The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, February 4, 1906, Page 12

THE SAN FRANCISCO SUNDAY CALL’ She. Will Have Boas for Aw- Boas for Street & ané for Calling, and ¥ Ihen She Will Have a Great ¥ Variety of Flufly Neck Pleces to Throw Around Her Neck § or Beauty and Style. 8 AUGUSTA PRESCOTT. OVER. VECTS r conceiv- out and rag bag ests of the eded for the the are n inter is decidedly be this shape or must be made of it wide and flat and laid with long tabs Or it can be like a string. very long and chin in Ascot fashion e are ever 80 many ways of wear- tty plece of neck fur- t be said that most ers, e front & this very g m are good k become so much a stan- ¢ d article of dress t low for it and tes count upon it. They bull@d e dresses s0 that the boa, aside from ury, becomes an actual ne- t must be worn on all ocea- or the costumeé will not be com- I am cutting d11 the coats a low in the neck,” said a ladies “This little tailor. is to allow for boa which is we round the throat, and which ' he place of the collar. All coats low to allow for the fur nmeck which is so made that it fits the & piece eck of the gown has quite disappeared e of the earth and there are of any kind. The high en- throat has gone out entirely not see it save occasion- pon the thickest of auto pon the heavy coats for driving. And all the big collars are gone; efen the STREET DRESSES oF RotEWoDS’ PLUM standing collar is sel e world wears the 1i jafket without a neck and with this univérsal at a!l the world must wear the r neck piece. How Collarcttes Are Changing. a time—oh, lo ed m seen. Once upon fur collarette s bought 2 boa a was worn out. C worn at all it was brough oat, more beauty vle. you wore it until it mild days it was not in ped around atter of warmth and But e a different as It wore forever 1e next one n of 1908 num- eces that she amphor chest the approach modish rs 80 m tle s compelled to h ny 1 ver ¥ OF FLANNEL OoR OMAMOIE woman, thoroughly “up-to-date in all ways, she does not store them at all, but she buys a nice little;scented wood chest, something like a cédar chest, and in this she puts her furs in the spring- time. When she goes away she takes them with her. She wears them all the year around. She is mnever without something pretty in the fur line to throw around her throat. The woman who makes any preten- sion to fashion this year is the owner of a nice little cloth suit. This may be, and generally is, an eton coat. Of course, it is prettily trimmed, and the eton, which is in one of the new and pretty shades, is decorated with a touch of gold and a tiny line of a contrast- ing color. 3 This suit she wears on all but the bitterest days, and with it she puts on a smart little set of furs, costing as much as she cares to pay. At one of the shops they had a muft and boa sale, and a very pretty sale it was. The sets were of the inexpensive kinds of fur, but pretty, for the dark furs looked wonderfully like sable and the gray fyrs might almost pass for squirrel and chinchilla. The sets, muft and boa, the latter trimmed with tafls, cost something like $18. This was very reasonable, indeed, when one consid- ered their very neat apearance. With a dark cloth coat the effect was ex- tremely goo®. But when it comes to naming the price of furs one gets hopelessly adrift. One can spend so very much If one cares to do so. It is like buying dia- monds. One can pay a modest amount or one can pay much. Big New Plllow Muffs. The big, soft, white furs are very smart. And they cost a heap of momey. The You neck pleces are flat and lie around the shoulders in charming style, while the ends ape long and floating. With the flat neck piece there is a big muff. It is as big as the biggest plllow you ever saw, for there are no small muffs this season. Muffs—and it 1s none too late to speak of them, for now is when the knowing women buy—are made in two ways. ‘Thére is the big round muff, as big as a pillow and slightly flattened, in plllow shape; and there is the flat muff, as flat as it can be cut and rather triangular. Either of these shapes is good. 5 A eniart muff for early spring, and one that is not too warm to carry t up to Easter Sunday, is built of fur which is laid in wide plaits along the bottom of the muff. It gives the effect of a big ruf- flle of fur. It is built on the plan of the flat muff, and there are pockets in it, and of course a wide apartment into which the hand slips. But it 4s of the neck piece that one would speak, for interest centers in it these days. JWomen surround the coun- e — HAND ~MADE. _ STALIAN" VaACE. RECEPTION ters on which the fur neck pleces are ais- pieyed, .and women stand looking at the windows where they hang upon thelr swinging frames or are draped upon lay figures. One lovely form of meck piece is flat, like a fur collar. At the front there is deep rumMe of lace, set right upon the edge of the fur collar. Then come two long stole ends of fur, that hang down to the belt line and below-it. Then the ends are trimmed with lace. They trim fur amazingly this season. You can take your boa and trim it very nearly as you would trim a bit of cloth. You can take an old neck plece of Per- sian iamb and make it over so that it looks like new. There are long flat fur ends and these must be trimmed