The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, January 14, 1906, Page 15

- WHAT IS THE SOUR § VRS, JOHN JXOD ASTOR TAINTED BYPRINCE TROUBETSKOY, simply through the fa- influence of the environment.” Muller-Ury's turn to speak next. He is a painter of the ideal, and, as a de force, has even executed in oils I of a fashionable New York an as a Madonna, Descended from of Italian princes, he is and looks n of fashion. look for the soul of the woman I ng to paint,” he said. “There, if 1 bring it out, much of her beauty Often, I think, a woman who has t advantage. e hon- se was lies. fask days e ‘were no . . being Passed her first youth is more beautiful ot << com. than she ever was in earlier years, be- se there has been time for a higher development, and there is that in her expression which could not have been discovered when she was a mere To bring out her prettiness to the a woman’s character must develop. VITTORTA- of course, there are many who have of youthownat the DY JUIES 1 va- COLONNA, LEFEPFE b the beauty :’ it ench call the beaute de diable—and =, led “the when that is gone there is nothing left.” Irving R. Wiles, graceful and debonair, jurious in various ways, and in particular they have a tendency to make the nose red.” “What says Prince Troubetskoy?’ ine quired the toastmaster, turning to a fine- who knows how to put more character into a portrait than any other living American painter, hesitated when appeal was made to him for his opinion. “It depend good deal upon the wo- ke beauty in “A woman le ,fj; man, I think,” he sald. “‘Some mature so looking man, cast in large and stalwart . eir youth and good Much earlier than others. One girl may be mold, who sat on his left. m'm,n”s of lite, Prettier at sixteen than at any later “The finest accentuation of beauty is a p 14, prolong their tenure period of her life, while another will not touch of that quality which we call dis- ee Mot only that, Eet her full beauty until she is twenty- tinction,” replied the husband of Amelle Rives. “It is for this I look when I paint the portrait of a woman."” “But all women cannot have distinc- tion,” interrupted the toastmaster, “I did not say that they could,” replied the Prince. five, or it may be thirty. The question of ripeness in respect to pulchritude is an accident of constitution and physique. Incidentally, however, if my own observa- tion is of value, the woman who s anxious to retain her good looks and youthful eppearance should avoid tight “There are many types of beauty, rad- corsets and tight shoes. They are in- fcally different,” broke in Blashfield, the O r o e B i A ar O) ugments beauty, not e sense of setting it off, but g and developing it. ually pose better amid For not only but they are n with it and it em to display themselves to ICHEST OF THE WORLD’S GEMS | B a2 O] The discovery of big diamonds is, ac- cording to the famous scientist, not so. uncommon as is generally supposed. Diamonds weighing an ounce are not infrequently found at Kimberley, and the largest diamond discovered there was of 428% carats, or nearly four ounces troy. It is interesting, moreover, to recall the fact that on the very day that the great Premier stone was discovered an- other diamond weighing 120 carats was found on the property. The shape of this brilliant is said to be more regular than that of the Cullinan, and a rough estimate placed its value at £10,000. The Excelsior diamond, weighing 970 carats, to which reference has already been made, was found at the Jagersfon- tein mine in 1803. That the largest stones are not always the best is shown by the fact that the most valuable dia- mond found at Kimberley weighed 150 carats, and was worth £60,000. According to Sir William . Crookes about 2,000,000 carats of diamonds are rections, and could see colors in all cases, the brightest appearing when the light passed along the greatest diameter—about four inches. Here the colors were very fine, but no regular figure was to be seen. These observa- tions show that the diamond is in a state of internal strain.” Sir William also made the interesting statement that more diamonds are found in fragments and splinters than in perfect crystals, and that although these splinters and fragments must be derived from the breaking up of a large erystal, vet in only one instance have pleces been found which could be fitted together, and these occurred at different levels. The stone that comes next after Cul- linan, sald Sir William, is that discov- ered at the Jagersfontein mine (the Ex- celsior), which weighs 970 carats, or over half a pound. The welghts of other large diampnds are: Carats. nouncement that another mond has been found on Diamond Company's especially striking in thin twenty-four hours Crookes’ intimation at other portions of the hond were likely to diamond, weighing or 137 pound aveirdupois, st in the world, while the discovery is mow an- to be practically flaw- s 460 carats, or nearly e weight of the famous jts second cutting. e find are so far forth- he London offices of was recently stated information respecting ad been received. re at Kimberley sSir Wil- Carats. o fter sec- _Duke of Tuscany....133 aking of the Cullinan xobinoor, S6S7 *yogStar of the South..J28 turned out of the Kimberley mines ev- ; Ffls_flflc“‘”‘en:"pmb, Loterle d'Apgie- [FPole Star oo, ery year, and by the end of 1904 ten E It is a r;:?sglr:"eé a7 \.‘u:;: 0 BT Py Hiy tons of diamonds had come from these tof a e B g - Y"“fm, Sancy mines, valued at £60,000,000. This mass - be other POrUIORN UL o ok .194Empre: §L of blazing gems could be accommodated av overy by some fortunate. T, Co;" atter first - Shah . in a box five feet square and six fi gh this unequaled stone I passed “cuing ..........