The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, January 14, 1906, Page 13

T ey~ Srrzrors SUEDE is be = strong de- mand on the part of for more ex- claims the photog- rapher, looking as it demnity a t the loss that is bound L n follow, so 1 am glad to speak hastily of w jead him to boy- “something else. . cott 1he while il “What do you do with all the ‘energy “We hope so,” chir- YOU Save under the new plan?” a _“Spend it in carrying larger and better stocks of gloves of every kind,” he an- swers with great promptness. black glace is And then, as if fearing I may be looking enough to make any for proof, as indeed I am, he directs that ne take a cheerful the gloves themselves be lald before me 1244: @nd I am soon convinced. Why, for street w r alone there is practically no end of styles. I am told, e gir e (a twenty- rups view of life) & be that yo best to in- that the epring of encourages—insists upo v wearing of larger fit. No more shall admire our s in gloves so tight as to stop the circulation, so tight that bending the ers sufficiently to a purse is a t ity. If the fi 1s what you er tells you a No. thouiu have in theé new Dent finished” pique, d te for weardness of r gloves a quarter size s Be glad It is en af tashionable to be « rtable, and if your joy can thrive v by comparizon, g P reflect on those who must go in for 6+4 or even 6%. They are not so few, ng Perha the athletic girl respon- er y sible for new s for so € w many men’s e e single large pe dress credit be & The fac due there is no doubt the change has come and to stay—for a season, ot o surely Ingrains, dogskin and Russian cape are still pre-eminent by virtue of their splendid wearing ‘guality, but to ng can come the tans and browns, popular ough s t the years, we are now given a new color—black Once you overcome the prejudice built up during the several seasons black glace has been “out” you'll be duly grateful for the departure, for the glove is very handsome and for ser- vice it is in a class by itself. You are not obliged to wear any certain pattern in this; there is pro- ed an ample choice for individual gelection. You may have either the he eye of the dealer the “Dent” or plain finish; one pearl clasp sight or two (like the dictionary, I am put- gement this one of ting preferences first); broad stitching sure of the same color as the glove or of ember an elder day in the two contrasting colors, or the narrow, 1 the gloves gelf-stitching worn so much last year they ever and which is still good color or This use of combination of colors in Leander gtreet gloves is one of the season’s ggestions fancies and manifests itself even in the il three mochas, Those reliable servants of such somber mien are now shown with stitching #nd binding in white, or blue or red—a change that is nothing less 1 what was In- 4y, transfiguration ply of peace and Than these good, gray, reindeer ely 10 the .. nas there is none more comfort- vexation and gure unjess it be the chamols, which is as the mitten of childhood for ease— 2 what the general use .5 tpat they are well appreciated an er meant to bim and this 200 0L o sdle amply proves, They come with lamb’s wool lining for the severely cold weather and no other fur-lined glove can compare with them in neatness and fit. This season’s chamois, by the way, is ‘e us S hear the an improvement over ité predecessors, ble ‘a\:; :‘.:-1\1 x;(u:‘:_\“u'::i not in texture, for long ago perfection e mute testimony of Of softness and pliability was attained, torn bits of kid, of- but in cut and finish. Outseam, strong they were repeated button and buttonhole, with comfort- sistently. able thumb size, now make 8o effec- to admit that any of us tive a plea for popularity that cotton, v to put & number 5% glove on lisle and silk rivals are being tapldly r 6 hand and then demand in- subplanted. Not the least of the merits for time and labor saved, t it s no longer neces- a firm yet diplomatic ef so many reports of gloves e 1 had more than started TR SNFR ) SSSSSRW NG 2\ i 5 —~— a7, B - Ay E THE ' OLD RELIABLE BICHEALN DRIAC THE SAN FRANCISCO SUNDAY CALL. of this glove Is that it may be washed again and again, and, drying quickly, become as good as new. And a good thing it is for the reputa- tion of the American hand that all the so-called texture gloves are being sent v the limbo of oblivion, for a direct result of their almost universal use was a great increase In sizes required, and whereas the American in ‘times not so long ago used many & number 53, or even o, GLOVZED FRON GAHOST CLOFE EHOUSE FATGHAN & ALITZ HOTOS such sizes are now remarkably rare. It will take care and time to overcome this enlarging to an extent that will enable our importers to specify to the Frencn makers shipments such as were once the rule, but it can be accomplished and