The evening world. Newspaper, August 12, 1922, Page 16

| { LEFT—EMBROI- DERED SLEEVES ARE THE ONLY DECORATION OF AN OTHERWISE QUITE SIMPLE FROCK IN BLACK AND WHITE. CENTRE—AN IN- S STANCE WHERE ” THE SLEEVES ARE THE MAK- ‘ ING OF A GOWN. RIGHT — FLOW. ING SLEEVES HELP RETAIN’ THE GRACE OF A FIGURE THAT IS A TRIFLE FULL. for fall. By Janet Winslow 0 be sure we have had no cessa- tion of the wearing of felt hats through the summer, but that leaves us all the more in the mood for more felt hats for the fall, And then there is another very great advan- tage about this mixing of the seasons’ headgear—you can have your hat lead over Into another season without that sharp and sometimes annoying change fram summer to winter and vice versa. The idea of draping has come into the realm of the hat to stay and, even when the material is a rather thick piece of felt, the lines are gathered together and folded around Decorative, Flowing, Graceful, Lengthen- ing the Figure Lines, New Sleeves Will Be the Feature of the Fall Costume last season or so. But that is made By Margery Wells present time but it leads as a pattern of soft, black woolly material becom- OOK at the plainness of the gowns {or many fall gowns. It has that ingly clinging to the lines of the fig- L. shown on this page. They are Utter simplicity for which the smart Ure. simple to the last degree. They own of the present day simply must ‘Then the sleeves are made of some have not a thing but line and cut to be noted and at the same time it 1s very handsome piece of black and make them notable. eluborate enough looking to be quite white embroidery, the large, white fig- Except the sleeves. Ah! There is in the running with the newer and ures appearing on a background of one's héad so that they form a frame the ameliorating feature. Sleeves con- Prohably more formal styles, dull black so that they shall show for your face after its own particular stitute the decorative note of the sea~ The frock itself is of apple green most effectively. There are narrow demands. And there is often no trim- see, Sleeves are the things that make Woolen material, and where it bindings of white and there is a white ming at all, the draping being con- the gown, Sleeves have leaped into opened at the front an underlying crystal chain of beads as well as a sidered an ample sufficieucy for this prominence in the most extraordinary area of soft silk crepe makes itself White satin draped turban to carry out sort of turban. : fashion. visible, Then there ure slecves of the established scheme of the contrast There is everything in the way one’ of white against black. of these hats is placed upon the head. You must attend to that yourself and with all of the thought and care th: you can manage to put into the per- But if you have sleeves which are feautiful and bizarre and harmonious white chiffon, to be just as soft and transparent as It is possible to make You can't possibly choose anything and decorative, then beware of the them, and they are edged with grad- more effective than this If you are design of the gown! ‘That must be uated bands of the fabric that makes looking for a combination that will kept neutral—in the background as it the main portion of the gown be picturesque and distinctive as well were. A wide black velvet ribbon tied most a9 becoming. A one-piece dress can still be a one- interestingly under the chin und Long, Draped Sleeves Good piece dress. It can be simple and hanging in long, loose ends is a proper for Full Fi straight and classic in line, but it must accent and finish for the smartness of or igures. have for an appendage something | the frock already Anything that lengthens the line of a sleeve to make it. notable. For established. 'T) a figure that is overly full—that ts a quite permanently eves, YOU Se are ‘gowns these days are more elaborate the feature extraordinary. They are Popular something in these days, For affairs than they have been for some the making of the gown which, while how many figures are full? Oh, many time past, and, though you realize that it is exccllent us a supplement, might of them, goodness knows! you must be « trifle more decorative not be very notable all by itself Well, there ts the dress of dark yours:If than you have been, you do , blue br de in the illustration, It hot always know that if you concen- Embroidered Sleeves a has long, draped sieves and it is trate the trimming in the vicinity of G A posed ona figure that is over normal the sleeves you will have the smart. reat Asset. size Just to show how excellently that est effect that it is possible to attain. Black and white~and then em- sort of shape carries off the longer You can use embroidery, or you can broidery! ‘There can be no more ef- and more formal lit use ribbon, or you can use bands of fective combination than this. And‘ Indeed, you can rejoice If you are @, or you can press into service then when the embroidery is contined one of those whose figure is trifle wide strips of silk braid, or you can to the radius of the siceves, as is the over normal at the flowing sleeve gee that organdy and © are used popular fancy of the moment, you and the way that they are sct into for a finish. In any event you will have something which has everything the popular style of gown, They, with have added to the sleeves and to no to make it notable even th hitap- their drooping and flowing line other portion of your frock that touch pear among a throng of « ntly were made for you. Really they were of trimming that