The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, July 31, 1904, Page 14

LAYS THE TO PERFECTION P =) one sinine type known as is gn artless r hold- vill betwaught and of @ rs are =o intent on <h veb r cool, pretty frock ppily in hers parade the seashore rooms and fondly keeping up the pace t 8 41 the fam- enough to possess & she packs herself to it and then pro- very op- en if she has = Porch G st of e way, e to stuy at home the Irying pan into the e,” she says emphat- » avalanche of alluring me from rusticat vherd 1 ar b 01 shments is a philosopher and she gs out-to suit herself. souls 1 appy just ot ac a nted firmly in he 2 ntencs to hold a delightful . oitage porch Not such ou, as gram mother did slory moon, M she pdssesses 1 r instance, a P y » of the h < ¥ alluring, but her to be equal ia just such eme-g eyes her points of broad or rited proportions, Is a It mast im of a retreat so that deration. will frel some- cr first thought > picnted that d couvert the porch her dttention to the fancies purple, and = a pretiy, be- for her, she selects jackmanii with its oms and its rich Virzinia creepers, wis- urampel creepers, old fashioned ing glorizs, sweet honey suckles 'd =ven climbing roses are all prime favorites, but are nol always possible, because of lack of forethougint. Nots- ing could be more attractive than a bower of crimson rambler roses that presents a vivid mass of coloring, but y they will not spring up r even two, and she is forced to nurse a quick growing vine that re- s but a few short weeks to be m glory. cn the green manifests its inten- of climbing up in a hurry she herself with some wire netting, and a haramer and sets to work. end she cuts out a diamond- shaped window and later trains her vines about it, for this is one of her voints of vantage. She is secluded from the public gaze, but at the same time #he co- see out of her leafy bower and be quite ready to receive the waf Jerers who drift in at an unfortunate minute. She does not depend upon & ham- and a charming smile alone. No, not she. That might have been all very well and good at one time, but that time has long since passed and even the memory of it is dim and hazy. Just as soon as the vines are able to take care of themselves she devotes herself to hanging baskets that may be suspended about here and there. And bere her ingenuity comes to the front again, for she uses what comes to her Land and does not expend so much as 2 shining copper. Ginger jars t'ed with raflia make a pretty basket when filled to running over with bright geraniums, with cool looking ivy or with any trail- In an mda irg. in e #hat will add its bit of cc pet scheme. s are not attractive, so she own # Indian blanket or so. gend, substantial rug that . but if she can pick and invariably appropriates a r it. suggests the cool the forest and is a decided on a day when the thermome- s inte~t on climbing as high ble. quiet of without saying that ham- ks are the next move. Two of these, re is plenty of room, otherwise she . borrows or steals a comfortable willow steamer chair and piles it high with soft pillows. And, by the way. her seats are the porch cushions that may be plentifully piled up-in any corner of the veranda ancd picked up and moved to suit one’s con- venier-e. Much of this porch girl's furnishings devends upcn the state of her pocket- book, but if she is handy with a paint b h she can make any old piece of discarded furniture lonk plenty good enough for her house oi rose A small table with a shelf is a valu- able ally, for the newest magazines and books may be within eazy reach of the hammock, and the idler wants nothing better than a cozy couch, an interesting book and—quiet. A chafing dish_and a bra tea kettle, both of which do duty not gnly as ornaments but in preparng dainties th=t insure miladi's popularity, stand on top of the table, so that they are ready at a moment’s notice en the unexpected caller arrives. This philosophical lassie appreciates the value of silence, and when the masculine mind is busy digesting a hort stors ¢ affects the homely do- mestic graces, knowing full well that he is watching her out of the corner of his eye as she brews and prepares 2 cup of tea. She cuts the lemon 1o the tea a la Russ, places a fev. ¢ s in a dainty dish, sees t! it temptingly arranged with the fruit is own leaves as decorations and then its down, folds her hands and calinly awaits the lord of creation’s pleasure. She’'s a bit diplomatic in her own way and thoroughly enjoys playing with her victim. When 1milord is quite ready for his tea, she attends to him in quite a motherly fashion, for when she began to pl&u her campaign it dawned upon her that it wouid not be a bad scheme to give the inipression that she was a good housewife, Apron strings are not such bad things to be tied to when their owner is a good cook. Then again this porch girl knows the charms of music, and when things are geiting stupid she saves the day by accompanying snatches of songs on the guitar or banjo or by twanging out darky melodies until the spirit of the cakewallk permeates the air. The wise lassie does not reserve all her smiles and blandishments for the swaim, that' loiter at this trysting place, for she knows that “daddy” will be certain to seek her in her cool re- treat and that her big brothers will drop in on her and, what is more to the point, bring their chums to have a cup of “Sis’” tea. So, like the sensible girl that she is, she dons her prettiest frock and her most fetching manner and sets out to captivate every one in sight— her own family included. And once within her fairy retreat, which is like the lanai of her Hawaiian sisters, all are lost to her mystic power, and she rules as absolutely as any queen that ever lived. So here’s to the porch girl of 1904. —_— Answers to Correspondents e A. B. C. (An oily noise).