The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, March 20, 1904, Page 17

- Pages 17t020 | TI{E SAN FRANCISCO, SUNDAY, MARCH 20, 1904. > Pages 17020 AMERICAN ACADEMY OF ART IN ROME IS NOW FIRMLY ESTABLISHED AND ALREADY RANKS AS AN EQUAL OF THE EUROPEAN INSTITUTIONS il W School Successful at the Start. ttle Litt Is King and Queen Attend Annual Opening. Sovereigns Both Delighted at Display. il arch 18.—News that was about to be an me reated some good deal of 1t appeared t the school the name e e in started by the r conceived and World’s Fair at Chi- the friends, notably M A ho m be styled the founder se, and -vho has given and is now the were joined American nown ng rose the R t °rst compared with s of France prospere: influential, until ce its stands proudly on nstitutions of Euro- and , wid- years s an LOCATIONS WE L. CHOSEN. blished by e famous an drive, quite as magnifi- e German is on terrible memory, Spanish ulum, hy hurch of San Pi 4 as the tro head wec n like corn, but the e gar this historic and Academy has set- nds are twenty f e the surrounding streets and the huge er and a nter, while they o* atmosphere” dear The house was ephew of the Pope of th me, in s when nepo- J ntains man f ove all the r Guid ery close in f a at, as w 1, n a g and requires neck- king so much ats are of S ss refuse the gym- SE 2 ntent themselves with Mk ot & -graph IN FROM KING. RECOGNITIC academy take a three years, more the taste and or work, entirely post- an to produce beir for ists who are nd know the fundamentals that is al- under the guidance ay, the well known whr exhibition of the work of he a was so notable and did su redit to America that Embassa- takes great interest in i the King to assist at Majesty mnot only promptly, but This, of good republi- of the s also present to the home academy yeant much—recognition b head of the state, a high com- piime erica and the American colony here ereby hangs a tale), and the placing the academy on an equ with the other foreign art institu The occasion was also an important one, for the reason that it was the first time that any American - \ | i | g &;m\w‘\f-.\x S SR e | §° BB MR ONE B O S | EE o W B : | RiEE 2 R - institution here of any kind has been opened by the sovereign. The King, it must be confessed, is not an art connoisseur, but the Queen loves and knows good work when she sees it, so that she lingered long by those of the exhibits which touched her fan and which were, in fact, the best. There were sixty paintings, chief among them being the reproduction of the Pinturicchios of the Sala Borgia, by the temporary director, Mr. Mowbray, for the ceiling of the library of the T ub of New York, and a decorative panel of the “Three Fates,” by A. Swartz of Louisville, Ky., holder of the Lazarus pri twenty-four the finest being the fa- inhabited architectural drawings a production of the ceili mous Massimo palace, by the American Princess Brancaccio g of now (nee Field), by J. W. Hoover; and six pieces of scuipture, the greater pa from the hand of Charles Keck of York, who holds the Rinehart prize of Baltimore. The King paused long be- fore the circular relief of ‘Achilles Mourning Patroneus,” admiring partic- the figure of the great Greek AMERICANS AGGRIEVED. The mentioned above, ways prefaced with an “I am told, s not yet left the region of “‘on dits,” ut there seems to be no doubt that this visit the King and Queen to the academy has considerable he; burn in the American colony, es- pecial each ularly wa “tale,” is al- and of caused among t ladies, of whom and pect considered that she had a special r claim to be present, while Mrs. Meyer, the Embas- and Mrs. Mowbray, the were ther ith ea of not offending an Thus the traveling enraged, as the accepted idea is that all the American officials to their amusement and comfort, and that they should tiveir American insti- affront. ea ¥ only r's wife, of the director, the avowed one by pick and choosing. hurt, but American is positively residents feel the are here cater to not introduce them to Majesties when at tute is an wuni nable As there are perhaps 5000 Americans passing through the city, and as no lady can be asked to meet the Queen who has not been presented, such claims have to be ignored. The academy is now, for the moment, without a director, as Mr. Mowbray has oW just left for America, and a new one has not yet been appointed. The de- parture of Mr.-Mowbray has caused much regret in the colony, as both nd his wife were immensély popular ing possible, not only , but for strangers who upon them, putting themselves considerable trouble that their iots might see the famous Aurora.” B S o S N MONORAIL FOR RAPID TRANSIT IS PROPOSED Inventor Berhi of London Proposes Two Systems for England’s Metropolis. LONDON, March 19.—Leondon for the = called comp: is offered monorails as a solution of the traffic problem. Two schemes, each costing over $10,000,000, have been prepared by F. B. Berhe, inventor of the monorail system, which it is pro- posed to construct between Manches- ter, Liverpool and London. The schemes were laid before the trafic commission this week. The first consists of a twelve-mile overhead line, costing 00,000 per mile, from the Royal Oak to the Albert and Vic- toria docks, via Camden town, with branch lines to Willesden, Stepney and Limehouse. The second scheme is for a similar line, costing $125,000 a mile, from the houses ~ of Parliament to Putney bridge, along the Chelsea embank- ment. The widening of London bridge, the $500,000 contract for which was be- gun two years ago, is about completed. The improved bridge is eleven and one-half feet wider than the old one. Eight people will be able to walk abreast on the path and the roadway will accommodate four lines of traffic. ——————— King Sits For Portrait. LONDON, March 19%.