-ST9iNassak & 3 nhigh. s a m of polarized light in various di- Regent or Pitt.. .187{Pacha. ol j MRS, D PAINTED ALZIEL, B8y A FR man whose work in decorative art s measured by the acre. “The milkmaid and the woman who thinks and studies may be, in my opinion, equally beautiful. As for the chief means of beauty, I should say unqualifiedly that it was health. Let the woman who would retain her charms take care of her health, try- ing to conserve it in every possible way, for thus will she keep for the longest possible time those attractions which are so precious to her.” Several of those present bent their eyes upon Professor C. E. Munroe, & merry gentleman, whose spectacles do not dis- guise the twinkle that is always lurking in his eyes. It seemed to be expected that he would speak next, and so, sus- pending a morsel of Roquefort for a mo- ment in the air, he said: “I am speaking in my private capacity, and not as dean of the Columbian Univer- sity in Washington, when I say that the best means that I know for beauty is sensible living.” “Exactly what I should say,” inter- jected the dean’s right hand neighbor— a dark-haired man with an alert man- ner, who had been introduced earlfer in the evening to two or three members of the company, strangers, to him, as Dr. D. 8. Lamb, & famous Government anatomist. “Thtee things a woman should regard as important for the preservdtion of her beauty—diet, sléep and bathing—and of these I should say t$that the first was most essential. To edt the proper kind of food in the SUNDAY CALL. OF ININE BEAUTY? PHYSICAL OR. SPIRITU \OF WLLER -URY “THE, ot proper way and at proper times is a fundamental condition of the health which makes beauty. As a matter of course, the diet ought to be simple. I think that my good friend Dr. Wiley will indorse my opinion.” Dr. H. W. Wiley, chemist in chief or the Department of Agriculture—a man of gigantic physique, full of learning and of jokes, who sat on the opposite side of the table—nodded his head vigorously. “Care in diet is the thing of first im- this abso A PAINTED / portance,” he replied. “And let the food include plenty of fruits and fresh vegetables. They are in high degree a means of health and therefore of beauty.” “I should add that the dlet ought to be varied and the ration ‘balanced properly,” sald Dr. True, head of the Government Bureau of Experiment Sta- tions—a most modest looking man, with eyeglasses. “Of course, that *means that a woman, if she would keep her- self in the best physical condition, should not eat too much bread, potatoes and other starchy foods, to the rela- tive exclusion of meat, or vice versa. Too much sugar should be avoided also. But the esercise of unselfishness affords the greatest encouragement to beauty. An odtward and visible charm 1s derived from the inward and spirit- ual grace. Just as bad traits soon show in the face and become meora strongly visible as years advance, so It is with good tralts, which are reflected, as one might say, in the countenance.” There was a pause while the toast- master looked around the bogrd. Presently, after a moment’s hesitation, his eye fell upon Dr. Frank Baker of the Smithsonian Institution—a .tall Distinguished Painters and Scievtists discuss rbing topic. \ SVINNESS, FAMOUS ENGUISKH_BDEAUTY OY PRINCE TRQUBETSXOY man, long in service in the sclentific work of the establishment mentioned and especially famous as a physiolo- gist. Catching the look of inquiry bent upon him, he smiled and said: “I know of no better advice for a woman who fears to lose her beauty than to dle young. She might, how- ever, provide herself with a husband so fond that his ideals in respect to puichritude would keep pace with the changes of time. But beauty is omne thing and reputation for it is another. “If a woman would retain for the long- est possible time her beauty aand youthful appearance she should lead a pormal, happy life. he should have a clear sonscience, a useful and pleasurable occupation and should enjoy the dreamless.sleep that comes to those who Iive in a healthful way. Unless these conditions are realized even the most beautiful woman will soon lost her physical attractions. Dissipation of all kinds, as we well know, is a de- stroyer of beauty, and so lkewise are anxiety, hard work and exposure. They wear out the body machine. Carelessness in matters of diet undoubtedly does an an's worst enemy, and yet she is by na- ture so ‘friande’—such a lover of dainties, that is to say—that she persists in reck- less eating evem when she knows that It s robbing her of her figure and of the other charms by which she sets such store. In a majority of instances whers women are threatened with excess of flesh they cquld get rid of the tendency and of the undesirable pounds of avoirdu- pois already gained by simply giving up bread and potatoes for a while.” “What is it that good old Brillat Sa- varin says on that point?” querfed the immense amount of damage. Fat is wom- master of the feast, as he raised his glass of champagne again to his lips and looked around the table. “If I remember cor- rectly, he avers that the whole study of a woman’s life is to achieve the exact degree of plumpness which Is neither too much nor too little. But it is surely better to fatten, even though it be to ex- cess, than to shrivel. Do you not recel- lect the lament of ‘Grandmere,’ in the dainty verses of Beranger, who so bitterly regrets the departure of her ‘arm, so plump, and shapely leg’'?— Combien je rexrette Mon bras ef dodu, Ma jame bien faite, Et'le temps perdu. “So, gentlemen, unless somebody thinks of an additional word that he would like to say on this interesting subject, lgt us fill our glasses once again, and drink a toast to the lsdies. May the beauty of those we know last long. and, If at length it shall fade, let the memory of it be to us a lasting joy—consoled as we may be for its loss by the contemplation of the crescent charms of a new and rising gen- eration.” CHOICE READING FOR WINTER. HOSE who wonder how English so- ciety women in their exhausting chase for pleasure manage to kees 50 well Informed in current litera- ture and art and to read so many books of the day, should see the great boxes of books now being sent to Scot- land and the shooting moors addressed to the chatelaines of historic homes. These volumes are not intended to add to the well stocked library or to give the guest something with which to pass the time on rainy days, but are intended for the hostess herself, and she peruses them with avidity in her boudeir. To read to any extgnt during the winter season in which the gamut of excitement is run} or the, other seasons when one repeats the programme under somewhat difficult con- ditions, is*a practical impossibility, and the modern plan of “saving them up for winter” is resorted to generally at present. Soclety women have a system in this pursuit. One makes a specialty of reading all the works of all the leading novelists, while another gives works of fiction a secondary place and devotes her- self to travel. A third goes in for vol- umes with clever conversations which she may make use of, and so on.