The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, February 18, 1906, Page 12

Fo! AUGUSTA PRESCOTT. BY ugly eans some- hionab very pronoun ar & train in the on ng ful and for A very inex- hen p yoke and it appear is. That is g up gowns, and ery year. Make as you can. hi as eleg: A Woman Who Dresses Well. omer who is marvelous. ver knew & woman who le as she. sicken a on as It ess allowance would accustomed to a great deal and & small amount to the yet she dresses exquis- the secret is the way ne way ehe manages. es advantage of the bargain might almost be taken s when things are icke up dress lengths at catches up remnants when this way she always the house. Now, keen t she is, she is watching for nese summer materials and for the white Japanese silks tripe: ing through them. ced any way and, get- 004 sales, she saves & great ey. ess &s well particularly piece of economy is to e manner in which she clothes. I have just re- olet colored cloth which has regularly every season for I have now turned it out ew and for & cost of $§. It a little fullness at the shoulder; the sieeves had to be shortened and vel- e jacket, which was d to have wide roliing lapels corded with narrow gold cord kirt was treated to the tiniest iolet cording. It was very nd the result is & new gown. r who, by the way, boasts ' ver wears out her clothing, is always very well dressed. She makes 1t be very exactly gowned— Her station in so- she cannot afford to Her dress is a model in s and she always looks as stepped out of a be observed % preserves say. rule is to buy caretully. She prices for her gow She b past two 2 year, and these, with eled dresses, keep her looking art. This spring she is buying ndsome plum-colored cloth gown. hat s a plum-colored chenille, cal- worn all the year around whizh is slightly raised, to be side, THE SAN FRANCISCO SUNDAY CALL. HAT OF BRONZE AP VIOLET she has placed a handsome a e new @ which will ial bird, millin- creations ¢ be one of t Y W ter. The Woman in Plux “Throughout she is to Owning a pair of patent leather shoes, she is having plum made to wear with then come very low « v are to be high. They the skirt, of which they “The suit, all a lovels plum, is made with a skirt whose very snug. Around the hips some extra plaits set in so that the s looks like a full plaited skirt. There rows of braid coming from the belt d ward—all plum colored. And there is a m-colored girdle with amethyst kie and there is an m with ad- table sleeves Adjustable sleeves are should know all that they are so use they will be so mu make a pa »w the low ettes top 1s there are own- things a woman yout, for the reason also be worn this spring. cut your v oft Then u add a but ause ust bel elbow turn-back velvet t cloth perheps in m., i You have ow a handsome pa f elbow sieeves But you do not al want to wear el- bow sleeves, and I where the new e comes must make a deep, handsome ve long enough to reach from the elbow to the st. And this you must button in under your elbow sleeve. When it is in place the joining cannot possibly be detected. But mild days, when you would wear long oves, you can unbu it off and wear your The idea is certainly worthy of much copying. Many of the new F gowns will have this detachable lower sleeve. “But to return to the plum-col ored suit which is now complete even plum-colored suede gloves be add n should be, a plum sik umbrella is can be bought in full size, or made to order upon your own umbrella frame. And when you have secured a dycd leather hand- bag, just to match, you wiil be as com- plete as one could wish 'to be. Your out- fit will pass muster anywh It can be nd again next slightly altered in the fall spring. Save Your Old Glothes. “The clever dressers are those who save thelr suits from year to year, mak- ing the slight changes neccssary. As they accumulate & considerable number in the course of three or four years, they can always appear well yned. There I8 no sameness in thei earance, Three or four suits of ¥ blue Is not too many, providing they are all in good con- dition and well reshaped for the season; and the same with brown and tan and with other standard colors. “This is quite & little sermon on dress. But it may solve the problem which so many women tackle every season of Keep- ing well gowned on a limited allowance. Many women complain that they get tired of thelr clothing. They would not do this f they were to preserve it, remodel, it, touch it smartly here and there with new buttons and braid, and hang it away to be worn when needed. “But in concluding this little sermon, here is a parting shot: Don’t try to re- model your gown yourself. You may be able to make up new material so that it looks very well. But you cannot handle old stuff end have it come out credit- ably unless you are very clever indeed, It takes the practiced hand of a profes- sional to make an old gown look like new. The amateur will certainiy come to deep grief.” Very soon it will be the street gown that is most important and the Easter parade will be under way. Then will come the hunt for something pretty and becoming and a long