Evening Star Newspaper, March 12, 1898, Page 15

VIENNESE FASHIONS Gowns and Wraps for Women of Ad- vancing Years. DESIGN FOR A HANDSOME MANTEAU Peacock Feathers Are Again in Great Demand for Trimmings. STATELINE! S AND DIGNITY Syccial Correspondence of The Evening Star. VIENNA, March 1, 1898. Through all ages and in all climes wo- man has considered inexorable time the natural enemy of beauty, of which she herself was ever considered the highest representative Daily she fights against its ravages, and when at last she yields she does so with such charm and grace that his victory be- comes his defeat. She knows full well that e upon her face is the res: tien born of pain and sorrow, p put command re ‘ir 1 ch line traced of deep reflec- rhaps, and while her er if the light pe sympathy and love for others. Her good taste and innate sense of the beautiful prot her to clothe her erst- the body, now lesing the supry youth, in gowns conveying leng! and she surmoun ‘3 with a bonnet impressing as well as dignity. Is of history deal with hero- ¢ charms reached the pinnacle at- first bloom of youth had passed Gaintine All t the rosebud we possibilities, contemplation of a are fascinated by its latent which are ri. ed later in the full-blown rose. Thus woman can be beautiful 2 ctive in all stages of her life. Her costume contributes largely to her at- tractiveness, and dress becomes an art a the years jaims more study and on s. Dignity and state! hould be in evidence, and col- ors snould be carefully chosen. A Great Favorite. The princess form is a grea gowns for elderly ladic @ long manteau fs sur of fashion as well as of the most our model of h of a dark lavender shade coat, and is appliqued on insertions of velvet of a The manteau is con deep decorative darker shade of lavender. ne in shape and fits closely to the e, being secured in front with invist- ple buttons and buttonholes. A full soft flounce of lavender velvet and applique cloth falls over the fastening in front. The p insertion of velvet extends all around » skirt and gives the effect pf a wide Law Triumphant in Boston. From the Boston Transcript. A woman in the audien the Castle Square Theater y noon had temerity to defy the la She was ob- law tcok Its course, this first time that the ordinance re- hats in theaters w a seat in the third row of the 1 her hat was large enough view of two women behind sting ing th 5 to hi e occur t balcony tru th. ne latter asked the woman to re- jonable headgear, but the request was not c Complaint was made to an u: nded to the woman the usual card read 1t, but made ne move to remove her hat, and the ctfully asked her ff she had » replied in the affirmative, but nothing more. The . repeated the requ head t sev usher was ral time: ad finally remarked that he would | ized to call upon the police r apparently was determin: that she did not care. this point the matter had case, atd if the hat was not ri theater would have been I for a violation of the ordinanc woman was obdurate and Polic was At into at moved the The man Lewis called. He told the woman that she OLYMP: sh them from a heart full of | s the silver | favorite for | to fill all require- | s tested. | flounce, which is lined, like the rest of this elegant wrap, with lavender taffeta. The artistic sleeve of lavender velvet is a leg o’ mutton in shape and quite full in the upper arm and narrowing toward the wrist, where it again widens into a bell- shaped cuff. The deep collar cut in one with a high standing Medici collar, 1s also made of lavender cloth and velvet and is lined with taffeta. It forms deep tabs and is edged with very narrow strips of shin- ing peacock’s feathers. The Medici collar is entirely lined with peacock feathers. Pencock Feathers. We are happy to say that the supersti- tion of ill-luck which has hovered over this beautiful plumage has at last been lfted from it by the frivolous hand of Fashion— and we find it on the newest spring wraps and gowns as a garniture so rich and beau- tiful as to provoke Juno herself to envy and anger ever the usurpation. Discretion is recommended in the use of this trimming, as too much of It is likely to give the effect of vulgar gaudiness. The bright metallic colors on the collar of our model are accentuated by a full cravat of lavender mousseline de soie. This manteau could also be made in dark green, purple or black with excellent effect. Matrons have again adopted the old dol- man shape of their newest spring wraps, and so closely do they adhere to the styles of fifteen years ago that a gown of that time could be worn unaltered with impuni- wrap is generally made of the th and to match the gown, as it then. A handsome model of dark blue cloth has a rather seanty skirt, the fullness of which ‘alls at the back in two box pleats, gradu- ally widening d the hem. The border f dark