will be, if the softer gloves are passed over. In further proof that two-toned gloves are the order of this day I am shown oak plque, for one, stitched and bound in red; navy blue with pink binding and rose pearl clasps; oxblood with white; champagne with light blue; gray and dull green. There is no getting away from them and most of the shades are so lovely no one could want them changed In the least degree. But when the new white piques are aisplayed I realize that all the other contrasts were as preliminaries to the real offerings and that the Alexandria is the climax. The glove Itself is unrelieved by any touch of color—stitching and clasp bemng of pear! whiteness—but in the detachable gauntlet {s sounded the top note of novei- ty. Of red felt is one with binding of white kid and brald and buttons of brightest gilt. Another shows blue In- stead of red, another biscuit color, and what you will. Two snap fastenings—the offering of a masculine mind seeking to meet a need for which the hook and eye had proved inadequate—hold glove and gauntlet in place and one may, If de- sired, reverse the latter so that it extends downward over the wrist. This is an awkward adjustment, however, and has the effect of shortening the hand. The accompanying picture faithfully re- produces the graceful lines of the Alex- andria, but for {ts colors your imagina- tion must wield the brush. Representing another departure from the standard white pique is the Vandyke, which proves its right to first rank In divers ways. The Inset cuff, in color, broad stitching—mixed white and color, and single pearl clasp of very large size— are golemn notices all that the Vandyke has arrived. The range of colors used in trimming this glove is very wide, com- prising the varlous shades of brown, red and blue, as well as black. Should you prefer a glove with cuff in straight around effect instead of “Van- dyke,” that too is provided and in all colors. Being lined with mateh silk it may be turned forward over the wrist—a reminiscence of the dead-and-gore custom of wearing the gloves - unclasped and loose. Two pearl snaps insure & snug fit, Bowever, 4nd the effact is attractive, where the other was most unlovely. Not so long ago it would have seemed strange indeed to include a sixteen or twenty button glove among strest models, yet that is precisely where the black glace of indicated length belongs, for not until the advent of the elbow slesve in cloth gowns did it become a necessity to the well-dressed woman, In match colors this style has found somse favor, notably in gray, brown and plum, but for general utllity black has easily led, It will continue in vogue until Easter—that ig assured. but further the prophet saith not. A change in sleeves may sound its deathknell, for as an even- ng glove it is, of course, impossible. Driving gloves in buckskin and ecolt, with buckskin the favorite, are fringed along the gauntlet, trimmed with buttons of cut steel and gay with stitching in contrasting colors. But {n spite of their ornamentation, they are bullt for service first, last and always_ and “will wear forever and a day,” as I am convincingly assured. For the one who must drive through the hills where genuine winter reigns and the winds blow long and cold, none but a . fur gauntleted glove will do, and per- haps one of the best is a genuine seal with palm of Russian cape and lning of lamb’s wool. It is practical throughout and of good appearance. Similar ideas er or squirrel also 3 come and gone befare us, I've caught gmm one gtranger than its fellows; led brown and white it is, of undressed calf- skin, halr and all preserved. I canmot . Slovers- Mabel Ssexo uacrey [y imagine what its be, at first, bup whez the upper put aside & new aule g 2 T wonder me of ¢ man who t the whee projectile wa fad soon te occrudled i proofs that tims, for t ! chandise but fee models especl and thalr nee The colt skin gl is widely differ: raodel that has and that is Most motoring flaring cuff w in the lates est of these—the st akin driving gl buyers tc whom f eager for new accoute a certain vogue i3 assured this giove, and if it prove #s practical as mises its makers will have reason to rejolce. After removal of all boxes filled with gloves identified In one way or anothas with the strenuous lf the dellcate suedes appear loveller it that be possible, by wa ‘They differ Iittle from similar styles of other years except that more and mo: providing exact matches for all the evening shades. So many blues, so nearly altke and yet each pos sessing a distinctive tone; s greens, from reseda to the dark the plum, Ilac, brick, terra fabrio that has not For the most p: relieved by color. San kindly to suedes, notwithstan t the ultra- fashionable set of New Yors accepted that mode with enthusiasm, and very few such