The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, May 7, 1905, Page 10

. THE SAN FRANCISCO SUNDAY CALL‘.“ THE STORY OF : A T -* “The Story of the Fashions,” by Miss Elizabeth Ames, began { last week and will continue in- definitely. This week Miss Ames, who is a well known member of exclusive San Fran- cisco soclety, writes from first hand knowledge on “Coliars, Cufis and Brelts for the Summer GirL.” appro- i belts are priate absolutely on this -day quality, because ¢ drooping under the and ivmbled k same de quite that even white linen. the buckle is « Collars walsts this year collars of lace or becominzg. are made wi embr top. alsts the collar upplied White is al d al- t r.. In fashion to wear stiff llars, which are gen- at each corner, but o fancy buttons or are frequently tur- often worn ' collar It may be nd is a low that is very becoming is not too Jarge. It must e worn with & tie of .some rably with a small, soft, sil nd, with a Stocks have gone out The “summer girl” mannish_girl, cavy walking This year she and white and and ruffles, witn s. In the morning a short linen: or nd softened and or- ty embroidered col- lar, cuffs and belt. In the afterncon she arrays herself in lawn or organdi with the softest neckwezr she can find. She aiso e hat and carries dainty to keep her little white her dress duck dress, tonec namented with pre fr tann In short, the Americah summer is no longer the “Gibson girl,” but 2l girl,” and 1, for one, am of it. It i= such a pleasure t y, dain- ty things of With some of the soft collars it may be necessar) wear an under-collar- An extreme! ce under-collar is one called the “Phyllis,” which is made of moussel de soie and featherbone. It §s very thin, invisible and will hold up that bedra, lieve =g rushed and wilted coliar ought to be borne in s a great dea! to the have her neck look £t collars will not stay up : in the hot weather Turnover collars this year are very much embroidered, and the favorites eem to be those with the “Mont Mel- } broidery. 'This particu em- is very effective, as it is heavy i stands out in relief on the linef. ustration of the big turnover is a photograph of one of the i collars I have seen this sea- The top made of very thin with embroidered flowers and nd the bottom is knife- edged with lace. On a A very good material to making collars is a beautiful thread linen, which takes the round roidery so well that the collar will very handsome. Collars are often ® —— : made of the same material as the waist, in which case it is desirable to have little turnover collars on them. If the waist be white and made of linen a plain white collar, embroidered either in white or color, should be worn with it. In one of the illustrations a turn- over collar and turnback cuffs can be seen. This set is made of fine lawn and the dots are embroidered in pink, which gives a very pretty effect on a white dress. Be very careful to have the turnover collar neatly fastened in the back, and for this purpose white enameled baby pins are very highly recommended. They always look pret- tv. and are the simplest and easiest way to attach the collar and cuffs. Cuffs. Cuffs must be so made as to fit well. ' At PEACE WITH MAN may insult his best friend, his wife's brother or his mother- in-law and escape with a few bruises, but when he insults his’' stomach he is likely to be rele- gated to the mourner’s bench, there to 6o penance for the rest of his natural life. - Conscience is more a matter of di- gestion than of any scheme of moral rectitude. Integrity and honesty depend more upon a satisfied stomech than upon Sunday-school teaching. A man s moral end honest just as long as he bhas everything he wants apd his stom- ach is obedient to his will. The mo- ment dyspepsia racks his moral props, that mpment he falls from grace in one way or another. Sometimes it may be only by making himself and every one else miserable; at others it is more far-reaching in its effect. > You can stretch your conscience un- til it approves of almost anything, no matter how vicious; but you cannot siretch your stomach, and if you try to it will how]l with a wee small voice that would put conscirnce entirely out of business, and there ‘will be some- thing doing. Conscience can whisper and nag for all it is worth, but if Inclination is at the steering wheel, Conscience will never be either heard of or heeded; but let stomach register a howl, and the man who does not cry “quits” will do penance one way or yards and a half long, warranted not saddest kind of a sad-eyed reproach qualified respect. The man so afflicted N to shrink, no matter how great the to the man who has wantonly insulted watches the small boy with a variety The smal oy with an appetite two pressure, is either a joy forever or the his stomach until rebellion forces un- of emotions difficult of description. He ' another. e AY ELIZABETH e ———— e — T g Upper set of collars, cuffs and belt, embroidered on heavy linen and worn with an outing suit of white I'nen, are the latest New York style. Lower set is of white lawn, French dots worked in pink. v They should always pe Sewed In, be- cause if they get out of place and be- come uncertain in their location they give an untidy and shiftless effect. Collars. are to be depended upon to stay when securely pinned, but cuffs are not so reasonable. Even pins will not contrcl their roving disposition. The constant mevement of hands and atms disturbs their fixity and they re- quire constant watching and frequent adjustment if they are not firmly con- trolled by the needle and thread. Cuffs are ma of all kinds of material and in all kinds of shapes. 