Evening Star Newspaper, March 27, 1921, Page 62

L& g ™ New Spring and Summer Frocks a Wide | Variety of Line and Color C()mbinations§ The Afternoon Frocks Produced by Paris Dressmakers. Spanish Inspiration. The Things That Count—qusets Ef- face Themselves. The Extreme Sil- houette. BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE. N the afternoon frocks shown by Molyneux and other important ¥rench dressmakers some of the skirts were quite, if not nearly, as short as those shown and worn a season ago. Yet some of Molyneux's draped skirts almost touched the floor. Lelong showed much longer skirgs and so did Paquin and a dozen others. Callot showed skirts of all Jengths, but many that are really short. Skirts are full Tow, they and skirts are nar- shirred up on the hips, or draped in one-sided effect. They are straight gathered., some- times with erinolines at the hips and sometimes with cording at the hem to make them stand out. They have panniers to add width at the hip and again they hang sheathlike at the sides. Sleeves are short. full and long, ‘wide and scant, puffed or corded and here and there is a sleeve that hangs to the shoulder by a thread of beads or«a ribbon. Collars are sometimes absent. There are frills at the back of stiffened lace suggestive of the Tuff and there are collars that are as high at the front as at the back, com- Ppletely eclipsing the chin. * % % % ‘The Madeleines are making much of a silhouette that shows a waist line unbroken from the arms to a point almost to the knees. The low placing of the girdle is everywhere noted and yet there are those who look for the return of the high waist of the directoire. Paquin and Patou are pushing the circular skirt, while a good many of the other French dressmakers will have none of it. Plaited skirts per- sist here, and there they have disap- peared. Spanish fashions have been hover- ing about in the wings of the stage are THE DRAPED HIP SILHOUETTE IS WORKED OUT IN THIS FROCK WITH EMERALD GREEN SATIN, A AT THE SHOULDER AND HIP WITH RHINESTONE ORNAMENT. PANEL IS LINED WITH SILVER of fashion for so many seasons that we have grown quite accustomed 1o the prediction twice a year that Span- ish styles are coming. This spring many of the French dressmakers called upon Spanish modes for in- spiration in the clothes they showed at their openings. And those who like to find analogies in dress and like to see history repeat itself wery pre- cisely in fashions saw a cemnection between the second empire tendency and the revived Spanish. Was not the Empress Eugenie—who 1s given perhaps more credit for originating fashions in the second empire than she deserves—a Spaniard? And did she not introduce the Spanish man- tild and show the French women how coquettishly to wear & lace sbawlZ There the stress is 1aid on mnine- teenth-century Spanish costumes. It is seventeenth-century Spanisi cos- tumes that seem to be focwding at- tention in Paris at the present, and it is to Spain at that period that Parisians go to get their inspiration for carnival and fete costumes at the moment. * kX ¥ * Of course, the reason for this is the Povularity of the play, “L’'Homme a Ja Rose,” laid in Spain of the sev- enteenth century. Paul Pdiret did the costumes, which led many admir- ers of Ppiret's art to expect that he would provide the impetus, in his spring opening, needed to push Span- jsh costumes at last out of the wings jnto the limelight. But Poiret didn't feature Spanish costumes—at leut‘ no more than he did Jeanne d'Arc costumes or those of the time of Henry IV _or half a dozen other periods. Possibly he judged the woman of the twentieth century bet- ter than she judges herself. It is a popular notion—at the moment—to Teel that you ‘would look especially charming in Spanish clothes. Nine young women out of ten, blonde or brunette, fat or thin, tall or short. whatever their ty believe that there is something about their own particular charm that only needs a Jace mantilla and a swaying Spanish skirt to produce an effect positively irresistible. As a matter of fact, the Spanish dress is not easy to wear. It is| suited to the women south of lhe; Pyrenees. women whom Ibanez speaks of as angular Venuses. It requires a sort of characteristic Spanish angu- larity that is at the same time virile. and that French women certainly do | not possess. i So perhaps Paul Poiret was right.| He knew the peculiar charm of Span- | j=h costumery, but he also knew the twentieth century woman. You have heard it until vou are weary—until it is meaningless—but it i= well worth while just now to re- member—that the line is after all the most essential thing about clothes the achievement of smartnes: times much at are so many influences, so many perios £0 much talk. that it seems as if there really was nothing distinctive or charactepistic about the mode of 1921. l our frocks but we Our gowns may be directoire or second empire, Spanish seventeenth century, or French eighteenth century., but our figures are twentieth century. They are as different from those of the late nineties as the late nineties are from the seventies as the form mold- 4 under the st vardingales of from that of the first empire. with its stays that forced the bosom un under the chin comvplex result of our the sports we t everything twentieth century erent from that a hundred years ago. * ¥ ¥ ¥ And even the pessimist who likes nothing better than to decry women's lothes must admit that not for four or five hundred years have women's bodies been left so unrestricted by stays and constrictions as at the resent time So it really is tremendously signif feant