The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, July 31, 1904, Page 12

How to make the lovely afternoon dress wii’ch can be worn to & restau- rant dinwer, a ladies’ luncheun, a re- ception, or upon a nice calling expe- dition—An up-to-date casino and res- taurant dinner costume is the very latest addition to every woman's wardrobe. By Augusta Prescott. HERE they lay, sid’ by side, to be packed in a tru to be worn all the ¥ there stood the e, gowns, made to ord ight trunk, Ang matched th. gowns. re casino gowns, all of them! be packed The ¢ 1 were tc rountains. te with a to ve worn y are just the as pretty and e 4 very poor run of popularity. The casino gown,” continued this ¥ s one that can be worn in rnoon upon the pier. It is suit- r the board walk on afternoon ns. It can pe worn o garden and to piazZa teas at it makes gown for a drive in one’s Victo- this same gown, if carefully is the thing to wear calling. ith a few additions, it makes a ; acceptable reception® gown. Its is not limited to a single , for it is a gown that lasts over! > be more specific, so that you can how perfectly this can bg you must hear about one of these dr It is a gray canvas of the shade of gray that never goes out of style. It is almost a silver gray and the skirt is very full. It is tucked around the hips and around the foot there are three little tucks. The style is one that will not go out this season. “Now comes the pretty part of the skirt. There is a yoke of Irish crochet lace, heavy and dyed gray, the exact shade of the gown. The yoke is ad- justable and is fastened: around the waist by a beit which is put oneafter the skirt is on. A Gown for All Seasons. “When the wearer so desires, she can leave off this hip yoke of lace, or can substitute one of blackg lace, thus iransforming the gown without de- tracting anything from its style. Or she can do still better. She can apply a deep hip yoke of lace through which she can thread ribbons, this & one of those new hip yokes, all ded with narrow bands of &ack, ensely pretty and stylisti. The waist has a round blouse, shir- red across the yoke with heavy rope shirringe and finished with a yoke of Irish erochet trimmed with long motifs of 9ace. Lage rosettes with turquoise centers were arranged down the front. Don’t forget, when you are planning your casino gown, to miske it adjust- able, that is to make it so it can be tronsformed from one kind of a gown 10 another. Let the trimmings be of the sort that can be removed and other & ma. thry “If T were a woman of fashion,” said this modiste with much emphasis. “I would insist that my gowns be all made on the very pretty semi-dress style, for then one always looks nice, and one .an always be sure of having & gown to wear. This is the secret of nice dressing. Never male anything that looks plain or common, for you mway be sure that you will look plain and common when you are dressed in it. You cannot expect your personality to excuse a gown whose lines are bad. “And another thing,” said the dress- maker, pausing to pick up and spread out a lovely little taffeta dress of blue &nd white check, trimmed with bands of cherry satin. “Don’t forget that ruf- fles are becoming very stylish. If you want to be dressy, make your gown all ruffies. That is the way to be in the very height of style. “And remember that the season is one of detalls and attention to the lit- tie things.” Dame Fashion Never Sleeps. Though it is summer time, Dame Fashion is by no means asleep. She is busy designing her fall wardrobe and getting together gowns that will do for wear in Septemoer and Octo- ber. The backbone of the summer is broken. But fall ‘- near and there mu~ be gowns for the cool days. Os¢ of Dame Fashion’s pretty freaks is the rope shirring. This is by no m2ans a novelty, but the Dame of Fashion is treating it in a noved way. She is setting rope shirring around the hips and is finishing the shirring with the narrowest little frills. These frills are really too narrow to be called ruf- fles. They are, as their name asserts, simply frills. They are no more than a quarter or half an inch wide and they are made of lace or of narrow ribbon. Sometimes the tiny frill is a silk frill on the bias, single or dou- ble. And Dame Fashion has another fan- cy. She sets rope shirring around the skirt half way down, just about at the knee line. And here she places ruffies three inches wide. These ruf- fles are very full and are hemmed upon the bottom edge. Sometimes they are doubled and they* are also edged with lace. This makes a charming trimming for the skirt, if one is not too stout to wear ruffies. But even the stout woman is contracting a taste for them. In these days when so much inter- est centers in the skirt and when the styles in skirts change so rapidly, it is nice to know that one can take the necessary precaution for being in style for at least one season to come. And this can be done by trimming the skirt in ype of two or three ways—ruffles, lace bands or box plaiting. The