Evening Star Newspaper, May 2, 1891, Page 14

14 ie f THE EVENING STAR: WASHINGTON, D.C, SATURDAY, MAY 2, 1891—SIXTEEN PAGES. THE SUMMER CAMPAIGN Artistic Combinations to Adorn At- tractive Women. SOME OF THE LATEST STYLES. Spring Gowns, Graceful and Airy—A Comfort- able Deshabilie Costume —Jackets and Capes—Crepon and Bengaline—The Draping ef Skirts, ‘Written for The Evening Star. S THE SEASON progresses one hardly knows which way to look first, so much is there to be seen, both catdoors and in. Prep- arations for open-sir fetes go on space and the costumes intended for them unite style and artistic effects tos high degree. My at- tention was called to three such wilets, which will make their appearance in May. One was « white cloth costume with straight collar embroidered with gold, and with it was to be worn @ redingote in heliotrope Dengaline with deep cuffs embroidered with gold and atiny eapote in gold thread with black sigrette; the second was a tailor-made jacket in beige cloth, th, yellow rice straw hat fwith black bows and. feathers, and. the third was adress in egg-plant purple cloth, opening upon a plastron of bengaline in same tone, trimmed et the bottom with gold galloon and Is, and to be worn with it a Henry II cape black velvet, revers and collar in mave satin embroidered with pearls and gold, large rice straw hai, trimmed with spring flowers. With this brief description of these three very stylish outdoor costumes, I'll turn my thoughts to i door dresses and begin by calling your atte tion to the charming combination toilet sot at the head of this article asthe initial illus- vr tration. A CHARMING comBrINATION. Tt consists of broad pekin in faille and satin of pearl gray hue, made redingote style, with motifs of gray gimp set in each side. The redingote is worn over a front and train of exquisitely draped crepe de chine of similar shade. deep cuffs, reaching almost to the elbow and ornamented with silk and silver em- broidery, aro to be much affected. Sleeves, although possibly a little less in maintain their high position in spite of the outcry raised avainst them as being inartistic and destroying the symmetry of the igure. Laceplastrons, yokes and berthas, jabot effects in crepe de chine, corselets with embroidered ornaments in gold, silver or jet, and figured stuffs, whether in silk or wool, such are some of the distinguishing features of the passing show in the world of fashion. Grays in all tones, gray blnes, chamois, dark blue, cocoa brown, changeable stuffs, glace taffeta and surah, glaces with a satin ground, damask bengaline with satin ficures are to be lar; no more plaids; shaded striped stuffs FoR tates thar plnoe. Basques in velvet and lace and also in same matertal as costume will remain long on the hips. The panniers which I have predicted come slowly, bat you will see them in costumes of light materiai, which call for broken lines to relieve the plainness of the akirt, ‘THE DESHADILLE pictured in the second illustration is fall of that suggestive refinement which should always be the underlying idea of such a garment. A deahabills of this character bespeaks elegant leisure and harmonizes with cultivated sur- Foandings. Some one has said that you must never judge ®person, man or woman, by the clothes worn in public places, for you might reach the con- clusion that everybody y inhabi Villa with marble corridors. The well-dressed woman, however, whether rich or poor, is very much opposed to that ennouncement, “not fit to be sven,” 20 often sent down staize to, the unexpected caller. This particnlar i isin pale green merveilleux, opening over an Underskirt of white lace with panels of capu- cine velvet. A deep belt of capucine velvet forms s kind of corselet, while the sleeves are of lace. ‘The apron is of cream tulle embroid- a ‘and worn over a foundation of pinkiab silk. & VERY PRETTY costcxr, in ivory crepe embroidered with lozenges, is set forth in the third A narrow ruching of lace borders the hem of | the skirt and an i waist. silken lozenges. The co: front and pointed behin: ing trimmed berthawise On the right side the tulle overskirt caught up bya bunch of rosebuds. The ceinture was broad gold galloon. FOR HOUSE DRESSES. The shanghai foulards make up very pret- tily for house dresses in princess style with lace yokes. The cut-out at the neck is trim- med with « ruche of lace and so also are the cuffs. The lace yoke réaches quite to the arm- holes, and the corsage is made with braces which meet those from the back and are joined on the shoulder with small buttons or olives. The sleeves are of lace with shoulder pieces of the foulard reaching nearly to the elbow. IN ROSE COLORED BENGALINE. The last illustration of this article sets forth & very handsome costume in pale rose colored bengaline, with trimmings of gauze chiffon and ® narrow outline of rose petals on the V cutout. There is a broad ceinture of satin with narrow bands reaching up to the should- ers and crossed at the back bracewise, and also & narrow band of satin at the throat. Around the edge of the skirt there is = narrow box Pleating of speckled gauze. Areally very protty costume in malachite green woolen crepon attracted my attention the other day. It was made princess style. There was a deep box plaited ruffle at the bot- tom of the skirt and above it four rows of dark freen gallon, with an effect as if the material had apparentiy been run with it. Two rows of the garniture were spplied in the same manner just below the waist line and four bows on the ust and two at the cuffs. With this dress was worn a charmingly original sleeveless jacket in dark green velvet, with long, crenelated basques, the front cut away so as togive a Plastron effect to the dress matcrial.. This velvet jacket was ornamented with a double shoulder cape and Medici coilar of the crepon, opened wide in front, trimmed with the loon as described, making up s most stylish costume for an outdoor fete or for an early use at a summer resort. Instead of such a jacket as I have described some will prefer one of the fashionable man- telets, coquettishly ruched with lace, or if you so prefer, entirely made of lace, set off with ribbons and having a passementerie yoke, either in steel or jet, or both. The long redingote, adjusted to the figure, will also be Popular, but it doem't look well except on fies with slender figures. No lady need be lost for materials to choose from nowadays. Every year the looms seem able to surpass the efforts of the year before. The exquisitely printed delaines, the lovely tinted cashmeres, the floral sateens, the soft | aud pliable bengalines, which are so eaiisfactory for draping, to say nothing of the