marks the leading gowned ey add grace tot Sue Ficoneegh garment of the present day There is nothing to tl elf body as Yau wove uboul Gieon co ee ee Look at the picture of the one-piece save that 1 i aioe thn Meet Ald’ thaw dean ca ust Au New this is not only an extremely wiore thay one dress succes coficeal the overabundance of line BOW. t 4 tHE EVENING WORLD, SATURDAY, AUGUST 12, 1922, he illustrations on this page give important sugges- tions on the trend of styles for autumn. though the long flowing sleeve and the tight-fitting small hat are to be important high spots in the fashions formance, for the very absence of trim ming and the suitability of the lines demand that you shall attend to the fixing with all of your artistic instincts rallied to the task. Therefore, when you step into a shop to purchase one of the new hats please try, zently but firmly, to do your own “trying on.” You know more by feel than a lady would ever know by “look,” and if you yourself cannot make the hat look charming then you cannot hope to imitate the setting that any sales person sugges*s. It has to be more or less a matter of instinct if you are going to look your best every day and on all occasions, bright ones as well as those that hold some of the forlorn hope. A hat will do everything for your psychology—even an inconspicuous lit- tle draped felt hat that at first sight might appear to be only a bit of knockabout. Allow it to look that way on tho surface {f you have a mind to, but never, never deny {t that tender care and foresight which is going to make {t an addition to your face instead of any sort of a dr back. Then, when you are at the task of hat trying-on, don't forget to take a long, exhaustive look at the the sides. So many girls t) les- w= back and that 7 "THD ERWOSS AND UNOERWOON A HAT OF DRAPED ROUNDING THE SHAPE OF THE FACE. DER TRIMMED AND ORCHID FLOWERS. @©vxpeawocoe UM DE RWoOe It looks as MUSHROOM TYPE OF LAVEN ~ TheNew Gowns . Show Bizarre Sleeves § Beginning the Fall With Felt Hats ~ If the tips of their noses and the plac- ing of their two eyes look fascinating under a hat, all is well, but only too often this view is a delusion and & snare. You want the back of your head and thf tilt of the side of you neck to be just charming unde the hat as is any front view, and in order to gain this effect, wnich is to last through the life of the hat, you must consider the headpiece through all available mirrors and at every pos sible side angle. Stand up straight when you are buying a new hat. Don't think that when you are slumped in a chair you can find out whether it is be- coming or not. Not at all! You need a view of the tout ensemble before you can know whether you have the east right in the world to own that at, And {f {t is in good proportion with your whole figure, then you can know that it is in some manner suit- able to your own particular style of beauty, Hayen't you often seen a girl who. most evidently, had sat hunched up in a small chair before a small mi: ror when she made the purchase of her season's hat? ‘The proportion is ill out of Kilter. Well, it is because she has missed the fine points of pro. portion, and that she would never WITH PURPLE have done if sh fore a long mirror and cons view instead of a stricted one, All three cramped are examples of the new fall suited to th rage girl, And three of them are susceptible change in harmony with th the simple trick of pulling the drapery into a mor personal way ITS CURVES ad stood erect be- Jered the hat from a broad and large point of and of the hats un this page face by and push and suitable angle. They of the hats that will be od general examples to fol making your choice FELT, TO done in Glimpses Into New York ‘Shop By Emilie Hoffman. and it &t “yettas Bie attention shoppers at the present time e wise woman who ections now while there und complete und they se the va- range rments te choose from till unha 1, Becs cation has depleted the purse need be no drawback. Merchants are making <reat inducements to fur shoppers. They request only a slight payment 5 #& guarantee that the balance will be forthcoming by the time the gar e delivered in November and to store the furs until then Whether you desire a black, brown or gray fur garment, you will find them all well represented, as all three are fashionable colors Sin great being laid upon brown in general for the coming ason, mink marmot and other brown furs a prominent in the displays. In long fur garments Fashion has set her seal upon black caracul, brown caracul and in the grays the choice lies be tween mole and squirrel. In the Snappy short coats, which are mostly belted, Persian lamb is modish, as is also mole and broadtail The white rabbit coat is very smart for sports wear and there a hie little jackets in coney and ermine, the kind they li p been wearing with the all-white sports costume all summer over in France. ments they offe’ stress The cantons seem to be the fabric for afternoon favorite both in the satin faced and plain canton, The soft crepe de Chines, however, have hecome so tirmly established by their beauty and wearing qualities, as well 18 graceful possibilities, especially in the new draperies, that women will not readily assent to their withdrawal rom fashionable materials, so we still find them among the newer cantons in present displa In colors. the Various shades of brown and the navy share favor with black, whieh, by the way, is still very modish and this by popular favor rather than Fash- jon's decree,