Evening Star Newspaper, April 10, 1921, Page 64

6 THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. C. APRIL 10, 1921—PART & French Dressmakers Making Strong e Effort to Establish Long Skirts| Furniture plays a prominent part in The Quest for Details| Today—Gowns Sent Qut by the Paris Designers—Will the Women Accept Black?, The Revival of Fringe». A Season of Organdy. | - BY ANME RITTENHOUSE. LOTHES have subtly changed It is easy to say that the| conteur of clothes has mot changed. This statement finds a complicated explanation Well the contour has not changed. It h emed as fixed for the last| three vears as the war of the trenches was between offensives The begin- ning and end of comment concernin the new spring apparel is that dre; courage to makers have not had insist upon w revolution So far Yet, here fact. The F abundoned 1. It is slen outstanding have | 1S | It i stered fiber suite, $165 Large 78-inch davenport, chair and rocker with loose transparent. It for the l,::; .-;”,“1' tashiancd (3¢ spring cushions filled with resilient coil springs. Upholstered Shartling effect in street clot ws. in < e Q) . in attractive tapestry. starting P 1o sirect ot o5 12 This massive bedroom suite $139 their street the smart set longer than they skirts_ten A carefully finished mahogany suite in most effective design. Included are a large Choice of this thé p;.;;-\v (‘.—:;‘ \V.C.uf(;?nt':rrl: dresser, chiffonier with generous size mirror. triple mirror toilet table and double wood us'mere_excrescences on bed. Each may be bought separately; the bed, $30; the dresser, $41.50; the chiffonier, wardrobe or hion have method They could ham i $33.50, and the toilet table, $30. kitchen cupboard $l 5.85 The wardrobe substan- tially built of solid oak with two doors. The cupboard has a two- door glass cabinet top, with drawer and cupboard base. ecms to the reporter of fa his obstinacy in the cho: skirt for th on the. ew powerful n .Im.,\f and de should be accepted as significant * x % * The American public rebels against the idea of wearing such skirts as have been produced by these French dressmaker. It does mot object tol tne widing of hem as much as it does the lenstn Lo realizes luac @ pa cred skirt reachiig Lo lue ankies i3 apt lu acceniuate age. ‘Tnere 18 no aoubt, however, thal the woria has been ireated o a mockery of age auu bas witnessed cruel _indignation Heaped upon maturily through the meutum ol no-ienxth skiris, nigh- lecica shoes and painted faces. ‘Lne lonate desire Lo appear YOung is i ) hl & il This 4-Piece Cane Suite, $237 A beautiful period suite consisting of 78-inch davenport, large fireside chair and rocker. All have spring seats upholstered in blue velour. Choice of either rocker pa: often an insull to nature. : Is 1t not saner, wiser and kinder to iritual rather than physical special Jubilee prices. outh and to look dignificd in a long -' / Skirt rather than grotesque in a short %Y, Y7 f; ‘N%%% ° 4 7 one? = A Y 0 7 Why not insist upon dividing the A 244/ 7 7 span of life into three proper sec- . %% V) A e O O Y e Tremendous Jubilee Sale D G ) hever overdoin ; ? % / 7, age? & 41 o 2 For whoever searches | focu it tnore Capitol B d Matt .;:, c, 21///////////////,;;. 4 racious Compre b ! S\ = T Y o - 7 e ihe finding of this compromise | PREWET MODEL OF BROWN TAFFETA WITH LONG SLEEVES AND a[)l o rana Matiresses 5% o7 'WEX‘ ’, Z? = %Z/,fif and exvll?;‘unsfl;tdr\::;:d ‘avr;::.;k the BACK OF BODICE OF BROWN EMBROIDERED NET. gé QW’Z ;l N IS 718 ?:; genius of the = " : s . e 28 7! The tendency of skirt generalities ! The entire line of 2?’/7/7///—////////////////"5 ?