foulards, surahs and wash silks, enable the most fastid- ious to find something to their liking. JACKETS AND CAPES. Charming jackets in husear blue cloth, with gold braiding, made with deep revers, will be met with the moment the season opens. Some | of these jackets will have elaborate embroidered effects, both on revers and sleeves, and all openwork designs will be laid upon white flan- nel to set them off. With some of these jackets you will see blue silk cordeliers knotted grace- fully in front, with ite ball ornaments hanging down below the waist line. ‘Three-quarter | capes, too, promise to be popular, made up in cloth of some modish color and having a ti fitting pointed voke which extends to the waist at the back. I have seen them in tan cloth and | black velvet, the high collar being edged with | feather trimming. Another style of cape was | made up in peach-tinted cloth, pleated straight | around on @ black velvet yoke, which was bor- | dered top and bottom’ with black ostrich | feathers. i ‘Veus are now either illusion or point d'esprit. The irregularly spotted veil no longer findsany | place in the toilet of the well-dreseed _woma Fichus in white India crepe with wide garni- | ture of lace are worn with silk and satin gowns. The long basques, which will continue to hold | ir place in public favor. will be cut away at | the back so as to allow the full display of the drapery of the skirt. Those who pretend to be | well posted assure us that the leading confec- | tioners of costumes have no intention of chang- ing the present style of draping the ekirt at the | back and that the pouff is as far away as ever. ‘There will be, however, added gathers to crease the fulincss. ———~+e-—____ Written for The Evening Star. ‘The May Movin Little by little the world was made,— Rip up the carpet and take down the shade! ‘Tear things to pieces an’ pack 'em up tight, (On Sundass an’ off days,—mornin’ and night! (Let's hope you're @ Christain an’ swear it’s all ri » Roll up the beadin’ an’ pack up the books,— (Thunder an’ lightuin’, how everything looks!)— ‘Smash goes a pitcher,—one less ter pack,— ‘Take down the pictures,—one falls, ker whack! (Let's hope when you're moved you'll not wantto get back!) "Tis said that in rollin’no stone gathers moss, So I take it that movin’ We've moved to the west,— May this move we're makin’ be found to be best, And give us at lastahome and rest. CAM is made at a loss,— east an’ we've moved to the last Saturday morning, ‘“‘did yer see Sary?” “Skinny” was about the only one of his kind who got into the theater and saw Bernhardt, “What did yer tink uv her?" and half a dozen newsboys crowded around him to hear jcess at the start by getti ON AND OFF THE STAGE Will Variety Faroes Hold Their Pop- ularity Another Year? ACTORS OBJECTS OF CHARITY. undertook, without of success, to embody the childish of one sister and the dainty meeps | of the other. The an- dience was a dist ly fashionable assemblage, pearly all feminine, and their gentle but heart? ga; of the formers was a curious ex- hibition friendly r ridicule. Two professional actors had been engaged to play wi teurs. One of these was Courtnay Thorpe, who wears a false hand in place of the lost member, and the other was Eugene Ormond, whose role required ‘him to keep“ presumably arm in . wounded Statue to Charlotte Cushman—How Young Girls Lower the Stage—They Will Not Al- ways Think Themselves Fortunate, Written for The Evening Star. New Yon, May 1, 1891. (PEatRicar NEWS TODAY CONSISTS of prophecy rather than actual happen- ings. Managers and actors alike are looking forward eagerly toward next season. The question most frequently heard is: Will the’ variety show farces hold their popularity throngh another winter? Yes and no are equally used in the reply. Indced nobody knows. But a letter received from a New Eng- land insane asylum makes it sure that at least one of tho violently grotesque farcical per- formers will not resume. He is Tom Daly, ono of those Daly brothers who used to cut such furious capers in “Vacation.” ‘Tom introduced some knock-about feats, and one of these con- sisted of aleap from a springboard tos con- cealed mattress, where he struck on his back. It was a rough anddifficult thing todo and very often he fell on the back of his neck. The repeated concussion to his brain resulted in inine companion, evidently a partisan of the amateurs. “Why, each of the mal actors wins with one hand tied behind him.” LOWERING THE STAGE. Don't let us make fun of those players who sincerely desire to “elevate the stage.” Alas! there are eo many who are lowering it. Words such as were uttered bya little chorus singer of an opera company as she sat at a Inte cham- Pagne supper in a Broadway restaurant are not encouraging to the true philanthropist of moral bent. “I like life now,” said she; “it never was 80 thoroughly fascinating to me before. Iwasa Jong time coming to this business and tried for Years to get along in ways that the world calla Fespectable. My experience was not pleasant. First I learned typewriting. It took me a year before I was competent to fill a position, and then I got €7a week. I was confined all day and was so tired at night that I could not hel being cross and blue when I got home. haven't a model character, but give me just little brightness and leisure and I don’t make people about me uncomfortable. I never got any brightness and leisure when T was type- writing and I was porfectly aware that I was growing sour and melancholy. After two years of ixpewriting I was getting $10 a week. Y had nothing else in life but those ten dollars. I insanity and for months he has beon secluded in an asylum, almost hopeless of recovery. NO TIGHTS ALLOWED. At least one of the managers of theaters pro- Poses to have something to say as to the char- acter of the visiting companies. He owns new temple of Thespis at Worcester, and in- stead of antagonizing the clergy and their con- ions he proposes to make them friendly. le writes to all the booking agencies in this city that they need calculate upon sending no “leg shows” (which, being interpreted, means plays in which tights are “needlessly worn) to is house. Even in cases of operas and dramas wherein the women may legitimately expose “their nether limbs,” as the Minnesota bill ex- presses it: he stipulates that the hosiery must ofa plain black or dark color, ‘so that na- kedness shail not be simulated. THE ROW OF THE WEEK in theatrical matters is about Arthur Dacre. He is the actor who was declared incompetent by Mrs. Leslie Carter and discharged from her employ. He is suing her for salary during his ensuing idleness, but the new rumpus is not connected with that legal