very latest advices from Paris state that the new fall dresses of cloth and of silk are trimmed around the foot with ruffles that graduate a little toward the back, being slightly wider at the middle of the back breadth. And again one notices that skirts are trimmed with flounces that are straight all the way around. They never grow wider, nor do they narrow. They are the little straight ruffles that were once =0 much worn and which are revived again in all their delicacy and pretti- ness. They are hemmed on the lower edge and frilled on the upper. A Gown for Fall. One lovely casino gown for fall is made of figured silk. The background is black and the figures, which are tiny floral sprays, are in white and In raised lack. Around the bottom of the skirt there are three ruffles of black taffeta. Tl.ese, Instead of being strictly of the ruffled type, are accordion plaited and are set quite a little distance apart. They are immensely effective upon this background of black. And one of their beauties is that they are very simple to make. And, to continue the skirt subject, there can be mentioned a very full skirt, which for actual beauty and gen- eral utility combined could not be beaten. Its material was berege and its color a seal brown. Half a dozen rope shirrings confined the hips. Then the skirt hung very full. And around the foot it was trimmed with three wide bands of point de Flanders lace. The fad for trimming cloth skirts with lace, which started out as a tem- porary one, {s becoming permanent, and the cloth gowns of fall will be lace trimmed and lace ruffled. 3 A woman who goes to restaurant dinners and who has many handsome dinner gowns for such occasions is wearing a gown that is made of that old-fashioned but ever beautiful ma- THE SAN FRANCISCO SUNDAY CALL. Bazcorny * GO QF ZHBROIDERZED SEIN TG SLH s - terfal, cashmere. It is put together as a shirt waist suit in three parts. There is the walst, the skirt and the open- fronted coat. But the novel part of the gown is the skirt, which is very «dll and s trimmed around the foot with three bands of heavy lace. The lace is of the sort that is put together with braid, and is embroidered with fine stitchery in the web. The making of this lace is & pretty summer art. Exquisite are- the collars which are worn for restaurant dinners and for all occaslons not strictly full dress. And not only. exquigite as to handiwork are these, but very becoming to the wearer, The lace collar, the lace stole, the wide lace ruffle, which is laid around the throat, and the deep lace frill, which is thrown arcind the shoulders, are all an important part of the wardrobe. Dame Fashion fs changing her plans, but they are not abrupt changes that will materially alter the layout of the coming gowns. Rather are they changes that bring out the prettiest of the prevailing fashions, while others that were not so pretty are obliterated. The Gowns of a Duchess. The Duchess of Roxburghe wore a pretty gown the other day, its color being black and its trimmings white. It was one of those magple dresses which are so liked abroad. It was a Paris gown, with, plenty of Parislan chle. The skirt was full and round and untrimmed, save by a wide band of handsome lace applique upon the foot, but this trimming, though plain and almost classic in its severity, was all sufficient. The walst was a round walst, some- Wwhat on the shirt waist order, t~immed with three ruffies, which exten.ed all around it and around the upper part of the sleeves also. Around the neck, which was semi-low—cne of those round Dutch necks—there was laid a beautiful collar of white lace embroid- ered with black silk threads, drawn to imitate a beautiful daisy chain. The Duchess of Marlborough wore on the same occasion a lovely little gown of old-fashioned white bebbinet trim- med with lace ruffles, with abundant hand embroidery running around the skirt above the ruffles. The embroidery ‘was very deep and was of the most ex- quisite order. The gown was worn over a petticoat of beautiful lace. In the fashion world there are con- tinually appearing new things er old styles worked up in new ways, and among those there are many that catch the eye at once by their beauty. Lovely lace stoles, for instance are fastened around the neck of little silk bolero coats, with the lace ends hang- ing well down in front and a beautiful silk rosette adorning the neck. Beautiful squares of ecru lace, show- ing a heraldic design, are appliqued upon the right sleeve of the hand- somest cloth gowns. Great swirling patterns in braid are appliqued to the front box plait of the new linen shirt waists. Braided designs in wash silk braid are seen upon the cuffs of linen gowns and upon the cuffs of silk dresses as well, for braid is very fashionable. Shirt waists costing- upward of 360 are to be found at all of the fine es- tablishments. Deep lace cuffs are stiffened with wire and slipped on over the cuffs of silk shirt waists and overcoat cuffs and the cuffs of wash dresses. * Pretty