////////////;y///////////////;% L are better, however, for midseason |are typically Spanish and therefore|other forms of needlework tham em- | these nationally 1 & %% % f %544 than for the high apex of a rush s€a- |they have coquetry. The smart wom- | broidery. i Lk i i % L 7 7 s % %7 son. Women want details today. They |an wears them to any afternoon func- | They should have a national mint | nown mattresses 1s ;4 % 7 2/ 74 could gather up these details and |tion, dropping them to show a Greek | to turn out the paillettes for the sea- marked at i sorrri i 7V %, 2 N N choose between them later on. The ineckline and half uncovered arms. son. Some extravagant person will outstanding fact to & reporter, &8 1|When the gown serves for the even- take to sewing nickels on her gown. said before, is the persistence of the |ing there are no sleeves. This type of long full skirt. Its fullness must be |evening frock is considered ultra modined before the garment is gen- |smart. At the ball given by Mr. and erally accepted, but there is a belief | Mrs. McLean the night of President among all those who deal with clothes [ Harding's inauguration, Mrs. McLean that long skirts for evening and [wore such a gown of lusterless white longer skirts for the street Wil belchiffon. It made an admirable back- Aveepted without a murmur before |ground for the blue Hope diamond. fhe spring leaves are dead. Against!6Mra Nicholas Longworth also wore at the lengthening of the skirt by some |that ball a gown of equal simplicity. Qressmakers there is to be the ob- |with high decolletage, of dull green stinacy of maintaining the short |and gold brocade. Skirt of other builders. This shows| Itisa wise and economic fashion for | the same disparity in clothes that has |the Bix months of American warm nee 1914, The evening skirt | weather. \ Mahogany finish frames. | A Both have spring seats uphol- stered in colorful tapestry. We instance three of the most outstand- ing values— This fiber reed rocker— Wing-back rocker, finished in dark Baronial brown, with loose spring cushion seat and back upholstered in high - grade tapestry, 529'75 Chair to match, $29.75. HOME ECONOMICS. BY MRS. ELIZABETH KENT. Good Housekeeping Institute has tested and approved the Kapoc silk floss, $11.95 Layer felt, $8.45 All-cotton, c eps the ankle and is drawn upward over the hips or hangs with a flat panel effect is featured in a Wway that makes one gasp. Modesty allied to the indecorum is the verdict. cut like a menuine chemise. rounded upward at each side. leaving an open- ing that easily displays the knees. To this is annexed a flat ruffie of thin lace. Over this is placed a chemise frock of jet lace and net _As the manikin wears flesh-colored slippers and stockings, there is no attempt A curious touch in the spring fash- ions which has puzzled the reporter is a revival of fringe. It falls over all frocks like a cascade of water. It is rarely used in straight formation on| One gown has a black silk foundation |5 gkirt, but dash about in a hectic way over the skirt and bodice. It is probably revived through the insist- ent Spanish influence on costumery. The huge Spanish comb has come back. Certain French women have even adopted the white stockings with the flat black pumps of Spanish men whatever to disguise the brevity of |[and women. The new type kind of the black silk chemise, and yet the skirt is long enough to reach the ankles. * % * % There is another gown. this one by Vionnet. This French designer, who has become a feature of trade, has tuilt a gown of Spanish vellow crems de chine, citron, which has the green shades of an unripe lemon The bodice runs to points at the shoulders and the skirt runs to points which sweep the feet. All the edges are deeply fringed. It has points which fall together as the wearer stands, swinging apart as the wearer walks, and one sees yellow stockings turning shapely knees. They glimpse in and out. True, this is oriental cqquetry In sharp con- trast to the indecorous modesty of these frocks there are two gowns by Worth which stabilize the long skirt for evening. He nai one of these long-skirted Zow: Femme a la Rose” Those who have fol- 1 d the French plavs know that name was suggested by the play the hour in Paris, “L'Homme a la 1t of bhlack lace, full-skirt- over the hips, transparent inz over the ankles. The cee reaches to the collar- hen drops to the decolletage hes to the waist at the back ict rose i at the side. sther gown makes a strong ap- » Americans. It is of a dead Wiack erepe, the kind used for mourn- It i Roman in its severe the high severity of its There are no sleeves. What » there is is de@ned above Ly drapery. The sKirt floor at