—Edwin A. Abbey is hard at work on his painting of the coronation. The King gave him several sitlings this week. DECLARES THAT LOVE OF WAR IS DISEASE Marcel Prevost Points Out Causes That Lead to Strife Be- tween Nations. PARIS, March 19.—"For the elimi- nation of savagery, bloodthirstiness and ferocity from the human race, find a serum as for any other disease.” That is the conclusion to which Marcel Prevost comes in discussing uses of the war in the Far East. He argues that the diplomats on both sides would have averted hostilities, but that the working classes in Japan, aged because the price of rice has doubled, sought an outlet for their fur: “Useless,” he holds, “are courts of arbitration and shepherds inclined to- ward peace, if their flocks are as ravening wolves.. The commony man must have respect: for life and feel aversion to suffering before wars cease.” M. Provost cites as instances cases of wanton torture of children by par- ents and brutality on vessels of the codfishing fieet. The masters of these vess at home in Brittany o all appearances are respectable and humane. ————— SCIENTIST NOW DECLARES THAT THE SUN MOVES French Astronomer Argues That the Is Not a Fixed Body. Luminary PAR March 19.—Three learned men of F e now range themselves on the side of “Brother” Jasper, the negro preacher who died in Rich- mond, V still declaring “The sun do move, When Pasquier and Flamache, two Belgian scientists; re- cently erted that there never had been absolute proof of Galileo's say- ing, “The earth moves,” the laughter in France was as the laughter in America at Rev. Mr. Jasper. Now no less a person: than M. Po ire, president of the Astronomi- cal Society of France, takes sides with the Belgian deniers of astronomical orthodoxy. The matter now takes on jous aspect. Solemn dis- grave subjects have taken to see whether accepted no- the motion of the earth are a more this up tions on visionary. Fiammarion, the astronomer, has written a rejoinder to. Poincare, mar- shaling his proofs that the Galilean theory is right and that “Brother” Jasper was delude Viscount Hayashi Is Taken From Con- demned Cell and Made Imperial Interpreter. LONDON, March 19.—Viscount Hayashi, the Japanese Minister to Great Britain, spent several years at the University of London and returned to his own country in time to take part in the rebellion of the reaction- sts, between 1865 and 1§6S. The revolt was put down and the revolutionists, Hayashi and the rest were turned over to the “lord high executioner,” who put them in iron cages until he got ready to cut their heads off. About that time the Mikado hap- pened to be in great meed of a man who could interpret English for him and somebody thought of Hayashi. The condemned rebel was taken from his cage and performed the task so well that the Mikado pardoned him and made him imperial interpreter. At that time there were only five or six Japanese who could speak English. —— Chemists’ Errors Fatal. PARIS, March 19.—An editorial has drawn attention to French chemists mistaking English and American pre- seriptions and substituting grams for grains with -rrible results in cases where -belladonna, strychnine, etc., are used. M letters here appeared in the newspapers as a result of the cor- respondence that it is dangerous to submit rescriptions to other than chemists with English or American diplomas, speaking English fluently. Correspondents cite many disastrous cases. NEW THEATER HAT 15 £ n NOVATION Fashion As Prescribed in Paris Says That It Will Be a Close- Fitting Bonnet. PARIS, March 15.—Whether owing to ‘a press campaign or a desire for novel- ty, quite a revoiution has taken place in theater hats, many smart women wearing a small, close fitting bonnet. These are made of jet and have a sim- ple aigrette on one side of the front and a large Alsatian bow of Trille vel- vet, with aigrette. Recent attempt to déthrone the gold chain purses from the position they occupy in a smart woman's outfit seem have failed, for they are seen as much as ever in the Rue de Paix. The latest form, however, is curious. This is a mascot purse, thoroughly Parisian. It is shaped like a little pig and can be carried easily in the hand. It will hold 500 or 600 francs in gold. During the first empire, when Napo- leon’s admirers expected he would com- plete the conquest Europe, the dresses of the ladies of the court often were braided in hussar fashion. It would appear that the hion is about to be revived in a modified form. Gold braid and gilt buttons are seen on all sides and = occasionally epaulettes. Should these come in seriou as a fashion the sloping shouider will dis- of appear and slender waists once more be essenial. A New York dressmaker, now in Paris, in an interview asserts the ne- cessity of copying Parisian models, but says modifications are necessary be! cause Americans want dresses closely fitting. The competition 1s less keen here than in America, Paris houses having different speclalt He.claims the Americans’ are the best dressed women in the world, but admits that the Pearisiennes are more careful in re- gard to corsets than Americans. MEDIUM AWE MBLAGE AT MOSCOW Light Glows Over Portrait and Piano Plays While Influence Is Over Composer, MOSCOW, March 19.