Evening Star Newspaper, January 23, 1921, Page 44

14 'BROUGHT "rstran e Adventures - in Shoes— At This Moment Smart - Shoes Are Alike on < the Two Conti- ~ nents—Colored o Footwear for the ~Street—Shoe " Styles ‘That Have . Disappeared. e BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE. EVER for a moment think that shoes are trifles. The public has been convinced of thelr ; importance through the me- dium of price. From $5 to $45 is a segamut that should rightfully astonish 9“%his segment of our generation. Some might ask where one could get Shoes for $5, but no one would ask =t SOCIETY Mrs. Barnett 'and daughter, Miss| Attractive Clothes Marjorle Barnett of Atlantic City, For the St W, Trip by Water to . They should be banned, h thrncaNit ir h ftor F e Stout Woman <dlserd S AthexaNr oot aaiter atds i tabion — iave peturncd [to Jthels homel ! While' the slender woman may oc- Tidewater, Virginia serious, too weighted with the bur- dens of labor and finance to permit a luxurious class to wear shoes which are reminiscent of the hanging gar- dens of Babylon This criticism has as much reason behind it as the criticism of those who insist that smart fashions are only for the rich and valnglorious. The underlying truth is that the girl on a small wage, the woman in the small town are the ones who wear these shoes and ultra fashions in pref- erence to others. The girl who emerges from the of- fice at 5 o'clock in the afternoor is far more apt to wear gray suede low shoes with Louis XV heels, a strap across the instep and one around the ankle, with transparent silk stock- ings to match, than is the ultra-fash- fonable woman. It is for this reason that the streets - where one could get them for $45. The . THE SUNDAY BTAR, JANUARY 23, 1921_PART 2. GAY AND FANTASTIC FOOTWEAR FASHIONS OUT BY. DESIGNERS FOR SPRING BLACK SATIN EVENING SLIPP) EMBROIDERED IN WITH BRACELET OF BRILLIANTS AROUND THE ANKLE. ion are pumps of all kinds and colors, except the few with high heels that are called gaiter pumps. Gold metal even- ing slippers are not fashionable. Neither are high laced er buttoned boots. Suede and leather shoes that lace up above the ankles are not in demand. Where have these shoes gone? sands of them on the market not long agq and they were quickly retired. ing. The guests were in fancy dress. Mr. and Mrs. Sidney H. Rizenstein left Wednesday for New York city to spend the week. l Personal Notes. Enjoyable Outings spending the past week at the Arling- ton, g A miscellaneous shower was given Tuesday night at the home of Miss Florence Hartman of Girard street by a number of friends of Misses ki- sie Picard, Mirlam_ Kleeblatt, Eleanor Cohen and Hilda Young, in honor of their respective engagements. Mrs. Samuel Kalisher and little daughter, Helen Louise, of Philadel- phia are visiting the former's mother, Mrs. Louis Siern of Beverly Courts. Mrs. S. Seideman is in Pittsburgh |for two weeks as the guest of rela- tives. { Mr. and Mrs. Albert Stelnem are oc- leupying an apartment in the Riviera, |Ashmead place. | The Town and Country Club held a jsmoker at the town clubhouse on Wednesday night, which brought to- gether a large gathering of its mem- bers. The gucst of honor was Com- missioner J. Thillman Hendrick. After an_elaborate program supper was served. ; Mrs_ Aaron Jackson was hostess Friday, entertaining the Afternoon casionally indulge in bargain cor- sets, a_purchase of this kind with its haphazard fit is to be avoided by the woman inclining toward stout- ness, for it 1s hy means of & properly constructed and properly adjusted corset that the figure foundation is made. The cholce of fabrics for gowns is also very important when a slender appearance is desired. There are cer- tain materials and colors that have a tendency to’magnify the figure, while others have the opposite Rough surfaces should be avolded by large women. Brilliant colors can be used successfully only in very small touches. Certain colors are generally known to apparently diminish size, among them being black, navy blue and all the extremely dark shades, while white and the light colors are apt to be expansive. Stripes