the back and he ankles in front is caught at one side 5 were hion a year aft- dized it. The ver here. the faintest crown of skirt the not broken except by a Is or white ivory beads ve color to are gray. beige or siippers ck gowns fternoon and evening hem with gowns of black the madels which are to be The afternoon gown which serves r the evening i being accepted by \merica after it has beld sway in France for four vears. These little Liack shawls are nat Victorian. They action in | tringe is made of lace, also of monkey fur and of cassowary feathers. One unique frock is of white chiffon with tiny spurts of black monkey fringe headed by triangles of jet. These cover the frock and from a distance the gown looks as though it were built of super-fine ermine. The pointed shaw which is the eve- ning wrap of the hour is always edged with deep knotted silk fringe. The transparent net skirts over which evening gowns are built are edged with gold or silver fringe. Ome did not expect to see so quick a return of this fashion of 1918. It may not be generally accepted in America. Few, if any, American de- signed gowns show it but as the French output exhibits the lavish use of it, it is ten to one that we will wear it. Probably the mewest form of this fringe is of ribbon. The dead black crepe de chine frock will have its skirt tufted with bunches of black grosgrain ribbon. These bunches wild run in symmetrical formation. They ere nmot haphazard * % ¥ ¥ The American looks a bit askance at a generous use of organdie. We know the heat of our summers. We know the price of our laundries. We say of organdic as one of Craigie's heroes said of bridge—"Life had im- posed enough problems on him with- out bridge.” The novel way in which the new spring gowns employ organdie is to put it as godets in a dark cloth sKirt. Surely thig is an extravagant method of using the fabric. But the dress- makers gay it gives little trouble. There is one frock of dark blue twill, in the skirt of which fullness is ob- tained by godets of kings blue or- gandie covered with a fine de: black soutache. This is repea the neck and sleeves There is another costume which consists of a_redingote of dark blue cloth trimmed on each side with ap- plications of black taffeta. Beneath it is an entire frock of white or- gandie also_covered with the scrolls of taffeta. You maust admit tbat this is a curious gown. Thoss .¥ho are insisting upon figured f=orics won- der why it is that the dressmakers have taken up plain fabrics and put their own figurations upon them with ingnite \ahor. Embroidery is a sec- Ymradn<g’ fashion, but fringe. sou- taching. scrolls of applied fabric and round paillettes in net. silk or chif- fon dominate spring frocks Renee uses a kind of leaf, of a material cire on one side, which curls over on itself and is used with the generosity of the leaves of Val- ambrosa. When Renee gets tired of her pail- lettes which she uses in colors in black and white, in straight forma- tions, just as she used chenille dots in 1918, she uses bands and rosettes of these tightly curled petals. They have no luster on one side and high luster on the other. It is a wonderful season for the handworker who likes to dabble in {the needs of the expanding library Bookcases. In a rented house one hesitates to be at the expense of building in book shelves, to be left in the house when one goes. Sectional book shelves or bookcases, which one can take away, seem more satisfactory. The sectional bookcases have certainly come to stay. No method 50 good of keeping books safe from damp and dust with such convenient possibilities in wood, style, size and height has yet been devised. As they are furnished in units, that is, single shelves which may be added one to another, as need arises, until | a large case is secured, they meet and are altogether neat, convenient and suitable to any purpose. Sec- tional bookcases should be bought to | accord in wood and style with the other furniture in the room or may be chosen especially to match the woodwork Many people think that books should not be covered with glass, but should stand on open shelves. It is a matter of personal