1 have seen a great many suits this year with pique collars and cuffs, the latter quite broad and plain, turning back off the hand. Certain walking suits that I e seen made of a pepper and salt cut quite short in the skirt, with n and long tailor-made coat and ished with white pique collars and cuffs attached by buttons, are very smart indeed. The advantage of the buttons is that a change can easily be made. Cuffs made with a scalloped edge are attractive and a §00oa example is shown in one of the illustrations. Another ur the illustrations shows a set embroid- ered with fleur-de-lis. This is made of a straight embroidered band, with a narrow Kknife-plaited ruffle at the wrist and a ruffle of the same kind, but broader, at the top. This style is es- pecially recommended because it makes the nd look small, which is, of courseNgonsidered a beauty among wo- men. S What is called the “shaped cuff” is usually made of heavy linen, orna- mented with “Mont Mellick” embroid- ery, very.deep in the center and slop- Ing down until it is quite narrow at the ends. These are very popular and much worn. The real Irish and Cluny lace cuffs are, as may be supposed, either looks upon him as a voracious sort of cannibal or with an admiration strongly tinged with envy. The man who has not enjoyed a good, square meal for years can hardly be expected to love even his wife in the same old way. There is something about this war” of the intérior that sours a man against not only himself, but the world at large, and if he has a small boy with a stevedore appetite around he will look upon the young one’s enjoy- ment of the good things of life as an almost personal affront. * s e The querulous things said to chil- dren by these gastronomic wrecks sa- Xor of all that is calculatetd to stag- nate appetite and to destroy all a child’s pleasures in indulging what & very beantiful and extremely rich look« ing, but they are, of course, so costly as not to be lightly considered. The combination of waice linen and Irish lace is a particula.ly effective one. On dark shirt waist su'ss perfectly plain turnover collars and cuffs should be The effect is more that of & made suit. This style of suit is American. French women would scorn to wear any garb so sim- ple-and so severe. They rarely wear the short skirt, but greatly prefer & iong, fluffy skirt, waich can be held up with the hand, to display the mysteri- ruffies of the lingerie beneath. A French lady told me in Paris that when she first cncountered the Ameri- can women on Fifth zvenue in Now York she came to the conelusion that they were all clad in some kind of unl« form! There is but little more now to say on the subject of cuffs, particularly be- cause the short elbow sleeves are very much worn this year. What may be called the elbow cuff is In reality mot exactly a cuff, but only a finish to the sleeve, which extends only to a point a little below the elbow. It appears to be a broad turn-back cuff which flares out at the top and fits snugly at the bottom. For mourning collars and cuffs must de of white organdie of the best quality, with a half-inch hem all around. showing the black of the dress through the diaphanous ‘material of worn- the cuff. Beits. Belts of all kinds and deseriptions will be worn this year, but it must be borne in mind that a belt is not mgre- ly an accessory, but is really an im- portant feature of a complete costume. The variety of belts is somewhat be- wildering, but a choice must be made with reference not only to the dress, but also to the figure. To go into par- ticulars, which are perhaps already ac- cepted principles, a high girdle should not be placed on a sto gure, because the size of the waist thereby ae- centuated, and it should also be avold- a very thin person, because it ed by a somewhat “lathy” appear- ance. his year the fashion of beits is very high in the back, sloping grace- . nlly down to the front, where the beit y some sort of effective buckle, according to the taste of the wearer. 1 saw an exceedingly pretty one the other dav, which was made of white silk, fan-plaited at the back, the plaits gathered in the center and held by a rosette. The sides were shirred and the ends were brought round to the front, where they were held by a long buckle. A beit of this kind is In- tended to be worn with a white silk waist or suit. White leather beits are still being worn a great deal. They are always consjdered pretty and they are certainly convenient and avallable, be- cause they can be worn with all sorts of gowns. They are shaped this year more_than last and are now quite high tn the back, tapering down in the front to the size of the buckle. For summer wear and for use in the country the really proper thing is the linem belt. which can be very elaborately or very simply made. In the matter of these linen belts they can easily be made at home, whereas they are expensive to buy, a considerable portion of the cost being for the style of them. The directions are simple enough. ¥or a pl.n linen belt, cut a strip of linen about six inches wide and make a narrow hem at the top and bottom of it. At one end of it work three or four small round button-holes and turn the edges neatly into a point. At- tach a pretty buckle at the other end, and the belt is finished. To elaborate this belt it will be easy to insert medal- lions of lace or embroidery in the back and the effect is charming. A very good “straight front” girdle, fastening- ing in the back, can be made of soft liberty satin cut on the bias and eight inebes in width. Attach a piece of bonecasing down the center two nches shorter than the satin and in- sert a whalebone. Then lay the satin in soft folds and tack firmly to the bonecasing. At the back turn the ends in and gather about half an inch from each end, thus making a little head- ing for a finish. Then sew on bome- casing, also two. inches shorter than ihe satin, next to the gathering, and ihsert « whalebone. Sew the hooks and eyes on the honecasing. When hooked together the two gathered ends will meet, making a fine finish and com- pletely concealing the hooks. A great many of the silk belts are edged with leather, but this does not seen to me to be at all attractive, but on the con- trary a very bad combination. It is apparently an effort to find something new, which is mest likely to prove a failure. Now again I lay stress upon the fact that the belt or girdle is in reality an essential part of any costume and must be made or selected with as much care and attention to the dress and to the figure as any other part of the en- semble effect ELIZABETH AMES. set before him. he eats or to discuss the quantity thereof is to prepare,a way for the To e mment on what tortures of later. An empty stomach is the root of evil, a comfortable stomach the seat of happiness, an overloaded one Is what General Sherman called Texas. Look out for your stomach first and consciencé will take care of the rest. Conscience is like a rubber band—you never know How far it will reach un- til you try to circle it well around the matter in hand. But try the same game on the stomach and it will need a good, strong potion to lull it to rest. One can commit the most awful crimes and roll eyes in pious unctu- ousness declaring that the conscience is clear: but let the same one insuit his stomach and no peace will lie within until the stomach be suitably appeased. indigestion that follow