cut off the width and empha- size the length, but a woman even verging on stoutness cannot consider a plaid. Fabrics woven or printed in large figures are not to be thought of, al- though small figures may be considered. OLD POINT, NORFOLK, VIRGINIA BEACH, OCEAN VIEW. ALL-YEAR RESORTS Daily service.. Modern steamers, City Ticket Office, 731 15th St. N.W. Special Rooms With Private Bath, $60. NORFOLK & WASHINGTON tormasion - Asarees MIAMIS. . CO. STEAMBOAT (O. : Ft. Catherine St. !wm, » ¥ effect. Jacksonville, Fla. Every Satudray at 3 P. M. From Havana Every Tuesdsy at 4 P.R. FAST, MODERN & ” ALL ELECTRIC, OIL BURNING = Webe Rates, $35and $45 TRiY, rorinies Borth acd Meals. {To LANDS of SUMMER RHINESTONES, There were thou- A one-color scheme of dressing is good for the stout woman. In dress designs long ones should be cultivated, as they break up the width of the figure. Horizontal or cross lines should be studi- ously avolded. Tunics and draperies are good if they are long. Tightness is a mistake. A gown that is tight fitting will attract attention to size. The lines should be easy, no compression in one place to cause a bulge in another, for. flesh must go somewhere. Plain girdles d narrow crushed girdles may be used with one or two narrow sash ends. Soft, indefinite colors suit an older woman. _She should avoid bright, harsh shades that call for a young, fresh com- 4 5 plexion on the one hand, and the drab Baumgarten and Mr. Edgar C. Kauf- | tones and dull blacks that Suggest the man returned on Thursday from a|5iq Jady on the oiher hen.: Dol il ;‘I‘_V:g:'eee!‘g hunting ‘trip at Watcha- | ver, o§a|er gray, clematis, wistaria, oansy color and black and white are the Mrs. Lee Baumgarten has had as|pest colors for her. For street suits a suest for two weeks her sister-in- | oider women should keep pretty close to law, Mrs. M. Strauss of Baltimore. very dark blues, blacks and dark gravs. Miss Minnie Schoenthal entertained | "¢ an elderly woman chooses the at a-tea dansant at the Arlington|right combination she can look as Hotel in honor of out-of-town guests. | charmingly attractive as her younger Mr. and Mrs. Julius Weinberg of |sister. For instance, an elderly wom- Atlantic City announce the engage-|an af a reception wore & bocoming ment of their daughter Estelle to Mr. Charles Lulley of Atlantic City, | on te oiabre oa geDilk, which set Bridge Club at luncheon and bridge. Mrs. David Sanger entertained at a luncheon and bridge Wednesday at her home~on Wyoming avenue. The Afternoon Sewing Circle met at the home of Mrs. Joseph King Thurs- day for luncheon. Mrs. Julia Luchs returned last week from New York, where she was the guest of relativés for several weeks. Mrs. Eugene Young was hostess Tuesday at luncheon at her apart- ment in Beverly Courts. Mr. and Mrs. Morris Simon and family and Mrs. Edward Mayer are in_their new home, 1736 Lanier place. Mr. Sidney C. Kaufman, Mr. Lee STEAMSHIP LINES NOWllERBh!hewoflthhmnogloflomlySum:rundu East Coast of South America—Rio—Montevideo—Buenos Aires. The colorful, gay life of these Spanish-American capitals, in their verdant settings, is in full swing sow. The trip itself is a fascinating voyage thru tropical, romantic seas. Every comfort is provided. Fine off the beauty of her nearly white hair and gave the faintest shade of pink to her cheeks, which was a great deal prettier than any rogue effect she might have tried. The skirt of her gown was of g1 silk, the bodice of gray chiffon over gray ‘The suede and leather low shoe will be in high fashion for spring If we ac- cept rumors. It will have a round toe, a high heel and one strap across the in- step. Some of these shapes have one broad ornamental strap that crosses the instep toward the ankle and pulls the steamers of the U. S. Shipping Board. Frequent sailings. Full particulars of any Travel Agency or at the offices of the MUNSON STEAMSHIP LINES 82.92 Beaver Street, New York formerly of Washington. Mr. and Mrs. Julius Lulley were guests of Mr. and Mrs. Julian Lulley of Atlantic City. Mr. M. Lulley was the guest of his son, Mr. Charles Lul- ley, and was present at the engage- ment