hunt it need not be. Sand color will be seen in all kinds of cloth and made up with brown or with pomegranate red it is beauti.al. A dressy touch is given by a little velvet upon the cuffs and around the neck. "HANDSOME DILESS FOR, THE SPRING & The day turnin especially f the little velvet collar is re- early all the spring gowns, the imported ones, have velvet collar and The latter is by no means heavy; often there is only a tab et placed upon the cuff or a nar- row strip around the neck, just enough to afford relief.and make a bit of color. The Colors for Spring. Such pretty color combinations as there will be thiz spring! Everything either matches or is in harmony, yet the tones such a bright note of color. In the s there is a pretty deep blue, quite ew dark blue, and, to trim it, there ade of indigo velvet which makes the prettiest of collars and cuffs. Then there is a lighter shade of blue which Is pretty for pipings and for nar- bands. And, so, one gets a varlety r the main tone is well pre- cu of vel comes row col served. . yet It is a very fashionable woman who stepped into the shop of a modiste the other day and asked to see the new spring Some very handsome yellow browns were shown her and a varlety of reds. She also saw the heliotropes and the me spring violets and plum colors. hands colors, of which there are several. “For my spring wardrobe,” sald she, “I shall select tan and burnt orange, sand brown, pavement gray and coral red. With these tones I can succeed in getting something harmonious.” And succeed she did, for her recent street gown is charming in its simplicity. All of brown check, tiny brown and white, it is piped with coral and worn ‘with a pony jacket of brown cloth trimmed with brown braid. Her hat is a pretty thing in brown felt with coral quills. Another suit is In burnt orange brown, trimmed with seal brown braid, and set oft with touches of black brald and a lit- fle gold. This makes a very fetching combination for the dull days of early spring. Three women walked into a handsome restaurant the other day for 5 o'clock tea. They wore gowns that were a little too nice to be called shopping dresses, yet not quite fine enough for receptions. The dress of one was a purple plum cloth, with an invisible stripe of black running through it. There were the nar- rowest cordings of gold braid around the edge of the long coat, for it was a suit sting of skirt and ‘seven-eighths The second one wore & typical spring sult, for it was a violet cloth made with little straight pony jacket and plaited skirt. There were bands of hellotrope velvet upon the front, bordered by bands of very pale lavender velvet, while the hat wag violet trimmed with bunches of the same flowers. The Pretty New Trimmings. The third wore a spring check. There are to be so many checks this year! It ‘was a dainty little woolen check in coral and white. It had no trimming what- ever, unless one can count a very little coral colored velvet to exactly match the checks. And this formed the collar and cuffs and the girdle also. A great deal might be sald about the new trimmings, both for day and for evening. A fashionable evening color is butter color, and there are lovely wraps of butter colored cloth, made for wear now énd later. Trimming plays a very important part in the making of a fash- ionable wrap. In buying & cloak or evening wrap one should be careful to get something that can be worn later. And this is not a difficult task just nmow, for a great va- riety is offered. Chiffon is mot quite as popular as it was. Btill, one sees very beautiful effects in chiffon over silk, with handsome hand embroidery to make a fine design. There are lovely cloaks of butter colored silk, covered with lace, with a silver threau outlining the design in the lace. This is fashionable to be worn now and latér and kept for nice ‘Wwear next season. But there are more serviceable things, and among these one can count the white cloth cloaks, made up with many ap- pliques of tan colored lace and ecru lace and white. They use three or four shades of lace to trim the white cloth cloaks, with the result that the cloak looks smarter and keeps clean longer. A pretty idea popped into the head of a modiste who had a sofled old white satin waist to remodel. Taking it to the clean- er's she brought it back quite renovated. Then she trimmed it with torchon lace in a deep ecru tone, with ruffles of the same around the elbows. The walst look- ed llke one of the new French waists just imported for evening wear. Among the new things one can mention sand color, which this year is the color of New Jersey sand, quite red and made up with a deeper shade resembling terra cotta. Another variety of sand color is a rich brown of a hue which one might almost call mud color. Indeed, these three tones, sand color, terra cotta and mud color, formed the background and basis for one of the handsomest of spring outfits. Buy Your Spring Trousseau. In these days everything is a trousseau. The bride orders one for her wedding; the baby is furnished with one; the woman in Europe buys her holiday trous. seau