—Two Spirit- ualists med Bitroff and Speranska, both mediums, gave a seance here at which were present a number of peo- ple, who say these things happened: oon after a circle was formed the table began to tip and its edges glowed with a strange light. Presently Mr. Bitroff went into a trance, stood up. took Mr. Speranska by the hand, and led him to a por- trait of Chopin, the famous composer of music. Suddenly the same light, something like an electric glow, illu- mined the picture for a moment. Mr. Speranska asked 1 woman pres- ent to place a hand on the piano. She did so. Then he put one of his hands on her head and the other on the portrait, whereupon the light shone out of the portrait. The piano instantly struck up in a very lively fashion a scherzo by Chopin. The woman had nothing to do with the playing, for her hand merely rested on the keyboard. — Rolish Novelist in Trouble. PARIS, March 19.—Charles Joseph Stanislaus Sienkiewicz, a nephew of the distinguished Polish novelist of that surname, after a notable career as a spendthrift has got into the Paris courts through trying to open a large notion store without capital. An aunt living here has made formal applica- tion to have a guardian appointed for the youth. In her petition as proof of his need of a guardian she mentions many instances of his extravagances. WORK OF AS O BEAUTY DOCTORS REAP RICH HARVEST DURING A “SEASON" Society Matrons and Maidens of London Pay Fabulous Prices to the Enemies of Wrinkles and “Crowsfeet.” LONDON, March 19.—Beauty special- ists are flourishing in fashionable Lon- don"at the present moment to an ex- tent little dreamed of by those unac- quainted with the mysterious back re- gions of alleged “millinery” shops and hair dressers’ parlors in Bond street. Fortunes are being made in the busi- ness and $25,000 a year s considered a fairly moderate income for a woman who has established a reputation for keeping a society beauty beautiful. The handsomest women in society are the best clients of the beauty specialist, and as in other matters they only fol- werc of the so celebrated for the influence she exercises, for her phil- anthropies and originalities as well as for her marvelous business abilities, is famous beauty, about to become a mother for the fourth time. Her youngest child is the Hon. Maynard le, aged 6. He is already a society personage, being in great demand as weddi page His uncommon beauty, set off by a p ire esque costume of satin and velvet, makes him an ideal attendant at such functions. CONSUELO A REFORMER, The Duchess of Marlborough ‘ately has commenced to take an active inter- Srosnzs oF B2 DRI AAPELY | 2, /ffij&'{f ' = - - — | VILL.L IN ROME OCCU- | PIED BY THE AMERI- CAN ART ACADEMY. + ENGLAND LAUGHS AT BERLIN’S FASHION IDEAS London Merchants Style Will Not cessful. BERLIN, March 19.—At a recent meeting of the Berlin section of the German Merchants' League, in which the dressmaking and dry goods trades were most strongly represented; the possibility of a distinctive German style was discussed. A committee was appointed which will report its find- ings to the next meeting. An authority upon the drapery trades, whose opinion was yesterday invited, laughed openly at the idea of German fashions. The strength of Germany, he said, lay in the direction of workmanshin and adaptability. In any attempt to invent fashions of her own she would be doomed to failure. France was not only artistic, he said, but its capital was the fashionable metropolis of the world. The result was that the designing of the decora- tive side of the drapery trades lies in French hands: the light goods which are most easily changed by fashion are French in design,, though sometimes they are made in Germany. The only claim which Germany pos- sesses to be considered a fashion-mak- er is summed up as follows: If one of these designs is successful it is copied more cheaply in the East End of London. The German, however, cannot complain, for the original de- sign is not really his. —e—————— NOBODIES RULE THE HOUSE OF % say Teutonic Be Suc- COMMONS England’s Parliament Is No Longer Considered the “Best Club in Europe.” LONDON, March 19.