dinner of Mr. Lulley and Miss sides of the shoe well up under the arch. | gt o silk, with a square yoke of real lace \ Tt i s delightful contraption. —The | CarelComeiaberE: @ Kamm were | 2 Darrow piping of pink where the PHILADELPHIA CHICACO ST.LOUIS BALTIMORE MOBIE woman with the thin. foot and slender, | 1,oq Tuesday night at a lerge dame | 1202 and bodice joined ~Over this high arch finds in it the one bit of com- | A5 Tuceday night at a large dance } gown she wore a long evening coat fort she has sought for vears. It 1s| 3¢ Rauschers, which included & num- | of gray cloth lined with a soft pink ) ZioreRbecoming (than llthdnamw strap | U Berved at m‘dmgl""_ %) silk. - P t outside. e — e perforntad Shoe which the French| Mr. Daniel S. Stern of Chicago has RESORTS. RESORTS. like has not gained p?wer overl’r:lere. ‘n :nno.l:tncedmthe“;nzlzement of ll3!1! Bea: if = has real beauty. If one restricts its!daughter, Iss nces Stern, to T. usage it is a valuable addition to the|Dolph Rosenthal of that city.' The util f“l #’ment ‘ costume. s worn on the street in | wedding will take place this winter. . o H?é‘acsl((*,‘%:,:v!i? ni';;,‘:{':m the morning it is gn evidence of bad | Miss Stern fs known here, where she arns = \ had been barefoot she might have|¥oman shouid be warned that she i8|gniontown, Ala, are now residing [{ll GitamoaPRiZ Beads and Bugles. AU 'l'h B been in better taste. during the coming season. Shoes are|here at 1811 Wyoming avenue. Sweaters and Knitted Dresses. e Mr. and Mrs. Leon Tobriner were hosts last week at a dinner followed by cards at their home on 16th strect - There 8 no evidence that high-laced 4 or buttoned boots will be returned to fashion. The low shoe is the thing. dangerous. There is nothing stable about them. They are liable to turn and render a costume ridiculous, to say Free lessons by competent teachers how to make them. The “Iatter is an average price for smart ~@hoes made to order. 3 Poesibly. such prices were equaled im the days when medieval shoes were cut of precious fabrics and sewn with pre- _cious jewels. There was a time when *“men spent much of their income on the gorgeousness of their clothes, and among the most significant items were shoes. After that epoch the covering for the feet became a matter of comfort and __protection for the majority. When the 7minority, eager for adventure, in quest of the curious, wanted to create a di- =:wersion from their frocks to thelr feet, “-they adopted the Greek sandal. During “Ithe rest of the time they let the shoe- “““maker perfect the line and construction of the shoe and were content with black (/8nd brown leather for the street and ‘Jith satin slippers for , the evening- was before the great war. * % ¥ * %y After the war was finished France _modeled much of her costumery on | clent Egypt, frivolous Babylon and fantastic Persia. Doing this, it was “»to be expected that anclent sandals, \gorgeously fashioned, Would make ~mtheir appearance. They did. Amer- dca smiled as at the childlike trick v0ef a people who loved colorful bau- “bles. Then America adopted the shoes, which were as different from aoAnything we haye ever worn as the ywns of Cleopatra from the tailored “isuits of Main street. sa:2 For six months women In this coun. stry have successfully diverted stten | 1 stion to their feet. They put jewels, feathers, fur and cut steel on top f metallic brocade, brilliant sati “ARhin velvet. The shapes they accept- ".bd were peculiar to this era. There siwas the sandal of the orient, tilted n+forward on the heel of the Bourbon »#There were the straps of Egypt, al- Tied to the heels of Spain. No one ‘country and no one epoch was con- stently represented. All shapes gave abundant reason to belleve that the #/women of this generation continue to insist upon high heels, i not small *>waists. = It is & curlous thing that each na- tion considers its own past folly as “Inexplicable when it appears later . jn another nation. Ten years ago the French wore pointed shoes that were copled from the tenth century. America wore at that time round toes, short vamps and Cuban heels. . Then each reversed itself in its chosen fashion; each smiled derisively at the ~ other. 