Fads of Dame Fashion. Girdles are made of silk which is gtiffened and cut to a point in the mid- dle of the front. This girdle is hand embroidered and shows the lovellest of green flowers to match the green trimmings of hat and gown. Brown, which has held its own so well all summer, is to be a still more popu.ar shade for winter, and both seal brown and navy blue will lead in fashion's march. The dot, always so fashionable, is coming in, and, where there was one dotted gown beforey there will now be a dozen. The dot, to be fashionable, must look as though done by hand. for it is the embroiderea dot’which makes the gown chic. Black taffeta dresses, with a large hand-embroidered dot wéil raised from the surface, are the neatest gowns that can be found, and what is more in their favor, they are fashionable for all oc- casions. They can be worn for dinners or for luncheons or they can be made up for evening. The most fashionable gown of the season is a black taffeta, with a large black raised silk dot. The collar is made of velvet, as are the cuffs. and ther¢ are pipings of turquoise blue satin to_finish both. Pipings are more than ever the style, and to pipe a gown with blue and white is a pretty sure way to secure perhaps a ye fles, its stock, its c with coral f you want there be a tra And here is a remember, also some em- broidery omlace application upcu your ay.ernoon ~hirt waists. Take your waist of black crepe de chine and purchase for it two yards of white lace In heavy leaf pattern, with small raised white flowers. Set a panel down the front from the neck to the belt. Then place a band of it across the yoke in such a way that the trim ming will extend over the ahoulders and down the sleeves. Let the cuffs and the stock be trimmed in the same manner. For the Very Chic Girl The giil who wants to be very ahie will put in her spare time making wheels of lace and wheels of silk. Let the wheels be about the size of a sil- ver dollar, and in the middle of eachk set a small button. The lace wheels have in the center another little wheal of lice, and for evening it is the thing to place the tiniest button rose in the middle of the lace wheel. Don’t forget the saving grace of & colored medallion of silk. A woman whose ecru voile suit was on the verge of collapse brought it back to 'ife and beauty by applying light biue silk em- piecenients to the bolero jacket. She set six of these on each side of the jack®t, and she placed six around the back, so as to border the edge. Then she ‘added a few to the skirt, outlining a hip yoke. This gown, worn with & blue shirtwalist and a blue hat, was very fetching. This is a halcyon day for the makee of sleeves. Take your old sleeves and cvf off the cuffs. Now fasten In & litgerie cuff, where once the silk cuff was, and you will have a very pretty frill for the hand. Or take the tight, old-fashioned It tle wrist cuff and cut it off. Gathes the sleeve and pull the pucker sting tight so that the sleeve s gathered a little below the elbow. Now make & long tight fitting cuff and set it inte the sleeve. This cuff must bell a Ift- tle over the hand and be finished with a lace frill. There is a new style of neck finish which i{s very much liked. It looks very much like a collar, and, indeed, it 1s such. But, instead of being cut square in sailor fashion, it is cut in two long deep points in front that come down almost to the belt line. These points are edged with Valen- ciennes lace, which goes all the way around the collar. There are long deep points upon the shoulders that come down over the sleeve quite te the elbow. The back is finished in a point. This is charming carried out in plece lace. Handsome Walists of White Lace. Very handsome autumn waists are made of liberty satin and these waists are not necessarily expensive. They may be in a deep shade of oyster white, trimmed with pale white lace, and finished with applications of lace of a deep shade of ecru. It is very fashionable to make lace walsts of half a dozen shades of white lace and to use the lace as one would use flounces of silk, with one flounce falling over the other. Lace, in a shade of lemon white, is appliqued with medallions of lace in blue-white, while the whole is em- broidered in stitches that are in a shade of pearl. This gives several shades of white and makes the waist much smarter than if it were all of a single tone. It is very smart, indeed. to fasten your white girdle small black velvet buttons. Set a double row of these buttons at the side and hook your girdle invisibly underneath. A white satis stock secured same manner, by invisible fastenings, with double rows of black vel tons at each side of the sto Deon’t forget the e touch of black upon all fall gowns. It is ab- solutely necessary for the style of the gown. Tiny black velvet buttons are very becoming Deep black sil th wide white lingerie fr about the smartest things in the cuff line and they give the touch of black and white S0 necessary to any gown, no matter what its color,