The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, January 7, 1906, Page 13

O es Are Being Introduced 22 Is Likely That Dame E; Will Set the Pace for 3 some New Shoos, Brilliakt or Schemes and Beanti- 3 cet Sults, as Well jas a is Attractive Small . bod USTA PRESCOTT. at You Must Buy. s get WH black and white conception, may wear to the opera. Per- are very swell, you will dress era afterward all in white, thus ng out of costumes the day Moderate Purses. e woman of wealth who he woman of moderate y prettily. She has for of cream colored peau 1e v glossy, and made flounces of inexpensive lace. own she chooses a fig- silk, which she vefls n, and makes up with h-of-gold. For ss there are beauti- h make up into stun- mes, and for shopping a good tailor made dress n e purpose & mistake to buy a cheap cloth Pay a little more and have some- at will That is the advice dressmakers who are usu- Gowns for t clo wers rench ery economical. “We tell our rons pay the limit for a cloth sald a French modiste dropping the vernacular. “You can't make a ke by paying the price for & cloth is well worth cent you t in the time it will last you.” every for 1 w of 1806 is inclined to take her clot very seriously. wearing cheap dresses any s making a study of her nd is investing in them—as the Japanese Invest—for a lifetime. *“I dm not buying careles: sald a woman, because I begin to®see the value of a robe. You can always make THE BEIDESMRID LICHT ALICE BLUE CHIFFON TEIIINMED WITH ALICE FINK. over. And Rt is & good thing to have as many dresses @s possible. You canmot too many, providing they are good. . on the other hand, is always 25 expensive, because you cannot make it over. It is gone and lost forever after EN CUP ash WILZ WER® A GOWN OF & pingle season of wean® Here are some pointers in dress. Have a few little toques. If you can have half a dozen, so much the better. You will find that they ecome in very handy when you do not know what else ID WAS HIS MAGIC HOUSEREEPER —— * - PLLLY which ! 1 tower of the parents his gpacious the ground. home out of the the woods r that r kept his and it was anting time essing to the kindly his making through his landing on ishing r; also of f dishes and a pork opened their doors the sole survivor old, but he had a about himself the no one ventured to He was too busy through the day and too tired at night to feel lonely. There was a supreme reason why John preferred his solitary life. One night when he came home from the fields he paused on his threshold and stared in amazement at the trans- formation wroeught. His camping out place had become & cozy little home. Everything from the sanded floor to the tinware on the pine table was as spotiessly clean and white as soap and water could make them. At the win- dows were dainty muslin curtains; the able, spread with a snowy white cloth, was set for his supper. A loaf of home- made bread and a flower stamped pat of golden butter sdded their touch of domesticity. In a haze of wonder John mechani- cally filled the kettle, lighted the fire and prepared his evening meal. Then he went into the adjoining room. This, too, had been touched with a magic wand, and arranged in as orderly a fashion as a hospital ward. The win- dows, curtained in muslin, the bed covered with a spread, and a litle silk- lined work basket adorned the table. When he sat down to supper he was - - scarcely conscious of what he ate. In kaleldoscopic procession there passed through his recollection his mother's friends and neighbors, but though the the housecleaning and the bread and butter might suggest the buxom mat- rons of his adquaintance, it was som way borne in upon his slow working brain that the other things were the handiwork of a maiden. Even if the white curtains could be possibly charged up to one of the simple farm wives, there was still that work basket lined in delicate blue to refute the theory. No! The work basket would have convinced any jury, t aid John, that & young woman—one with a dor- mant shade of coquetry—had entered his home that day. The white curtains and the blue lined basket would adjust themselves to but one person, and that one he feared it could not have been. Buried in his memory was the love of one woman, who had said him nay. He roused himself from his specula- tions. “Whoever it is,” he thought grim- ly, “will soon be disclosed. The folks about here are not the kind that THE SAN FRANCISCO S POINT LACE. to wear with your half-worn-out gown. The Styles of January. Have a lace hat in your wardrobe, be- cause it can be worn on so many occa- sions, and have a jetted hat also. With these as a background you are equal to a great deal. Don't be without an all- black hat and and an all-white one, for such hats are very dressy. In the musts there is the jewel ques- tion to be reckoned with. You cannot get along without your jewels and you will