1. At this moment smart shoes aré ‘alike on both continents. By some mccident two opposing fashions have +3ecome one for a short arc of time. *"he majority of American shoes re- main pointed. All French shoes are round, flat toes and short vamps. [But there in a segment of fashiona- *'Ble women in America Who adopt the “French shoe wholeheartedly. The sight of it still causes men and ‘women to turn and look. It is not yet considered commonpiace. The Ameri- ,.oan shoemakers have accepted the straps, the high heel and the some- what short vamp, but the majority of “them continue to follow the dimen- sions of a toothpick in the last of the shoe. , It 1s hard for the observer to say ~Which shape is the uglier the un- ‘modified French or the unmodified American. No shape has yvet reached »'a graceful compromise. The Ameri- _cans look as though their feet had _gone through a sausige grinder and come out shapeless. The French look as though their feet had been chop- ped off with a broadax, then tilted up at the back to keep them from touching the ground. Hideous de- formities, both of them. * x ¥ % As the epring approaches it is evi- dent that the shoemakers, like the dressmakers, are throwing all fash- Sens on the market in an effort to please all tastes. That we will wear fantastic shoes is ‘certain. That Palm Beach will in- augurate a fashion for vavied and fanciful shoes on the beaches and the dance floors is quite evident. We done with solemn feet for a space. ‘e are out for adventure. ‘There are critics of high fashion and the frivolities of wealth who insist that these shoes are merely the trap- oclal Indulgence and ex- of America between the oceans are filled with women wearing fantastic shoes. It is the conspicuous fashion of the hour. It was borrowed from France a year late. By the time it is at its zenith Paris will have turned to the pointed vamp and the flat heel. So we go, whirling around each other like planets of the solar system. It might be said that the conserva- tive ‘women, backed by the conserva- tive bootmakers, are still holding out for what is known as the American last. There are members of each set |} who refuse to wear or to make the French shoe. How the struggle will end, the summer may tell, but it is reasonable to guess that the French shoe will win out in a modified form. * % % % . The American foot is not broad enough to carry the exaggerated French shoe. The sculptors say the French foot is classic and the Ameri- can foot is as much an artificiality as the pinched waist. They consider our feet the products of over-civilization, and our small ankles ugly and sculp- turally incorrect. Well, whatever they are, they won't fit the broad French shoe in the shape the French wear it. It must be modified or it will rattle on our feet and slip oft when we walk. So there you are The only way out is to accept the rounded toe, the short vamp that fits our feet and let it go at that. As for the high heel, it will remain. Common_ sense will not avail. The fashion died down for a while during the war, but it has sprung from the ashes with renewed vigor. One never gets a satisfactory answer from the French as to why they approve of the heel of the foot upon stilts, while they Jaugh at the artificiality of what they call our “broken ankles.” 1t is a pity that women canfiot make a drastic ehange from winter to spring_footwear. They have ~gone through the winter months with low shoes, cobweb stockings, no gaiters, and they ‘intend to wear the same thing for the spring. They will go in a bit more, however, for colored shoes made up in combinations of black and gray, black and white, beige and black. The entirely black shoe with the colored stocking is a French fashion slowly creeping in. The Americans, however, appear to prefer stocking: and low shoes $hat match. Gray is the favorite. ings are worn for the street and dull gold for the evening. These two col- ors are universal. On the street the slipper is black, In the evening the slipper i8 of gold colored satin or brocade. Over here the new fashion of the late