squabble. Actorsare apt to have queer notions of self-dependence. Dacre received $1504 week while with Mra. Carter. Since his dismissal he has had offers ranging from $50 to 875, but he disdainfully de- clines to lower his fixed rate of wages. How- ever, his dignity not prevent him from going to other English players in town, repre- senting his impecunious condition to them, and soliciting thei to appear at acharity matinee for his benefit. Rosina Vokes, Rose Coghlan and the Kendals all promised to do so, and the entertainment was advertised. It is now indefinitely postponed. Miss Vokes found | out, #0 she said, that her strength would not rmit her to give an extra performance. hen Miss Coghlan discovered that as she was going to play regularly in the seme theater this week it wouldn't be proper for her to take part there at aspecial matinee. Finally, the endals sent acheck for a hundred dollars along with their politely expressed regret that they could not act on the occasion. Dacre has | bad to redeem the tickets sold and as to the preliminary expenses incurred—well, the row relates to their settlement. The curious thing about it, of course, ia the readiness of forcign actors to become’ objects of public churity her than work for less pay than they believe tnselves to be worth. Américansare not thus affected, as « rule, by employment on the stage. STATUE OF CHARLOTTE CUSHMAN. America’s greatest actress, if judged by her public performance and private character alike, may possibly get a public monument soon. An association has just been formed to raise money for a statue of Charlotte Jushman. The figure to be r presented is already settled upon. It is a bronze likeness, heroic im size, of | the Miss, Cush: in the chareeter of Lily Macbeth. A small clay model been made and photographed. It looks well. ‘The actress is pored c ty, her face is an excel- lent portrait tal holds b height which, in the fincl construction, would make the whole thing sixteen feet high. Ci tral Park is the place chosen to put it in. All | this is easy enough to arrange. But about the | mouey! An encrgetic committee hus made something of accuvass. ‘They met with suc KO promise of & thousand dollars from Edwin Booth. ‘Then they were hopeful, for only $15,009 was wauted | altogether. But ‘the further encouregement has been next to nothing. Other folks than munugers and actors wem averse to honoring an actress. Several of our foremost million. aires’ wives have positively declined to give thing, and others have put off an answer. The theatrical people themselves are gener ally too poor to be liberal, and #0 hurd’ wor remains to be done if Cushman is to be glor fied. Still, the projectors are not going to give it up, and they declare that the statue shall be erected. G0oD STORIES AND PLaye. Three playwrights, Augustus Thomas, Sidney Rosenfeld and Clay M. Greene, were enjoying a dinner with wine atthe Lambs club. som: how they hit on the idea of amalgamating the anecdotes of the occasion, with others, in farce. ‘Therenpon they agreed to each wi an act of the projected eS and use true inci- dents only. A manager, Chas, Frohman, was so taken with the scheme, and he deemed sample stories so funny, that he agreed to @ thousand dollars for the manuscript G put iton the stage and to let it stand against that much of royalties in case he did exploit it. Well, the farce will not be used. The three writers have received the thousand dollars and the disappointed manager will lose it. ‘The threo stories didn’t make a good play. Yet they were good, end hore is onc of the Augustus Thomas kad just kad a play pro- duced and he was being waylaid by out-of-part actors. Avery old and ugly actress showed some fight when put off and so he took her card to pacify her. card, which bore a Jewish name, in hi ing he would send money to be forfeited if he decided not to FeoUches of stone, upon which the swimmers hat for her if something turned up. Tuat night he supped with a lot of actors, one of whom was a man whore cameo profile and muscular frame his opinion. “Well,” said “Skinny,” slowly, “wen "t comes ter bowin’ an’ pointin’ an’ actin’ she’s cht, but as fer talkin'—w'y she ain't in it, see? “My baby brudder’s only ‘ten months an’ Ikin understan’ more he says than ‘at she did.” Post. “It was like this: I goes into the Wellington for lunch. Just as I'm sitting down in comes Jack Austin, the closest old skinflint in six counties. Well. he sitsdown at my table and says he'll tell me a funny story. I size it up that he’s getting into me for the lunch, see? I only have about $3.50 in my clothes, see? I let him order first, and he goes and orders wood- cock and things like fap to $5.25. This kind of freezes me, and so I tell him I'm feel- ing sick, and all I want is a cup of coffee and some crackers. That costs a quarter and makes the bill up to the limit of my pile, see? Well, funny stories, and pretty soon the waiter makes out two checks, with a total of €3.50. “ ‘Here,’ says Jack, ‘give me your check. I'll pay for the lunch.” “Now, I call that one of the most dastardly jokes. If T had he was going to do snything like thet ‘would have eaten shout $6 we ——+-e-+—____ ‘The Sacrifice No Longer Needed. the Chicaxo Tribune. aiter,” he said, in a low tone, and looking cautiously about him, “I haven't had time to read the papers this morning. Is this muss From tration. | with the Eyetalian government still going on.” “T think it's about settled,” replied the ribbon ties around the | waiter. “Not going to be any fight?" “No; there isn't the slightest prospect of any g. mark him for admiration. We wil! call him King. Across the room two pretty girls supped, One, a dark-eyed Jewess, cast sweet glances at King and—ob, well, King returned them in kind. “The flirtation was interrupted ‘by an imperative mesage to King from a man in the way. parture to catch his train for the place where his wife a vaited hin. “By Jove, oy” said ‘Thomas, when the ty broke up, “King toa my hat. Pélicanwhile, King had Kissed his wife and said wearily: “Take my things, slousy.” Mousy spoke back something pretty. Then her oyes became riveted upon the hat she held. —a—ah, sir!” said she. “What?” sid he, —gain,” sai 18. Wane Sines hg ek om ereut, Wil janer bat band a card. o,”" shouted King, “I am innocent.” King observed the name. It was Jewish. He remembered the pretty Jewess and thought he took in the situation. That girl had slipped her card into his hat while he went out to sce the man! Clever While he protested to his wife he cursed for not having found the card before. King got into town early next morning and Inter he turned up at the theater ins bad temper. Nobody knows any more, but it