The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, January 14, 1906, Page 12

THE SAN average them . y netimes ell a woman corsets I pass \der girl . The : Fhen she : acquired the new corset de- s season's styles is gher busted and calls for a smaller . ot mean that the v s P as gone out. Tt has come to stay and the tight lacing - with the princess gown s rs W never be ap- re "he sensible woman who 11-grobmed and inciden- exercises peze re and aciobats are nortoriously small waisted, and take an in m ment in two [O e % w* ORD BEACONSFIELD used to say o the side of the re is something man who is not & womanhood. When and libel & woman had a mother, and o ave a daughter. This 1d not be trusted in any serious effair of life, for his moral vision has been perverted and is quite unreliable. He is color-blind in his soul and cannot see the white of the lfly nor the redness of the rose. What strikes & sound man s homage Is the high qualities blend together and come to per- e character of a g0od wom- ctive purity, her habitual her capacity for sacrifice, red devotion to those whom loves and the rapidity and certainty her moral insight. Within the range virtue she is almost at every point - he was o th I, me can sit down at he hy to mar ot example to men and their despair. If a woman were quite faultiess then &he would be too good for this world, for even gold cannot be wrought and used unless it be mixed with alloy. Perhaps we ought not, therefore, to be gquite disappointed that a woman has the de- fects of her qualities end that there sre flaws in the marble of the Parthe- - by practl bend doing t with 1g exercises which make her And while she is her corset d have it properly fitted e walst is, she should select n The very stout woman should select a corset with a straight front and side bones that run decidedly on the bias, es in the back should curve out- ward over hips, and the bust line ot be too high, just moderate. hier corset every it off, and use two one from the lowest holes to t line, and another set from the top of the corset to the waist line. In djusting her corset she loosens it so n run her hand between and body at the waist line, then hook from the bottom and » or three hroks. w. ‘tak- nd running the hand e corset and the body. she 1ifts up the roll of flesh which has formed there (simply because she has not exercised at thewwaist line and the muscies are flabby) and brings it up to e diaphragm. Then, holding her breath, she fastens the remainder of the hot N she fastens the garters to the kings and finally comes the lacing, the lower set of laces tight enough to keep the roll of flesh in position and the upper part of the corset left rather loose. Tight lacing at the waist line is not dangerous so long as the woman can breathe com- fortably, but only when the corset presses on the liver and the kidneys The particular woman ties her laces in the back, or better still, has some one tie them for her. hook for holding the laces nt is feared when the in gowns is to be model plain wi princ 'n The stout woman who ¢ do so is wearing this vear the boned dress, without corsets This is a Paristan fancy and fs literally “every gown its own corset,” the lining being - non. Her failings are not many: but there are two which catch the eve of the world, and sometimes try her friends. They are closely allied, but they are not quite the same and the first is an im- perfect sense of justice. The Loyalty of Love. Most people feel that women have not the same idea of justice as men, but of course when cne makes this statement he is ready in the same breath to offer qualifications. He is speaking of ‘women as a class, or let us say the average woman. He acknowledges freely that there are women endowed with minds as impartial ‘and capable of dealings as fair as any man, but he suggests that they are the exception. It has aiso to be frankly admitted that a defect in the sense of justice with women springs from one of their finest qualitiés. The reason it is more difficult for her to be perfectly just in all circumstances, and to every persop, is partly. her emotional nature, but largely ‘her personal devotion. A woman's loyalty is not so much to prin- ciples as to people, and on the person she she lavishes a wealth of affection. Since you cannot have the light without the shadow it follows that the person she @islikes inherits the wealth of detesta- tion. If she be dowered with the love of BY IAN McLAREN boned as skillfuily as is any corset, with lacings in either the back or the front hidden by trimmings or folds of material. The thin girl may wear a girdle which does not obtrude offensively at any point of her figure, and which is finished at the top with a bust support of nainsook with many frills. | Shapeliness will be further secured by the use of a small bustle made from taffeta, or crinoline. This is at- tached to a band which clasps in the front and, the bustle k& gauged according to a woman's lack of flesh on hips or back. The thin girl should never wear either a high-busted or a long-hipped corset. The absoluteiy shapeless girl, described by corsetieres as the slab-shaped woman, must buy a corset’ which has been fitted to a good figure and then properly padded out. This is done by means of many sachets, soft, plump ones for filling out the hollows under .the arms, a heart- shaped sachet for the front if she is flat cheste@ and large loops of ribbon radiat- ing from a thick sachet in the center if she lacks bust. These sachet-pads match the corset in color and may be made of sllk or nalnsook. They are fastened on with tiny gold or enameled safety pins. The thin girl should never emulate her stout sister in the matter of drawing up the abdomen when adjusting her cor- sets. She has no flesh to dispose of and is lifting organs which are easily injured by such injudicious treatment, ‘When buying high-priced corsets, in- sist upon being fitted by an expert. When buying cheaper corset, go armed with measures which you or your dressmaker have taken carefully. The steel in the front must net be