winter will spread into the spring; it is a blue and silver brocade oriental slipper with blue silk stock- ings to match. The tone of blue is deep and brilliant. Pastel slippers are out of fashion. Slippers to match the frock are out of fashion. ‘There are economists who have adopted the French fashion of Kkeep- ing gold colored satin stockings and slippers for every evening gown, re- gardless of its coldr or texture, Wom- en who have depended on black satin stockings and slippers for the even. ing feel that this custom is threat- ened, for one 80 rarely se black slippers even with black gowns. Any- thing is preferred to them Black and silver brocade slippers, built with straps across the are worn with silver stockings as a substitute for all black. There are also red and gold brocade slippers, worn with gold-colored stockings, used by women who wish to give color to a somber costume. You ca see by these tokens that sombernes: is gone. * k% x Having accepted a vast varlety of brilliant shoes for the evening, it is not to be expected that women will wear demure ones on the street. Re- fusing the French street fashion for beige and gold stockings with black patent leather shoes, the Americans have adopted black satin oxford tie with huge bows of ribbon on the in. gray by reason of the skin showing through. There seems no chance for a revival of immense ornamental buckles for the street; one should be grateful for such small evidence of improvement. The woman who wore patent leather pumps with high, thin heels and buckles three inches long and wide, made of rhinestones and cut steel, at 11 o'clock in the morning, was indulg- ing in the height of fantasy, If she In Paris beige stock-/the back. It has everything its own way. demand of some women for black ox- ford ties keeps a stock of them in the shops, but the majority of these ox- fords’ indulge in the high, sloping heel and wide ribbon bow on the in- ep. Of course there are sensible shoes in the shops and on the feet of wom- en. All the world is not given to fan- tastic foot covering. The sensible shoe of the hour is of brown leather, an African brown that matches the frocks and.furs. There are sensible shapes as far as the heels and the slender instep, but the point- ed vamp is difficult to escape. It is giving way slowly to something that might be called heart-shaped, which follows the natural outline of the foot at the joints of the ball of the foot, where the hard work is done. Thib is | an improvement in comfort and’ im | structural beauty. The flat heel is still too broad and ungainly except for country lanes, but there {s little evidence that the Cu- ban heel of moderate height will pre- vail. It is adopted by those who are making French shoes to order, but it perilously high. Soft, black patent leather is a rival of the Moroccan brown leather for :lreeli !;!e. dll')d both are covered with anciful and frequent stitchery to give body and substance. Sl It is difficult to un who sell at a low price the kinds of shoes which fashion pdoel not espouse. Yet the terrific price for shoes is maintained along the whole line, No hope is held out by the bootmakers for a lessening of price. It costs about $20 to buy a pair at the shops, no matter what the style, and $40 and over $40 when they are made to 9r'|er. Many women pay $50 a r for their evening slippers, without buckles. * %k x % ‘The shoes that might sell cheap be- cause they have Euppu.red from fash. Afternoon dresses of black crepe de chine and black lace are decidedly or flounced style, the flounces running | in disgonal lines across the front of | the skirt. The skirts of all the new | afternoon and dinner gowns are made fuller and longer. In many cases the skirts cover the ankle. Long, transparent sleeves of lace are worn Attractive New Dresses. | new. The skirts are made in paneled | | with low-neck dinner gowns. Gloves are seldom worn with evening gowns by those. who are particular to fol- low the prevailing modes. _Simple black dresses of crepe de chine or georgette crepe are made with a round neck, short sleeves and a wide sash of brilliant-colored crepe. Evening gowns