The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, December 13, 1903, Page 10

Be Short and Neck Will Be Low and the Waist ‘ ng and Slightly | Influence of Upon L Coming Is Doing I " the of ses palms. Waiters nals danced attend-’ s Gould's face ent of rc a pretty pink, of her gown, ore waist »ek in the evening, ess; yet all Miss gray foulard in it. Her hat ned with a ned. was a deep with bgnds white moire gs of tur- heavy a very t plait covered vas there was » embroidery in d blues and wvas ground beyond which was turquol lay a bag 1 a scene inwrought The bag m it Miss little golden a lorgnette After dinner, to go, her black hat g plume, her pale silk delicate trimmings, and tailored skirt ject of all eyes. She t shape neat ked tl al woman of the sea- 3 the A Glimpse of the Coming Girl. Each the year 1904 will be f 1904 man & pictur she stands dressed, ready for pa- rade 1 will want to take a snapshot « She will be well worthy the \ of the camera. Her attire will ely striking, but will its lines and harmoni- than that, it will be becoming s uishing feature of the oman of 1904 will be the « schen which makes up her cos- The ombre, or shadow, tones will form the background upon which It up all the beautiful color har- which complete her dress. int changeable browns, helped out with orange and blue, will only afford 2 more striking background to the dash of red which will be seen in so many of the w 8. n, my lady, es she steps before he glass, will be gowned in shadow blue, that strange blue which is almost es deep as ink blue, and trimming this gown will be bands of cherry velvet, while coral Jewelry ornaments her neck and coral red makes up the trimmings of her hat Her handbag nd belt will be glazed red leather or red suede and there will be glimpses of and stock red in all her small appointments. ever in the history of dress have colors played as important a part as they will play this coming year, and never was woman allowed as wide a latitude in the selection thereof. 1In the greens she can go from lettuce green to invisible green, and in the reds can shade from a deepest pos- sible tone to the faintest shell pink. And as for blues, their variety is in- finite. Even purple holds a certain place in the estimation of those who dress smartly in the street. Dowagers revel in it combined with lavender and white. . From Paris there comes the whisper that brown will be the best color of the vear z brown d that ripe brown, whicl with red in it, will be us great deal with a most b is a d a ian} blue, ich combination makes a chic set-off for a handsome face. The Skirt That Is to Come. There is every indication that skirts 1 be of two kinds. One skirt, which 1830 skirt, will be short and full spring lawns will be made up this style and there w v in- n of the return to grandmother's very 1 b2 ev dic These skirts, when crisp, are very pretty, and a neat challie, a mull or a printed lawa will be very attractive for piazza wear, made up in this manner. They will probably not ther the skirts upon the band, but will shirr them in many shirrings or tuck them in Spanish style. The tucks will be low in front and will rise toward the back, while the skirt is finished with a bouf- fant effect around the foot. Already many of the trotting skirts, which are of instep length, are made bouffant around the foot. This is ac- complished by the setting in of fans, blas flounces and little ruffles. The ekirt, which js as tight as it can be buflt, suddenly flares around the foot where the Yans cause it to set out. This style is very good‘ for the woman who likes a trotting skirt, but cannot em- dure that slinking in around the foot. The dancing, or evening, skirt may be bouffant, but this is not yet determined. Several very short and very full danc- ing cotillon gowns havc recently come from Paris. But, as thcy tend to make the woman who wears them look very short and dumpy, it is certain that they will not be popular with all. These short cotillon skirts are trim- med with flounces and some of them look very much like the skirts which were worn Ly the belles of 1860. Shert, full ruffies and trimmed with lace, they are almost exact reproductions of the family portraits of that day. But the baliroom skirt will be long and tight-fitting and will tend to give & woman the fashionable figure, ‘which 1s that of slenderness, height and wil- lowness, and an absence of all that sug- gests embonpoint. The Necks of 1804. There is no. doubt whatever that the neck of 1504 will be cut slightly low. It ‘will be rounded out, and the blouses of the coming spring and summer will be qut with little Snish of Inge which re- veals the throat and neck. This sort of waist shows the