The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, March 20, 1904, Page 10

THE SAN FRANCISCO SUNDAY CALL. elv Spring Gowns in All Materials From Chiffon Velvet to Silk | Mull, and Styles Both Quaint and Severe for Women of Either Tall or Short Proclivities—Mar- velonsly Beautiful New Novel Ways to U'tilize Them for the \dornment of the Sea- SOI°s GOWRS. | Laces a Prescott. If these ¥ necessary to make shops. As the door re greeted by a sight and as your inues you are given : f a treat. The mer- have troubies of his own, ies in the pleasure afford to so many wn is made of deep a woman at a “I find that it is erial for this time unced t velvet gown of medium heavy velvets nor bro- e, will wear nice- i it. Such a er wear, it until the warm days come nd for informal re- is ideal. It goes is neither too woman Was un velvets are certain especially those a spring wear. They are b heavy court velvets nor and ceremonious brccaded £, but the lighter weights, which made in the latest styles e dra almbst like cloth I there are chiffon velv exquisite for trimming pu i which make the loveliest B * wide crush belts. You will it chiffon velvet almost in- sable in the mer wardrobe, pannes and plain velvets are irable for inserts and other trim- a great season for magte- ufacturer declared that ned out a hundred absolutely s, most of them disguised ell known names. There were r y.velvets in the list, ng- very heavy weight to the n velvet, and there were ich were as soft and as of crepe hree or de chine four different wide assertment, of which looks cloth that you can scarce- Batistes, come ir and of many grades, some ttiest eing built of ste, while othere, also e very sheer, so that hand through them. who is going to buy only I, indeed, be in 2 perplex- h material to choose, for the ead with the most al- too, mes so early this year that one har looks for the brilliancy of ns when the great gpring later. The first week of v little better than the last March from a standpoint of 4 unless the sun shines very e will be very little Easter rew £oring gowns will be ‘worn, e will be characterized by cer- features. A gown of moss »adcloth, thin and pliable but of the peculiar dignity which goes with broadcloth, is made gored skirt trimmed around b a Grecian pattern. There with attached tails, and the the coat has two long stoles falling down below the waist line. feature of the new stoles is their iming. Far from being plain, they borately planned. One very andsome coat has an open vest with . falling one over the other, like scalloped capes. The Early Spring Cape. The first cape of spring will be re- markable for its size, which will be very diminutive, and for its trimming, which will be very plentiful. The tiniest shoulderettes, very elaborately trimmed, will be worn with these first cloth dresses of spring. A fashionable woman left an erder for a shoulderette of black taffeta. little “Have it very wide on the shoulders,” said she, “and let it be cut on a'very deep sailor collar fashion. Let pieces of Bruges lace be applied to the shoul- ders and to the middle of the The front must have stoles finisk with- Bruges ends.” Another shoulderette has armholes but it is a tiny affair, cut off almost at the shoulder blades. Of course, there is the deen shot ffect, for nothing is com s long shoulder line. he front is very open. The whole is made of a black novelty very tough in its texture, with crochet lace let in. Perhaps the most novel of shoulder- ettes is a black lace affair, cut in square fashion ac s the shoulders almost like a sailor collar, with a lit- tle green hery running through ace. There are wide stoles of lace h great green shamrock leaves let into the lace. Still another little shoulder cape is cut in collar fashion rounding across back. d the shoulders and cdoming down to long points in front. This is built of very fine cloth and the whole is strapped with silk of the same color and stitched in tailor-made fashion. Another little article for spring wear i n eton of cloth cut very short. The sleeves are chopped off above the elbo 10 bordered with three rows of contrasting stitching. The front is t in sc row llops and there i the of scallops falling over first row. A novelty which bears a Pari stamp shows a little shoulder cape built like a bertha. It is high in the k, is cut off at the bust line and is shed with a ruffle of silk. It but- tons in the back. The front is trimmed with « silk applique put on fat. The Very Fasrionable Bertha. The bertha is undoubtedly one of the mpst faghionable of summer features, and all sorts of tricks are tried to simi- late it upon gowns that have no ber- tha, and particularly upon the old short walsts, to make them look like new. A bertha freshens up an old shirt waist wonderfuily, amnd if it can