blue velvet is appliqued in apron overskfrt form with black silk soutache | braid; the tight bodice shows an inserted vest of velvet and is trimmed with a point of appliqued velvet at the back. A Handsome Wrap. The dolman fs lined with black satin and is loose in front, showing a sleeve effect, while the back forms two box pleats, which adjusted to the waist line and fall ely below over the back box pleats of irt. The garniture in front and along appliqued velvet, and a high oar is edged’ with black are velvet Medici ostrich plume Pointed vests and revers give a longer appearan to the waist, and they are therefore a favorite mode of trimming for figures inclined to embonpoint. All bodices S measuring over twenty-four j inches around the waist should have two ‘arm pieces instead of one, which not lengthens the effect, but narrows the ces of the bodice, thus adding more ver- al lines, all of which are advantageous to the figure. Our model to the right is a fair example of an elderly lady's basque. It is of black serge with revers of black satin opening over a pointed vest of very dark red satin j Yelled with fulled black mousseline de soie. Thus, with proper attention to develop- | ment character and appearance, and | armed with tact and good taste, woman | stands proof against | time, and each succeeding ye add to her charms and rais the heart of man. the des Tructions of ro may but her higher in must told her sk the management would r remove She refused. He misht change her seat, or that ‘und her money. e refused to do either, and told the po- liceman that he would have to drag her out if he k her out at all. The police- man ient, but as the woman would | not aceept any of the alternatives he got | ready for action. The peo: tting in the ts were requested to step into the and the policeman stepped forward, use force. The woman weak- | ened, rever, and went out in front of | the policeman. After telling the manager of the theater what she thought of the whole matter, she accepted the twenty-five | cents she had paid for a seat and left the theater. The regulation relating to the covering of the head in places of amusement was passed by the board of aldermen on May 24, 1807. It is as follows: Regulations of 1897—Chapter 2. A reg- ulation relating to the covering of the head in places of public amusement. Be it ordered by the board of aldermen of Bos- ton, as follows: ction tex of chapter three of the re- d regulations of 1892 is hereby amend- ed by inserting after the word “amuse- ment” in the second line the words, “nor shall any person be allowed to wear @ cov- ering for the head so as to obstruct the view of any person in any such place.” UP TO DATE. ‘The cotillion. ~ | ordinary plain fold. HOUSEHOLD HINTS In selecting a lobster, attention must be paid to ¢he weight, freshness and alert- ness. A Frock lobster, with black spots on the back, and weighing three or four Pounds, is usually best. The tail should be stiff and springy and the sides firm. A lobster that has died before going into the boiling pot is unfit for food. If the claws are limp and sprawling, beware! A heavy, muggy smell is also afsure sign that the lobster is not fit for the table. Lobster is an admirable dish, whether boiled, broiled, deviled or made in the favorite chafing dish preparation—a la Newburg. This rather elabcrate dish received its name from its inventor, a frequenter of Del- rronico’s, named. Wendburg, but whose mcdesty was so great that he objected to the use of his name in connection with his discovery unless partially disguised. It should not be spelled, therefore, with a final “h,” as is often done by persons who suppose it is named from the Hudson river town. After the lobster is boiled Pick out all the meat from claws and tail and cut into delicate pieces about an inch lcng. Season with salt and a pinch of cayenne, adding three or four mushrooms cut in dice if desired. Melt a rounded tablespoonful of butter in the chafing-dish, put in the meat, and lightly toss with a fork three or four minutes. Add a half cup of sherry or Madeira, as preferred, and let the mixture simmer slowly ten minutes longer. Beat the yolks of three eggs thor- oughly (you can beat them beforehand and cover with a damp cloth), and add a tablespoonful of cream to the eggs so they will not curdle. Pour a half cup of cream into the lobster and wine and cook until it bubbles, which will be in a moment or two, then stir in the -eaten yolks. As soon as it thickens serve, adding a tablespoon- ful of brandy at the last, if desired, A fruit ice cream which is popular at the cooking schools is made in this wise: The ingredients required for a quart of ice cream which will serve eight people fashionably or six people bountifully are three cupfuls of milk, one cup of cream, one large deep yellow egg, two tablespoon- fuls