is wondered if he called on the ugly’ old, actress and what happened when he ‘that she wasn’t the pretty girL WORK OF AMATEURS. The amateurs of this city most distinguished by wealth and social eminence gave an enter- tainment in one of our theaters this week. ‘They performed in three short and easy come- dies. It would be unkind to name the five ladies in truth ats F 8, & knew only a few girls and men as poor as my- self and I was never in a mood for enjoyment. I did not continue at typewriting, because I got achance to go intoamilliner's shop on 5th avenue as sales woman. This was refined work enough, but it gave me no opportunities" to out and see any of the attractive part of life. However, while I was at the Sth avenue shop I thrived so well that my figure improved and I suppose my face brightened up a bit. 1 used to sell hats to Miss R— of the theater, you know, and she would chat with me when she came in. ‘One day she asked me why I didn't go on the stage. It had never occtirred to me that I could, but she said I might very easily get a chance in the chorus and told me to go to her manager and have my voice tried, that she would speak to him about me. Well, I had my voice tried, and here I am. Now I want to know if I haven't the right to be better satisfied with my present position than when 1 was typewriting or in the milliner's shop. All my friends aud my family think it such frightful thing that 1am on the stage. Why should they, when I am happier, when I can be better natured all the time and when I am not buried away from everything that makes life worth living? I really cannot see why I should not be congratulated.” SHE WILL NOT ALWAYS THINK 80. And the young woman raised her wine glass to her lips. Her pretty hand was covered with gems and the eyes of nearly all the men in the restaurant were turned upon her face. She made a picture of great beauty and content- ment and by no possibility could she under- stand that at that moment her life was prob- ably far more unfortunate than it had been during the gloomy days of her previous dull labors. She was a dangerous and deplorable figure of complacent sensuality. She hud thrown off the yoke that she might have borne into a tranquil old age and was blooming like a flower, whose triumph is invariably short and whose beauty is continually dy taurants of upper Broadway with many just such girls. fuled at night ‘They nearly vor: aint at having plunged fe of passion and luxury. do not provide a fraitful study to the now exu all at once into a ‘They ATTRACTIVE HOMES. Everything Now is Light and Airy— Looking to the Summer. PREPARING FOR HOT WEATHER How = Room May Be Made to Look Cool and Comfortable by the Judicious and Tasteful Employment ef French Chints for Furni- ture Coverings and Draping. ‘Written for The Evening Star. THILE NATURE IS IN THE MOST alluring state, and our city is in the height of its annual spring beauty, we might be content to walk and drive and gaze on all the loveliness spread out around us. On the contrary now is the busy time of planning and Preparing for the summer hegira, and one’s time is so fully occupied with shopping and such cares that really one seems fairly com- pelled at times to be oblivious of all the charms of spring in making ready for the charms of the later season. All about are to be found the evidences of this preparation for flight, and the shops are doing their share to have peo- ple spend their summer outing with every ap- pliance near for comfort and recreation. All sorts of conveniences for travelers abound, and every device for pleasantly whiling away warm weather has apparently been thought of. SUMMER XEEDLEWORK. A most tempting array has beon arranged on all sides for summer needlework, and never were prices lower or ideas prettier than in the Present display for the coming scason’s work. It is only too easy to think one will surely be industrious with all these incentives before one, and with of the very latest notions is the making of brush and comb trays of linen duck. The china trays are beyond the means of some people who like pretty things as well as the fortunate ones who can gratify their fancies. Surely every one, however, can have one of the dainty—and ‘eminently summery—tra made of an oblong piece of duck bound witl linen tape and with 4 simple little design em broidcred on them in colored silke. When all this is done, the corners having been cut out before binding and a button hole having been maile in each side, the four sides are bent. up to form a rim, a ribbon is put through the but- ton holes and'the rim thns fastened at each corner by the ribbon tied in a bow, making a complete tray in shape andeffect. In the same manner, ona smaller scale, hairpin trays or Jewel trays could be made. ' These brush and comb trays, stamped ready for working, can be bought for ten cents and make an attractive little nov in the working and using. low stemleas buttercups grouped d tied with yellow ribbons, or one in clover leaves, tied with sage grecn ribbons, or, indeed, any other combination of flower and color, will be effective for the work bestowed onit. Ofcourse the embroidery is done with wash silks, and by taking out the ribbons the tray can be washed and pressed at any time. A PRETTY WORK BAO. A pretty bag to carry such work around in is made of linen, pillow-case shape, with one of the large flowers painted in tapestry dyes and then outlined in button-hole stitch with vein- ing of leaves and petals applied to one side. ‘This may be of brilliant or subdued colori but in cither case is suitable for a summer w penduge to one’s arm, holding as it wiil all the sewing outfit, the work ineluled, if not of over large proportion. Isxwahandsome bag the other day. very piain, but of elogant materials The bug was made of a heavy tapestry which bumibie and patient workers of looked as if “eloch of gold” might weil be its #8 one product of the shallow and itl-regulated | name, and was plainly made character common to a large portion of the | sh The deep +h lowly born females of a capital lixe New York | \ they are interesting. ‘The pa has been herewith introduced wi from the chorus and upper Lroadw: very few years, five years at the most. she has faded to uo one will know, but one any philospher might be confident of, and that | would be tnt she nolonger regard: champagne | suppers and the stare of men as the treasures that make life an endless joy. SOME VERY ANCIENT BATHS, A Model of Them Eeing Set Up at the Museum of Hygiene. D R. WALES IS SETTING UP AT THE Army Medical Muscum a most interesting | model of certain an oman baths, the | remains of which have recently been dug up at | ath, England, having