that though we talk of second smpire tendencies in clothes, there is no tendency to push ond empire CLOTH. cannot be more than a reminiscence of the directoire period because we do not, and surely will not without a long period of transition, wear tight bands under our arms. So it is perhaps the corset maker that knows how strongly women are wedded to their present lines who can give us the real answer to the question of silhouette. For the first time in dear knows how long the ob- Ject of corsets is not to accentuate or diminish any one part of our form. We have no taste for such exaggera- tions. Though there may be side puffs and side shirrings, paniners and even the insertion of hip crinolines, the intent to make one’s hips look larger or oe's waist consequently amaller is absent. Waists may drop down somewhere midway between what we used to re as our waist line and our knees and yet it is not through a desire to give the impression that We are enrmously long-waisted. For we adopt all these vagaries of clothes without actually changing the foun- dation upon which the clothes are to be worn. * * ¥ * TUndoubtedly some of the extremds in silhouette recently put out by the great dressmakers have simply been by way of diversion. Callot is not the only one Who has shown the draped hip in a one-sided effe neither Callot nor any one el thinks that the draped skirt will re- turn as it did around 1 Callot also shows hip crinolines for after- Historic Doll A FRENCH STYLE OF 1281. OLLS fin every style of wom- an’s dress from the time when Mother Eve made her first garment of leaves to the present are to be shown in a historic doll pageant at the Women's City Club on Saturday, April 2, for the benefit of the library committee of the club. There will be two ex- hibitions, one in the afternoon for children and another in the evening for adults. The dolls—156 in number—give an exact reproduction in style, material and color of won history be presenting in grouping by periods an and vivid panoram Roman matron is iinp costume which indicat ence of Roma pti since interesting rsonated in a the irflu- brought from lnes in corsetrs. The corset makers have at last found out that they can hope for nothing from advocating a nipped-in waist line, that their salva- tion depends on making corsets that achieve the utmost in self effacement The corset maker“has done her ut- most now when she has produced for ¥ou a corset that makes you look as 1 you wora none. S0 we wear frocks inspired by the wecond empire. but we do not affect the narrow walist and constricted dia- phragm of the second emplre. We Day wear directoire.clothes, but they the east. Ladies of the thirteenth century ar the “hennin” of the period, the funnel-shaped tube of beaded brocade, with a fine veil float- ing behind. 24 came the period of ermine, and a doll representing the stately Queen Claudia of France is gorgec Iy robed in fur-trimmed raiment. consort of Charies IX of Franc pears in a huge hoopskirt, and Jane Seymour, wife of Hen V1L, s shown in the favored fabric of cloth of gold. Queen Elizabeth is arrayed fn all her majesty. with Lne ruff in he ap- PANEL ACROSS THE BACK CAUGHT THE B Be Exhibited in Washington| their | of styles. A THEE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. C, I | noon frocks, but it is not with any special idea that crinolines are going | to be incorporated into the prevailing | mode of 1921. Thesc are but sports of fashion. They appeal to the woman who is willing to wear something unusual in order to gain the neces- sary note of variety. Theso are not the clothes designed or bought by the woman who must } wear her clothes six months from | the time she buys them. When you | buy for the future as well as for the present - you are wise in avoiding | such extremes. { And, of course, the object of the | interest of many women in watching | the tendency of fashions is so that | they may buy wisely, selecting what seems new and conservative, 5o that | it will still be smart at the end of | the season, possibly at the end of | next season. The extremely short skirt, though | it appears again and again in the | French openings, is certinly not a good seclection for the woman who | buys with the future in mind. There can be little doubt hut that the short skirt will gradually retreat before | the skirt of slightly longer propor- tions. Straight long lines are also a_conservative selection und, whil short slee are still _numerous, longer sleeves will undoubtedly su persede the shorter on before an- | other six months have passed. ) And it is a pretty safc bet that we have not had our fill the long waist line. It is a line that produces | an effect of youthfulness and of late vears anything that does this is sure Pageant Is to 1 trivle folds worn about the rack in| great amplitude and terrible stiffness Marie Antoinette IS dresseu i d magnificent royal costume of gold trimmed with blue s | imperial white dre shown in a doll w the ion robes embroidered with bee golden | Coming down to more modern times, ! one finds in the review fisherwoman_of today from of Forth. The picturesque she wears | bega Herring. representations of ing, one of the continental veri succeed- | costume of | time sentations from t I gown of t with rep better known dr to the pre American col- e Cl il ng the dress of women of all property of Mrs. He ght of Pitts- field, Mass., wifc of Charles H Wright, before her marriage shire and Hampden countics. i r marriage in 95, shington, Admirai Smith, U. She n'a trav eler in m i is the au- thor of s was Miss Helen a daughter of th f CLAUDIA OF FRANCE—1524, ~colored patterns. Price Insurance ALUE, as we under- stand it, is the price one can duplicate any article for within a given time. I{ you buy a suite of furniture here at $50 and can duplicate it anywhere else for $45 or $48 you are not getting full ‘value. We believe you should ; there- fore we sell everything in’ the store under this price guaran- tee: If within 48 hours you can buy like merchandise anywhere else for less, we will refund the difference or cancel the trans- action. Dutch valance curtains, 89c¢ set - Splendid quality muslin curtains neatly hemstitched and already headed for immediate hanging. 