are seen in two very distinct styles. One of these styles is the gown draped In a long, princess line and is made with trains from the sides or. panel effects from The other style has the bodice in a fitted effect, molding the hips and a full-flared skirt. Some of these are in 1830 crinoline design. Others have the full, distended hip of the dresses seen In old Spanish portraits. All evening gowns are sleeveless. The decolletage is less daring at the front, but all modes are low in the back. On with the dance, and daneing slippers. Cloth of gold or silver, ‘satin, suede, patent leather, bronze, at the new lower prices, and hose to imatch. Men’s dancing oxfords, 11.75. Our winter clearapce of high shoes is on. Women’s 8.85 and 10.85, were 11.50 to 16.00. Men’s 9.85 and 11.85, were 12.50 to 18.00. Boys’ 5.75, were 8.50, mostly black. Arthur Burt Co., 1343 F e B nothing of its wearer. Final Clearance - Last Week Small group Satin, Duvetyn, Tricotine After- noon Dresses, $75.00. Formerly to 320000 Small group Dance Dresses, $75.00. Formerly to $185.00. Small group smart Walking Suits, $75.00. For- merly to $150.00. Small group Day Coats and Wraps, $75.00. Formerly to $150.00. AR Furs Practically Half Price. All Trimmed Winter Hats, $5.00, $7.50, $10.00 THE GREATEST VALUE EVER OFFERED For Stout Women Dancing was enjoyed during the even- THE EMBROIDERY SHOP MISSES FREUDBERG 827-829 11th Street Near New York Avenue Ask Mr. Foster TRAVEL INFORMATION SERVICE RESORTS. ATLANTIC CITY. N. 3. Will supply without charge or fee definite and sat-- isfactory information about Winter Travel, tours and trips anywhere .in the Mid-South, Florida, Cuba, the Gulf Coast, Texas, California, Bermuda, . the Bahamas, the West Indies and South America, and about winter sports and resorts in Vermont, 13524 'ORLD'S Greatest Hotel Success— with its marvelously, beautiful ocean view surroundings, offers a di- New Hampshire, Maine and Canada and in Swit- zerland, where winter sports are again available. Mr. Foster maintains offices in New Orleans, Pine- hurst and in the great winter resorts of Florida and California, and knows the changing conditions and what accommodations are available. The service is complete in helping to plan your trip, purchasing your tickets, securing accommo- dations on train or ship and at hotels, and there is no charge. You are invited to— "_AsKk Mr. Foster “Gity gt Robust. Hoalth Hotel Morton e T EZRA O. BELL and PAUL M. COPE, Props. AeWILTS HIRE Virgiala ave. and Beach. Cap., 350. Private baths; run. water; elevator, etc. Amer. plan, SAM. ELLIS, Owner. N. J. COLLINS, Mgr. Kentucky ave. HOTEL BOSCOBEL Xentucky ave Btoam heat.. Sun patlons s eat. ‘Sun pa Z e s MARION: Kentucky ave. near WESTMINSTER Eeatucky ave. near street. Private batha. Running water. G. A. KOPP, Owner and proprietor. There are forty Ask Mr. Foster offices in the large cities and resorts, ELF-REDUCING CORSETS MILLS, 26 8. Tenn. ave., Atlantic City. Houses, apartments, hotels, stores, room for rent and sl ROM ST. AUGUSTINE, with its many historic memories, its quaint strests and overhanging balconies, ORMOND, PALM BEACH and MIAMI, away dows to the famous LONG KEY fishing camp, and KEY WEST, and from NASSAU in the amas, there comes a Call for YOU | S Come to the Sunny beaches, and bathe in the warm blue waters. Take your Pplace on one of the many Golf links, 5o varied, yet each the Golfer's Ideal. There fishing is the best. Sport for the novice as well as the expert. SAILING MOTORING RIDING TENNIS therells something for each to enjoy and all under real summer-like conditions— &enial sunshine, blue skics, fragrant breezes and brilliant surroundings. g Through Pullman trains with Dining Car Service from Beston, New York, Phile- delphia, Baltimore, Washington, efc., to St. Augustine, Ormond, Daytons. Palm Beach, Miami and Key West. Connecting at Mismi with ships for Nassas, and at Key West with ships for Havans, Cabs. _ Also ihrough Pulimans from Chicago, Cleveland, Tolodo, Detroit, Grand Rapids, Keoec. City, St Louis, Columbas, Indisnapolis, Cincianati, to Jacksonville, connection with Flotida Esef Coast Railway " . 4