of flour, cne cup of sugar, one level tablespoonful gelatine (if it is to be mold- ed), one-half pound English walnuts in the shell and one-quarter pound of figs. Soak the gelatine in a little of the cold milk, saving two or three tablespoonfuls more of the milk to go with the sugar, ficur and eggs. Mix thoroughly. Heat the milk and add the flour, eggs and sugar stirred in the cold milk, stirring carefully until thickened. When it comes from the fire add the dissolved gelatine, the cream and a teaspoonful of vanilla. Chop the walnuts and figs and put in after the cream is frozen. Take out the dasher and beat in thoroughly. Pack. Table decorations now are all indicative of spring, the scheme of color selected be- ing almost invariably yellow. When the tables are leng, two large flower pieces equidistant from the ends are the usual custom. The foundation for these are rec- tangular shallow baskets filled with moss and sand, into which flowers, their stems ‘weund with fine wire and fasténed to tooth- icks, are thrust. A combination frequent- ly seen now are ihe daffodils or jonquils used with yellow tulips ard asparagus fern. Narrow yellow ribbons tie the bread sticks, and the shades of candles or lamps, the glaces and Lonbons, the dressing of the salads, and the frostirg of the cakes all a: of the same golden hue. Sometimes tiny yellow silk pennants fastered to toothpick nd set in the frosting of the cakes give an additional bit of color to the scene. In ironing napkirs, fold like tablecloths, with the selvedges togethe1 then iron straight up ard down with the warp, not across. Fold out, then fold back even! This allows it to open readil $ a monogram fold outside. folding is a matter of choice, but most private families prefer the Sherry allows but one cket to hold the roll. Way, the Englis! English papers advertise paper patterns, for showing how to fold linen in fancy s Among these is the “prince's where the napkin js folded first in then crinkled by running a silver encil through the center fold. The of the kindergarten is also a favorite st ape. Among the effects are made of white stiff di per with tic designs painted ck or water colors, ew lamp shades, the empire ‘awing pa- in on jepicting bea of the empire. Louis XV alloped flounces, and are turned back near the top, the upper part near the glass being caught with bunches £ ribbon, Brojicd sardines make an admirable Lent- en dish for luncheon or supper. Drain the oil from large sardines, place them on a broiler and put over a clear hot fire long enough to heat the fish thoroughly, but not dry them. Have ready finger pieces of hot, and place a sar- Have some of the oil and brush each piece over with it. a half teaspoonful of sauce tartari sardine, und garnish the platter with small bunches of parsley. delicately browned toast dine on each pie Lot, “Brownie” overalls still grow in favor with the srall boy, who wants “to have fun” undeterred by constant admonitions to be careful of your clothes,” and by his sible mother as well on whom falls the cnus of keeping his clothes in repair. The blue jeans, have been adopted by most of the Kindergartens in the poorer districts, while they are equally popular in the sand and garden work of kindergartens where the children of the “400” are taught. If ice cream sticks to the mold and re- fuses to slip out readily, put a towel wrung out of hot water eround it a moment to lccsen. Then if the outside seems soft, set in icebox ancther moment to harien again. To remove chocolate stains in table nen, vse cold water first, then boiling, holding the spot over a bowl, and pouring the boll ing water frcm the tea kettle through it. See gers Ethnology of Kissing. m Mail. s was unknown among the abo- tribes of America and 6f Central From the most ancient times, however, it has been familiar to the Asi- atic and European races. The Latins di- vided it into three forms—the osculum, the basium and the suaviolum—the first being the kies of friendship and respect, the second of ceremony and the third of leve. The Semites always employed the kiss, and Job speaks of it as part of their acre es, as it Is today in the Roman Catholic Church. The Mongolian kiss is not the same as that which prevails with us. In it the lips do not come into actual contact with those of the person kissed. The nose is brought into light contact with the cheek, fore- head or hend; the breath is drawn slowly through the nostrils, and the act ends with a slight smack of the lips. The Chi- nese consider our mode of kissing most detestable. We on our part regard their method with equal disdain. Darwin and other naturalists have at- tempted to trace back the kiss to the act of the lower animals who seize thelr prey with their teeth. The average man does not take a great deal of interest in the ethnology of the subject, however. See