The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, January 7, 1906, Page 12

ALEXANDEAR FEINGE o BaNE. Dressuy ol ient her face facial defects. cessful a tired the softening glamour over sagging features. ery fore, should study her and styles in hairdressing ce, the popular low coiffure ege of youth, and should be of mature g with droop- for the girlish ound, wholesome face. ed woman look old ke for age, upturn- ss. Incidentally the pe of the neck must exerclse cxquis- ite care in shampooing her hair, other- > on ¥ of Fash- s tic relgn has the Wise her collars and shirtwaist yokes n he all-important Will the slight discoloration ole that it does to-day. With- Wh the need of s < of becom- eets, L w essing, the vor, and it does not injure the la1a g sten anl re is taken to avoid singeing miliiners he always ©F scorching. The woman who has trying princess gowns plenty of time to give to her tollet will be erowned by Je tresses, Bccomplish excellent results in Marcel- end the shary e mow hat 10 by ® bandolin instead of ironms. st the back and thit the Wet the hair with the following lotion front demar which every #nd comb and brush it into the desired is waves carsfy Gum of arabic .1 ounce customs repudiate the wig and demend Good moist 1-2 ounce hair thet is Pure hot water .c...........5-4 pint bined so cleverly Dissolve, and when cold add: defy detection Aleohol ......... fluld ounces Fortunately the well-groomed woman Bichloride of mercury and is -mot obliged ard Sal ammoniac each........6 grains SPOSOE00000 205008 DRSS LTOTO T oT0L00S0000000000 EE R I G . S —— 2 8‘—_—— i e ———————— BPOOOOo oIS IS TS0 00000000000 v 1906, by Joseph B. Bowles) must decide on the department that shall erfe p spend so enlist his time and thought. bie time i ining w At present the Far East presents an in- ing avenue for exploration and discov- ery. During many months the world has been standing aghast while Russia and Japan at a prodigal expense of human slip away, without actual results. The e going lover to ekirt along t re, culling here a life and a lavish outlay of treasure have 1 _ is very insid- Stubbornly fought for dominion. As Kip- ling sings, so have we seen it proved: O East ls East, And never the twain sha very wealth You stand ir- e THll earth and sky stand presently es the infinite intellectual At God's great judgment weat bes < 'ds and ages. You They have met in battle with the hurl- > 0 much that, like the ing shock of mighty seas, and the end is home from a daisy fleld with empty hands, having dropped her flowers by the wayside, you have nothing to show for your longing and your la- bors at the «<nd of the season. 1 assume that my reader desires to read for profit. First, this being the case, he not yet. It behooves those who.-would read the signs of the times clearly and know the world history, that is making day by day in our sight, to read about Russia, and to read about Japan. The long history of each mation, starting from a remote apd shadowy past, can be VENTILATING THE FHAIE. )‘_ The last two should be dissolved In the alecohol before admixture. Lastly add enough water to make the whole measure one pint. Perfume with col- ogne or lavender water. When thoroughly dry run the combd lightly through it and you will have exactly the same effect as that of the irons. There is always one way of parting the hair that is becoming to a woman, and she must experiment until she finds the right place. The woman with the long, thin face should never part her bair in the middle, as, particularly if she has a long nose, the effect is bad. Let her part it on either side, and it she has some slight faclal defect on the right side, part the hair on the left, and vice versa. The narrow-faced woman should fluft out her hair on either 'side and for this reason, the pompadour without the rat remains in favor, and it should be part- ed to suit the features. The severe pompadour is another privilege of youth or the dowager with pure white halr, delicate pink cheeks and the car- riage of a grande dame. For the woman of middle age if the hair is not parted and the forehead is high, the Alexandria fringe or short, softly found on the shelves of any public library and current literature shows & crop of recent volumes giving the modern point of view of each nation, both from within and from without. You cannot put your winter evenings to better use than to spend them by the lamp, in the Sunrise Kingdom, or in"the strange medieval Russia, that is an ana- chronism in Europe In 1805. But if you wish to sall on another tack, trim your course accordingly. Perhaps the England of Queen Elizabeth has loomed before you like an enchanted land. The Elizabethan period s so full ©f contrasts