be arranged upgn a blouse of silk it gives it a certain tone that is unmis- takably fashionable and very becoming to the figure. A French modiste, with many a little trick of dressmaking, is taking very wide needlework, as fine as her patron can afford, and is gathering it into a ruffie. This she sews along the yoke of a wash shirt waist, outlining the yoke in pointed fashion. The effect is lovely. But, of course, it can only be done when the waist opens in the back. One of the finest of silk blouses is built of percaline blue louisine. It is buttoned down the back with Dresden buttone. The front is tucked ds to the yoke. Outlining the yoke is a deep flounce of Mechlin lace. The sleeves are finished with a wide cuff of chiffon and Mechlin—a lingerie cuff. The high-necked bertha effect is seen not only upon the wash gowns, but ou silk blouses as well, and not only in the cheaper waists, but in waists of velvet, of velours, of handsome brocade and of the most expensive lace blouses. An exquisite blouse for the Duchess of Manchester was made almost entirely of point and duchess lace, with a deep ruffle of point lace across the front, put on in such a manner as to give the bertha effect. And another hand- some blouse was made of real Irisn crochet lace, with a pointed bertha in front. ~ With the bertha there must be a very youthful belt line or the effect is lost. The prettiest and most youthful belts are those that are made of velvet crushed, soft to the hand, and laid around the waist in many folds and fastened in the back. At the back there can be long floating ends of the same material, or the girdlé may be finished with a buckle and without.the sdash effect. Sashes will be a great deal worn, but mostly with washable gowns, or with gowns that are popularly supposed to be washable; for, from a study of the wash dresses, one is bound to declare that many of them will never see the tub. The best sashes, that is, the sashes that are most approved by Dame Fash- ijon, are exquisitely made, and many of them require an amount of delicate handiwork that might better be ex- pended upon the gown. Yet the. sash is, after all, a very graceful feature of fine dressing. A handsome summer sash for wear with a violet silk mull is made of silk mull, which is lined with violet taffeta around the belt line. This is put around the waist in deep girdle fash- fon. The back fastens under a silver buckle. Two long, wide ends are inset with point de Venise lace, while wheel- shaped figures are worked around the lace in colored silks. +* ‘The Fancy for Armenian Colors. All the fashionable world has turned Armenian as far as color effects go. The gay colors of the foreign embroid- cries are very catchy to the eye, and, used in moderation, they set off a gown most charmingly. Cuffs, reveres and stock are made of cream colored can- vases worked in the brilliant Rouman- ian, Armenian and Turkish embroid- eries and are used in trimming gowns of crepe de chine, of taffeta, of peau de cygne and of still thinner and finer fabrics. One of the fashionable colors .of spring will be geranium red. Not only will hats be trimmed with the brilliant geranium flowers, but whole gowns will ~— be made of this color. Geranium col- ored crepe de chine, geranium colored mull and lawn and challie and gera- nium-hued taffeta will all be conspicu- ous in the summer's scheme of gown- ing. . Golf green will also be’'seen and a great deal of it. This bright, rich green, aé conspicuous in its way as hunting “pink.” is to be found in all the best cloths and broadcloths. It makes up very well into street suits and can be modified somewhat by black braiding or by stitched bands of black taffeta. Another green which will be much observed is moss green, and this com- bined with deep tan will be extremely fashionable. A 'moss green cloth gown is trimmed with lace and with bands of deep tan colored cloth. The bands are applicd with black stitch- ing and there was a tiny black figure appliqued into the lace. Women who are always at a loss what to wear and who fall back upon black as a safe resort, can take their choice of a perfectly safe list of grays, prominent among which is castor gray, which comes in two shades, light cagtor and deep castor. Both can be trimmed with black and with either tone there is a shade of blue, the pret- ty porceldin blue, which is very sat- isfactory indeed. Pearl gray, Irish gray and oyster gray are ull to be worn and all can be found in the popular fabrics of the season, voile, velours and the long list of soft veilings and silks. A Sensible Woman’s Gown. A gown which would have taken a medal for sensibility, with a great deal of beauty thrown in, was in tobacco brown cheviot, spring weight. The skirt was laid in plaits across the hips and back and each