eas Women’s Hats in London Theaters. rom the London Daily News. Every visitor at the performance of “Much Ado About Nothing” at the 8t. James Theater yesterday afternoon re- ceived with his play bill a printed slip bear- ing the following despairing appeal for mere 8ST. JAMES THEATER. Mr. George _Alexander earnestly begs those ladies whose hats are likely to ob- struct the view of others in the audience to remove or leave the same in the cloak room—for which there iq no charge. The ladies, however—in the words of Dalila, “implacable, more deaf to prayers than winds and seas’’—took little notice of this pathetic document. From first to last, with a few exceptions, these “guilty crea- tures sitting at the play” clung to their more or less monstrous headgear, and the unhappy spectators in the back rows of the stalls saw nothing but what the young Prince of Denmark called “a forest of feathers.”" o0———__ “The next thing,” says the Atchison Globe, “wili be-demands for pensions from those who got hoarse in demanding war with Spain.” oo None but the brave deserve the fair; and they can always support them.—Puck. COBWEBS AND GAUZE Summer Gowns Will Be Made of Very Airy Materials, FASHIONS FOR THE COMING SEASONS The New Tailor Dress That Has Met With Approval. NAVY BLUE IS POPULAR (Copyright, 1898, by Bacheller Syndicate.) Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. NEW YORK, March 11, 1898. OBODY EVER claimed that the ring openings offer a feast Of reason, but certainly there is now presented a flow of draperies. A sum- mer of cobwebs and gauze Is ahead of us, from tulle - crowned hat to billowy skirts we are going to em- ulate the book musiin ang biue sash misses ” whe picked strawber- ries and sweethearts in the novels of fifty years ago, enjoying extraordinary adven- tures in unsubstantial garments. I know of but one infallible method of gaging the probable popularity of fash- ions; that is, to hitch one’s Wagon to an Average Woman when she 1s heading for an opening. The Average. Woman pays no attention to the beds of shivering pansies shrinking from the March winds in the great shop vestibules. No such poor pretenses of spring weather are necessary to allure her. With a swish of her violet-cclored silk pet- ticoat she is past them, and elbowing her way through a crowd of her violet-scented sisterhood to the millinery and costume parlors, Arrived at her goal she looks at everything, comments aloud en everything and feels of everything not protected by glass. It is safe to take such things as she stands longest in front of and consid- ers most seriously as certain to be popular probably befcre the summer is over we somely popular. The Average Won . and unmekes fashions; first by cond by wearing them-- stale, Has Good Taste. The Average Woman is a person of very much better taste than she is credited with being She usually admires the least objectionable of the models presented for her approval, but she is restricted, often, in her own purchases to cheap imitations. These are among the reasons why she valuable as an indicator and why, in the long run, she spoils fashions. These sayings cannot be taken by any- body as personal, because everybody knows there never was an ayerage woman. Nevertheless the Average Woman has de- cided to flounce to the hips only. flounces were worn last, the skirt ered with them; this time the upper of the skirt will remain tight, at least for some time to come. She has decided to accentuate the airy effect of her flounces by using transparent materials in all cases where by any stretch of the judgment they can be imagined feasi- ble. Young girls will wear organdies and sheer veilings over colored silk linings. Brides will be married in white silk nei and mousseline de soie. Matrons will wear grenadines and fine canvas fabrics. When heavier stuffs must be employed they will be embroidered in openwork patterns to show contrasting linings, and will be as fine and soft in texture as they can be made. The best serges and cashmeres now in the market have been woven on these principles. When a silk is required, a soft one, capable of lending itself to “clinging” effects and without rustle, will be chosen. The extremely feminine idea has the better of the “smart” tdea and fluff and fineness go hand in hand. A Daring Deed. The Average Woman has done a daring deed; she has meddied with the tailor gown. It is her decision that it shall not be incorrect to cut that’ severely perfect piece of attire with a Spanish flounce this season. The new tailor dress glamped with her approval has a slim, narrow skirt widening out toward the fcet,,.with a bias flounce flaring slightly from. the knees. This skirt is trimmed with rows of stitch- ing or with bands of cloth, and is worn with a three-quarter length, square-cor- nered jacket or a cavalier coat, in