The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, November 12, 1905, Page 7

THE SAN FRANCISCO SUNDAY" PALE POSE CLOTH DOSESOS0S05005500505555%0 Cloth Will Be Worn and All Shades of Violet and Lavender Will Be Seen With Furs of the Fur Will Be % Handsome White the Winte ular and Ermine, Curacal § Rabbit Will Be Used 8 » Furs and as Trim- 3 mings—Novelties of the Sea- X son amd How They Are g;' Worn. 4 % PRESCOTT. AUGUSTA 4 » of the win- e i st of all the of them Many of secret and are out, and a rare sh in violet, the Clarence It is a'violet th tight fitting 1 Over it is worn mpire coat, ¥ short-walsted, very the line with a silk. This Is one ne and it well g the pret- rate trousseau. coat coming al- over a suit of being brought y dress as several very hand- for it is néw con- to dress a one of her love- black silk, very elab- ro cut very over a very high &8 as it can or at all except a re pipings. gowns of the sea- 1 recently for the d for the horse show and e ot shows at Madison £ re G dne elaborate dress was de of mmed with ould be, Eton a with It there was g tilted hats, coming over the face and trimmed masses white ostrich feathers. is lovely, s it can be worn e pale gowns of the year. the greatest study of the sea- y the variety in furs and they are used as trim- s seen in such a There are the tiny lit- arettes which clasp sround the ks re hed with two little And there are the wide lie aro the neck and some finish for the gown. ine Sets of All Kinds. by all odds the favorite, and afford to buy this fur are it. One woman has no ee sets of ermine, One con- -piece set. This is in the tle four-in-hand mnecktie der the chin in necktie nis neck piece is carrfed modified size. This is ping set of ermine. e elaborate set has a nt Geep collar lying around the neck and sping In the front. It is shoulder d is trimmed with a very hand- me deep white silk fringe. Thisis a ery beautiful plece of fur and one hi looks well with all the velvet suits of the season. With this Is car- ried an immense pillow muff, flat and es large a&s the plilow upon which one rests at night. The big pillow muff ETBROIZEFED WITH FOSLES WITH POJSE COLORED TAFPETA COLLAPETTE / ZADIES CLOTH SN FHLE DEHLIA FOR ZUNCHEONS. can be decorated with a few black flowers cut out of fur. Then there is a third ermine set which is also very popular. This is the old-fashioned ermine pelerine, with a collar as deep -as the shoulders, and very wide ends hanging almost to the floor. The ends are finished with talls and the entire piece of fur is lined with white satin. With this there is carried an ermine muff of moderate size trimmed with a big bunch of violets. The hats of the winter are not as freaky as those of summer. ‘The many odd shapes of the past two seasons have been merged Into half a dozen which, while not along the old-fash- joned lines, are far from being freaky. They are charmingly becoming to most faces. The all-black hat is extremely popu- lar again. And the black headgear of moderate size is seen upon every fash- jonable thoroughfare. There are some very pretty black hats, of fancy shape, trimmed with plumes and worn with costumes of different colors. Three very pretty young matrons walked down Fifth avenue the other day dressed in gowns of different shades with big black hats that were trimmed with shining black silk, lus- trous velvet and long black plumes. These young women, who are the lead- ers of smart soclety in London, New- port and New York, were Mrs. Clarence Mackay, the Duchess of Marlborough and Mrs. John Jacob Astor, and thelr gowns were orchid violet and mauve. Dashing Winter Hats, The three hats were quite different in shape. One was a Gainsborough with very tall velvet crown trimmed with drooping plumes; the second was a hat with sloping crown trimmed with a sun- burst of black velvet, while at the side there were many wings. And the third was a black felt hat, tilted forward and trimmed with many black chiffon rosettes in the back. These three hats may be said to act as models for the winter style in hats. The sunburst crowns are very becoming to the head. They are made of silk or cloth and of velvet with velvet in the ma- Jority. And the same sunburst is applied to the pecullar way in which the crown is shirred, all the folds coming out from the middle of the crown, like the rays of the sun. Coral hats gre very pretty and can be worn with almost anything. The popular shade of coral is rather a dull one and the trimming consists of coral velvet and coral colored feathers, which droop at the side. This makes a smart hat for semi- dress wear. ‘While speaking of the black hat and singing its praises one must not be blind to the beautles of the white hat. The white hat is out this season in many dif- ferent shapes, and in a way it is the hat of hats for dress wear. Nearly all the white hats are trimmed with cream color, or they have a little cream color in their make-up. One big, lovely white hat, all trimmed with white plumes and with lovely white chiffon, was finished& with a crown of cream-colored lace shirred and laid In many folds. This hat was a semi- dress hat for reception wear, with an all black velvet gown. There are very effective white hats 