plait was stitched flat. - The skirt had the tunic effect. m'll [ 7 ~ erngy 11 ‘I'he tunic or overskirt fell over a deep flounce, which, in turn, fell over an- other deep flounce, the latter of sweep length. BJth flounces and the tunic were bordered with chiffon vel- vet. The waist was cut in Eton fash- ion, with scalloped fronts, while a great puffed sleeve was caught in at “the wrist into a tight little cuff. A great many street gowns are not so sensible as this, and one looks with amazement at the delicate fabrics that are intended for street wear. Many of them are light in color as well as frail of texture, and one cannot help won- dering how, where and why women will wear them. A conspicuous example of the frailty of feminind*wearing apparel is afforded by a glimpse at a gown of black net dotted with silk knots. There is a deep flounce which is embroidered in black silk and above the flounce there are very large wheels of thread crocheted and set into the goods. Above these there are wheels of real duchesse cut out of the lace and applied. The waist is quite a dream in black net and French knots, with the bertha effect in front and Iimmensely wide sleeves ending in the lingerie cuff. ‘While black net can hardly be rec- ommended for street wear, it must be admitted that there is an entirely new quality of net which is capable of standing a‘'great deal. It is tough and durable and Trather fine in mesh. - It is very satisfactory, indeed, for street wear, such as calling or for short ex- peditions when one goes afoot. It looks dressy and admits of such a pretty va- riety of trimming. A bldck net of close weave, tough vet very silky in effect, was lined with leaf green taffeta. It was trimmed with a heavy flounce of the net, faced with black taffeta, and upon the flounce there was a little hand embroidery in biack silks and in green. Bands of taf- feta were stitched to the skirt in panel shapes. A Season for Dressmakers. There is no doubt that thissis to be a dressmakers’ seasopn. It is impossible to do one's own sewing, so even the most competent amateur dressmakers admit, and the modiste must be called in. This is gcod for the trade, but how is it for the woman who must make her own gowns or go without? For the amateur here as just a few hints: Don't try to combine colors unless you are sure of your artistic eye. Copy a good model. If you caniot o one then stick to whit gray or to bl to golden browy Before vou mak the use to wh it. You wo niture ' w knowing I where you are going to use it low the same rule w or to black if yYou prefer Don't m r gown ¢ st pure your gown If you have a traveling gowr mind begin by remodeling an vear's s ; women fieiently to need @ dress for pose alone. Why not take an o and_lengthen it with a flounce double capes to the shoulders and hem so that th can be ta off your old cuffs and or v ver cuffs, to your i gauntlets, slee Remember that gowns are to be worn either ve y short or very long. and, for trave: the long gown is so very pre Besides, one does not walk when one is on boat or train, and there is little.or no necessity for the short gown. More Hints for Amateurs. If you are a dqcided amateur cling to the old favorites as being a little more familiar in their texture and con- sequently easier to handle than the new ones. of cashmere Examine the newest grades that and do not forget lovely. Cheviot comes in and almost smooth grades, and, if have only one or two street gowns, not neglect your chance fo get a ni fine serge. And tHere is another don’t. Don't forget the back of your gown That must be well fitted and abundantly trimmed, for the day of the old plain back is gone by. The trimming con- sists of double shoulder capes. of handsomely scalloped coll 1s of lace insertion applie > shoulders, and it includes the the lace inset, the worked wheel and many other things. For back trimpmings there are the crocheted drops and ends; there the fringes; there are the lattic ribbon, and, more than all, there the buttons, and of these there is no limit at all The button question is one might well keep the amateur awake through a worrisome night. Buttor come in all known metallic materials and in a great many that are not rec- ognized as metals at sight, yet wh ‘ are are that look and wear like metal. A button as large as a crabapple is made of gun metal and, inclosing the gun métal, there is a little netting of silver. These buttons, besides being as large as a crabapple, are much the same shape, with a shank to corre- spond” with the stem of the apple. For the amateur’'s busy fingers there is one safe trimming and this is the fashionable jet. Jets come in all designs and the jetted bands an Inch and two inches wide make the most becoming trimmings for silk bodices of any color. Jets are used a great