The evening world. Newspaper, March 11, 1922, Page 20

By Mildred Lodewick Copyright, 1022 N York Wvening World) by tne Prees Publishing Co. PRING, that season of happy, moods and gay caprices is yet a serious one. It is the season above all others that new apparel is considered an absolute necessity. And for the woman who is fastidi- ous in her dressing it is a trying time, for she knows that a smart out- fit is not achieved in a day. To ex- hibit good taste in every detail, which is necessary to a smart ensemble, re- quires thought and time. The hat is usually the first indul- gence of the springtime, and frequent- ly the costume is built around it. But the usual procedure in planning a toilette is to begin with the suit or. frock. The first spring hat one buys is in winter, and before spring weather arrives has seen enough wear to be cast’ aside as second-best. Every week brings new interpreta- tions of the mode, and an individual inspiration is offered here. It is a @raped toque of soft silk with a twist- ed roll of the same silk passing over it from eur to ear and extending a bit below its edge. Twisted in with the silk is a strand of contrasting col- @red beads, either sparkling, like jet, or dull-painted. Matching the beads in color are two long silken tassels that finish the ends of the roll and drop ever each shoulder. Bright blue beads and tassels would be pretty on black, as this color com- bination is quite smart at present. Also brick red trimmings would go well on blue, brown, or tan. Of course a one-color scheme for the entire hat could be exploited if de- sired and then the model would be quite appropriate for the woman of middie age. A fan hat or one of brown, however, could be enlivened with jet beads entwined with the fabric for the roll. Have you seen the interesting way that figured foulard has been intro- duced in millinery? Crowns of it are Naf uncommon, but really unique are the draped toques of it when a bold pattern is chosen. It suggests to mind its adaptability for this model, which would be chic in a blue and white pattern, the white predomin- ating, while the blue could be empha- sized by the beads and tassels. Gayly expressive of spring is the new footwear, which evinces a strong penchant for color. Bright red, blue and green trimmings in the form of bindings, inserts and straps on dark kid and patent leather are very ef- fective. And, contrary to our principles of good taste and refined conservatism, we will wear these decorative shoes, They will not offend because they are introduced at a time when simplicity in the realm of dress is at its acme, and therefore the fancy shoes add an appreciable quality of elaboration, Needless to caution that the color introduced on the shoe should har- monize with that which trims the frock, if it is trimmed. But trimming is something one doesn't think much about these days —the main thing is good lines, and then a pleasing combination of colors and fabrics. With the modish cape costumes the popular sort of frock is one that allies a dark fabric for the lower portion and a lighter one for Helps “Dear Miss Lodewick: “Il know you can suggest some- thing to remedy the effect of a black serge dress | \have, which | makes me appear shorter than | | am, and with its elongated waist- | line presents an ill-proportioned ' effect. The skirt is trimmed in deep band effect around lower ! part, with overlapping rows of cire braid, the same used also around wide sleeves. Am forty- five years of age, weigh 150 pounds, 5 feet 2 inches tall. “MRS. W. C.” Panels of black satin dropped from each side of the girdle, extending a couple of inches below skirt edge would lend a lengthening effect. You could harmonize waist with a chemi- sette of satin, “Dear Miss Lodewick: “What would you advise for trimming on a_ periwinkle blue crepe de Chine evening gown? It tequires a banding or some sort of finishing around neck, arm- holes and side panels of skirt. “BE, M. C.” Pear] or opalescent bead banding would contrast pleasingly. “Dear Miss Lodewick: | “Will you advise me what con- 4 THE EVENING WORLD'S FASHION Ribbon Coquets With This Parasol ' the upper, which color is matched up for the lining of the cape. By the way, I saw a smart summer costume, with a cape, that was made REVIEW SECTION. with a black satin, a soft quality, satin Francais, for a foundation frock, onto which was buttoned a white kasha cloth skirt, slightly circular, which opened up the left side-front DESIGNS BY MILDRED LODEWICK. ® ‘ ; oN H IN THE EVENING WORLD THREE DAYS EACH WEEK. trasting material would be pretty with inclosed sample of figured georgette (Paisley pattern). |! have 1 1-4 yards of same. E. H.” Black satin would be effective em- ployed as skirt and bands on wide sleeves, Bright blue georgette binding an neck of Paisley bodice. “Dear Miss Lodewick: “What sort of evening slippers would be appropriate with a tan- gerine chiffon frock? It has no trimming but a cluster of flowers at side of girdle.” If you are a blonde, cloth of gold would harmonize but silver also can be worn with orange, as well as orange satin. There are firms that dye slippers reasonably, “Dear Miss Lodewick: “Are white gloves a necessary part of one’s attire at a formal afternoon tea? Also, will you kindly advise me what sort of hat to wear with a light tan duvetyn dress which Is trimmed with black caracul? Black is not becoming to me. | am dark, sallow-com- plexioned, with brown eyes. “MRS. D. W. 8.” White