with ermine, which is cut in circles so that the” “eYes” show. And these circles are put on the Persian lamb tabs in the prettiest possible fashion. [ Or you take your long Persian lamb meck plece and trim it with velvet. Take some green velvet, the shade 'of your kv A MINIG MUPF MADE BY ARRAYGING SEVER,AL -POAS $IDE BY SIDE—., (b U YRR DS ISI O TOROWN RUSSIAN SABIE, COAREITE ~= MUFP ... green cloth dress. Set it in a ruffc all around your neck piece so that it falls below it, making it look larger and im- measurably grander. Then get Lalf & dozen big emeraléd buttons and button up the cdllarett~ from chin to tip. This will finish it very smartly, The Modiste and Her Inspiration. The boa fad is one of the best dress fads that could overtake a woman. By its ald, and encouraged by its prettiness, she becomes one of the best dressed women fn town. So completely does it rule the dress that, if well managed, it transforms a costume from something doubtful igto a thing of much beauty. There {8 a story told of a French woman, over whom the modiste labored in vain. Her frock simply refused to be becoming or even to look nice. It was a glossy cloth of that faint shade known as orchid pink. It was almost a violet, ome of those pretty subtle things which charm the bye and hold the interest. But unfortunately in this case it refused to be becoming. The skirt, a rounrd walking length, with three deep tucks, looked dowdy, and the walist, . which was a smart little coat shape, would not look fit. There was something the matter. One day the modiste had an inspiration. She chose some ermine of the kind known as French ermine, It was pure white without the ‘“‘eyes,” and upon this and around it she sewed numerous ruffles of pale violet chiffon. She took the ermine shoulderette and fairly made the edges flutter with violet chiffon ruffles. Then she made a billowy muff with a founda- tlon of ermine, with a mass of chiffon ruffles around the edge. The result was good. The neck piece and the muff made a finish. It gave the just something which the costume lacked. The wide fur collarettes are lovely if one can afford them: They are particu- larly prétty in chinchilla or in ermine, trimmed with many tails of white tipped with black. But, when one {s speaking of these, why cannot one mentiow the sables, those gorgeous black things with their silver tips on their tips of blue. There are sables this year that cost more than a Czar's ransom. They are worth ten times their weight In gold. There Are Some Expensive Furs. It is not harm to mention expensive things, even though one does not advo- cate buying them. And one might as well speak of the Russian furs, which have cume to this country in very small quan- titles this season, and which are worth a very great deal. A Fifth-avenue woman has a sable set which cost $15,000. There “wus & round boa, which lay around her neck and fell down the front‘of her skirt. Then there was a.big muff. When asked if she did not consider the price extrava- gent, she replied: “Oh, dear, no. One of my friends paid $40,000 for a collarette and a muff, and ‘1 know one who has prom- ised to pay $80,000 if the skins can be secured, but, unfortunately, 'they are of a kind of sable which one can sel- dom get. The fur shows the very slightest tip of pure silver and the sable skins are ‘'so scarce that it may take three seasons to get enough for a big muff and a neckpiece.” Very charming mink sets come to throw around the neck. They are flat, but not so very wide, and they .are shaped to tl neck. ‘They are long enough to lle around the shoulders and to fall rather low upon the skirt. Mink {s becoming to many persons who can stand its stiff beauty. And the mink as it was years ago. It Is never a cheap fur and is consequently always {nteresting and good. It is the very smart thing to have as many fur neck pleces as ome has s and to wear them to match 1e's hat, or one’s coat or any other rominent article of dress, so that all shall harmonize. It is good taste to match your furs to your cloth if you can; and there is great rivalry these days to see whose chinchilla shall match the best or whose ermines, sables and squirrels shall be most like her gown. One may think that the choice of gowns Would be limited. But such is not the case. for furs were never more numerous and one can get the pretty imitations and the new shape furs in almost every color un- der the sun. A Costume in Mahogany Red. There is an ultra smart woman in New York City whose winter gown this year is a curious shade of red, something llke mahogany red. With it she wears a pretty Ascot tle of fur and she carries a flat muff. The furs are made of barnyard calf, with the hide on, all the pretty red and white of the fur or hide showing perfectly. The hair is almost an exact match for the suit. The feather boa was never as nice as it is now. It comes at all prices and you can get a lovely one for about §$30. Of course you can get a pretty good one for a great deal less. Or, if you want to go high, you can pay as much as $100. There is this nice thing about the fashion this year that there is a very wide range of prices. Your feather boa can cost you as much or as litt{e as you want to pay. It is considered very sweil to have your feathers dyed. You can