The evening world. Newspaper, January 8, 1921, Page 15

SATURDAY, JANUARY 8, 1921 Good Also Make for went Several Agree With Thompson-Seton That Clothes | , Short Skirts and Low Necks ; Moral Influence mire Better Health Are Not the Life-Preservers of Morality— Women’s Costumes To-Day the Sanest in History of Race. Marguerite Mooers Marshall, nmi Row’ teat aang Wont LOTHES are not ‘the life-pre- servers of morality, after all. A woman may wear a short skirt without being short on goodness, A low dress is not neweswarily the outward investiture of e low mind. | ‘The human body shoukd not bead the Hist of bidden crtmos, Ané4 this new philosophy of clothes —new ‘only because it is so old—has found @ modern prophet, an American Sartor Resartus, in our great ecien- dist and naturalist, Dr. Ernest Thompson-Seton. Like @ dlear, clean breath of the west wind, clearing away the fog of pseudo-morality and prurient, priggish denunciation which has bung about the modern woman's dress, comes Dr. Thompson-Seton’s recent defense of its abhreviations and eHminations, of ‘its morality, health and comfort. “The costumes of the women of to-day,” he says, “are the most sane in the history of the race aince the dawn of so-called civilization, and moving in the right direction, The vhorter the dress of the female and the lower the neck of her bodice, the greater her moral influence and the greater ber tendency to health. “Sex morality has no relation to clothing, as is proved by the naked tribes of Bast Africa, who are the most mor&l people in the world in thetr natural state, but who always take a downward step morally when compelled by missionaries to wear clothing.” Many of the naturally naked na- tives of the South Sea Islands might have been mentioned by Dr. Thomp- son-Seton to prove his point, Thera are plenty of exploters and writers who maintain that these peoples were both healthier and freer from vice before the white man’s civiNmtion \ compelled them to don pants and petticoats. “In Turkey,” continued the natural. at, “where more clothing ts worn by the women than in any other coun- try on the globe, the morality of the peopie is the lowest. This was true of France when the women swathed themselves in heavy robes of silks and satins and covered their faces with powder and patches. No, covering the body with clotties tempts rather [hag prevents a tendency to immorality.” ‘Or, a8 a Broadway philosopher once put it to me, “*A little show girl in a tight-fitting ack sUk stocking is worth all the bare-legged beauties that ever pranced." ‘And, defending the low-cut blouses and evening gowns of the ‘modern woman, Dr. Thompson-Seton draws this interesting military comparison: “The soldiers of the United States Army, compelled to wear high collars and tight-about-the-neck clovhing,+ show an average of diseases of the throat of 43 per 1.000, while the sail- ors of the United States, with more exposed life and collars wide open and low, show but 21 to 1,000 with throat troubles. “Why wear clothes?” he challenges. “Personally, I have always been in rdbailion against having my body bothered and hindered by clothing.” And how many of us tn our secret hearts agree with him? In this cli- mate, of course, a certain amount of clothing is necessary; even the native Americans had thelr skins and blan- kets. As a consistent naturalist, Dr. ‘Thompson-Seton probably would ad- mit that the human animal needs some protéction to take the place of the hairy or feathery covering with which other warm-blooded animals are sup- plied. A few clothes we need—-but we have worn 60 much too much! Phy- siclans for decades have been urging the sartorial ideals now realized in the costume of the modern woman. “No jong skirts,” said the doctors. “They are germ collectors, and they mean damp ankles for much of the time. No corsefs. They. constrict the most vital organs of the body. No high, tight collars. They interfere with somo of the most important glands.” Now women are wearing short skirts, are taking off their corsets, are donning skirts that stop just below the knea, And how the Puritans howl! One British medical writer, how- ever, recently evinced strong satis- faction over the low-backed evening Far from causing the decollete dress of