The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, February 18, 1906, Page 13

THE_ NCISCO SUNDAY SAN FRA Lotions and Ther Use in the Making of di s. Here e eyebrows with &t Apply toothbrus! the s s suficlent Then ess The used for e s als t should e very carefully applle e eyes, as any ofl will, if eyebrows &ho carefully e 2 gracefu This ed by br night and the right direct trregular, they straggling nd if they very sometimes appear sbove the the nose should be removed wit ers. Never allow sny one to to @rop belladonns into the eyes to = them brilliant. It is @angerous t sight. If the eyes are red or look swc len oy this simple lotion to reduce nflammation Distilled witch hasel, 1 ounce; pure water, 1 ounce. To be used especlally for . teted by cold. Bathe the eves the wash drug lotion, fit the cup firml and tiit back the head and lashes are colorless ing stain, which is entirely Gum arabic, 1 dram rose water, 4 ounces and gum and triturate small quantities of the powder with the rose water until you get a uniform black liquid in a pow- der, and add the remainder of the rose water to it. It should be applied with a very tiny camel’s hair brush. When you have treated your eyes in this simple but effective fashion and dressed your hair properly, vou will be surprised to find how little those promi- nent cheekbones obtrude on your im- proved ensemble. The woman with what is known as the sagging face can Te- lieve her haggard and old appearance by persistent treatment befors her own mirror. This can be done either by a combination of skin food and massage or by the use of a suction cup. The best skin foods all contain lanoline and many women fear to use it because it has the reputation of growing hair. This danger can be avoided if the skin food is properly used. First, wash your face thoroughly, and dry it more than thoroughly. Leave not & speck of molsture upon it. Now apply the skin food and massage well, using upward and outward strokes, never downward. Then wash out the skin food with pure soap and water and dry thor- oughly. The reason & growth of hair foliows the use of skin food is that the pores are damp and the ofl sticks in the pores. The following is an excellent formula for skin food. White wax, 1 ounce; spermaceti, 1 ounce; lanoline, 2 ounces; sweet almond oil, 4 ounces; cocoanut oll, 2 ounces; tincture of benzoin, 30 drops: orange flower water, 2 ounces. Meit the first five ingredients together. Take off the fire and beat until nearly cold, adding tle to th nzoin, and lastly on sale at any nd costs from 50 half a glass, To use this the face in the press the bulb and tach them the e skir upward and outward, covering face a8 ou possibly can on cheek, n press buld and the glass edges. Start again iddle of the chin and work way upward and outward on the cheek. Always clean the cup oughly after using. A common se of hollow, sagging cheeks is bad eeth. No w n who makes a pretense to good looks can afford to have one tooth missing from her mouth. Cos- tistry has made It possible to 114 up a new tooth on a mere frag- ment or shell, and teeth are even ted In the gums. Porcelain fillings are now preferred to gold, which make the teeth look dark, and porcelain false teeth are preferred to the more con- splcuous gold crowns. Great hollows the jaws cause not only sagging eeks, but uncleanliness of the mouth, offensive breath, indigestion and mal- nutrition. The girl who has a homely nose gener- ally thinks her case hopeless. If the nose is badly formed a surgical operation is sometimes necessary, but these are de- fects that can be remedied by patient ef- forts at home. Many noses owe their un- peliness to too vigorous use of a handkerchief. This very essential article of dress should be used .gently. It was not tended to wring the nose with, nor yet to rub the nose up or sidewise. One cause of the bulbous red nose is the too strenuous use of the handkerchief when it is twisted roughly around the nostrils. Sometimes & nose becomes inflamed and swollen because the nasal passages are not in a healthy condition. In cases of chronic catarrh so simple a treatment as ng up tepld salt water will curg the catarrh, but reduce the swellf of the noze and the size As soon as the nasal passages are cleared and the nose is in a healthy condition the patient will stop breathing through the Then by contracting the nostrils not only of the nostril mou through artificlal means the size of lue nostril will be further reduced. When- ever she is alome let her draw In the breath sharply, contracting the nostrils as she does so and hold hem in this position as long as possible before ex- pelling the breath very gently through the nostrils. If you have not patlence for this ex clse, done persistently and patiently, buy on at the HERE is present mome of a revival o n the disfavor he dual standard in Hereafter we are stand- ter going to test one a we view him ically there iring-rod for ter of fact we f exte of conduct be- man in . The dea- who is re- to his ap- John, have “Yes, sir.” molasses?’ “Yes, up to prayers,” a essor in modern lly as many s side 1t ch *h as within for one, believe that the churéh, eve thoug its own ethical ideals need estatir is on a high- e world professor of glol n every man who wants considered decent is by one standdrd in . processes and departments of his If after a day downtown which s spent in trying to outwit his com- r. to overcharge his customer, to down to starvation point the wages of his help, that man returns to his com- fortable and spacious home, greets his wife with a kiss of genuine affection, put s around his children, asks them v about their studies and sports, en has a kind word for the dog— scale his t end even nde! all this demonstration of husbandry and paternal interest is not going to balance off the rotten gealings downtown a few hours before. After all the exposures of the past year no one is going to have the temerity to say: '‘Oh, well, Mr. Money- bags is a pretty sharp trader, but you should see him in his home. He Is just lovely to his wife and children. And what a generous giver he is to all good causes.” That apology has served its uses, if it ever had any. Moneybags will have to walk right up to the ten commandments and the beautitudes and submit to thelr belng applied to every waking active moment of his life. On the other hand, a man’s private life is going to be taken sharply into ac- count in judging his fitness for public office. Sooner or later, and we trust sooner rather than later, public senti- ment will demand that no man of noto- riously immoral private life, no man, for example, who puts away his wife In or- der to take another, shall be at the head of great fiduclary concerns. All this means that character cannot be dismembered llke the human body, and one part of it pronounced sound and the other diseased. We cannot wall off certain large domains and say that they are exempt from the highest tests. We cannot cheat a rallroad system out of even § cents—no, not even if that rail- road has been cheating the public for years—and then salve our consclence by bestowing a copper upon the next beggar we meet. The clean life is what we want—never mind just now about the simple or the strenaous type. Wwe want the life that is white from center to circumference, that glistens with purity when the light of truth is thrown upon every part. If we can't be anything else this coming year, let us be clean in the inward parts, for the day of the double standard is rapldly drawing to its close. BEDUCING FACIAL ! 2 small instrument which looks very much like a clothespin and fasten this on either side of the nostrils when you retire. It is not uncomfortable and it can be bought at any first-class surgical in- strument shop. There is nothing which coarsens a woman’s face more than large, spreading nostrils. An evil which follows closely on the train of breathing through the mouth is drooping lines around the mouth, a sag- ging, aged expression and a double chin. When these defects appear strenuous measures are needed. Buy a chin strap at any house dealing in surgical Instru- ments or tie up your chin, as you would for teothache, with a soft silk handker- chief. This will force you to breathe through the nose and reduce your double chin. The girl who walils over her retreat- ing chin can improve its shape by sit- ting persistently with the palms of her hands under the chin in such a way that they thrust the chin forward. This will not be accomplished quickly. It will take months. But even as a retreating chin is a sign of weakness of the will, so the persistent, patfent effort to thrust the bone forward will strengthen the weak will it indicates. The remedy will not work unless you realize every minute that there is pres- sure under the chin. Unless a mouth is hopelessly large, you can mold its shape by your own will. Italians say that the eyes show the soul as God made it, the mouth shows what we have made of our own souls. Just as NEW YORK, Feb. 12, 1806. VERYBODY has had a great deal to say about the girl with the openwork stockings and the low shoes who went abroad in snowy wintry weather and died of pneu- monia. Men especially, who have to wrap themselves up warmly and who hate fresh air, however it be administered, so much more than women do, have been particularly observant of women's weak- ness in the matter of fetching but non- protective footgear. This winter, however, those’ who rant at the inconsistencies of fashion and her constant deflance of the laws of good health have had a new topic to wonder about. That is the short sleeve craze, which has persisted in staying over the warm season Into the winter, and which has also insisted on the enlargement of its realm until it included street as well as house costumes. Thereupon all the girls without question, regardless of comfort, convenience, good sense and all those other unimportant items which are sup- posed, quite erroneously, to be matters of consideration in connection with fine frocking, proceeded to have their winter jackets made up with sleeves reaching only to the elbow. You may see girls any day on Fifth avenue during the promenade hour, garbed in velvet or broadcloth, with fur collars or boas hanging almost to their you develop your character, just so will the shape of your mouth change. Re- press anger, smile when you feel an in- CALL. z v 4 AR A MORTON citnation to pout and keep the corners of the mouth turned upward with cheerfulness if you want a pretty mouth. 1f the lips are swollen and thick, use this lotion: Melt an ounce of any of the cold creams, add ons gram each of pulver- ized tannin and alkanet ehips; let macerate for five hours, then strain through cheesecloth. Apply to the lips when necessary. Another method of reducing the lips is to take infinite care with your enun- clatfon. Speak slowly and distinctly, as actors do. This will strengthen the muscles of the lips and reduce the flab- feet; with befeathered hats, huge, warm mufts and floating vells; in fact, with every possible protection for every part of tha person which money can buy or commercial Interest devise, except for their ankles and elbows. But this fsn’t pretty, say the arbiters of fashion. It doesn't matter that it {~ un- comfortable, but it looks so uncomforta- ble, and besides it spoils one’s elbows for evening dress. Therefore the short- sleeved young person has evolved the gartlet, which Is now as necessary an item of the aceessories of her tollet as its larger original. The gartlet performs for the fashion- ably long street glove exactly the same office as that which the garter performs for the stocking. The gartlets clasp the glove above the elbow, holding it tightly They are made of elastic about half