gloves are usually worn Le- FASHION DESIGNS BY MILDRED LODEWICK APPEAR ® cause they are dressy and complete agreeably any color frock. But very light tan or pale yellow suede or kid gloves may be worn if they form a better complement to the frock A black hat faced with a becoming shade of blue could complete your tan frock. Dear Miss Lodewick: | have a dark-brown Georgette dress beaded in steel and tur- quoise. It has rather’ short sleeves that are getting quite shabby. Would it be advisable to put in new sleeves of a different colored Georgette, and if so, what color? Am twenty-three years old, .medium brown hair, blue eyes and fair skin, heavy build. S. J. M. It is a splendid idea to supplement new sleeves. Would suggest trying to match your brown Georgette. for them, making them wide and deep, arm-holes nearly to the waistline. If ethe color did not exactly match, it would not be plainly visible. “Dear Miss Lodewick: “Will you advise me as to what color skirt will look right with a taupe color suit coat? It has slash pockets, convertible collar and a very narrow belt. The ma- terial is tricotine. The skirt which bp i's - to reveal the foundation. A cape of the white kasha cloth was faced with @ three-inch band of the black and a broad-brimmed white straw hat faced with red taffeta and bound with black ‘was worn with this costume at a re- cent fashion opening. Ribbon bows are a gracious sort of trimming on broad-brimmed hats, and require considerable art in tying and arranging. But surely nothing can surpass the refined elegance of its grace and luscious quality, whether It is of soft satin in rich gros grain For trailing sashes from brims of sport hats, or for limpid sash ends on soft frocks, there is a new ribbon of Canton crape enlivened with em- broidered stripes or figures, done all in one color. The dull surface of the background lends this ribbon a prac- tical ‘air unlike anything I have seen before, As you will note in my sketch, the summer parasol will be as effective a complement of simple frocks as will the slippers. The two long stream- ers, flower-tipped, that drop from the handle, sway picturesquely against the frock, while around the edge of the parasol many loops of rainbow ribbon form a flattering shade for the face. Tiny flowers of the ribbon mark the starting points of the loops. The wegman who is planning her summer wardrobe can decorate by hand a parasol like this which will be an. appreciated addition to her simple frocks. Glaced Foliage for Hat Trimming EAVES they are Lut not green L leaves! No, they sre some fu- turist sort of colored leaves that make the new spring hats. They are colored, they are lacquered, and thea they are placed upon the hat in pre- cise rows so that they catch the ligat and reflect it in a succession of sparkles. The hat with a bi:m that turns backward is the one best adapted to this leafy construction, for the tips of the leaves us they spread across « brim of this character seem to taka on their best shape and standing. One was made of bright henna tinted leaves and avother wos made all of violet leaves and stul another was made of shades of yell’ w and brown ieaves. Nothing coul:! be further :e- moved from any intitution of nature and nothing could bo more success- ful than these hats cre There {s something about the irregularity of the surface they achieve which makes them particularly becoming to most faces, and one sees every reason why customers in a millinery shop rave on about the beauties of the leafy creations. Then for other hats leaves are used alone for the trimmaig. They are formed into round rovettes or into motifs that take on different and stiff shapes to blend themselves with the general contour of the hat. But always they are flattered out and kept in place by many stitches so that their expression shall be one of a set purpose rather than eny irregularity of scheme. The one branch of eti- quette seems to te to combine flowers with these tarified leaves. They are best when they are left to shine alone and are not confused with any other trimming to act as an in- terruption to their beuuty. Some of the broad irimmed hats of taffeta or crepe or satin or lace or tulle. have wreaths of these carefully placed leaves to fora a trimming ‘round the crown, ani some of them are trimmed with silver and gold foliage glittering aguinst black. for the Home Dressmaker goes with it is shabby and I thought a tan box plaited sport skirt would look well. Do you think a patent leather belt and white collar would brighten it up a bit? Also what sort of hat? Am twenty years old, brunette, blue eyes, heavy features, weigh 120 pounds. MRS. C. A. C.” Your own suggestion is very good, but I would suggest one of the modish silk or woollen scarfs in some gay, color around the neck instead of the white collar. In fact, a plain sport skirt of tan and blue, or tan and henna would be pretty, with the color iepeated in the scarf, and either a patent leather belt or one of the trico- tine. A blue or henna felt sport hat bound with black would be smart. “Dear Miss Lodewick: “1 am to address a gathering of women some time in March and would like to know if a dress of tricotine having wide satin sleeves and satin side sections to skirt would be appropriate? Am forty- one years of age. MRS.G. T.” Your garb should depend upon tie character of the meeting and the time of day. Such a frock would be @- propriate in the morning and als@ *¥ an informal afternoon guthering. 4 § ”