT WHICH LOOKS LIKE A¥ UMBRFLLA CATGHT IN A WINDSToRM.| "¢"t Paris &1d do not let one style of | the primitive edornment of ribbon.|and stripes in graduated shades of |a lemon and a pinch of sait. ~ Then|during the summer. which is a good a AN 2 )costume end-oach upon another arelThey have used it in beguiling man:|erange on black, blus on fold in five whites of egg, beaten dry,season of the year to ad leepy. IT 1S OF BLACK SATIN HELD UPWARD BY THIN WIRES, A FEATHER 1S RUN THOUGH THE BRIM. rather shocKyd and perturbed aL the ner on a varieiw of their hats, espe- .uau!.llriklnt combinations, Backrand) on 1618 in & cup of ok it fonr: Y lian o,un‘:l'fl’"“‘,'m;'y.' opt. sieepy i d