to-day, lds ,or pneumonia, tress Improves the circulation of the hlood, gneourages women to develop their armm and shoulders and gives them more grace and dignity, says this physician. He continues: “But one of the most gratifying re- vults will be the effect on the face There is no doubt whatever that many Of the skin troubles endured by women have been caured by tight and warm clothing around the neck When the blood ts permitted to cir- late freely the complexion will im ove, wrink) id pimples will dis appear, and. other conditions being favorable, the face will become plumper, elcarer and of fetter color. “The looseness a@ibout the neck should also have a beneficial influ- ence on the hair, Lrobably much of the bakiness of at least the earlier Years of middle age is due to want of a mafficient supply of blood to the ‘p. With the coming of the low- necked dress there is ground for hope that’ women will be much less troubled with falling or graying hair “Obviously, the unpleasant effecis of heat will be reduced, for the coviness of the bare upper part will cool the whole -blood-etream and body. The ood | om the nervous system is perhaps the most Important factor. ‘The coolness and ease and the free of pure blood to the brain Dumber and we BOE severity of headaches, prevent Irri- tability, and make a woman in every way more cheerful and better- tempered.” That woman's dress to-day is more healthy than for centuries seems a truth beyond argument. As to the morality of this dress! that, to a clean- minded man or woman, is not to be questioned either. For morality, like beauty, lies in tho eye of the beholder, ‘The true angwer, the true explana- tion of the psychology of those critios of women’s dress whom I have named the Vigilantes of ‘Vice, 1s in a paragraph from fie! of Andre Tridon, the authority on psycho-analysis. “A subject sexually hypersensitive,” says Mr. Tridon, “discovers a sexual stimulus in an object which in @ nor- m7! subject would not produce any stinvulation of a sexual type. The sub- ject rewents the disturbance thus pro- duced in his sexual life, and, unable to resist the attraction of the stimu- lus, demands that the stimulus be re- moved by legal intervention.” In other words, the persons who want to “reform” dress had better re- form thelr own minds! ith Bool « OUR REPUBLIC = ONGRESS is getting ready, to C send seuds*to the people. But the people don't want seeds— they want raisins, Jf the Con- gressers love the electorate Itke they say they do, there's only one proof they've got to give ‘em. That's 190 proof. Licker is getting scarcer every hour. ‘The dootleggers are on their last legs. The Keeley Cure is now the rich man’s college. There will soon be nothing to gulp but wood alcohol, and the trouble with wood alcohol is that it has a wooden chaser--with silver handles. ‘The Nation js in a tough plight. All classes of workers are loafing except the yeggmen. Wages are dropping like British heavweights. . The wages of sin are the only ones GLIMPSES INTO * NEW YORK SHOPS a French idea, but It I seems to be meeting with favor héhe, This is produced by the sash or girdle and is seen on many of the tew gowns, Sometimes the bigh effect is at the right side and the low at the left and vice versa, Invariably the sash ends fall at the left side. EH diagonal waistline is A specialty shop on Fifth Avenue is showing an exten- sive line of negligees, There are flowing robes in exquisite colorings and design and there is a large and varied ossort- ment of the chic pajama cos- tumes in velvet and silk. ‘The proprietress of this shop caters to personality, which, she says, the lounging robe expresses and her array indicates that individuality can have full sway when it comes to select- ig a robe for the boudoir, that haven't been reduced. You can't reduce the wages of sin unless you abolish capital punishment. Some of our richest movie actors can't afford a divorce this year The two-part bathing beauty films have been reduced to one-piece suits, The price of eggs is so dizzy, Charley Chaplin basn’t thrown a custard pte in his last three feature films. Everything in Los Angeles bas slumped except the climate. In Portland, Me., right now, 10,000 tulip pickers are starving from lack of