2V yards long and of regular $1.50 quality. Marquisetfe curtains, $4.95 set . Novelty curtains, made with valance for windows and without valance for doors. Stenciled in soft tones of blue, rose or in vari- All are 234 yards long, trimmed with edge and ready for instant hanging. This upholst(;red fiber suite, $89 A delightful Baronial suite with loose spring cushions over spring scats and backs u Priced separately, the sette chair, $23.50. ers pie — Co This rocker, $4.95— A comfortable, durable brown fiber rocker, use- ful in any room or for porch use, This lawn bench, $145—A hardwood bench 3 feet 3 inches long, with natural finish. Electr in a st No c: to fill ready This porch rocker, $345—-A maple wood porch rocker with open cane scat. out of dresser—\Very substantially built of solid oak and finished in golden oak Complete with ampl es l 8'90 sized mirror, A marvel of simplicity Here from its own tub and operating ly illustrating its compact con- struction and adaptability. Faucets at vour instant s this ‘means. Washer. nor sprockets to Note Lt 27, 1 1—PART 4. ARCH A presentation .and special sale emphasizing the chaste simplicily of IVORY Such suites make special appeal to the April bride. bed room suites For an ivory suite fits into a new home like showers and sunshine into April This $287 ivory bedroom suite, $195 A most attractive William and Mary suite, including a dresser with full width mirror, chifforette, toilet table with triple mirrors, and double bed. Fin- ished in old ivory. Other ;vory suites A $330 4-piece suite with Vanity dresser, $245. A $395 4-piece Queen Anne suite, $297. A $489 4-piece Louis X VT suite with large chifforobe, $398. A $595 William & Mary suite with Vanity dresser, $465. A $737.25 Louis XVT suite of massive proportions, $575. A$1,275 10-piece suite in French gray with twin beds, $985. A $170.50 4-piece child’s bedroom suite, $95. This $485 dining room suite, $325 A graceful Queen Anne suite, with unusual china cabinet, oblong extension table with shaped sides, buffet and server. pholstered in attractive tapestry. e is $41, the rocker $2450 and the rocker. This rocker, $14.75—A\ durable, baronial browg, fiber- reed rocker with loose spring hion over spring seat, cov- 4 with colorful cretonne Chair to match is also $14.75. This rocker, $3250—\ high wing-back fiber-reed chair with loose spring cushions over spring scats—both covered in handsome floral tapestry. Chair to match also $32.50. reed go-cart, $29.75 —A splendid go-cart of close- Iy woven reed, equipped with continuous tubular stee! pushers and reversible gearing. Enameled white or ivory and upholstered in corduroy with corduroy windshield. : N This $35 stroller, $23.75— An attractive stroller of gen- uine reed beautifully finished in frosted blue. This fiber reed suite, $169 ° A Baronial brown fiber suite with 7-foot settee, armchair and Loose spring cushions over spring seats and the backs covered with pleasing tapestry in floral patterns. This Bohn Syphon Refrigerator $119 With all the exclusive Bohn features built in, and especially important because of its Bohn Sy- phon s ystem of circulation with 2 half-inch lay- of Flaxinum and 11 walls of insulation; one- ce seamless porcelain provision chamber. mplete with fine oak case. Sani-cold refrigerators 30-1b. $14.75 40-1b. Refrigerator, $19.75 50-1b. Top-icer Refrigerator, $23.50 60-1b. Front-icer Refrigerator, $29.75 Top-icer Refrigerator, Sale universal “electric washing machines, $34-85 below wholesale cost, because we are giving up the agency. /1 is shown the Universal ic Clothes Washer removed andard laundry tub—clear- . The $34.85 price—below wholesale cost—is no reflection on the machine; we’ve had a dis- agreement with the maker and are giving up the agency. The Universal is GUARANTEED to do the work of $100 machines and is further guaranteed for construction and ease of running. Parts are few and simple; the machine is “fool-proof.” arrying of water necessary. r drain_plug ever Think what tub ana to empty it. of the Clothes unit i This wonderful « By the simple process of passing hot suds back AR U GO and forth through the perforated cylinder illustrated, or lifted out and in the clothes come forth snowy white in from six to fif- i ed in any ndard < < tub. There no belts, chai teen minutes. break or get order. that the entire capacity linder is open for clothes I machine can ent of Just eleven machines in all, five have been used as demons ing machines—all in perfect order. No more at $34.85 when these are gone. . \ $16.50 all-fiber RUGS 51175 size 9x12 Just (48 of them— good quality, reversible rugs, closely woven and in 6 new patterns of green, blue and tan. N il y Q}p 194 @S .'.6 Felt base floor coverings 39¢ Ringwalts, . Floor- tex, Economy and other standard makes that formerly sold for 75c and 85c. A splendid selection of patterns, numbering at least 20 or more—new and colorfully attractive. All are cut from full, perfect rolls. Bring meas- urements with you to in- sure absolute satisfaction. -