some in- stances. - The Average Woman has made up her mind that the old idea of-permitting the overskirt_ and underskirt. of; dress to be of different shades of on@color or of different colors, or the same“golor in dif- ferent materials or of differ@st colors in widely different materialg isgiust as ra- tional as the newer {deaf of icy waists and almost as conventenf..Pigis has sent over street dresses in thage studes of blue for skirt, overskirt and strapping; in light and dark green and in contrasting shades of gray. Also there are cloth dress- es with grey underskirt and pink or blue be eae or even red ove! te pacer. and ue satins are offered together, and gray and yellow, as well as aii skirts, with cioth polonaises. The effort of fashion is toward intrusiveness. - ‘You take one materia! and apply another to it. If chiffon you add laée: If cloth you add velvet. Every alliance of this sort that has been suggested to the Average Wo- ay she is preparirg to accept with avid- y- . Attracts Attenfion. Propably the most striking nw depar- ture in spring dressmaking ‘is that of mak- ing up striped fabrics with a seam in the middle of the skirt front, causing the stripes to meet in acute angles pointing down: When this innovation was pointed | From the Philudelphia Times. out to the Average Woman she said that such skirts couldn't “heng well.” Good dressmakers can make them hang weil, and the first one the Average Woman tried decided her in their favor. When she got home, after a trial in it, she said to her husband: “Every woman I met looked at me.” That settled its desirability. It is decreed that navy blue is to be ex- tremely fashionable. May the Average Wo- men acquiesce, for color sins are the coi monest and the worst of dress sins. Nav; blue is needed as a refuge from the preva- lent purple. The unabated rage for that color indicates that the Average Woman has no conception of its deadly effects. I have met several times the combination of middle age, a purple dress, rouged cheeks and an electric light. People who have had similar encounters need no comment. It is merciful to spare others. Dingy colors, miscalled “quiet” ones, become only the freshest and most beautiful. The brighten- ing of the world in the last few years by the adoption of a wider range of colors in dress is one of the most beneficent things that has happened; but, as has been the case in other reforms, some vi the reform- ers lack discretion. ELLEN OSBORN. ——+0- A YOUNG MA MILLINER. One Male Student in a Brooklyn Class While it is true that men have been mak- ing women’s fine gowns and bonnets for some years, yet an instance of a genuine American man milliner has been thus far almost unknown, Native born young men have been free to let their foreign brothers have a monopoly in the business, but now the country is to have at least one male artist in feminine headgear. Any one who does not believe it has only to ask the mother of a Brookyn young man, who has had three new bonnets thi ter and all her son pretty bonnets, too. She them if they were not. Th of the young artist in hats ent Pratt I ut Any one who the evening millinery class will be inter- ested to see, first of all, a number of gi each of whom is bringing into shape eleton of a hat, which gradually takes to tself a covering of some kind of stuff,which the expert knows to be canton flannel. That is the material which the millinery experimenter uses in lieu of velvet. But by adquarter at pr this time the visitor has discovered that is a young man in thi He is @ hat with all the e ne in- ( that is to be seen in the young ¥ men. And America may have a first-c n milliner. They e never had men students in this line of work before at Pratt's, though they have had ap The p nt pupil is taking eve ons, and comes twice a week now taken thirty or more, beginning at the A, B, C of millinery is did think it was rathe ung man of © with them, y came funny at teen tak- mut _as he to think it was quit “Yes,” ‘they nice, after all. ung man says, “I am learning the bus! 1 am going into the wholesale business, but you have to under- y part of it and know how all work is done to be al. “Oh, yt nton maga- zine regularly. I have made three bonnets for my mother already.” ———-—- e+ Give the Stupid Boy a Chance. Frem the ist Courier. Here is a lesson and perhaps 2ncourage- ment for parents who have a stupid boy, for no doubt there are a few stupid boys in the world, even amid the lights of thi closing century. It is said that when Isaac Barrow, one of the greatest of English preachers, was a boy, his father thought him very stupid, and used to say if it Pleased God to take from him any of his children ke hoped it would be Isaac. But Isaac was not taken; he grew to be one of th2 greatest preachers of England, a pro- fessor in the University of Cambridge and a teacher