with our own; it is so preg- nant with issues that have since brought forth great triumphs in days; it has #0 vast & gallery of herolo figures that it cannot be exhausted by one student in one season. & Historic perlods are really best studled ROOOGOOEEEGEEIR NOEL0RG0005000% <570 S0 /5: =G T Wi o= e curled bang is worn directly under the pompadour in front. If the ears are large or stick out from the head, dress the.halr well down over the ears in soft, wavy fluffed effects. Cleo de Merode, the noted French beauty, is an example of what hairdressing accomplishes for the homely woman. No one considered her a beauty because her ears were large and stuck far out from her head. An artist who desired to copy her beautiful profile for a picture conceived the idea of hiding the ugly ears entirely by perfectly dressed hair, and directly the ugly duckling became one of the most famous beauties of all Europe. The woman whose head is flat in the back should be most particular to fluff her back halir until it swells out grace- fully, like the pompadour over her fore- head, and then wear a hat with snug, elaborate trimming under the back. This will gracefully hide the fact that her flat head indicates a lack of mater- nal affection and love of home. The girl with the retrousse or “pug” nose must curl her hair and dress it lightly, but not too high on the top of her head. A witty hairdresser de- scribed a girl who drew back her hair tightly and knotted it severely on top of her head as a “person with a small pug on her nose and a large pug on her head.” The girl whose eyes are set close to- gether should part her hair In the middle., The girl with the high fore- head who does not like the Alexandria by groups, who meet in clubs and eir- cles, one set of students taking up one phase and another selecting an opposite, or a harmonious aspect of the wonderful reign and realm. 71ne maiden queen who held the scepter and the center of the stage so long and so brilllantly was the daughter of Henry VIII and the ill-fated Anne Boleyn. What wd she derive from her ancestry? In what did she, a Protest- ant, differ when it came down to the sheer womanly quality of her character, from her sister, the Catholic Mary, whose mother was Katherine of Arragon? Just here you will probably wish to read Shakespeare’s Henry VIIL Froude's pages will set the unseen scene of those thrilling times vividly before you. You will not fall to read the wonderful story of Mary, Queen of Scots, that daughter . of France who ruled rough Scottish no- bles and peasants, who was mere loved SS——a% 72 == NPT =i NN ;’fl;’//i/\g AWN R fringe or bang would wear a wmoft pompadour without a rat, and a Della Fox or small single curl fastened with a hairpin in the middle of her pompa- dour. This is almost essential if her nose is large. Coronet effects are much in vogue and these require a soft braid encircling the hair just back of the pompadour. Such style of hairdressing is a boon to the ‘woman wi.a little hair, as she can save her combings or buy a ready-made and more loathed than any other woman in history, whose long imprisonment and cruel death were tragic beyond words, and whose beauty is as that of Helen of Troy in the world's bellef to this day. You will find history, science, essays and poetry arranging themselves around the personality of Elizabeth. In planning a course of reading, it is usually best to get hold of some strong human interest. This lends a touch of verity to science, and forms a starting point in political .econgmy, and in inven- tlons and discoveries. In reading of a man and his times, note dates and places, and fix them firmly in the memory by writing them dowxn. Blo- graphy is the most illuminating medium in which to read history, The whole story of the Civil War is told 4n the memoirs of the great soldiers who fought so bravely on either side, switch to form the crown of braids. Hair ornaments this season are ex- tremely light and airy. For young women, they come in the form of tiny rose wreaths, gauze wings set off by paillettes, and very fine French flowers in delicate colors sewn on black velvet bows. The gauze flowers are also showered with diamond dew drops and for the dowager there is nothing hand- somer than marabout tips with the same dew drops. So long as the present millinery re- mains in vogue the coiffure must give the effect of luxuriant locks, and If these are lacking & woman must seek help from the professional hairdresser and hairmaker. In the meantime she should look to the cause of her fading or falling locks. The bad condition of the scalp may be traced to various causes—aenemia, indigestion, chronic headaches or wor- Having removed the cause, apply remedial measures. If