need as many of them as you can obtain. They are so very necessary to & correct appearance this season. And they must match your gowns; you must have almost as many jewel sets as you have gowns. The question of shoes is one which should be taken up early by every ‘woman, for upon the shoe so much de- pends; they must match your gown. “Fashions are changing.” said a fash- ifonable modiste, “and pretty soon we will have no more dull gowns. Within the next three months I predict that all the dark and dingy colorsy will have faded off the earth and in their place will come brilliant hues. “This is not wholly due to the advent of spring and the coming of Easter and the spring flowers, but to the changing modes. Dame Fashion is dressing in brighter colors than she was. She was once content to wear the deep hues, for she considered them ladylike and nice. But now she glares out in something bright. “The woman of 1806 will have more gowns. The woman of 1906 will dress in brighter colors. Py Belle Maniates hide their light under a bushel.” He looked dublously at the supper ta- ble. It seemed to him that he was un- der obligations to restore things to the order in which he had found them. Clumsily he washed the dishes and set the room to rights, half angry with himself for doing so. “They'll be leaving me a kitchen apron and dish towel next,” he thought sheepishly. In the vapory veil of smoke that floated upward from his evening pipe he saw a vision of ~ hearth and home pre- :Idloa over by a goddess, young and alr. awoke from his dream. The early dawn, with the sounds of choring, found John sturdy and pract!- cal again; yet as he went up and down through the furrows all the gray, sun- less day, his thoughts eagerly turned to his home-going, and what the evening would bring forth. He felt his heartbeats as he lifted the latch. *The same order prevailed; the cloth laid for supper and In the center of the little round table was a glass filled with flowers, not the sweet- smelling garden flowers nor the stiff L SHTII, CHIFFON, SILVI BERID ANG JCOSE 'you are planning an elegant dinner gown make one in this fashion. It will surely repay you, for it is as elegant as. it can be. The Wonderful New “There are new features for the woman of 106 to copy. She will want all her dresses made with the new sleeves, and these are quits wonderful in their varied designs. They ars of four varieties, and each one has its own claim to style. Each, too, is original. “The most fashionable sleeve is the coat sleeve worn with the little Etons of spring. But it is not a tight-fitting sleeve by any means. Rather it is a loose sleeve, for it is very large and sets out from the arm. Its feature ls its shirring, for it is gathered on the inside and on the outside. It is shirred all the way down. It Is trimmed with a very wide fall of lace around the hand and with & second frill of lace and cloth. “We are making another kind of slesve, which s to be quite the sleeve of 1%6. It {s tight-fitting to the arm and it Is cut off just below the elbow. Here thers is a deep adjustable cuff. You can wear your sleeves short or you can wear them long. Elther way is pretty. “The bridge sleeve is very striking. It is cut off above the elbow and is the sleeve for card parties. There is a little fall of lace, which just veils the elbow. This sleeve is the one for the amateur dressmaker, for it 1s so very easy to make, You can take any old sleeve and cut it off at the elbow, a little above, and put in a lace frill. Then you will have a handsome bridge sleeve. ““We are making a sleeve with the full shoulder puff and a pretty sleeve it is, It eeves. makes the figure wide and stately and that it what we all want. It is by far the smartest sleeve of the year, the sleeve, with the very wide, full shoulder, slightly fl:ddefl to make it set out but not crino- 0d. FHEAV Y FPOVCGEE FUTO CORT. “She will have a hat to match each dress and a cloak to match each hat. and all her small fixings will match her costume, She will be more harmonious than the woman of 1905. “The Savoy gown will be quite the thing. This Is the dress which is worn on Sunday evening to the restaurant din- ner. You can see it if you visit London, for it comes out in full glory at the Sa- voy dinners. You rarely see it in this country, but it is coming in. “The Savoy dinner gown is a Princess. 1t is made of velvet and it i{s immensely tight fitting. There is not a crease or a fold in it anywhere. It is long and its trail floats off into space, for it drags a long way. But even in the middle of the front it is long. It fits the figure though one were molded into it, and, take it all in all, it is a queenly looking gown. It is cut very low in the neck and the sleeves are chopped off at the shoulder. 