The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, August 23, 1903, Page 11

o S A WOQL. CREFE LE PARAS PHOTO S STANEG YA, SIBE e J STRARPED cam HAIR ZiBEL N B> RD sSTUDIO 1 =4 Bt THE SUNDAY CALL. A Pictoriavl Forecast of What Milady of Fashion Will Wear This Winter. GLIMPSE, a flash—and then pres- to—change! Such is the way with the frills, the furbelows and the concelts that are meant for noth- ing else under the shining sun but the adornment of women, lovely women. For what is called midsummer the pres- . ‘ent fashions are but a revival of the past, but they are so thoroughly transformed that no one but an expert would recog- inise them, and then there probably would be a doubt as to whether or not they had really been used. ' Bome four years ago the flowered mus- lins were all the vogue and they are most extensively worn at the resorts this summer, the main difference being in the cut, which is graceful, and the artis- tic trimming, which makes them into charming frocks. For instance, the shirr- ing used to be perfectly round, somewhat like barrel hoops slipped over the arms and then extended down as far as one pleased. The style was all well enough for very slender folks, but it was an sbomination for any‘'one with an ounce too much of solidness. This year the shirring 1s not done in that round and round fashion, but follows the drooping lines of the girdle, and the girlish girl is never seen to better advantage than when arrayed in all her light, fluffy, shirred glory. An important item is the care that is bestowed on the details of the silk or lawn slip worn under all gowns, especial- 17 the gauzy ones. It must be as soft and pliable and as carefully cut as the gown f{tself, to give what is commonly called by modistes ‘line -effects.” And, by the way, did you'know that organdy, perfectly cut and daintily trimmed with lace, is one of the most popular linings that can be had this year? Well, they are and for several reasons. With a thin frock, no matter what its purpose, the lining must be made with a train, and it 1s &nly a matter of several wearings be- fore the delicate silk or lawn is solled and all the fresh beauty of the frock is lost. With a silk underlining the sweetness is utterly irrevocably gone and it will cost a pretty penny to get & new one, more, perhaps, than gown warrants, but with the urgam’:lip it is quite different. All one has to do i# to send it to the laun- dry and lo! and behold! it returns looking quite as well as when it was new and the expense is but a trifle. So this winter when you, milady, are selecting your dainty evening gowns, re- member that a princess style is by far the most satisfactory, but remember, too, if you make your own linings that they are much more difficult to manage than an érdinary skirt with a sleeveless and low necked waist, for without the lines that make the princess what they are they are an utter fallure. ‘While the winter materials have chang- ed radically, that is the materials for heavy outdoor suits, there is the same lovely varlety of sheer goods that wiil serve agein for evening frocks. Silk mousseline, chiffon, mull, organdy, ba- tiste, nainsook, net and point d'esprit are by far the most popular on account of the soft, clinging qualities, as they are casily adapted to the present fashions. The day of crepe de chine and etamines hes passed and right sorry are the majority of folks to see them relegated to the dark shelves, for nothing could make & more stunning gown or be more serviceable than these two materials. In place of them has come the silk volle, although it s far too expensive for the average purse, and the modest nun's veil- ing, with & perfect legion of dotted and beautifully embroidered batistes. For the remainder of the summer and until late in the fall, taffeta in stripes and checks will do duty for traveling and shopping, and just at present ‘there s nothing quite so fashionable or seemingly quite so suitabls. In black and white, blue and green, blus and black and brown and white these silks are in constant de- mand and the simplest shirt-waist style "4 the best liked, sometimes piped with a #0li4 color by way of trimming, but other- wise perfectly plain and absolutely com~ fortable. ‘While these little gowns all l.o{ more as varied as one fancies. There are all degrees of checks and stripes, some sall and indistinct, while others are large and very decided, but all are made of the thin taffetas, the foulards entirely going out with the last season. Te our sorrow the shirt waist really seems to be going out. “Yet/who fails to remember when onec and all shouted at the top of their voices, “No matter what comes, I'll wear the shirt waist. It is by far too comfortable to be discarded be-_low in your skin it will bring out every cause fashion dictates so.”” ‘Well, fashion has said that the shirt waist must go and going it most certainly is. There are all sorts and conditions of pretty bodices made of the same matertal as the skirt is and for want of something better they are called the *“shirt” suits, but the waist of varied colors to be worn with one skirt is distinctly a thing of the past. To be smart the suit must be the same color and it should be of the same materfal. Fortunately, such