—Sulphate of zine, 4 grains; compound tincture of lavender, 16 drops, and distilled water, 2 ounces. Use it as a lotion. In some cases where the skin is excessively ofly it is necessary to remove the oil from the cuticle. Where this is so. it is well to wipe the skin with ®soft rag impregnated with benzine before using the lotion. MRS. M. (Sachet powder).—Many women are quite expert in making sachet powders from the flowers, but others fail most miserably. The secret Z o is in e combination and in using a “binder” which develops and holds *“e flower odors in a bouguet. Remember, rose leaves and petals of other flowers should be thoroughly dried for sachet powders. Take care not to let ‘them gather mold in the process. Here is a delicicus powder: Powdered florentine orris Rose leaves (air dried) Musk _in. powder Lavender flowe! Clvet ..., .8 ounces ounces ounces ounces 10 ounces _Mix well and keep closely corked un- til you wish to use for*the sachets. -Belt buckles of " all SIE (Belts descriptions are being worn and you can gst them for any price, but I sheuld adsise you to send for a leather belt to match your gown. They range from twenty-five cents to a dollar.and a quarter. The cheaper ones really are very good and I think will answer your purpose quite as well as the more ex- pensive cnes. That is, of course, if you can match your gown. Send a sample along so you will not run.the risk of having to return it. COUNTRY GIRL (Embroidery).— Certainly you can send to any shop in the city that carries a line of embroi- deries-and they will send yeu the cen- ter piece stamped as you order it. Be careful not to get flowers, like roses, that require a great deal of shading, for they are difficult to do nicely and require experience. Violets are always pretty and you can work them in white and so get used to the linen and hoops. State the price you want to pay and you will get in return some pretty design. There are frequent sales at the emporiums and at such times you can get a fairly good square for fifty cents. 1 believe the silk comes ten cents for three skeins or seven for twenty-five cents. SADIE (tally cards).—The prettiest idea I have seen lately for tally cards is flowered wallpaper. Buy it by the yard and cut the flowers out and put a piece of baby ribbon through a tiny slit so that it may be fastened to each player. Deep red roses shading to pink are especially fetching. This way of making them is very inexpensive, and as they serve beautifully for place cards at the supper table the same color scheme is prettily and success- fully carried out. ALBERTA (superfluous hair).—I can tell you the name of a patent medi- cine that is harmless but that is very effective in removing hair, put I can- not tell you through the pMfer. Send your full name and address and T will be glad to help you. MRS. J. M. (aromatic bath).—Here is a bath that is most excellent for nervous women: Sage .. .25 grammes Romarin +ee...30 grammes Serpolet .40 grammes Menthol s 15 grammes Lavender flowers .25 grammes Make an infusion in about a quart of boiling water. Let it stand until cold. Strain. Pour the liquid into the bath; tie the leaves together in a bag of cheese cloth, and throw the ba; tke bath also. o BROWN EYES (moth patches).— This may help you, as it is a bleach for moth patches and liver spots:. Kaolin .. -.4 grammes Lanolin .... .10 grammes Glycerin. . Carbonate of magnesia.. Oxide of zinc.. .3 ‘This should be applied to the spots at. night before retiring and should re- main on until the next morning. Re- move by the gid of tepid water and a little pure hygienic soap. Repeat the application as often as necessary. CARING FOR A DELICATE'SKIN (Edna).—A delicate skin, inclined to dryness as well as to wrinkles at an AN, FRANCISCO SUNDAY early age, requires vastly dilterent treatment from an oily n. The care which, would cleanse and beautify the latter would ruin a dry skin. Protec- tion. from: cold, raw or hot dry winds, either of which quickly parch th¢ skin, is essential. The lack of nat- ural oll' must be supplied from time to time to preserve the delicate tissues and’ texture of the skin inclined to be dry.. Wrinkles appear as soon as a starved' condition of the sebaceous glands prevails and it is only by nour- ishing the underlying tissues " v a pure skin food that one can hope .v restore the contour of the face and keep wrin- Kles in ‘abeyance. Steaming is not ad- visable for a dry skin, even occasional- ly, and. hot water should not be used oftener than three or four times a week. Keep the skin clean by using tepid water and a pure soap, preferably castile, ‘being very careful to always rinse the face with cold water, whether or not hot or tepid water has been first employed. Always follow the cold rins- ing with ‘u little cold cream, well rubbed in, to counteract the drying ef- fects of the hot water. Discard the Turkish wash cloth, which is too harsh, and substitute one of old soft linen or white flannel, und pat, rather than rub, the face dry with a soft towel. In brief, such a skin as described must be treat- ed a good deal like a bit of fine porce- lain to