1t is finished with some very fine lace and it is worn with a great many jewels, If “The fashions of 106 are bringing back some very pretty things. They are bring- ing one back in reality to the fashions of 1860 and of all the styles ever invented nothing ever approached the 1360 for beau- ty and grace. A Wonderful New Browa. “In 1906 there will be a new brown; it is the brown called smoke brown and to say that it is becoming speaks very faint- 1y for its dull, but very attractive beauty. It is cherming with cherry red and it goes well with- all the blues. Smoked brown is to be very popular. “Beautiful shoes will clalm much atten- tion and here one has a wide latitude. Shoes do not cost t deal of money and they add much to one's attractive- ness. A handsome pair of boots will brighten up any gown. The bootmakers say that women of moderate circum- stances own upward of a dogen pairs of boots, while fashionable women count them by the hundred. The idea is to have two pairs of boots with every skirt, SOS000000000000000000000000000 But his plpe went out, and he @ blooms of house plants so popular in country homes, but a handful of flow- ers of the wood. The week went by, each day spent in hard, eager labor, his thoughts and hopes concentrated on the evening hour. Always he found his little home well kept, the table set with some deli- cacy, and everywhere was the Invis- ible, invinclble touch of a woman's hand. He might easily have come home un- expectedly by day or lingered in some concealed place to watch for his magic housekeeper, but his chivalry withheld him from seeking to discover the iden- tity of the one who wished to do her good deeds In secret. Suddenly a bright idea occurred to John. The next morning after break- fast he reset the table for his evening meal, taking pains to make it look as it had each night of the preceding week, even to the flowers, except that two covers were laid and two chairs set at opposite sides of the table. Would she—if it were she—accept the unspoken invitation and all it implied? ‘When he came home in the late aft- ernoon a queer little spasm of paln o tugged at his heart. Supposing it were not she after all! He opened the door. The room was empty and the table set as he had left it, but there were the same traces of housekeeping. Suddenly he looked at the table and started. By the side of the plate he had set for her was a flower —a wood violet. He had given her a bunch of those blossoms once and shy- ly told her they were the color of her eyes. This was her answer! All the room—the poor, plain, empty, little room—seemed filled with the radiance of the message of the violets. ‘When the sun had slipped into a gold and crimson setting, John made his way through the woods and came out into a meadow. He followed the path that led him into a shaded lane, then through an orchard until he came to the little brown farmhduse—all sweet, homely familiar sights to the man who had been shut out from them for two weary years. The door stood open, and he went into a long, low room. In the dusky shadows he discerned a slender young figure. “Jessie!” Her eyes were quickly raised, and In the blue haze 'of wistfulness was anm ex- yes and three pairs. A pretty palr of glazed leather boots had tops of smoke brown cloth buttoned with little gold buttons. “For pleasant days now thers is the patent leather low shoe, worn Wwith cloth tops, that match the skirt of the gown, not only in color, but in material as well. It 1s the thing to take a snipping of your dress skirt to the bootmaker's and have him make you a pair of tops to match. You can get such charming broadcloth tops, just like your broad- cloth skirt; and, if you desire, you can have them ever so slightly trimmed. “They do embroider the gaiter tops & Httle, but it is a very extreme fashiom, and is only pretty with a very beautifully embroldered gown; otherwise it is bad form to do so. It is better not to try to trim the galter tops, but rather to depend upon the elegance of the material and the workmanship. If well selected they will wear for a whole season. “We are teaching our well-dressed wo- men to have gloves and galter tops with every gown, and they are profiting by our teachings. They are matching their gloves to their gowns and also their tops and their umbrellas and their corsage ‘bouquets. “The woman of 1908 will have many lit- tle frills, and one of the prettiest of thess will be the frill for the littles In dress. She will make it a peint to provide the corsage bouquet to match the gown, and the flowers can be made of ribbon, silk or velvet. “There come violets that positively can- not be told from the real. And thers are artificial roses, scented, and tiny bunches of orchids and geranium, which pass for the correct article. It s very good styls to wear these, and the woman who Is dressing well should have thres or four bunches of correctly scented artifictal flowers to fall back upon. The Dainty Woman's Needs. “She must also