work. In Yellowstone Park, 600 guides ate thrown out of work by the non-arrival of raw material on the tourist trains. Snow shovellers are on strike in North Dakota, But are upable to walk out on account of the snow. In the whole country there is only one factory that's working full time and they're mak- ing burglar alarms. Statistios show that 5,000,000 pro- gramme solicitors have heen tossed out of work by the paper shortage. Paper is so searce they no longer wrap flivvers up in bundles and transfers are two cents apiece. Misery has a clutch on the land like earlaps on a milkman’ Some families are down to their last thousand phonograph needles. Brave men are going without their licker to put aleoho!l in their radiators. Want and distress cover the Nation Uke a Chatauqua circuit. The only guys that have as much work as ever are the boys that are repairing flivvers, Meanwhile, what is Congress do- ing? It is doing much—aye, twice as much! ‘To relleye the privations of citizens, Congress will take im- mediate steps to stretch its member- ehip to fifty more! Passing on to the next problem of national de- preasion, Congress stands ready to reduce railroad fares so long as the Congressers collect twenty cents @ mile, Yes, Congress will eolvé the Beat It! WITH Ex, SHE IS PERFECTLY SATISFIED TO STAY THAT.S NY COOK. POOR Sout | SHE HAS BEEN BED-RIDDEN FOR TWENTY YEARS NE Effective While some of us wil! continue to enjoy tho opalescent twilight that fMokers with the lighte of our busy Broadway and Fifth Avenue, others of us will be at 5 o'clook in the after- noon gathering around tea tables shexied ‘neath the glorious sunlit branches of tropical palm treoa. Southland fashions are alwaye in- teresting beowuse they appear at a thme when winter etyles have be: come just that well acquainted with us that we welcome a diversion. Among the new enchantments that Will no doubt become popular for summer wear |s the straw hat woven with a road lacey brim, which is threaded with narrow double-faced satin ribbon. On the rigtt side near |} the edge of the brim many long loops and ends drop over one's shoulder gracefully, Two colors in- troduced in the rifvbon, such af maize on one side and pale blue oh the other, would achieve a pretty effect. Another hat of the lace brimmed type, which suggested more dignity, was faced with several layers of pale blue tulle, which extended beyond the édge, while the crown and nart of WHERE DID YOU GET THAT HAT? « of the Lord High Adniiral of the Swiss Navy. The gentle- man {s head janitor of the City Hall in Rome, Italy, Carries you bugk to the old song, “Where did you get that hat?"’—Ph, what? N°. the above ts not a photograph 1p O'RARA problems of the Republic if t takes a minority report to do it. When @ crisis clogs the horizon you can de- pend on all the Congressers to got together and line up for the same abject—espectally on pay day. Congressmen are different from other people. That's why they're Congressmen. If Caruso sprains his larynx it costs Caruso $1,000 @ day. But if a Congreseer pulls a tendon in his oratory sector it saves the Nation $1,000 a day at the Govern- mént printing office. And that's the trouble with the Guvmint to-day. In the old days it was @ man’s ambition to sit in Congress. Now it's his am- bition to stand up and talk, TAR, JARR FAMILY it, 1981, ter the Frene (Th New York Jreaing Wort.) TALK of shopping!" remarked 6e Mrs. “LT am eure I dread it, it tires me all out,” Mrs. Rangle, whom she was speaking, shook her head and replied that she felt the same way about it. “And yet,” added Mrs. Rangle, “to bear the men Lilk you'd believe shopping was the sole delight of women, or their chiefest.” The two ladies were in a street car bound downtown for the stores. “Mrs. Kittingly haa a taxicab call for her when she go@ shopping, and it walts for her while she is in the stores, and then ‘she comes home in it, and yet she complains of hart times and that her alimony tan’t suf- Jarr, to “King of Cats” Here’s the King of Cats, Cranereuch Il., Great Grandson of Winter, Once Most * Famous America at Waldorf Show His JOYS AND sORROWS. (¥rom tie Philedaiphis Beoord.) Mugeine—Wigwag in certainly a most appreciative fellow.” Buggine—That's right. He divides laughing at the