been constructed at a | Period some litile time before the birth of Ubrist. From a date so far back that history | has no record of it the baths of Bath have been used for their medicinal effects. When the in- vaders from Rome came they built great struc- | tures on the spot, which for centuries have been | buried beneath rv Lately the spade and | the pickax have been set at work to dig out the remains, and most interesting relics have been exposed. ihe model at the mnseum shows only a part of the original buiidiuge, which are represented so far as they have been unearthed, in the very of middle part of the cit; streets crossing at a hi shown in the oldest built sec ment that was heated by. fir th, the present level. There is on a vast apart= belo aud in which the bathers of twenty centuries paut enjoyed the pleasures of unlimited perspi- radion. Attached to this were « big cold plunge sixty feet in length. Subsequently, aa the building’ plans show, another great structure was added on, witha! swimming tub 100 feet in length, wherein the bathers might disport themselves. Along both sides of this huge plunge bath were high m plunges and might recline and be scraped with knives, in the old Roman fashion, by slaves, ‘hus fur the building described is prehistoric, but the next addition that was made to it is known to have been erected in the year 1627. It contains further provisions for bathing, of a similar nature, and to the whole has been added within the last few yearsa huge edifice that ineludes a “pump room,” where people come to drink, and a number of single bath rooms, in which frequenters may find private quarters and tubs to themselves. "Very interesting it is to observe tho way in which these several parts of this ancient establishment have been added on, each one being at a higher elcvation than the next of earlier date, because of the coverin up of the old-time buildings with the dust and ruins of centuries. come eee How She Resisted Arrest. From the Lewiston Journal. ‘They are telling a tory that the tax collector payment of taxes and that he attempted to make the arrest when on the highway. The young woman, being in excellent health, by no means fragile or of insignificant avoirdupois, sat right down on the snow and refused to make any exertion to help herself. ‘Tho tax collector is not a giant and he couldn't lift her. It is not recorded how hard he lifted, but ho didn’t move her, and an arrest was lost by in- sufficient constabuiary. Very Swell. | Tudia silk in one of bag three through which were of rope silk loosely anese gold thread was into this cord, which was tied in bows and which casily it slipped throuch tne rigs on the ontside, where it aleo made the decoration of the bag. A NEAT BUREAU COVER. A pretty bureaa cover has been lately made and this same cord used asa finish with good effect. A swell front bureau of old oak has | acover in eachet style just ng the top, | which haw a brass rail on the sides that would | intertere with a rearf. ‘The cover is of blue | art shades, tufted with ae color and with this | narrow ribbon of the #: wly twisted coi soft, I 1 of rope silk eg it, with bows and endeas each froat | corner. The cushion is a rourd one of good | size, with a top of biue plush and frill of ed blue silk doubled so a narrow ruitie | ‘omes.at the top and one edge of the frill is a | little lower than the other, thus making two rows of fringe, one above the other. ‘The biue rete off the ornaments of the burean,serves bet- ter than a white scarf ever ean ‘and seems inuch more ornamental for a guest room, as this is, than one with less color about it. A PRETTY FRENCH CHINTZ PATTERN. Twas much taken the other day with some French chintz I saw in the various stripes usual in that material. One stripe was a pretty blue, alteruating with cream. str ink roses and gray. bh and then appagenily flo the next bunch. ‘The design and for some reason the changed from 50 cents, the usual one for th: quuiity, 1 believe, to 35 cents. It was really very cheap for the goods, which are fast colors, and in my mind's cye alittle “chintz ; jer temporary or village permanent home. Chintz, andchintz only, would be permitted in the ‘apartinent, which should have matting on the floor and as many pieces of upholstered furniture as might be accommodated. Every one of these artiel should have a frilied ‘corner, a big ¢: chair in Turkish style, having 4 loose cover, with deep frill “coming to the floor, all nround. A sofa to be perfect in this sty! should have a square-cornered frame—not necessarily with springe—but with rather high back and rolling arms. if possible, wndet which round pillows, with ruffles around. the ends, should be put. and tho sofa frill. iteelf should reach to the floor. If any old-fash- ioned chairs with mahogany backs are to be had put covers over the seats, with deep frill all around. not, however, coming anywhere near the floor on these small chairs, but, say, eight or nine inches deep. CURTAINS OF THE SANE MATERIAL. Curtains should hang at the windows of the chintz, ruffled down the front edges and across the bottom, which should well clear the floor. ‘These should be held back with bands of the same rafiled on cach edge and a rutile should also be the finish at the top, taking the place of arod. A square and round ottoman with top covers and frills reaching tothe floor would be additions to the room. For wall treatment it would be pretty to have gray blue cartridge or ingrain paper, with curtain ‘dado of the chintz. ‘his latter is what the name implies, nuot very full curtain, hanging for the depth of three ‘ands half feet trom the floor. It is fastened to the walls by rin shade of rather light bes in which lue_ ribbons running on a | of them’ are. |linen that you conld not have told they rew up the bag as | ing to the nettle family, sometimes called the | well as without it where uch chintz is used. Sash curtains of muslin with fine dotted effect. and hung soas to be simply pushed back to nce of the furnishings ‘would come’ in many det which Ihave left out in this brief summary, wi nothing in the way of ornament solely has been touched The idea, however, might be elaborated ‘and «really charming room gotten up at small outlay of money, as the chintz is so inexpensive, and probably old furniture would furnish. suitable shapes to em- bellish in this way. Of all things not to left however, is a lamp with pretty . I saw just lately such a pretty lamp in what is called bouquet shape, of silver, and for only $3.50. This is something like a Rochester burner, so is a good light giver. New styles of wire frames for shades are shown, some square and others somewhat like a Chinese la