of Sir Isaac Newton. It is well to remember that a boy is not necessarily Stupid because he is pronounced stupid. He may be stupidly judg2d. The fire of in- tellect may kindle slowly; it may s2em to be smoldering under a heap of ashes, hopelessly suppressed. Genius does not al- ways shoot up like a skyrocket. It may come like the rising of th> sun to meridian splendor, slowly, steadily. Do not be dis- couraged py the apparent stupidity of the boy or girl. Give him or her a fair chance. The first movements of the great seagoing vessel are apparently awkward and_hesi- tating, as she trizs to turn to get out of the harbor. But watch her graceful, splen- did movements as she ploughs the ocean or weathers the storm. Moreover, a stupid judgment of a boy is damaging to him. To call him a dunce, a blockhead, an idiot is very unwis> as well as unkind. It may discourage him, may for a long time paralyze his efforts, may even permanently affect his character. Give the stupid boy a chance, and it will be known ere long whethar he is really or only apparently stupid. —__-+ e+ —___ New Home for Italy’s Parliament. From the New York Tribe. The Italian government has at length taken steps to provide a more suitable abode for its chamber of deputies than the so-called Monte Citerlo, which is utter- ly unfitted for legislative work. Its acous- tic properties are so bad that mem- bers are obliged to leave their seats and gather round the speaker if they do not wish to lose his words, while it is impos- sbble to hear him from the press gallery. The building itself is imposing, and was partly designed by Bernini. From the time of Pope Innocent X it served as the Curia Innccenziana, or Papal Law Courts. But when Rome became the capital of Italy in 1870—some two hundred years after the Curia was built—it was found that by in- closing the courtyard a sufficiently large chamber of deputies could be made. But each year its inconveniences have become more intolerable. Merchent—“Have you bad any experi- ence in chinaware?” it—Well—er—I usually set it to- gether pene and put it where some cus- sock gd "Gferohant— “You'll 90% London Tit-Bita Cleveland’s Baking Powder does the work . BAA WA As just right every ARE time, That's why all the leading Teachers of Cookery use and recommend it. Stylish Linings and Trimmings for Spring and Summer Gowns, * Taffeta is the Real Thing, but Silk Serge and Percaline Are Almost as Good. Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. NEW YORK, March 10, 1898. Whether we choose for our spring and summer gowns the novelties described last week, or whether we get standard light- weight cloth or dainty silk, trimmings and linings must be carefully considered. If one can afford it silk is always chosen for lining, preferably taffeta. There is a new taffeta which has a softer finish than the old. It is wararnted not to rustle quite so loud, and loud skirts are quite out of date. This taffeta is also said to wear better than the old. It should be borne in mind in decrying the wearmmg qualities of a silk lining that in the light weights of cloth or silk used for summer the lining will wear twice as long as when it is part of a heavy stiff cloth gown and has to withstand the winds, rains, dust and mud of winter. But we cannot all afford taffeta. rtu- nately many of us e old skirts, both light and dark, for few women are so im- provident as to give or throw y old silk gowns. These old skirts are just thing for the separate linings now m which are attached to the outside pettic only at the belt. Whether your old si k, blue. striped or plaid y linings or somber linings are worn’ according to the taste and fancy of the individual woman, and ft is not wu common te a black skirt when dainti lifted disc! a colored lining, or vice versa. Made Into Flounces. Silk skirts which are cut in places so that they could not be used for a wh skirt lining are often made into floun which are long enou knee to the bottom upper part of the lining is made of perca line or some other servic material. Most of the cotton lining: in « now, so that it is an easy th to fall from the f the hem, and the able come any’ silk which one may have. All ot Paquin’s gowns are not only lined with silk, but there is a four-inch knffe-plaited of silk abou ttam of the Often there ruffle inside lt gives a very picture: ting for a pretty ankle i ruffied silk, but the length ch French gowns are made means th: ruffles full of dust i So a carriage and a maid are r quisites of an import wn this yea’ Many black gowns (and this spring they legion) are lined with paie blue or nd the effect of the knife plaitin, ly fetching. Failing the wherewithal to purchase s ings without fecling wickedly gant, und iacking the necesss of old silken gowns from which to man facture them, the silk and cotton linings on which one