—The British House of Commons no longer is what it used to be. In many respects it has fallen upon evil times. Once it was “the best club in Europe.” Now- adays it is “a collection of nobodies.” There wag a time when oratory was an art cultivated there. At the pres- ent day not even the conversational method of debate is held in honor, and members make long, tedious speeches, which are intended, not so much for the ear of the House of Commons as to meet the eye of the electors of Mudhampton in the columns of their locz! newspaper. All this and much more to the same effect is what one hears in parliamentary London at every turn. Nobedy treats the jere- miads eeriously. low the lead. The perennial youth and beauty of Queen Alexandra is not alto- gether the work of nature. The world knows that she is herself an artist in the domain of “make-up,” but in spite of this fact she has been for years in the hands of the beauty doctor. A lady accomplished in the art constantly travels with her when she is any dis- tance from London and it is understood that she receives for her services $5000 a year. This patronage of her Majesty has had a stimulating effect on the work of the beauty doctors with the result that Bond street and its adjacent busi- ness thoroughfares are now - honey- combed with establishments where youth and beauty are guaranteed to be maintained for an indefinite period at a fixed price. It is considéred that $500 a year is a moderate sum for a soclety beauty to pay in order to have her face, neck and shoulders treated. SOCIETY KILLS BEAUTY. Asked why the beauty doctor should flourish so at present, a specialist said to me, “Society life kills beauty more quickly than the ravages of sickness. The increased number of London fune- tions necessitating late hours, the phy- sical exertions of dancing parties and the sudden change of temperature from a hot room to a foggy London street late at night, cause a young society woman’s beauty to fade before it has had time to reach its natural stage of development and their only alternative is to appeal to the specialist or look pre- maturely old.” Without artificial aid it is said that the society girl who “goes the pace” could not retain her beauty for more than two seasons. For this reason some of the more sensible moth- ers refuse to “present” their daughters until they have reached rather mature years, because immediately a girl is “presented” she is expected to be seen forthwith at all important functions. In the case of older women, wrinkles have to be removed, dimples have to be preserved and the eyebrows have to be kept beautiful by a regular application of oxide of mercury and lard. The pro- cess of fixing false eyelashes is one of the most difficult and delicate of the specialist’s operations. The hair has to be threaded through the eyelid with a fine needle. The job when properly done is worth $150. Most of the spe- cialists at present operating in London are of continental origin, the elite of the profession coming from Paris. ‘What is known as the London season is their harvest and when things slow down the smaller fry do a bit at clair- voyance, assuming a different name and a different establishment. It is not generally kndwn that the wedding of pretty Lady Marjorie Gre- ville was celebrated on a date much earlier than that originally set in order that the bride’s mother, the Countess of ‘Warwick, might be present. This occasionally « est in the work of Englis who like to be de formers. The Workers, the the Duchess now, is not would sugg ported by such Somerset . women as L Countess of Lady Dilke and a number of other well- known society ladies, for the purpose of encouraging a on- ditio under w s of women live and espe them morally and socially. has been working three years ver because its fl particularly he The co-operation Marlborough and a few other Amer changed ali this and t in a position to do good practical work. The Duchess of Marlborough has al- ways helped with her purse, but now both she and Viscountess Deerhurst take a personal interest in all its work —they attend meetings of the commi tee, offer suggestiong and receive mis- sion ladies attached to schools, and they express the delight when they learn that sc fering is alleviated from a life of moral da It is mc ly through the influence of Lady Henry Somerset that the Duchess Marl- borough has been led to take such an active inte work of the society. Probably Lord Rossiyn, who acted in the United States under his stage name of James Erskine and who was the cor- ization > last d of it of the Viscou: D 53 n ladies have ty is now ter rescu ot respondent of a London newspaper through the South African war, v regrets more than ever that his famous stem” for bre the bank at Monte Carlo proved such a dismal fail- ure. For, » his Lordship's finances in as flourishing a condition he hoped they would be by this e, hé would be able to give his distinguished mother a hand in her present business difficulties. ROSSLYN MISFORTUN Misfortune seems to attend the Ros- slyns whenever they embark on money- making ventures, for it is unsuccessful speculation that has brought the Dow- ager Countess to her present con where she estimates her 2 s at $700.- 000, and her liabilities at 3 The Ccuntess, who, before her marriage, was Miss Blanche Adeliza Fitzroy, th pnly daughter of a Neorthamptonsh squire, owes her stockbrokers a most $30,000. Her losses were ine for the most part on London E change, but J 000 in South African spect Her fashionable Park Lane, the which is partly her property that of Lord Rossiyn. is and brings, it is said, $4450 a first meeting of the De creditors was held at Court last Septemb ment was asked for until No being promised that, as scon noblewoman's affairs could be ened out a friend would with $100,000 for paymer.t of the rate of $1 5 on the pc interval. however. the Cruntess fell ili, and her public examination was pest. poned again the the r when a