in shape, either of which is pretty. vm silk under cream lace gives a lovely soft light and would best suit the room just indicated. ———-oe______ WHAT RAMIE WILL MAKE. 4 Marvelous Fiber of Which Great Things Are Expected One of These Days- bade talk the other day with Mr. Bur- gese, the famous Boston yacht builder,” said Mr.Charles Richards Dodge to a writer for ‘Tar Stax, ‘and he remarked incidentally that he thought ramie fiber was hkely to be utilized in the not distant future as a material for yacht sails. He seemed to think that sucha fabric might be produced as light and strong as silk, which would serve for the purpose bet- ter than any kind of stuff thus far employed. I myself would not be surprised if it should so turn out, though I hazard no prediction. One advantage claimed for ramie sail cloth is that it will not mildew. “Ramie is a provoking substance to deal with. It isa most beautiful fiber, susceptible of use in making ever so many sorts of exqui- site fabrics. The world wants it, but unfortu- nately, though the plant that produces it is one of the most easily grown and prolific vege- tables known, no machine or process has thus far been devised for reducing the raw material to marketable shape at a cheap enough rate to pay. There would be no end of the material obtainable, but at present it costs more to turn out the fiber in condition for manufacture than it will sell for. Fortunes have been spent in trying to devise a machine capable of separat ing it from the stalks and leaves at an econom- ical price, but thus far in vain. SIX KINDS IN CHINA. “The Department of Agriculture has just re- ceived, through the Department of State, samples from China, forwarded by United States Consul Henry W. Adams at Hankow, of ali the six kinds of ramie grown in that country, where alone it is cultivated at a profit, though the production is limited. From this source the commercial supply of the fiber that reaches Enrope and the ‘United States. is obtained, Labor, of course, costs almost nothing there, and the operation of preparing the material for market is performed by stripping the fresh cUt stalka of the leaves, scr ing off the outer bark and then peeling off. with bamboo knives, the fibrous inner bark, which yields the marketable article in small ribbons. Finally, these ribbons are boiled for a while in lye water and spread upon the roofs of the houses | todry. Thus obtained. the ramie is delivered jhere and purchasable, in «mail quantities, « 83g cents a pound.’ By this method, it is | said, less than two pounds of the rib- bons ean be produced by one man's labor jforaday. The samples we have secured in- clude four varieties besides the white and the green ramie, which reach our shores through commerce. ‘We shall carefully preserve them in the fiber collection for comparison. ARTICLES FROM RAMIE. “Here are some articles made of ramie that may interest you. These are laces for curtains, of very beautiful texture, as you may see; and these are white goods of various kinds, closely resembling fine muslins and other such stuffs. Here 18 a bundle of dress goods samples of nu | patterns; take notice how sheer and silky some Are not these napkins #0 like | vere | ee not such if I had not informed you? bed spreads and all similar househol -an betnadvof ramie. In this packageare esand upholstery goods, for hangings, lara- wand so forth: Even carpets of the same ma are most handsome and serviceable, the latter made in this country. WHAT IT 18. “What is ramie? Why, it isa plant belong- stingless nettle, which has been cultivated in | China from time immemorial. It is also known as Chit ss. When full grown it at height of from four to eight feet. The fiber is formed in the bark of the stalk, which hasa y ceater. So fast does it grow that three n five crops a year have been obtained | out replanting. “In China it is“ manufac- | nio cordage, fish lines, nets and | a wi tured not on! like coarse products, but also into numerous | it 1 most delicate and lo: y fabrics. EASILY CULTIVATED. “It has been estimated that an acre of ramie one year old will produce 27,600 pounds of stripped stalks, but, to separate the fiber from | the product of fifty aeres, a single machine of | the best pattern thus far devised would require | ayear anda half—simply for one cutting, mind you. Cultivation at this rate is out of the question, inasmuch as the machines are very expensive, costing £1,000 apiece or so, and the farmer could not afford to buy and use very many. The problem is one to which | American’ inventors wili do well to turn their | attention. Ramie, in the raw, ean be raised in unliaited quantities at a small expenditare. In its marketable shape there is already a con- siderable demand for it at reasonable prices, | particularly in Europe. Let some ingeniou: Yankee find out how to transform the | material into fiber cheaply and | his discovery will make him rich, uniess perchance he disposes of it prematurely to the capitalist, who commonly devours the fruits of a poor man’s inventions. Let the proper coutrivance for the purpose be once rendered available and immediately the raising of ramie will become one of the foremost agricultural industries of this country, as well as abroad. Fog many decades past ‘there have Leen periodical announcements of the discovery of | practicabie machines for rendering the fiber economically, but none of them has panned out upon trial. ‘There are now in this country a number of devices which have been adver- tised to accomplish the purpose, but, although their inventors have been invited to submit them to test at the Department of Agriculture, they nave not responded and we cannot speak with authority concerning them. In many instances farmers have been persuaded by manufacturers of machines to plant ramie and they have — lost ir ‘crops and their Inbor because the means for transforming the crude product _ into the marketable article were not available. If you wanted to start a manufactory of ramie goods tomorrow you could not buy for money enough of the fiber to supply you for any length of time, because so little of it is grown. There is» firmin Salem, Mass., that has formed a plan, comparatively cheap, for reducing the fibrous parte of the Plant into a wool-like sub- stance from which nice yarnsfor certain classes of manufacture have been produced, and some- thing may come of it. entually, there is that ramie culture profitable basis. It affords promise of such enormous renumeration if only the desired rocess .can be arrived at that effort is not fikely to be relinquished until the hoped-for mac! E brass rod and covered by a dado rail, which t be, I should thi made by @ picture