to bring home and the girl who it preparing for summer buys her summer trousseau. It means a pretty outfit of new garments, wherever and however used, and by whom. In the new things, recently observed in a bridal trousseau, there were some which will prove of interest to the woman who is getting up her spring outfit. One was a gown of pavement gray velvet, made princess. It was cut without a break from neck to train, and was made up faultiess in fit and without one speck of trimming of any kind—save mround the neck. Here there was set a deep square yoke of Irish point lace with a pair of black velvet suspenders going over the shoulders and fastened with sil- ver buckles. The woman who may happen to have an old princess gown In her wardrobe, whether it be of velvet cloth, of silk or of any other material at all, can bring it up to date by shirring the sleeves un- til they are at elbow length. Shirr them on the inner gide and pull them to the elbows. Now make your yoke, which may be of any kind of white lace or of ecru or even BROVIH ETO7Y CoAT TRITITTED WITH FINKAND &0LD old yellow lace. Make it as deep as you can and as square as possible, as this 1s the princess style of yoke. Cut it high in the neck and let it hang square front and back. Fasten it to the walst with black velvet straps put on exactly like suspender straps but extending only to the bust line. It desired you can add fancy metal buckles and you can make your straps of Persian emproidery or of brilliantly colored silk. This is a matter of taste. Another new thing is the treatment of an Alice biue cloth gown which was made up for spring wear either with or with- out a coat. The gown was made with plaited hips, lald ever so small and stitched ever so flat. Then came a great fullness which gradually increased until the skirt lay in voluminous folds around the feet. The waist was made in blouse fashion, buttoning cown the back, and the sleeves were the conventional elbow sleeves. But the main feature lay in the trim- ming, which was complicated and beauti- ful. Yet it cunsisted of nothing but hand embroidery. The waist had two empire wreaths embroidered in Alice blue silk. The wreaths were connected by a pretty chain of embroidered leaves. Below there were diamonds of embroldery with an embroidered ornament at each point. The skirt had a square of embroidery upon the front and In the m middle of the square was an embroidered flower. -rmn, design was repeated at each side and down the front and back ywhere diamonds and wreath Al was done in the selfsame > tone so that the gown was spic- uous for street wear, th s a lit- tle long, being dragsgly and back and sides, in the accepted French s Something new In a street dress was scen the other day at a women's lunch- eon. The gown was sand color, and trimming it were els of ecru em- broidery put on from the belt downward. The walst was trimmed In the same man- ner. Thia was as smart as it could be, and it was another of those styles which appeal to the woman who does her own dressmaking, for it was very simple to make. “We made front trim a great many gowns with pleces of embroidery,” said a modiste. “It saves lots of worry and lots of time. The customer brings the gown to us, usually a handsome piece of tan colored cloth. Then she goes away and comes back with some lovely panels of ecru embroidery, usually pleces of Ori- ental silk of an ecru tint with a great deal of work indicated. These pleces can be purchased everywhere, with the em- broidery i any tone 8esired. And with these a gown can be trimmed very hand- somely. We apply the strips of embroid- ery to cloth, to silk, and to all other ma- terfals used in dressmaking. They will be quite the senmsation of the summer." ' “What are the newest things?” asked a wealthy patroness languldly of her modiste. Tabs, “And 2s m Tabs are ves trim fronts Tabs possib It madam,” sald the modiste 1y of them as you can find employed to trim waists, s and sleeve caps and tabs acks, belts and bodices. made as fancily as everywhe z ked that, under the mes paillettes, bits of ments and crocheted th nty effects come buttons which adorn all the mmings and them come the ornaments which are taking the » of the, buttons and which must be be appreciated. Flowers em- upon circles of canvas make new ler t to lered a ornaments for reception dresses and circles of cloth with roses embroidered thereon, so that they set out as though they were stuffed, are handsome bits of trimming for a call- ing dress. Then one sees the embroid- ery bands and the very handsome neck- ers and cuffs all made of embroidery. A great many gowns will be cut this spring absolutely without necks. The fronts will be crossed, making a V shaped uneck, while the back will be cut rounding and quite low. This allows the guimpe, the necker and the chemisette; and there will be many a variety of these articles. Beautifully finished neckers will be worn, the em- broidery all done by hand upen silk; and there will be beautiful embroidered yokes to be put on as one puts on walst, separate and detachable, ready to be worn with any gown. L