4draped with long, cream colored feathers. And there are other white hats trimmed with eream velvet. Many of the hats are built in three or four shades of white itself. e A hat which is called a lingerie shirt- walst hat is made of white lace. The color of this lace Is a dellcate blue white. And around the crown there is a drapery of oyster white chiffon. This in turn is trimmed with e very yel- lowish white loops of violet while very creamy white plumes fall over the side. Ot course, a lovely shirt waist in halt a dozen shades of white lace will be worn with this hat. 2 Little Suggestions in Hats. Not a few of the hats are titited into smartness. And many of them look suspiciously like the hats of last sum- mer, just the same except for the smart tilt. And judging from appearances, many women are making the summer hats do with a change of trimming. They take the big sallor hats of the summer and lift them at the back. Un- CALL. der the back of the brim they set a mass of velvet loops to match the hat. And among the loops there are fur talls and feather tips. This effect s very becoming to the woman who can wear it, though it is rather trying to the average ordinary mortal. : The titited hats are so very difficult that none except the very pretty young girl should try them. Turned up at one side, bent down at the other side, and worn at an angle, they are the most difficult hats one can wear. Exquisite handiwork is being lav- ished upon the gowns of the winter. One lovely reception dress had a little bolero which looked very much like a baby’'s house coat. It was cut very short, had wide sleeves and a little turnover collar marvelously embrold- ered. A line of embroidery extended all the way around the'border of the little bolero; which, by the way, was made of broadcloth, and was in a pale shade of green to match the gown. One of the new wrinkles of winter is the wearing of the ruche. The big fat ruches are seen in the shops, and it looks as though their. vogue had begun and that ruchings would be very popular. The immense Medici ruffle is in and there are beautiful house capes with these immense ruches at the throat. Ruchings great and small will be worn: and thosé who follow the fashions closely gay that they will be even more popular in-the spring than they now are. A pret- ty way to finish the neck of a silk shirt- walst is with & widow's ruching, ‘narrow in width, snow white, and renewed al- most dafly. The heavier ruchings are worn with the low collars that are now the style. Col- lars are cut rather low in the throat and all the way around there is set a heavy ruche which fills n the neck nicely and is very becoming. The thicker the ruche the better, and it 13 no unusual thing to see a double ruffiing, thick &s half your wrist, carrigd out in two or three pale shades of cream set in the neck of a gown and used as a finish to a low necked shirt waist. . A Touch of Pale Gray. . This is & pale gray season and pale gray vells are immensely popular. They are thin as gauze and are finished with & ‘wide band of silk around the edge. That is one style of vell; another is the pale gray chiffon vell, with silk dots embrol- dered all over it, and the third is the gray pattern vell with lace flowers set in and a very elaborate finish around the edge. This vell is expensive, but the oth- ers, which are often quite as effective, can be bought at a very moderate sum. The thinner the veil the better, for it is intended only as a trifle to set off the complexion rather than to shade it. Vells match waists, and this brings ore to the subject of the new shirt waists, and especially the nice ones, the walists that are to be worn for. nice occasions this winter. If you have seen them you could not fall to be struck with their beauty, for they are lovely. No words can fully describe them. “Are the new shirt waists expensive?” abked a woman of another, glancing tim- idly into a fashionable establishment, across whose threshold she scarcely dared step. ‘“‘Expensive!” exclaimed the other woman, with a sigh. “They are costlier than I can tell you. They come far up toward the hundred mark and you can step over it without half trying.” From this it might be inferred that the new walsts are extravagantly elegant, yet such is hardly the case. They cost a great deal of money. But on the other hand, they are well worth the ,price. You get a garment which is dressy and which will wear a long time and will do for many occasions, all for a very moder- ate sum. . An {llustration will best tell the reader how 'the new shirt waists compare in price with those of former years. In the window of a faghionable establish- ment there hung a handsome evening shirt waist or bodice. It was made of black chiffon. It was lined first with silk muslin, then with taffeta, all black and glistening. The shirt waist was cut in blouse shape, and over it there was a little black chiffon shoulderet, all made as a part of the waist. The appearance ‘was nothing Nke an eton. The entire waist was embroidered In forget-me-nots in the natural colors. And around the edge of the eton there was little tracery of jet. ¢ The sleeves were elbow sleeves and they were finished with wide ruffles of