rod turned a0 that the grooved part co | i i i fH i i i I i 5 i yi i é E id yeh i i i i : i ht > 5 j é i if Ail é fi i | i F i HH vt E Fag 5a: i | they are followers of the Presid | the man, by hi GEN. HARRISON'S TRIP. Marvel at the Number and Speeches He Makes. prsmest HARRISON'S WHEEL ABOUT the circle which is now in progress has given the people who live in states at a dis- tance from the seat of government an oppor- tunity to see the man that they have all heard and read about so much. But, more than this, it gives them @ chance to listen to what is | Probably the most dificult kind of impromptu | speech making. Just stop and think about its moment. The magnificent train of Pullman care which bears the President stops at some town. Before it has reached its destination it has | paused long enough to be boarded by a recep- tion committee. This committee takes the honored guest in charge and each member thinks it incumbent upon him to talk to the ident and to point out to him every point of local interest that may be near. He has not had @ moment in which to cogitate upon this information until the the depot of the town is reached. Variety of | A MASS OF SHOUTING HUMANTTY. This depot isa mass of shouting humanity. A local brass band is bellowing forth the time- honored melody, “Hail to the Chief.” What may be wanting in melody is made up in noise. Steam whistles are screeching and cannons are booming. Through thisdin and tumult the Pres- ident is led captive to a carriage, still seoom- Panied by the garrulous committee. He is driven in triamph through the streets to = grand stand which has been erected for the cccasion. There the mayor or governor, as the case may be (sometimes both of them), de- livers a carefully prepared address of welcome. Then itis the President's turn. has not had asecond in which to prepare his speech; he has had no time to study the local peculi ties of the place, yet the audience expecta great things of him, for the local pride of small places is always colossal. ‘THE COUNTRY SITs IN JUDGMENT. Not only must the local expectations be satis- fied, but the whole United States site in judg- ment on the speech. The reporters are there and the President's words are telegraphed to every newspaper of consequence and read by nearly overyboay, often on the very day on which they were uttered, or atany rate the next morning. Now, all this is hard enough to do, but it is not all that a traveling Prosident must do in the way of speech making; for, in addition to the more important speeches made from a grand stand, he must make two, three—ves often half a dozen—apeeches from the platform of his car—spceches that must be shouted be- tween the puis of the locomotive as it were. NO MAN OUTSIDE AMERICA COULD DO IT. Is there any man outside of America who | could do this? The ordinary English states- | man under similar circumstances would go about repeating the same speech at every stopping place. A Garman statesman would take so long to get started that the train would bring his sentence to an abrupt period before the verb had been reached, for while Mr. Evarts’ sentences are long they are not cumstance to th erage The writer once heard Mr. Evarts make a P form speech in Dakota, but the glory of bi binge had to be shorn'and his sentences, like Sampson's locks, produced a weakening effect when they werecut short. A Frenchman speaking under the conditions which attend a traveling President would probably lose bis temper be- cause of the noise that is always going on and would be sure to get into had been on the roada week. There can b no doubt, therefore, that the “Pullman. pl form oratory” 1s distinctively American and can only be successtully accomplished by Americans. This severe test of a man's powers is one that nearly every President must go through with in the course of his term of office, for it has long since been a custom for the chicf magistrate to go about the conntry and let the people become familiar with his personality. PRESIDENT HARRISON'S REMARKABLE SPERCHES. As for President Harrison's jaunt it is re- markable among presidential tours—remarka- ble not only because of its unusual breadth of scope, but, also because all. people, whether jent in politics or not, seem toagree in liking his speeches. He takes his place in the front rank of our “Pullman platiorm orators.” In many respects Benjamin Harrison's trip is ike that of James Monroe, made nearly three-quarters of century ago. Monroe, however, went in coaches and on horseback | and by boat on the rivers, whereas Benjamin | Harrison travels in a hotel on wheels that rans | fitty or sixty miles an hour. Monroe received » most extraordinary ovation. The people were confronted, as the historians have told us, With an unassuming, modest man, full of years | and honors and carrying the distinction of his | high office easily and gracefully. In bis case niet and unconspicuous per- ronality, was merged into the ,reater import- ance of the high position he filled and a great wave of national patriotism swept over the country, caused by the visit of the President of the United States. WHY EE 18 HONORED. The same spectacle is presented to us now of the people who greet Benjamin Harrison and hurrah for him and go wild about him, prob- ably one-half voted against him two vents ago and would vote agai They don't see in him a party r him above all other me honor the office he holds above ic positions, Just think whata strain he must be going through! To be always on view, to be obliged to shake the fists of hundreds and thousands of ‘opie every day. and, most terrible of all, to Ee'called on for a specch every few hours and to make each speech different from th that went before. requives efforts both physicai nd mental that would kill day citizen inside of a wi fond of abusing their Pre dents must be remarkable men or they would not be able to endure what they do. But the people nre kind to a traveling Presi- dent. Indeed, the only time when they don’t abuse him is when he is their guest, As soon as he gets back to Lishome in Washington they begin to find fault with him again. —— en A Case of Mistaken Identity. From Life's Calendar. CURIOUS SLOT MACHINES, Some Wonderful Things Done by Ingenious Automatic Contrivances. "T= S858 To WiIcH SLOT MACHINES are put nowadays may weil excite astonish- ment In Paris they are scattered all through the poorer quarters of the city to supply the People with hot water. Fuel is very dear there and it is @ great saving to beable togete bucket of really boiling water by going to the next corner and drepping one sou. The same method is employed for providing the poor of Birmingham, England, with gaa A penny