ompromise For seldom does a new fad or fancy come in without manufacturers making thing with which it may be carried out or imitated. Not So Expensive, in either brocaded or change- eautiful and durable price of It gorgecus she Sik serg able effect half the us percaline, which is nd silk, is especially de “le for summer, as it is very light. It ‘0 comes in plain or watered effects, and id to be the most popular lining there ring the real taffeta. Silk warp mo- very handsome and light, and not be worn out. Once in the family it is there to line at least three gowns, one after the other. Even percaline itself when it has no pre- tensions to being half silk has grown light and ethereal and come harming watered © It is looking cotton now and stitt- m Me di: appeared. Nor can one’s modiste now b cne not to buy it because pins will not go through it nor stay in it. cf these separate lining skirts are with something to hold them out about the bottom, either a dust ruffle or a Spanish flounce, ‘and _prefei full knife-plaited ruffle after the French model mentioned above. For the outer skiri it is simply hemmed up and contains noth- ing to hold it out. The inner skirt has the flounce or flounces, the stiffening to the depth of three inches (if any at all is used), the binding, etc. If the outer skirt is made four yards around the inner skirt is a little narrower, only a few inches. Important Details. All these prosaic details are of the great- est importance, as the separate lining has qvite as much to do with the beauty and srrartness of a gown as the lining which is made part of it. Indeed, the separate lin- ing should be more carefully considered, as being separate from the outside skirt it shows whenever the position of the wearer is ehanged or the hem of the skirt is lifted. Although the skirts must flare about the ankles, yet they must be soft and clinging in effect, so no reeds are used in the lining. But if one wishes to get exactly the right effect, a union of Clinging effect and well- displayed gown, that is, a gown held in the best position, it is necessary to either make or purchase a petticoat with feather- bone in it. “Akin to hoops!” one horrified dame remarks; no, for effects are so very slim. Featl erbone is very light, very grace- ful and constantly in motion. It only holds the gown in place. In silk the petticoats boned with featherbone are rather expen- sive, but it is possible to have them made at home by observing a good model and having it accurately copied. Linings for net gowns are much improved by having a tulle skirt, the color of the outside net, over the lining. All the Paris gowns are made in this way, and it gives softness to the net which the silk alone could not give. Tulle skirts have always had a second and even third tulle skirt to give the requisite lightness of appearance. Even some grenadines have a tulle lining between them—outside grenadine and the lining proper. But this can only be done when the pattern of the grenadine allows it. One of the large plaids with a silk weave of green, blue or some other color in it, over a lining of the same shade as the in the grenadine would lose its effect if tulle intervened between it and the taf- feta silk it masks but does not cover. MABEL BOYD. ES SS “Pll take my chances with posterity,” said the poet whose effusions had been re- fused. - “Of course will,” sneered the editor. “You know ity well that posterity can't get at you.”—Detroit Free Press. sk.to match | *| of more than a million marks— She Can | From the London ‘Tit-Rits, Miss Freda Knagen, a charming and athe letic brunette of Christiania, ts the only woman living who has eclipsed all male rivals in any branch of athletics, At the Sreat ski-ing competition, held recently at Holmenkollen, she cleared the astounding distance of 103% feet in a single Jump, leay- ing the highest previous record 16% feet in arrear. The course at Holmenkollen, on the out skirts of Christiania, is the scene of the championship contests in the Swedish na. tional sport. The course, which is of snow,! deep, crisp and firm, slopes upward from fre ake ut a sharp angle to a height of| 160 feet. Two-thirds of the way down the’ course there platform, from which! there is a vertical drop of 30 feet. ’ The competitor, with his wooden runners! strapped to his feet, slides rapidly down’ the crevice, acquiring momentum with every yard of the descent, until he literally is a flies down the slope with the speed of an express train. When he reaches the “hop”, he tal a flymg leap in the air, lands skillfully, after a flight of from 50 feet to. 1) feet, on the soft snow, and at a still higher speed, due to the momentum of his leap, Hashes down the rest of the course and sails away over the flat surf. of thé" lake, until by a dextero: to a stop. Until the s turn h comes recent contest