too high, nefther must the measurement from the walst line to the top of the corset on the side be too long, or the boning will break just at the waist line. Buy batiste corsets If you are slender, coutil if you are stout. It is true economy to have two corsets, one for day and one for evening use, with clothee fitted accordingly. This rests the body and prolongs the life of corsets. For ordirarlly careful women, two g0od cor- . ¥ WHERE A WOMAN FAILS 00006 ———0 Lad o b ad 4 love she is apt also to be cursed with the the charge against him without any hate of hate. With & woman everything evidence because she dislikes him. Many is more or less personal: God has made a husband has had to say with consid- her so for good end You dare not, erable shame to some neighbor, “You are therefore, criticize her church; you can quite right, my dear fellow, and I frank- only point out a fault in her child at your Jy agree with you; there’s no use, how- deadly peril. Every cne is beneath the ever, gpeaking to my wife, and I cannot shield of her love, every one is fauitless do what you justly desire.” When a that belongs to her. We honor her for woman’s personal affections or prejudices this chivalrous loyalty, we recognize In grg excited, the wisest of women are as its wealth of passion her power In Iife, upreasonable as the most foolish. and the but can you expect to have both parti: most cultured of women as unmanage- ship and justice? able as the most undisciplined. There A man is colder and calmer: he is able {3 g tigress element in every woman of to stand aside and estimate people, he rich nature, and he would be a bold man is open to arguments and conviction. If that would cross such a woman when you have a difference with any family, she is defending, or thinks she is de- you had better deal with the husband fending, her child. A just woman is than with the wife, not because he is very nearly a synonym for perfection, better but because he is juster. If you for it means that she has risen above have a good case he will admit the force herself and is absolute mistress of her of the evidence, the chances are his wife soul. would only be angrier with you in pro- Tact or Deceit. portion to the strength of your case. A The other defect is a certain want of man wants to know the facts and if he straightness which sometimes tries her /has been mistaken he will reconsider the men folk very much because it is to matter. The woman is only concerned them so unexpected, and suggests the about you, and if she dislikes you, then idea of an angel picking pockets, They the worse for your facts. A man may are half amazed and half but detest another, but he will give him a sometimes they are seri eencerned fair hearing and acquit him of some par- and yet they do not like to say & word. ticular charge, but a woman will believe Recently a very bright and experienced s2ts alternated day and night will last a yvear. Now that empire styles are in, the empire corset is the best evening garment, and all underwear worn with it should be hung from the shoulders. This is partic- ularly advisable for women who work elthier at home or in offices all day long. Do not pin either your underwear or your ehirt waist to your corset if you expect the latter to wear well. When soiled, re- move front steels and scrub with a stout . woman of the world sald to the writer, “M§ chief complaint of my sex is that they have no honor, and the thing I admire most in men is their sense of honor.” This statement has to be taken with reservation, but the speaker knew that in the main she was right in what she said, that on certain occasions a woman is apt to be less straightfor- ward and upright and reliable than a man. For instance, a man will shrink from any enthusiasm of affection when writing to his oldest friend, and is afraid to say more than he means. As a matter of fact he says a great deal less than he means, and he would de- spise himself for any tendency to gush. But that man’'s wife will write letters, unctuous with sdjectives of affection to & woman whom she detests and will sign herself, “With much love, yours very - affectionately.” When a man doesn’t like another he gives him a cold nod and keeps clear of him; his wife may hate the sight of another woman, yet she will kiss her when she comes into the room, on both cheeks if it oc- curs to her, and call her “my dear.” She will complain that she has made so shert o call, and speak as if she would be miserable till the woman returned, and then when the visitor has left she will give a sigh of relief and describe her in the evening as a malicious cat. Her worthy husband, who never con- cealed his feelings and has perhaps too Iittle tact, is astonished at this mastery in the art of deceit. He is conscious of nan prusn, using soft water and plenty of soap. : Women who perspire freely will find rust-proof corséts useful, and extra large corset shields are also on the market. Have your garters tightly drawn it you expect your corsets to set well, and be careful ahout attaching the garters to the corset’s edge. It is absolutely essential that a stout woman shoula have both front and side garters and these should be fitted carefully to the corset, which, othewise, will be drawn to one side or the other, Another prolific cause of crooked, ill- fitting corsets is the broken lace which & woman knots hastily and then forgets to renew.. Always keep an extra palr of laces on hand, or you will fare forth some day with your corset laced on the bias snd your dress drawn In consequence. many faults in himself, and he admires many virtues in his wife, but this dis- simulation he considers one of the pe- culiarities of human nature which he cannot reconcile with the rest of his wife's character, but which has been somehow included in a woman's outfit. Can a woman not reduce her adjectives, and her signature; would a, letter not be courteous from a woman Iif it were cold? The Resource of the Weak. Is it not the case that every second woman is tempted to cheat at a game if she can get the chance, whether it