gloves are now to be found in our stores. Have you ever practiced the fble economy having new gloves at- tached to nsofled sleeves of these shoulder lengths? When palm and finger tips show too plainly the signs of wear, your dealer can perform an expert bit of amputation, afd after new gloves of four-button wrist are skilifully attached you may congratu- late yourself on havi ed at least £ 50 be you estimats e Joilar saved a dollar earned. But if the suedes are conservative in their attitude toward the use of eolor combinations that welcomes the new touch and ex- emplifies in itself all the possibilities of loveliness. This is the Shir As pho- tographed for you it is in white pique light blue em- strips of are always ery sens- broldered In narrow but v old the shirring in place—hence ths name—and as all the evening shades are represented the Shirrene is sure to be welcomed by all women who ap fate the excep- tional In a four-button glove a like design is offered, of course, without the mousque- talre effect. So distinctive s this pat- tern with its dainty embroldered wrist band, hardly more than an inch in width, and single clasp of pearl, that though It has been shown only a few days it has already won many purchasers. Was ever a sea more rich in novel- tles? And mind you these noveltles are by no means intended to supplant the glove friends on which you have learned to rely. They are merely .supplementary thereto, creating by the gentle persuasion of their loveliness a w which only they can satisfy. They you please, but another evidence of try devoted to women’s dress; they are their own excuse for being. As to their care, your dealer will re- Heve you of all responsibility and maks it as unnecessary for you to attempt to re- pair any of the tiny-rips that may ap- pear as to become an experimenter in the difficult business of cleaning. If you have been taught that attending to these details is part of your reasonable servige, then vou will welcome the fol- lowing suggestions from “one who knows how." “Most women,” begins Manager Lough- rey of the Gamosi stors, “are inclined to put on a glove with the same rapid tran- sit movements as serve in fAtting shoes. That leads to disaster oftener than not, and very promptly the dealer, patient though sorelytried, is asked in a more or less calm voice what he means by selling gloves that won't wear any better than that. So we always say, In very known tone of entreaty, ‘Don’t hurry in putting on a new pair of gloves for the first time. Make haste slowly, and you insure a bet- ter fit, at the same time protecting the gloves against damage.” *““And another thing. See that the seams of fingers and thumb are In the right place. Don’t be so careless as to let them twine around the fingers when they should be only at the sides. The fitter does all she can in the trying-on, but un~ less you are careful, too, the result may be as bad as if she had not tried at all.”™ e s very much in earnest and makes his points in such a direct, personal way I am forced to wonder whether my own gloves are all but voeal as terrible ex- amples, but I am afrald to drop my eyes to make sure. *“The manner of their taking off is of fmportance, t0o,” he continues, with even severity. “Don’t pull at the fingers to loosen them, but after the buttons or clasps dre loosed, draw the glgves off by turning the wrist downward. Then turn the fingers right side out and@ smooth thém carefully, so when you are ready for the gloves again they will be ready for you. “If any tiny rips are found and you don’t want to trouble to have us repair them, then you should attend to them at onée, using a cotton rather than silk thread. Glovemakers’ needies should be employed, they help to insure a neat plece of work. “Your gloves can be made to give longer and better service if you remove the spots and stains as quickly as they appear. Don’t walt for the gloves to become thoi oughly solled. By use of one or another of the special preparations on the market the dirt can be removed and the day of a general cleaning pdstponed indefinitely. “It is a mistake to bring to the dealer for cleaning by the dry process amy gloves which have already been through the gasoline or benzine bath. “We prefer to take complete care of the glove wants of our patrons—cleaning, re- pairing and all-as we are then able to detect any deterforation in stock, any blemish in the making. “If it has seemed that young gloves do not wear well—do not look their best— consider whether you are careful, in the first piace, to get them of a size that will fit without strain and, in the second place, to smooth them carefully when removed from the hands. A neglect of either of these detalls will place on yoursell the largest measure of responsibility for any glove trials you may experience.”