chiffon, embroidered in forget-me-nots, while the neck, which was cut high, was finished in tife same manner. All Ranges in Prices. One can buy a shirt walst that is merely useful, or one that is also orna- COLONIA L COIUS Jfo %ng 5?2- O, Wiy TORQUOISE . mental, and one can g0 as high In price as one wishes. Thers is no limit to the cost. Shirt walsts come at all prices, trom the dollar walst, which is good enough for dally wear, to the elaborats waist which forms part of the hundred dollar Paris gown. Lovely new walsts come in checks which match almost any checked skirt, and it 13 & possidle thing to buy s silk checked shirt walst to go with your silk checked skirt or with your skirt of checked cloth, A very charming little check which might be worn by almost any one showed colors in deep blue and black. The check itself was scarcely mors than a pin check, while the material ‘was & mercerized Scottish suiting, very heavy and almost glossy. They mer- cerize these materials now so that they are rainproof. This takes away a little from their brilllancy, but makes them more durable. This suit was made in the box plaited style to be worn with & belt. It was trimmed with strappinge of gray leather, and there were leather buttons upon it Norfolk sults are smart for day wear and for roughing it. It was no less a personage than Mrs. Anthony Drexel who went forth the other day dressed in & Norfolk suit. Thsire was a Norfolk jacket with a wide pleat in front and a narrower one each side of the front. In the back there was a very wide box pleat and around the walst there was a patent leather belt in brown. The whole suit showed & wood brown color, while the trimmings and belt were of bark brown, which is a deeper. shade. The skirt was a box-pleated skirt with the pleats well stitched around the hips, and, as the suiting was very heavy, it is quite probable that the pleats were cut away underneath, so a3 to lighten the skirts a little. With this gown there wers buttoned ~leather shoes, with brown uppers, and to com- plete the whole thers was a ttle brown toque, trimmed with & very nar- row band of sable. One could imagine that at home in the reserve there re- posed a great sable muff and a sable boa, to be brought out with the advent of cold weather. Miss Margaret Anglin is wearing & love- 1y ermine set. The collarette is wide and at the belt line it is brought in and bound under a clasp. The stole ends hang a little below the Deit, all of ermine. With this she carries a granny muff also of ermine, and she wears a black cloth toque trimmed with the same fur. In Parls they go to the theater to learn the new styles and the drgssmakers intro- duce the new modes by means of the stage. A fashionable actress will wear a new style, and thus set it going. But in America it is the women of fashion who lead the styles. They import hand- some gowns or design them themselves, and If you are looking for something handsome in a street dress you cannot do better than study the fashionable thoroughfares on a pleasant day. Your Ome All-White Gown. Of course, you must have one whits gown, for there are times when & white dress is good. The most servicealie gown of this description is a white peau de cygne with a brilllant luster. Have it made with narrow plaits extending all around the hips and have them stitched two fingers deep. Then let the skirt flare evenly all the way around. This skirt, while beautiful, is never too dressy for nice wear. It can be put on for those occasions when one does not know what to wear. A white peau de cygne skirt often saves a dresslier gown and makes a nice appearance at the same time. “Few women provide a sufficlent num- ber of white dresses,” sald a modiste.“The trouble is that whits solls. But it can always be cleaned. And you can buy three or four white dresses for the price of one handsome dark gown. I tell my customers this and try to have them see it In the right light. “What is the most fashionable color of the year? Why, white, of course, for nice wear. No other color compares to it. And women who can afford it are wearing white and white exclusively for evening receptions. White is the color along millionaire row. And it is a color which any woman can afford. If a wom- an of modest tastes is nicely gowned In a well fitting white cloth she Is ready for any smart occasion. She can go into the nicest places and feel perfectly com- fortable as to her appearance. “The smart, neat white cloth gives her the just something which she might oth- erwise have lacked. You can tell a cheap black gown at sight. But a white one, It it fits well, will fool the most acute ob- server. Have one handsome white cloth dress is what I say to every woman who is desirous of looking well. “And there is another thing about a handsome white cloth gown. It will do for those trying occasions when one does not know exactly what to wear. It can be put on for a woman's luncheon; it is quite the thing for a restaurant dinner; it is excellent form for a theater party, and nothing could exceed it as a gown to be worn to a day wedding or to a dressy reception. Its appearance can be varied by changing the girdle and the jewelry. And as a fashionable garment it is at top notch.”