Dbe croquet, or whether it be cards? She has very little conscience about the matter, and men have got to have very little conscience about her doing it. They will shru@® their shoulders and accept it as a woman's way. If a man had done such a thing he would be cast out of his club and out of soclety without mercy. It is only a rascal among men who will cheat at a game, The woman whe does her own house- work should guard her figure with jealous care. There is no reason why she should leave off her corsets until she has set ?'Ag‘r house im crder. Fre: do all their housework with corsets snugly ad- justed at the waist line. d they retain their figures mueh better than women of Ameriea. ecial corset worker and Is made by a ¥ setieres. ts foundatien is of coutil, and it has bands o stitched linen or embroid the regulation corset lines. arm and over the hip it is she tended to keep the waist line trim wit out interfering with the movements the arms, legs and torso. It wo! r the house- pber of ¢ comes of costs about $2 and is worth double the price to the woman who is really ambitious to retain her trim figure. and many rascals, dishonorab! where else, are honorable here. woman can get the better of a rallway company by passing a child of 13 as under 12, or traveling in a higher class without paying the excess, she will be quite happy, and if she can get a quan~ tity of eau de cologne through the customs without paying she will boast of it for weeks; but men do not like these little rogueries and do not think they are worth a man’s doing. One could never quite be sure about & re- turn which a woman had filled up and which affected her interests. What the income tax people do with women passes a man's comprehension, but one feels that if the business of the coun- try passed into the hands of women, Ira and their little weaknesses remalned, the staff of Income tax surveyors would have to be doubled. When & woman wants to circumvent some per- son she may be a model of all the vir- tues, and her husband may not be quite free from some of the vices, but she will give him advice which will make his hair stand on end, and which he can hardly make her understand is perfectly out of the question. Secrets. When it comes to s let 1t by granted that if the right woman bJJF found she will keep a secret as well ds any man. There a~e women who in this matter are like the depths of sea and anything committed to t will never be revealed. As a rule, ever, to tell a secret to a have it published abroad. she will start out to tel pure mallce or to gratify gossip; she will simply not be able to ets the rem how- woman is t It Keep it, and will not feel that has done anything grossiy dishonorable when she has not ke it. What tr ble men Bhave got into, and what sc dals have convulsed soc and what great undertakings have en ruined, and what terrible tragedies have hap- pened In history through wc being able and net feeling tion to hold thelr tongues have been broken up and men have been ruined, good men also have been sent to shame and to the scaffold be- cause women have been careless in this point of honor. Is it not pathetic that & woman whko for some reason has to confide in a man will beseech him that he should not tell his wife. She will trust the man whom she only knows in his professional capacity, but she will not trust his wife, whom she may know as & friend. From the days of Rebecca unto this present clever and delightful women, fond wives and good moth have played thelr little tricks and haY not been ashamed. The Open Air Cure. There are two reasons for this start- ling defect in womanly character, and one of them is natural. Women are the weaker sex, and In the arrangements of creation the weaker animal has always beld its own against the stronger by trickery. A llon practices no deceit be- cause it does not require any, but a fox is skilled in every maneuver, and when you come down to the insects they copy the color of the leaf on which they He that they may escape their enemies. The smaller animals are full of hypocrisy. When society was barbarian, then the woman had to practice many arts to hold her own agalnst the violence of men, and so while a man is apt to strike his enemy in the face a woman circumvents hers by guile. As the evolution of life proceeds and the arrangements of so- clety become more perfect, then the wo- man in her weakness will be safer than & man in his strength, and she will out- grow her ancien: and excusable method of defense. Another reason is more arti- ficial, and it touches on a woman's edu- cation. A boy is sent to a public school and there he is straightened, even though he be as crooked as a corkscrew. He learns by a severe discipline that he must play fair and may not teil lies, and they make him a good sportsman, The girl is trained in another 4tmosphere, where games are not so much played, where the tongue takes the place of the fist or the weapon, where there are mort envles, jealousies, more plotting and n- triguing. By and by girls may receive very much the same education as boys. and already the open air girl has given up tricks. She Is as downright and ho est, she plays as straight and fair as a man. She Is a good sportswoman anl might De trusted to serve on a jury. b b %Foflune Will Not § Buy This Orchid ,; @Mmm%@ The Cypripedium Fatrrican; orchid which, like .mm::n recon~ structed from a bome by Bret Harte's eccentric paleontologist, ts “extremely nrlel," says the London Graphic. Its earliest appearance in thi matter of some unceruin:yfolmfi l1.8?7 it was comparatively wel] known and was named after the first grower to flower it, Mr. Fairrle of Liverpool. Al- though one tiny scrap of the orchid is still known to exist in England, as we! as. four equally small pleces in Jardin du Luxembourg, as floweri plants all specimens of this orchid have disappeared, alike in the collcc- tions of Europe and in the, Botanic Gardens of Caleutta, where once al: they flowered. It has been report:y that the orchids originally came trom is an Assam, but Messrs. Bu gro ot l, the orchid