have some pin curls, for no hat looks well these days without pin curls. They must be small and attached to the hat in the prettiest possible way, namely, in little bunches. They can be placed near the fromt, or right upon the bandeau, where they will fill up awkward gaps in the coiffure. There are some very pretty ways of using these tiny pin curls. This is & style which the milliners have been trying to introduce a very long time. “A woman who turns out many a trous- seau completed a black trousseau gown the other day. It was black broadcloth, very glossy, and made with a plain skirt, with habit back, which is one of the new- est things. It appeared to be moided to the figure, so closely was it made around the hips. Then there was a wide girdls, trimmed with brass buttons and silk, and there was an Bton, cut off rather short front and back. . “Many a gown Is made gay with touches of turquoise blue and with bands of shining black silk brald. These are the prettiest suits you might wish to see, even though the color is plain black. “To dress up a black gown with its tur- quoise trimmings there comes a black silk parasol with turquoise handle; there are bunches of bluish purple violets; there is a hat of blue and black chenills, trimmed with turquoise and scarlet breasts, and there are dozens of pin curls at the side of the hat, making a Fremch coiffure, which is most bewildering. “We are attiring the woman of 1308 in the nattiest way. We are making her look ltke a French woman, and we are getting her up to be pretty. The clothes of other years were rather trying, but this year they are good. Thers is leas that ils exaggerated about them, and woman Is getting back her true figure, which Is certainly & comfort. She has been made shorter than she ought to be and twice too big In the walst. But now she begins to look nice agein. A Word About Team Gowas. “Buttons are used upon tea gowns of the season, but they are covered buttons, the button molds being covered with silk or with velvet. Thus deco- rated, they make very pretty orna- ments. Often they are hand-painted or a bit of embroidery is placed In the middle of the button. By treating the button in this manner you get an orna- ment. It trims the gown and is both decorative and useful. The cord and tassel trimming is very much used these days and is quite the thing to button your little tallor-made coat with a row of frogs.” “Make your negligees of heavy ma= terials,” sald a maker of these gar- ments. “The heavier the stuff the bet- ter, for it is more appropriate to the winter. You cannot #ecure good re- sults in the winter season with soft materials. There must be a suggestion of weight in order to be effective.” House gowns, peignoirs, negligees, tea gowns, slumber robes and rest awhiles are trimmed this year with taffeta cut in circles. Take a bias band of taffeta and cut it in big scallops. Set it mow under your shoulder cape of lace or around your lace flounce, placing It In such a way that it fin- ishes the lace. Use any color, but you will find that cream gives the best ef- fect. Tack down the scallops so that they will not flare too much and you will have something very interesting. Mrs. Roosevelt, who invented the din- ner coat, has invented another gar- ment in the shape of a tea gown coat. This is a little silk affair, something like an Eton, to be slipped on in the house over a tea gown. It is mads a little on the style of the old-fashioned Garibald! and its shape somewhat fa- vors the bolero. It is made of pale pink flannel or pale blue, and it is em- broidered all around the sleeves and the edge with English eyelet work. The sleeves are generally cut nightingale sleeves. They are slit from the shoul- der to the elbow and the slit is laced with ribbon, which is tied In a big bow, sa_as to fall very nearly down to the hands. And this 1s one of the very pretty house sleeves of the year. AN S SRS AN S S SN S NS NI NNV S pre;;::m of appeal. Her lips quivered. “John!" “I found your flower, Jessiel™ ‘There was no answer. “Jessle, did you keep my house for me Just pecause you felt sorry for mel” “N—no!” He came nearer, ““Was it because you care—now! I must know, Jessie.” “I always cared, John. But I didn’t know It, until I heard how fll-kept your house was, and I could not bear that you should be so uncomfortable. I slipped down there every morning through the woods and did the work. Those wers beautiful days—when I was working for you!" “T'll start out house buflding to-mor- row, dear. We'll have a big one up on the hill, 'Will you come to it?” “John!™ After a happy silence she said shyly: ohn, is my place still at your table “It is: it always will be now, Jessie.” “Then, John, need we wait? May I come to you in the dear little house whers I have been so happy? We can watch the building of the new one together.” (Copyright, 1%5, by K. G. Whitshead.)