the head Is scalp-bound, that is the scalp glued to- the skull, have the head massaged. This will also relleve that most com- mon ailment, excess of.ofl In the halr. Do not buy tonics indiscriminately. The tonic that will relleve dryness may not be the one you buy because you like the label. For dry hair try this formula, which can be made up by your own druggist: Glyeerine " ..1 ounce Eau de cologne 1-4 pint Liquid ammonia .1 dram 0Oil of origanum and oil of rosemary, each.... .1-2 dram Tincture of cantharides 1 ounce Briskly agitate for ten minutes, then ada: Camphor julep A and again mix well and stir. S 1-2 pint Add a few drops of essence of musk, or other perfume. For ofly balr use this lotion: Powdered bicarbonate of soda, Powdered borate of soda, each % o= 1 fluld ounce .2 fluld ounces ‘Tincture of cochineal..1-8 fluid ounce R N N N S R N N N N N N N N N S 0 S S S N N S0 S0 0o 00O O DO NSO 0000000000 MARGARET E. SANGSTER’S TALKS TO GIRLS=—= OO D D NI 0O NGO 000000, PN R R R RN RGN R RN NN RN NS00 000 000 OO0 00 00000000000, Grant, Lee, Jackson, Burnside, Meade. Their annals are the annals of the con- fiict. So it s with the great naval com- manders. So, in reading the lives of Lin- coln, Jefferson and Washington you read the brilliant story of our grand republic. Most people enjoy reading about real men and real events and real episodes, as they are Interwoven with stirring and thrilling periods of the past. We cannot understand the present unless we have some familiarity with the past, out of which the present has grown. e I would suggest, however, taking a single author and steeping the mind with his works. Have a Stevenson winter, for example, or a Carlyle winter. For Rob- ert Louls Stevenson, in whom there is so much variety, versatlity and “deep-veined humanity,” a winter is not too much. He is the modern sueccessor of Sir Walter Beott, and the predecessor of the writers of romance who have latterly been prom- inent. The novels of wild adventure and omap v Vv BY KATHERINE ORI ON Distilled water .. Mix and shake until the complete For dandruff, use this Yolk of one egs, One pint of rain, water (hot). One ounce of rosemary spirits. Beat the mixture thoroughly, use it warm, rubbing thoroughly Into the scalp. Rinse In several waters. Do not wash your hair according to the same rule employed by the girl next door who has luxurious tresses. If your hair is very dry, a fortnightly shampoo is suffic It it is ofly the shampoo must be given every ten days or once a week. beautiful bair is glossy. but not greasy. This effect may be heightened by brushing it, but not pounding it, with a soft brush, and the best implement is the rubber brush with metallic bristles, set far apart. The same results may be secured by stroking the hair regularly in & down- ward motion, with the hands which have been molstened with a few drops of brilliantine, made of the following formula: Naturally 4 fluld drams Castor ofl Sweet almond ofl.....3% fluid drams Glycerine ....... .3% fluid drams Jockey club extract....3 fluid drams Alcohol enough to make elght ounc in all Ventilation is as important for the hair as for the lungs. It should be Iifted from the scalp and shaken lightly every night before retiring, then brald- ed lg! and loosely. If ofly and ted, and it is yet time for the egg shampoo, sprinkle the hair with powdered orris root, allow it to remain on for an hour, or more, then brush it out lightly. This is the best of all dry shampoos. For blonde halr, add some powdered saffron to the orris root. Change the style of dressing your hair occastonally to relleve the pressure on the scalp, and, above all things, never do up your hair after the egg shampoo until it is thoroughly dry and smells exquisitely dainty. hair-breadth escapes and desperate dare- devil recklessness, that have partially il- lustrated authentic histery, owe their in- ception to Stevensom, who set the pace. Read “Kidnaped” and “David Balfour first; then read “Prince Otto,” ‘“The Story of Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde,™ ““Treasure Island,” and so on. Read the wondesful stories of travel, and the subs tly flne essays and criticisms, and, last of all, inverting the. order in this case, read Stevenson’s own brave life, as told in his blography. You will find your horizon broadened. your imagination fired. your vocabulary enlarged by an absorbed and devoted study of a single author during a stated period. This, too, is a yery good plan to pursue in family reading, for whick the long evenings give opportunmity. Let one read aloud while the rest listen, and talk over what has been read before the spell of the story has passed away. Chil- dren gain much cuiture by this simple method,