dropped into the meter turns on the illuminat- ing fluid for halfan hour and when that time has eapired the consumer can drop in another penny in case he wants to use the hight longer, andso on. The pian has two advantages for the jpany—it makes the payment for ae sure and the rate isa little higher by this re- tail method. As is, the case with everything, the poor mast pay the biggest price. ‘There nothing eo expensive as poverty. IT TELUA YOUR WEIomt. A new slot machine in London hase phono- graph attachment and tells your weight “You weigh 200 pounds,” it will shout, in case you tip the scales at that figure. Another English contrivance is ® small shop in itself and selle Fou automatically sixteen different articles, in- c.uding hot drinks, cold drinks, biscuit, lead neilsand postage stamps. An interesting de- ce of the sort gives you a cup of coffee in re- *ponse to a nickel. Tegeta mug, you must drop another nickel into a separate slot, where- upon the receptacle becomes available. Having drank your coffee, you put the mug back in its place and the money you bave deporited for ite use is given back to you without the interven- tion of hands. Still other machines sell you wepapers, books and cologne, afford the spectacle ofan imitation cock fight, on which you can gamble by betting on one bird or the other, and sharpen your knife if it m dull. This jast works @ little whetstone back and forth while you hold the blade. For five cents im like manner you can procure a cigar, with @ match to lightit. ‘The Union line of strect case in Baltimore has recently employed a hind of slot deviee very profitably. It sellx instead of tickets, six tokens somewhat resembling five- cent pieces, at six fora quarter. The passengers drop these ‘into slots provided for the pu all along the inside of the ears, which are tail, and they roll along to the driver's box. Since adopting this plan the company has found ite profits much greater. ‘& WONDERFUL CONTRIVARCE. There is bardly anything that you cannot de nowadays by dropping « nickel in the slot. You can try your weight or your grip, start the horses racing. bave the dice thrown, learn your fortune, play & game of freeze out, bet on the spinning roulette wheel, peep through « kabel doscope, purchase cigarettes or chewing to- bacco, buy needles and thread, collar buttons, shoo laces or what you will. The patent oftics has already granted 822 patents for slot ma- chines and more than a thousand edditional ones have been taken out in Europe and else where abroad. A firm has recently been estab- lished in Washington, under the name of the “Automatic Machine Company,” to be incor- Porated with acapital of $1,000,000, which is to manufacture such apparatus on an enormous scale with branches all over the United Rtates. The device in which it is most interested sells @ most agreeable drink of royal rock and rye to any one who drops two nickels in. This two- nickel business is a new idea, and it i# adopted because so small a coin as a dime requires much more delicate machinery, and, further- more, @ machine that can be worked by a dime will respond equally well to « S-cent picce. When the two nickels bare been dropped you pull outa handle and the liquid potation appears in « stall glass cylinder with « nickel- plated screw top. You unscrew it, imbibe and g0 away refreshed. Much emphasis is laid upon the fact that the rtuff is strictly medici- nal, and sufficient confidence is had ‘con- sumer's honor to take it for granted that he will not partake of the hospitalities of the ma- chine unless he bas either « bad cold ore stomach ache. HoT savesoR, An equally ingenious slot machine supplies the customer with « hot anusage, fresh cooked. When a nickel is dropped in out Pope = fat Frankfurter froma box and drops into boiling waier. At the same moment a sign ap) which says: “When the sausnge is done it wil be given to you. Take it with a fork and put it in the hot roll, which you will ti the little compartment to the left.” At the end of three minutes precisely the sausage makes | its appearance on a piece of perforated tin, for draining off the water, and you eat it with the roll, the fork, as weil as mustard, salt and pepper, being obtainable from 4 small eup- board.” A similar contrivance that beer and sandwiches is popular at railway sta tions in England. For five cents also you eam have your photograph taken. Yousit on chair in front of the apparatus and e polut in the glass front. Presently is vrilliant flash anda moment later a tim type drops out. THOUSAXDS OF TEARS OLD. The slot machine is no new invention. Such contrivances were known thousands of years ago. ‘The first one of the sort that there is record of was worked in Greece four centuries before Christ. It was employed for selling sacred water in the temples. Any one who wished te smnall supply of the precious tinid dropped ius through a slot ito the receptacie, which contained « small jar filled with the ter. The coins fell upon one end of a sort balance, and it req about 75 cents’ orth of ‘silver to tip it. This weight, bow- ever, would cause one extremity of the bal- ance to Le lowered, the other extremity risag and opening a valve at the bottom of the jer. ‘Thus small amount of the water was per- to escape, but only e little, because the at once fell off the end of the balance, quilibrium being restored, the valve closed again. It would appear that « machine like this must have been very easy to “beat” by putting in other things than money: but it ix to be presumed that the ancient Egyptian small boy bad no use for boly water, and pious persons would bardly be likely to cheat the tus. cs "From the time of this ancient slot mechine up to comparatively recent times history makes no record of any contrivance of the sort. About seventy years ago a philanthropist in England bad constructed on his premises @ device with acrank attachment anda hole at the top big enough to drop ® copper penny fan. Wiener beggar came along and asked for something to eat the good man put © penny into the affair, upon which, if the tram turned the crank for twenty minutes, a loaf bread was thrust out. This was an ingenious scheme for making the applicant for alms work for his dinner, but probably it was no more popuiar with mendicante then than it would be today. About weap Ege @ ago the first mod- kno ern slot machines their appearance in Germany, where they are very wilely used at present, the French next them up, and since thea they have spread ail over the wor! ——— FELL AMONG MIND READERS. A Young Bridegroom'’s Embarrassing perience at the Board of Trade. ‘From the Chicago Tribune. A day or two ago, afew minutes before the a ieeit i