Dis thine becwesn his friend: id the miseries of ‘the ficient for her needs,” remarked Mrs, Jerr, “Oh, that woman!” said Mrs. Ran- gle with a sneer, “She should be the last to talk!” But why, Mra, Rangle didn't explain. “To my mind the street cars are just as convenient and much more safe than taxicabs. the expense of taxta, Jarr. “And the streets dre #o con- gested with traffic that I wouldn't have a town oar like Clara Mudridge- Smith has, if it were given me.” YNeither would 1,” Mrs. Rangie re pied virtuously. “But eome people like to put on aire and show off~ and as I said, that divorced woman, Mrs, Kittingly, should be the last pereon to say a word.” “She spends hér time of the go, Tl may that,’ replied Mrs, Jarr, “Of courst, she Is on her good behavior whén I see her, and I think ft best to take people as T find them.” “At the same Ume ghe ts not a person I would care to be seen with,” said MresRangle, “She may be more sinned against than sinning, but | prefer the old-faghioned ort of woman.” “So do |," said Mra, Jarr, “But Mrs. Kittingly does try so hard to bo friends and makes such a fuss over the children, She gave a doll to your little girl and roller skates to your Juhnny Obrigtinas,' didn't sher" “Yes, but while I didn’t thank her, and while one can't exactly out her, still I don't go out of my way for her,” replied Mrs, Rangle, At this the car stopped in the busi- ness district and both ladies got out, to run right into Mra, Kittingty; the little grass widow they had just been discunsing. “Why, how nice to meet you two!” cried the divorcee, “I have to go to the hair dreeser’s and I'll be there bout an hour, Will you two meet me at tho St, Vitus Hotel and have luncheon with me?’ “I have eo many things to do, real- ly.” faltered Mrs. Jarr, giving « eoarching side glance at Mrs, Rangie. “Ob, don't any vou won't. What do "PSE CaRDELL say, Mrs. Rangio?” asked the Vivacious Mra. Kittingly. “Ll want to treat you both to a nice tuncheon and take you to a matinee!” “Why, It's réal sweet of you, and Mra, Jarr was just telling me she hated to shop. So do I, and we will hurry through and meet you.” So it was agreed and Mrs, Kittingly stepped into her taxi and way whirled away, “She may be talked about, but she has a good heart and I believe she is a good woman!” said Mrs. Rangle gushingly. . Vasn't that just what I was say- ing, and I am glad you are like mo and try to think the best of every- body!” remarked Mrs. Jarr, =e ‘ APPLAUSE. (Prem the Washington Has.) “You don't attach much importance to applause on orator receives. ‘Not mudh," admitted Senator’ Sor- ghum, ‘There ls tound to be applause You can't expect an audience to sit still all evening and do abeolutety nothing.” No Aerial Mail for Chinese. HILE Chang Tso Lin, who to-day dominates the forth of China, was won. dering just what he would do with #ix airplanes which he had ordered from England the question of the disposal of three of them was set (led for him. He was undecided whether to use them for military purposes or for the establishment of @ mail service, in accordance with the terms of the contract. While debating the question he ordered three to be sent to Muk- den, for possible postal use, and the remainder, to Paotingfu for military purpor Those shipped to Mukden were loaded on flat- cars and started on ‘their way Some distance from Tentain they bumped a railroad bridge and were not only smashed but also put the bridge out of commission. So it looks as though those who had ex- pected to get their mail via the air route are doomed to disappoint- mont. orcad Bit Obtrusive but None the Less “uved the other day as trimming of & SATURDAY, JANUARY 8, 1921 MY DEAR: Black Is Becoming @ cabot wt wo’ What Color Tie Strings, |. Will You Wear in Your 2 White Buckskin Oxfords? a the brim were draped with ‘tack «fl * lace. Black finds its way quite obtrusively.; in some of the new fashions. It te not... always pleasing, but at feast striking, ” as I belleve you will agree when T tet’ you of a creation J saw the other day, It was Intended for Southern wear ends: was a black crepe de chine bodige, | completed by an orchid organdy skirt and an orchid organdy collar. Letus, hope that such styles will not live to7 spoll our summer. The