preserve its delicate beauty. After the nightly face bath always ap- ply a good skin food and rub in gently until the skin ceases to absorb quickly, being careful to rub across the wrin- kles. Do not hasten the application, as the manipulation is important in assist- ing the skin in the process of absorp- tion as well as exciting rapid circula- tion. Be careful to buy only the best skin food or make it at home after the following forriula: Take two ounces oil of sweet aimonds, one ounce lano- line, one ounce concentrated extract of witch hazel, two ounces cocoanut oil, one ounce strained mutton tallow, sixty drops of simple tincture of benzoin and thirty drops extract of white rose. Beat the oils to a cream, then slowly stir in the benzoin drop by drop, and then the witch hazel and perfume. Pour into small china jars and keep in a cool place and well covered. *HOW TO FIT A SLEEVE (Begin- ner).—The secret of a perfect fitting sleceve depends largely upon how it is set in the armhole. If this part of the work is faulty the sleeve will never set correctly no matter how well it is made. Try on the fitted waist and see if the armhole is large enough. Do not tamper with it unlgss absolutely necessary, for a miss cut here will ruin the waist. 1If it feels too snug cut away one-half inch underneath and graduate upward in front to a mere thread at the shoulder seam; never cut out at the back. Slip the finished sleeve on the arm and pin the inside seam of sleeve about two inches for- ward of the underarm seam of the waist, or as indicated by a mnotch or perforation in the pattern used. Baste the sleeve in-carefully, gathering the fullness in the top of the sleeve and placing center top edge of sleeve, usu- ally indicated by a notch in the pat- tern, to the shoulder seam. Try ‘he waist on and if the sleeve wrinkles yn the upver arm, pulling downward fo- ward the underarm seam, the seam of the sleeve must be raised forward and upward toward the shoulder seam one-halt inch or more, which will smooth out the wrinkles. Should the inside seam of the sleeve set.up over the arm and the top of the sleeve push outward at the back, the seam is placed too high in the armhole and must be _moved nearer the underarm seam of ‘waist, TO ENLARGE THE BUST (A. M. 1.).—When the health is good and the body fairly well developid except the bust, it should be comparatively easy to build up this part of the body. First of all, you must change your method of dressing. Heavily padded waists closely fitted across the bust and the so- called bust forms are ruinous to phys- ical development and in your case are CA doubtless responsible for present con- ditions. The padding has overheated and compressed the muscles so long that their expansion has been retarded. The corset and all undergarments must fit well, but should be loose enough to permit perfect freedom. With summer S0 near it is an easy matter to make the new waists loose and full across the bust in soft frills. bertha effects, ete., which will disguise the lack of form until the figure has improved. Be particular to keep the diet simple and nourishing and exercise freely in the open air. Practice the following move- ments before retiring and again in the morning after five minutes spent in deep breathing: Grasp a light dumb- bell in both hands and slowly raise the hands upward until they come together over the head; then slowly lower to the sides. Next bring the hands to center front of chest and thrust the arms straight out from the shoulder. not too forcibly, and bring them back again. This will strengthen the muscles around the armpits and central part of the chest. To feed the shrunken tissues apply a pure skin food and rub it in well before retiring, using the finger tips only and with gentle pressure. STYLES. FOR STOUT WOMEN (Mrs. Henry M.).—It is difficult to cover this subject in a limited space because of the many things which may be done by the stout woman to keep her dress up to date and yet greatly disguise her increasing bulk. You can be strictly in style and yet not copy literally the fashions of the seasons if you will but adapt the mode to your requirements. Careful changes here and there ‘will eliminate objectionable features or make the more becoming. In short, use only the salient lines as a basis to work on. . Bulk about the hips makes the 1830 skirt and hori- zontal trimmings undesirable, for both will accentuate apparent size. You may, however, have a modifled 1830 skirt with narrow front panel, sides and back gored with very scant full- ness over the hips, plaited or dart fitted into the belt. Many gored SERVING CCCL. DRINE.S, 15 \SPECIALTIES skirts are becoming, the long lines g ing an appearance of heig L numerous seams are very adjusting i ar and hips. stitched down also desirable. To hallmark trim tue ONE of HeEe with a hem and tucks, eacn two inches wide, with space the same width be- tween. This style of trimming is not objectionable, but bands of a contrast- ing color would be, even at the foot of a skirt; all cross lines and especially those about the waist have a broaden- ing effect and the stout figure must be given height by long lines which run unbroken from the shoulder to the waist line. To obviate severity. break the lines with some transparent trim- ming such as lace. Belts or girdles should be very narrow and are most becoming when pointed downward at the back and front and should be in black to match the costume. Avoid sleeves which are too fancy; many lines at different angles increase the apparent size of a large arm. The newest collarless corset jacket or the semi-fitted coat adjusted by center back and under arm seams, only with shawl collar facing and bishop sleeves, are practical for traveling, and the dressy loose costs in long hip length for calling. The eton jacket is scarcely advisable for a stout figure. TO SWEETEN THE BREATH (Ger- trude).