take them and have them colored a handsome Russian blue to wear with your Rus- sian blue suit, or you can stick to white. A lcvely feather boa was made in violet hued feathers, with the violet shading into whitg. This made a very handsome ornameént for the neck and one which you could not help admiring because it was so extremely becoming. It {8 very interesting to note how be- conting the feather boa is, particularly when it is tipped and colored and made to match the costume. It takes on quits elegant air and gives the cos- tume ¥ tone. There are stories told of how you can make your feather boa for yourself. But, truth to tell, it is a very difficult thing to do, and the amateur should go about the task tremblingly, for it is one of those cases where a mistake s fatal. The boa must be perfectly con- structed to be effsctive. There ar: boa fads as well as boa conventionalities and one of the fads is for the fancy bod In several shades of Alfce blue to match an Alice blue gown. It should be big and fluffy and thrown around the neck in careless fashion. It can be fastened with a lit- tle gold clasp and chain. There must be a big, fluffy muff to match and the muft should be flat and all trimmed with_frills. P3 The Boa and Shoe Fad. The boa materials are small silk flowers, which are mixed with tiny rib- bon loops; silk mousseline, which is ruffied and ‘made into a great fluffy rope; chiffon and gauze, which are mixed together and puffed upon a stiff foundation, and taffeta, which makes a charming boa. There are many fancy materials which are impressed into the service and one can find countless pretty stuffs whiclh will help in the boa scheme. s From the fancy boa to the fancy slipper is not such a far cry, for both are worn in the house. They come in ‘collar s as fashionable now ' gets, if one patronizes a very fashjon- ablé modiste. In one case there Was & very pretty soft wool house dress for luncheon. It was in delicate gray. Around the shoulders there lay a dell- cate gray chiffon and mousseline boa, while the feet were clad in gray silk stockings and gray kid slippers. A touch of pink was seen in the girdle, in the ruchings upon the stock, and in the little ribben rosette which was fastened in the hair. Slippers in every case must match the gown, and one can expect to see pretty pink slippers, blue ones in the latest shade of dull blue, butter col- ored yellow slippers and green ones with pretty rosettes to match all of these hues. For the street there are shoes :;. match the gown and it is particular swell to have deep’ blue shoes, shoes f brown, shoes in green and In any Slor of which the dress iz made. One would do well to take a plece the cloth of the gown and match one’s shoe tops with it. This seems to give the little touch of elegance which every costume saould have. The girdlo proposition comes in along with that of the boa and the slippers. It is part of every costume and mubt be considered when one is considering the fest. “There are all kinds of gir- dles, just as there are all kinds of boas and all kinds of slippers, but _the weman of economical propensities muat look a little at the price, which is somgthing to be considered in every case. The Small Things of Dress. The shirred chiffon girdles are lovely. They are made upon a foundation and the chiffon is shirred In a very neat fashion, with the shirring running up very. high in the back, but coming down small and narrow in the middle of the front. One gets a fine effect In that manner. A lovely girdle was made of figured ribbon and boned. There was no foun- dation. The ribbon was shirred in the middle of the back and thrée bones were run in. It was very high, In the middle of the front it was narrow and was run with little short bones. There were bones at the sides. The sleeve proposition, which is ene that is ever before the woman who wants to dress well, is lugged in along with the girdle. Sleeves are cut off below the elbow and finished with ruf- fles and puffs. Occasionally one sees them finished with a smart cuff. Upon the cuff there are handsome metal but- tons. The sleeve that is puffed at thé shoulder is a very important thing this season, for it ranks very high in the dress scheme. Below the shoulder it becomes tight fitting. It is cut off just below the elbow and is finished with lace. The lace Is put on in the shape of & p ruffle, with a pufiing above the ruffle. While sleeves dominate the style to a certain extent, there is always some degree of independence about the new skirts, wanich seem to have a way all their own. Skirts are made round and are trimmed with three deep tucks. This style is one of the most generally aecepted of the season’'s modes for the house. Even the plainer of the tailgred costumes show a tendency this way, namely, o the threé deep tueks, with or without any other trimming. One can buy a handsome quality of cloth, cashmere, zibeline, Scottish- geods or serge and make it up quite elegantly with no more detafl than the making of three deep) tucks upon _the skirt, The hips can be finished with the u¢n4 ventional box plaits or wita shirring: For a waist there should be r a plaid silk or a pretty lightweight wool, over which the coat can easily slipped: This makes an idedl trotting suit for everyday wear.