preference, but certainly valuable books should be protected, and dust very soon renders 4 good binding dull and ¢ has still a wide range the chief points to be being simplicity of line, of wood z ¢ deep and offer a the unfortunate pos- push the books for- shell where present an even v likely to cause the forward at the least s ar from behind or even from the side, or she may push them back to the full depth of the shelf to secure the proper balance of the case, but leave a wide space In front to catch the dust, while the books themselves look rather lost. (Copyright, 1921.) Broiled Finnan Haddie. Soak for an hour in cold water, then the fish in a sieve and pour boiling water over. Drain and dry on a paper towel. Rub with melted butter, to which a few drops of lemon julce have b 1 HBroil over a hot fire for n minutes, turning . fre- Serve hot with a border of n peas. . —_—_— The train that hangs anywhere ex- cepting where one would expect to find it is in great vogue. Often there are two trains to an elaborate e ing frock, one at each side, hanging €@own over each hip. Sometimes these are formed by tying folds of the fab- ric of the gown that cross from the shoulders back and fronot This upholstered rock- er—Of durable fiber reed, for with Baronial brown finish. Fitted with cushion over spring seat... $l4‘75 Chair to-match also $14.75. dash and windshield. Finished in 521.75 gray enamel, hanging. Finished fumed oak, loose spring oil stoves 3-burner cook stove, $25. fireless cooker This go-cart—Of reed, with full roll on hood and complete with This $875 dining room chair of quar- tered oak, with slipseats of brown muleskin. Quite a2 num- ber. (BYY 2 in period design, with long yo‘:x wb!’aet z pier glass and $4.38 This porch swing— With folding back and com- plete with all the fixtures " $2.95 New Perfection 2-burner cook stove, $18.50. 4-burner cook stove, $3L50. 4-burner cook stove with combined, This walnut vanity dresser—48 inches wide and e = §97.50 This Gunn bookcase— Four book sections (two 9- insh, two 1l-inch), top and base. Finished o, 5014 $29.75 This green lawn bench —Strongly built, with bent This [/covered with brown denim— $9.85 Bar Harbor Chair Cushion, $1.85 made with 2¥- Well inch boxing. Choice of several attractive cre- tonne coverings. Bohn Syphon Refrigerator (Seamless porcelain lined) OOD Housekeeping approves G only such products as meet its high standards and ex- acting tests. Bohn Syphon is not the only re- frigerator approved by Good House- keeping, but it is the refrigerator that scored the highest number of points. In other words, Good Housekeeping practically admits that Bohn Syphon is the best refrigerator made, and we shall be glad to show you why in detail. This Bohn Syphon refrigerator, $119 As illustrated, a large three-door, front icing model, complete wilth_the Bohn syphon system of circulation and Flaxlinum in- sulation. Bohn Sanitor refrigerators, $55 . A splendid porcelain-lined model with three doors and in front icing style. Sani-cold refrigerators, $14.75 A top-icing model with 30-pound capacity. Sani-cold refrigerators, $24.75 A front-icing model with three doors. One big sale of $17.95 to $21.50 RUGS 9x12 rattania rugs ] 9x12 Cherokee rugs 9x12 Domus rugs $ 1 '90 9x12 wool and fiber rugs 8.3x10.6 Cherokee rugs J Fiber and wool-and-fiber rugs. Serviceable, sanitary rugs that will wash and wear and clean as easily as a parquet floor. 9x12 congoleum rugs, $8.95 Perfect quality Gold Seal Congoleum rugs—in splendid range of patterns. Made with one seam down the center. 9x12 velvet rugs, $32.50 Seamless rugs in small, all-over and medallion patterns. Ab- solutely perfect and formerly selling at $54. 9x12 Axminster rugs, $36.50 Just 12 rugs left—most of them in 9x12 size and offering pleas- ing -color choice. All perfect and formerly selling from $54 to $69. 9x12 all-fiber rugs, $11.90 All new patterns—and there is still good choice. Perfect rugs that give unlimited service and are attractive as well. 9x12 grass rugs, $13.75 Splendidly made grass rugs, in good-looking carpet patterns that have proved extremely popular, Size 9x12. 5 E o — (Rugs, fourth ficer) Y