—If you suspeet that your breath is tainted lose no time in correcting the evil. Offensive breath pollutes the very air you breathe and becomes a source of misery to those with whom you are brought into close contact. Do not re- sort to highly perfumed lozenges, but discover the source of the trouble and treat it properly. It may come from a disordered stomach, catarrh of the throat and bronchial tubes, nasal pass- ages or from the teeth. The latter cause is easily remedied by regular vis- its to the dentist and by scrupulous care of the teeth, the thorough brush- ing of which should never be néglected, even for a day. Ask your physician to prescribe a remedy for disordered stom- ach if this is the seat of the trouble. The disturbance may not be severe enough at present to occasion real dis- treéss, and yet may create an offensive breath. Should nasal trouble be sus- pected a simple and effective remedy in Sne IS ALWAYS ) COOL. AND DANTY RE several times a day. his tendency toward ca- a cold and also purify restoring a healthy throat atomizer with obtainable at any bottle with pure small quantity of n or listerine—both n the proportions of 1 of listerine rops of peroxide of t of water. ade stronger to rinse the 1 be found ing and TO WEAR GLASSES It is no exaggeration to say people willtully or ignorant- 1y abuse the eves than any other part of the body. S vanity prompts the non-use of glasses until the eyes are so strained that serious consequences follow, the most formidable of which is opacity of the crystalline lens common- ly known as cataract, for which there is no remedy except the knife, or a system of absorption, which merely keeps the foe at a standstill for a time. When there is a dull, heavy pain in the lower back part of the head, with sharp irregular pains extending over the back of the nec- above the ears and also around the eyeballs, with more or less throbbing pain through the temples and forehead, you may be sure the s need rest and glasses. The symptoms mentioned are usually more noticeable after an evening at the theater or similar place, when an effort s made to concentrate the sight on & glven point for a length of time. Omne or all of the symptoms may be present according to the fatigue suffered. Keeping the eyes fixed upon swiftly moving objects is the most conelusive test of Imperfect vision, for it soon gives a person a sense of nausea, as well as a severe headache. Again, through ignorance of the true cause of the trouble, medicine is being constant- ly taken to relieve various disorders which in reality are merely warnings of eye troubles and which will yleld to nothing but the rightful treatment, which is wusually correctly fitted glasses. If glasses are needed consult a skilled oculist and obey his instrus- tions implicitly. Be sensible and wear glasses whenever nature demands as- sistance, regardless of your age. SUGGESTIONS FOR A DEM (Maud).—In fitting up a den all the col- ors should be rich and dark to give the needful repose and stability to the scheme. Pale, flippant decorations must have no place In this apartment. Avoid collecting a meaningless lot of trifling objects the distinctive qualities of which are based upon freakishness of form. Decide upon a style of furnish- ing and then abide by its requirements. The fad for Oriental effects has been semewhat overshadowed of late by the recognition accorded to home art—the beautiful Indian pottery, bead baskets and blankets of the United States. Cov- er the walls of the den with dull forest- green paper or burlap, having the necessary furniture of weathered oak and the dark oiled floor relieved by rugs in rich but subdued colors. Ar- range Indian relics over and on the oak mantel and curtain the doorways and cover the couch with Indian b k- ets. Those made by the Indians of New Mexico are obtainable at reasonable prices in black, red, blue, yellow and green. Pillows of dull red or blue bur- lap embroidered in beads or raffia are particularly harmonious associated ith the blankets, and the stamped de- signs and materials are obtainable at first-class shops dealing in & goods. Pillows of leather with a dian head painted or embroidere: edges finished by a fringe of lea are also artistic. As the room ™ intended for a lounging place, a U liant light is unnecessary, hence I would advise hanging lanterns of wrought iron, with globes of dark ruby or amber glass. A SALAD OF ICED CHERRIES. (Mrs. M. G.)—Why not serve a dainty fruit salad with the game course? Pro- cure one.large can each of white and red California cherries, remove the pits without breaking the, fruit and fill the .cavities with minced walnut meats moistened with mayonnaise or finely chopped sweet peppers. Stand the cher- ries on ice until chilled, arrange nests of finely shredded crisp lettuce edged with small heart leaves on small plates. Fill the nests with assorted cherries and a spoonful of thick, cold mayon- naise dressing. topped with a single red cherry and tiny leaves cut from a green pepper. This salad will be found most toothsome, as well as a decided table attraction.