the male and female competitions were distinct, but on* oc this asion the sexes ¥ against each ot “queen of ski-ers,” darting down the slope with the grace and switiness of a Ww, Shot over the platform and never d in until she had traversed ards. MILLIONATRES.” ore or; allowed to when Miss ne Wouldn't Go London or New York. Berlin Letter in Wilmington News, The differences in the unit of money in Far ta Gifferent countri ait. | ference in the ing of the word “millionai ster’s Dictionary defines a millionaire 5 wealth is counted by millions.” In popular use | cne who has a million is regarded as a mil- | Hon: In the United States It would be $1,090,000. In England it would be £1,000,000 sterling. But the pound ling is worth $4.56 and a fraction in our money the Englishman would require nearly five times as much actual capital the Amert- can before the Englishman could take rank in the noble army of martyrs known as “mnillionaires. n Germany, where the unit of valuo > mark, which is worth 23 cents and a n in’ our money, much less actual ul is required to make a man a mile re than in the United St I haa this fact impressed upon me by reading in per that according to the Book of Berlin, that city habitants contains 2,002 person who has an in- n 36,000 marks being reck- a millionaire. Thirt; ix thousand Jess than $9,000— “a year | | oned nd | to me to be a rather all “‘mil- re” income. I found, however, by a | Tapid computation, that 36,000 marks is a | ¥ttle more than 31 per centum on 1,000,000 n Ss (about $240,000) you have your millionaire according to the German unit value. srding to the same authori- | ty ther 3 aires” in | Bertin— Ss, So that of ionaire has a 1.000 marks, or about $720,000 | each, he income of 1 wealthiest man in Berlin has an , OF roughly $400.2 | 00. Only s © Secret of Perfect Breaded Chops. From the Kansas City Star. Few know the secret of cooking breaded jchops to perfection, and many fail en- tirely or are prejudiced against them be+ cause they make the serious mistake of | Cooking them throughout in the frying pan, whereas they should merely be finished off jin this way, in deep boiling fat. “Frenchea”* |chops, thick and juicy, are proper for breading, and should first be broiled for | five minutes over a hot, clear fire, counting cach fire ten between take from the t melted but time of turning, then’ baste thoroughly with allow them to stand for j }ten minut then roll first in fine sifted j bread crumbs, then in egg and fry as | directed. They should take on a rich gold- Jen brown almost at once, and will thus |not be overdone by the second cooking. | When these chops are placed in the center of a meund of mashed potatoes they form & Very appetizing dish, If to six good-sized petatoes half a cup of hot cream is added, as well as a small tablespoonful of butter, the potaives properly dried and salted be- fore mashing. the whole whipped in a hot vessel over the fire, the potatues will be as perfect as the chops. Beefsteak and onions.—This is essentially a cold weather dish, and the steak should be broiled, not fried. The onions should be cut in thin slices, fried brown in hot bacon fat, most of the fat poured off, a layer of onions left in the bottom of the paff, the cooked steak put in, then a layer of onions on top, the whole put in a hot oven for five minutes, when it is ready to serve. ———_+ e+ —___ Had Several Alibins. From the Karsas City Journal, 1 Francis Lockwood of England, whose death was announced yesterday from Lon- don, was one of the best story tellers I ever heard,” said Attorney Henry Wollman yes- terday. “He was at Saratoga in 18% with Baron Russell, lord chief justice of Eng- land, and won great prominence and popu- larity during his stay there. He could tell a story better than Chauncey Depew, and that is saying a great deal. “At a dinner party one evening he was relating anecdotes of some of his early ex~- periences, and told of once defending a man for murder. One of the strong points he made was an alibi, which he thought was a good one. After the case went to the jury, in a conversation with the judge he asked him what he thought of the alibi. The judge said he thought it doubtful if the jury accepted it, and then Sir Francis replied: “That's too bad, for I had half a dozen eee’ alibis just as good that I could have sed.” “Every one laughed at the remark, and it found its way into the newspapers the fol- lowing morning. Baron Russell intimated to Sir Francis that he had made an error, and if the printed story got back to Eng- lend it might cause harsh comment, as the British idea of jesting might not catch the point.” He—“I love you, Miss Peach, ardently, passionatelY, madly.” She—“Nonsense, Mr. De Sever; you are hardly acquainted with me.” He—“I know, but then—why, that’s the reason, don’t you know.”—Bos- ton Transcript. ’