deal upon black and the jetted flounces are as fashionable as they ever were. Jets are also seen upon collars and cuffs, and jets are used to trim yokes and girdles and to deco- rate the lace insets, without which no handsome gown is complete. Should the amateur be very desir- ous of getting into colors, let her choose mode or castor or pearl, let her select the wine colors—claret, champagne, absinthe green and bu gundy; let her select violet, purple] llac ahd sage, and let her not forget that geranium, rose, coral and toma- to are fashionable. But most import- ant of all is it for her to get a good model, for without this no amat can successfully make a gown for the coming summer. | A POINT OR TWO ON EDUCATION - way to school after enjoying the rest and the delights of vacation, makes pleasant music’in our ears. We love to 100k upon their ruddy, happy faces. We recall that gentleman of the old school who never falled to lift s hat to a passing schoolboy because of what the lad might become in ihe course of-the years. Never in the history of the world were educational opportunities so greatly prized or more generally util- ized. Parents will scrimp on food and clothing in order that their children may have a good schooling. Communi- ties pour out their funds liberally for buildings and equipment. It is the one great successful, soclalistic venture from which the American people will never retreat. In other lands, too, es- peciaily among the depressed and backward nations of the earth. the thirst for education is hardly less in- tense. That is why Porto Rico and the Philippines are appealing so loudly for tae Yankee schoolmarm. That is why our missionaries in Japan and China are forced to reay school build- ings lose by the churches which they estab.sh. . Mc” yver, the range of education is consi¥atly being extended and the quali\® of instruction improved. The ''an of who goes into a well- equipiad modern schoolhouse to-day is ama#“] at what he gees and hears. P T HIS tramp, tramp of the children along our streets, wending their Long ago education ceased to Qe a mat- ter of the three R's—"reading, 'riting and ‘rithmetic.” To-day it means not only the former branches of study, but the Kindergarten, manual training, the cooking and the sewing schools. Then, too; the way in which the truth is im- parted has changed. The teacher does not @rive 1n a few facts by sheer force plus the occasional use of the ferule, but tries to lead the awakening mind into fair and profitable fields of knowl!- edge, and to keep the pupi! interested; alert and acquisitive on every side of his nature. All this modern development gives greater dignity and importance to the educational movement. And it behooves the average man, whether he has chil- dren or not, to kéep in touch with it. Don't view the school system entirely from without. Acquaint yourself with the forces and personalities concerned in it. Get the point of view of teach- ers and of superintendents. Make them feel your sympathetic interest, your appreciation of the part which they play in the life of the city, of the tre- mendous influemce for good or evil which they control. And we ought not to expect tco much of the schools. TI:y can do a’ great deal, but they cannot do everything. They cannot, in a few short years, pro- duce a $5000 man out of a 50-cent boy: They have - great deal of material to work upon that is at the start crude and unresponsive. Give them time to make a gentleman, a scholar and a pa- triot out of your boy. And re that the school or college is not t only agency responsible fur his velopment., The church and the home have their function and if there b co-operation betpveen them z-d school, if instead, the three k at cross purposes, the result is be disastrous to the growing girl. Belleve also in the higher education, not simply the higher education in ita technical sense, but in that higher to or boy cation which fr and enlarges the mind and br nto joyous activity the spiritual powers. A child is educated when he is stuffed with Neither is he fully educated whe is taught to observe and to think v scientific accuracy. He must also have his soulMopened to the meaning of lif: his ears unstopped that he may hear the myriad voices through which the universe speaks and proclaims th glory and the goodness ¢ he invisible God. ’ There are wise limitations that vent the public school from doi everything possible along this line. And yet I know public.school teachers who without stepping across the bounds of propriety, do bring their pupils into touch with the highest things. Cer- tainly in the choice of a ate schoel or college one may have this end in view.'! And day by day in himself and in others closest to him one may cul- tivate this sense of the eternal. THE PARSON. ‘