little hollow at the base of the chin, and is particularly be- coming to women with good throats. The shirt waists that are finished in this manner, without the tall stock, are very numercus, and there are thou- sands of this description now being made in the work shops of the most fashionable modistes, for now is the time when they begin to prepare for next summer. The square neck, too, is coming in. This is the neck which is high in the back, but is cut in a little square dlp in the front. This shows the whole of the chin and the throat, while it 13 high on the sides and in the back. This is the old style square neck which was once so very much the vogue, The neck that is cut rounding, front and back, is also very good. This neck is not low by any means, but is merely curved out so that it exposes the whole of the throat and the back of the neck. It 1s semi-low, and it is finlshed with a little ruffie of lace through which a rib- bon is run. The ribbon is tied at the back. The style of neck will be worn for semi-dress occaslons. A silk waist finished for a card party had a slightly rounded neck finished with fagoting and lace. There is this great advantage about a neck that is rounded out, namely, that it can be worn with a lace collarette. This lace collarette can be as high as you please, and if of nice lace, it makes a very pretty finish for the throat. Colored lace can be worn in this man- ner and a little lace stock and shoulder- ette of turquolse green lace set off a gown of coffee-colored brown in the most delightful manner. G 4 The Lace Shoulderettes. The shoulderettes of tan lace ' losk very pretty over gowns of black or over shirtwaists of almost any color, and this furnishes a hint to the woman who ‘wishes to use up her old silk waists. The shoulderette will play a more im« portant part in the styles of the com- THE SUNDAY CALL U, DOMAGER NG S T VL > GOLD ing year. and, made in lace or made in a Qelicious combination of silk and chif- fon, it will be worn by the woman of fashion. Its virtues are that it makes the shoulder seem a little longer, giving the slope which is now so much admired. It also affords a background upon which there can be worked the most ex- quisite color patterns, and it gives an opportunity for the display of rare fem- inine handiwork. Again the shoulder- ette, if made of lace, shows off well the handsomer varieties of tnis fabric, and can be as rich and as elegantly becom- ing as one could desire. The newest are made with stock and shoulder cape attached and are em- broidered in Armenian colors and de- signs. Others are cut round in the neck, partly low, and are shoulder deep and exquisitely appliqued with small col- ored wheels, with flowers in raised ef- fects, and with all sorts and conditions of fanciful decorations. Perhaps the newest form of embroid- ery for the shoulder cape is fruit em- broidery. The style is that of the em- broiderer of southern France. And , Breat bunches of golden grapes, in silk and in fine cloth and in cloth of gold, are ralsed upon the delicate fabric of lace. Little red pears, the roslest of love ‘apples, and the smaller plums, are copied with great fidelity of color up- on the corners of the lace cape which my lady throws around her evening shoulders. Nuts, too, are made in silk and raised upon the*lace, and there are collars which are a mass of brown acorns, as natural as life and just as large. - ' The introduction of animal embroid- ery 1s a thing of the not very far dis- tant future. Cats and dogs, pigs and little elephants will be worked in out- line upon a lace background. With this lace collar the lady of fashion wears qangles of ellver animals. Little pigs " SAT GOBIY WITE / gy 7 f y in clover green gold dangle from gold chains, while little pigs in gold threed are embroidered upon the lace collar. The Waist of 1904. ‘Walsts are sharply divided into two classes, the very short waist and the very long waist, with a preference for the latter. The short waist, which is on the Empire style, is for evening, and the waist is usually one which belongs to some other period, a restoration waist. The Second Empire waists, which are worn with the round skirts, are becoming to slender figures. But it is the long waist, pointed In front, which is the most becoming, the waist that is most worn and the style wkich formg the patitern for the new shirt waists. Bloused in front, with the bloute coming down to A long point, tight on the sides and snug in the back will be the description of the waist that is to come. But, though this is gcnerally true, the likeness by no means ends there. The coming ‘vaist will be a very elaborate aftair, just how elaborate not even the niodiste who is