an inch wide and covered on both sides with black ribbon, shirred together along the edges. Where they join a little black ‘bow or rosette is placed, or many prefer fancy buckles of either rhinestones or real gems and gold. When buckles are used the gartlets are made to pull to- gether, and can therefore be adjusted in size to any arm. With evening gloves gartlets are not worn. For holding them in place a very| narrow elastic is sewed around the top of the gloves, which is then tucked under by the wearer so that it will not show. Those, however, who are wise in fash- jon’s whims declare it will not be long before most elaborate gartiets are worn in the evening. KATHERINE =1 v o biness, giving them gentle curves and a better contour. The girl with outstanding ears can undergo a slight operation, the cutting of tendons back of her ear, but this is not necessary if she will patiently work out her own salvation at home. She is probably sleeping, and has been since childhood, with the ears bernt forward, instead of lald close to her head. To cure this habit, make a skeleton cap of tapes which cross over the ears, around he forehead, and over the head, and sleep in it every night. The girl with the brownish neck and shoulders and who because of this af- fliction Is barred from wearing decol- BY MARGARET E. SANGSTER. (Copyright,1906, by Joseph B. Bowles.) NE evening last autumn I had the pleasure of being & guest In a great school for girls. The school building, which is ample and beautiful, stands on a hilitop and all around it are acres of garden and meadow, with a lake where the girls row in summer and skate In winter; trees under which they walk and every beautiful condition that can make the surroundings ideal. Looking at those winsome school- girls I seemed to ses beyond them a much larger throng, girls whom I meet every week, although I do not actually touch their hands nor hear their volces. To this great company of girls who shall presently be the young women of the future I have a little sermon to preach to-day. The old-fashioned way was to divide sermons under three heads. Unless a girl h pluck she will find herself many a time at odds with life. It requires pluck of no mean order to sit in @ dentist's chair and endure the agony known as treating a tooth. It requires pluck to go with a little sister or brother to this same friendly adjunct of the fam- ily and sit by while the little victim has teeth straightened or a tooth removed. Pluck fs far more necessary when the difficulty is not merely physical, but Is moral and calls for the kind of courage that mekes one bear reproof patlently, or speak the truth when to say so may make one unpopular. Without real, gen- uine plyck few of us can get through the day's work with credit. You all remember the little rhyme that you were taught almost as soon the alphabet—*“If at first you don’t succeed, try, try again.” The lesson in this bit of homely verse is one for you and me. Be- ginnings are easy enough: we start out with a falr wind and a flowing sall, and our boat goes dancing over the waves, but the true test comes when we have to A SERMONETTE TO GIRLS. EXERCISE For LZEDUCING DOUBLE CHIN lete gowns, can soon cure her trouble. Maks a cape of canton flannel like the one shewn in the illustration and every night dip it in the following solution and wear it all night: Bichloride of mercury in coarse pow- der, 10 grains; distilled water, 1 pint. Agitate the two together untll & comge~ plete solution is obtained. Then add one-half ounce of glycerine. Apply with a small sponge as often as agree- able. This is not strong enough to blister and skin the face in average cases. It may be Increased or reduged in strength by adding to or taking from the amount of bichloride of mer- cury. Do not forget that this last in- gredient is a powerful poison and should be kept out of the reach of ehil- dren and ignorant persons. Never forget to keep the botile la- beled “Poigon.” The Ingredients are not dangerous when used externally. (Copyright, 1508, by T. . McClure.) row against wind and tide or to manage our course when the storms beat and the winds rave. To drop the metaphor, most of us enjoy taking the initiative with & new study or a new enterprise. Our commencement !s with enthusiasm, but presently we reach irregular verbs or abstruse problems, and our ardor damp- ens. Of the three P's, punctuality is prob- ably the most important, because, you see, If you are not punctual, you are & thief. It is a dreadful thing to be & thief. Hosts of people who would not steal dlamonds or gold or break Into houses or pick pockets have no hesi- tation whatver In robbing others of something as preclous, namely. time. When you fall to keep an appointment at the right moment, when you come dawdling In five or ten minutes late, whether it be a recitation, a committes meeting or any other appointment, you have wasted what did not belong to you —the time of other and busy folk. Wa prove that we can be punctual when- ever we catch a train that Is scheduled to leave the station at a certain hour. Knowing well that trains do not awaft the convenience of passengers, or ocean steamers tarry at the wharf a moment after the hour fixed for salling, we are punctual if we are starting on a jour- ney or a voyvage; but we are much less apt to be punctual, for instance, about entering church in seasom, or reaching a friend’s home at the moment we were asked. To be late at dinaer, as every one knows, is an unpardonable sin, and when you are old enough to be dinner guests you will discov that you must be punctual then o be punctual now. It is quite as o be a little in advance of ¢ ¢ v nts as to he a little behind ver allow your- self to be spoken of as t tardy Miss Emily or the late Miss lice. Pride yourself on being known as one who is as punctual as the sun. The morning bell has mouth gold In its