tendency. how- e of employing contrasting fabrics for the bodice and skirt of one~picee'?? frocks is becoming alarming, You seme. bodices of green chifton velvet topping, black satin skirts, bodices of white satin, red bead embrokdered, to} be Winck velvet skirts, &c, But there nothing of dignity pbout such a type f frock nor anything else much more + than novelty or variation, and few women can stand being out at the’ waistline so pronouncedly, f The other afternoon in one of the hotel tea rooms where Sapcitie Anes pastime I noted a black satin frock @f very simple lines, bloused softly at the hem, which was given a quaintly delicate touch by a band of black silk Jace that dropped ap inch or so below the skirt edge, {t fell 80 softly I knew Mt must have been attached a way up, making the width of Jace at least four inches, Not to be passed by with @ casual glance was the scarf set a young matron was wearing on her brisk walk down the avenue. > It’ wy Mw? ‘black duvetyn lined with Mure hae am}, that imitation fur whieh te ‘ effective and flattering to the wi ta Tho white was rolled back: to : next the nec! aaa Have any of you seen the latest)? | caprice of straw braid? T eaw! Hy, Goorgette frock, The .«traw was Disque color and the frock dark ob the tunle being envireted four ti with the inch-wide Drakd. It was Of , that soft, pMable sort whien did not make the tunic stand out too um, graciously : T am sure those of you who are going South will like to hear the dat whisper of Dame Fashion, that ool-, ored tie strings will be worn in thell! fashionable white buckskin oxfc -da, The tle strings no doubt will match the color of one's sport hatior + sweater, or skirt, and sounds like an entrancing Innovation, MILDRED LODEWIOK Reitman he iar, BEAUTY HEALTH BY DR CHARLOTTE C.WESsT 0 Li Dorma” 1991. eae Fra tang OR, The Disiguring Effects of Colds 10 mention the beauty-destroying effect of a suvere cold in the » head or? catarrhal conditions of the nose and throat seems puefile ” compared with their sinister influence upon one’s health. Yet a vast mut- bc ber of people, women especially, are more concerned about thetr looks than about their freedom from dis- eased conditions, 4 Happily the disfiguring elements in an acute coll are merely transient!» but it leaves its impress upon the mucous membranes of the parts af- fected, and as the mucous meno! constitute one of the moat deli . fabrics woven by nature, it can read. | ily be seen that even the, slightest */ susceptibility to repeated ids is & ’ matter for scrious conside: ‘Thousands experience a cold every change in the season; others with every change in the weather. Such susceptibility is constitutionat’’'* and should be combated with ropte, peal ment directed to toning up the tem generally. Women are more ‘lable te acute colds than men, and have doubtless observed many times that it is cawter to “chtch a cold” than to cure’ ® one, for once eetablished it runs tte, , se. Sometimes ft does more—tt = the foundation for serious « la trouble 4 the robust an soute’ co! having been allowed to prthoay§ Seats hold, abides its disngreeable stay and leaves one none the worse if. precaue+s fons are taken against future at- tacks. But when the, resisting power”! is low an endless chain of colds te. apt Lo follow the initial attack, which » Breatly reduces the vitality and-mows © sels the keystone, us ff were, for an ‘neradicable malady. veoause that! condition which we habitually call a common cold” is usually the founda.) tion of every chronic iliness, notably rheumatism and tuberculosis. a I has been said that we arele Nation of chronic “ailers,” Our varia, ble climate has a gpod deal to do with’ © that, the sudden rises and falls in the. ~ temperature making it imperative to guard the body in some way or an- \ other from these atmespherio changes. + he air at all times |s filled wtth © or less molature, but the humart system has comparatively littl power to resist the combined tnfluonces of moisture and cold, with constant ele sending a great influx of blood to the. internal organs, causing .co: 0} or heating it t st, peripheral ves to dilate, bringing, the blood with a rush to the and so wasting @ vast veya of us ¢ heat (which is and ing tho "reat vital Gen