planing it dares (o pre- dict. One thing ir very certain. The vogue for lace will not lessen, and the waist of the ruture will be wholly or largely buiit of this material which grows in popularity as it becomes wore and n.ore useful. At na time since the reign of Louis XI were laces so popular. The latest of the new laces were stout in their texture, of a color that wears well, and so durable that they can be ‘washed ke calico. It is a fact fhat many of the new cotton laces can be tubbed and rubbed and that all the nec- essary strength can be put upon them Irish lace shows a rose surrounded by shamrocks a All are small and very tail So great will be the fancy for lace of every kind that the woman wh desirous of looking certainly pay weekly visits t gain counter im order take advantage of any and ever portunity that may be offered How She Will Loo The woman of 1904 sque, yet withal a glimpse of her waving a. little like borough lady im that, from her headgear, there W Her hat will not be dried conventional type, b adapted to her own personall woman who can wear it will dash along in a hat whose plume sets her off and seems a part of her. The hat plume, according to the very latest standards of fashion, ald not exactly match the hat, but should ¢ trast with it. Upon a black hat there can be a white plume, and upon white hat a plume of black shows o best. Contrast is allowed in making the selection, and the hat which is tastefully chosen and which shows a great deal of contrast is the one that is the best of all from Dame Fashion’'s point of vie Select your clothing so that it will en- This ice next year pictur will catch through she is ves £ the set a W hance your own natural charm 1 be the motto in dress for the w an of 1904 The shoes for 1904 will be as re able as it is possible for conver shoes to be. The being flashy, the many’ respects, the most pro which is the height of the heel. The girl of 1904 will go mincing through the drawing-room, for it will not be possible for her to walk in any Upon high heels, wh h she will perch, h they are far from noticeable in are other manner. are veritable st ! while her toes will nestle down into the toes of pointed shoes that are exquis- {tely embroidered with pearls. White shoes, brongze shoes and satin shoes of all colors are trimmed for evening with little trimmings which set off their attractiveness a hundredfold. Upon the Instep of a slipper of black satin there is traced a little ribbon embroid- ery in pale bronze; and on the toe of the bronze slipper there is a little or-- nament in the shape of a silvered fig- ure surrounded by worked leaves. Slippers That Are to Come. And there is another type of slipper which will be fashionable. It is quite different from the embroidered type, though it has a very high heel. This glipper is the Priscilla slipper, made of suede or of glazed kid, but made as plain as possible. The Priscilla instep, high and broad with the wide leather tongue rising over the instep, are feat- ures of this kind of shoe. It is trimmed with a wide buckle, which closely resembles a beit buckle. This may be made of steel or it may be made of gold. Indeed, it can be fashioned of any material of which the belt buckle is made. And its place is upon the instep of the slipper, where it makes a glistening spot, bringing the foot into pretty prominence. One of these buckles is in cut steel It is very wide and quite tall and it is set on the Instep of & palr of dull black kid slippers, the heels of which are at least two inches tall and maybe taller. The stockings with these slippers are black silk, and they are inset with bands of white lace, which reach from the foot upward. These bands of lace are of delicate texture and each ome is embroidered in colors. The embroidery is as fine as though the stocic on view, to be contipually merely peeping out above the slipr top. And, by the way, the reign o cy stocking Is ¢ hosiery begin to The new hose a xture. In high. Yet there prices they are absurdly is one comfort always to be from the thought that a woman can at a pinch, emb ider her own stocke ings, insetting the lace and making them as pretty as they would be did they cost a great deal more than she paid for them. Perhaps the fashion of 1904 will be very remarkable ate, they can be made at home, in which they differ from the fashions of preceding years. The woman who wants to look like an 1330 woman can copy the pictures of the. old prints and can en- graft upon them some of the new feal ures of the year. But she must not neglect to preserve the low line of the shoulders, for this is one of the features by which the dress of 1904 will be distipguished. obtained in that, whiie elabor- 4