costumes are swell and comfortable as well, and it may be possible that they will last until the supreme ruler, Mr. Frenchman, decides that we may glory in colored shirts with odd skirts again. For street suits the Shaggy, wooly materials have come in with a rush and a bang and right queer do they look, too, in direct contrast with the smooth satin finish that has delighted the hearts of all dressmakers. And the plaids, great squares and checks. Almoést until you can't rest. And the vivid colors. Just the very loudest and gayest that could possibly be combined. Of course, all the materials are not going to be checks. They could never be adopted by the woman with too much avoirdupois, no matter how smart they were, for thanks be, there are still a few women who realize that fashions are not always set for all folks and they wisely refrain from following blindly and look- ing, as & consequence, like a fright and recelving only the pity of their friends. Flecked goods seem to be their salva- for such purposes. The voile is a beauti- ful weave coming in checks, plaids, stripes and dotted, with a variety of novelties, showing white hairs all over the surface. ‘A swell gown for the late autumn is & pale coffee, a shade that has been worn quite a little and that seems to be well adapted to the complexion of the average woman. However, just a word of warn- ing. Try all these shades well before buy- ing. If there is the least'suspicion of bit of it and will give you a sallow look that is anything but pleasing. The waise is in simple cut, but elaborate as to lace and embroidery, and the three-flounced skirt, the upper flounce deeper than the others; has the hip yoke formed of whip cordings, that have been so much admired but not much worn. On the edge of each flounce is a band of deep ecru lace, and, if you please, a narrow band of silk, sa¥, in a deep red or some contrasting color, used somewhat in the piping fashion. Beneath this skirt a soft lining of taffeta is worn, and it is a pretty idea to have it several shades lighter than the material itself, for it shows through and lends quite another tone. Girdles are quite a feature in the fin- ishing touches of gowns these days. With such a gown the soft satin in the exact coffee shade should be worn. The front is rather narrow and deeply pleated so as_ to give breadth in the back. When it is possible fasten the girdie to the walist, for you will find nine times out of ten that it will set much better and re- tain its shape much longer. Pull it gently up on the sides, grad- ually, of course, until it h.s reached the height that you wish it to be in the back and then gently tack it here and there to hold it in place. Don’t be afraid of getting it too high. Six, seven or even elght inches will finish it off nicely. To be sure, it must be fastened in some way, and there Is no better or more sat- isfactory method than the great silk eyes. It wasn’t so very long ago that the ring fancy work was all the rage, so if you will hunt diligently ;yov may be able to find a few that will answer the purpose. tion, and as they come In an endless Va- They are generally wooden or of com- riety and in every conceivable color the mon wire and are covered with a stout heavy woman really is not to be pitied. buttonhole silk in the regulation button- A soft black covered with a long silk halr hole fashion. Fasten them on three- and with occasionally a patch of white fourths of the way around firmly, but dotted here and there makeés up as pret- be sure to leave enough space for a tily as can be imagined, the heavy mate- heavy ribbon to lace through, for that is rial belng cut to fit the figure closely and the way all'the girdles fasten at pres- with no more trimming than is really nt. Commence at the top and lace zig- necessary. i zag downward until the two ends of the For the girl with sparkiing black eyes and a quantity of black halr such a pat- tern in red, with a patch of black now and then, {s more than fetching. The warm tones bring out all her rich color- ing, and she looks her most bewitching. While hats really don't belong here, satin come together, and then tie the ends in a stiff bow with the short ends stick- ing straight out in donkey ears. It is a matter of cholce as to whether the streamers are long. or short. Somae think that tne small stfff ends are more chic, while others fancy the two ends short with the logps falling in graceful lines they are far too Importatit a factor to be 5. the bottem of the skirt, and really en*rely ignored, especially when speak- they are exceedingly smart when the fig- ing of a red and black frock. Pokes areé t0 yre is lithe and slender. be fworn this year, you know—the really, Not:onlv are suits and all manner of trdly poke that your grandmother and gowns made of these heavy materials, but her grandmother wore before her; the coats as well have been so desirable & kind that come down over the ears a lit- garment that they are Included in every tle, fit down snugly over the back of the well appointed outfit, and they. ars con- head and that flare right up in the front sidered. particularly Frenchy whef they just as far es they can and that afford are long and loode and maue of a check such an excellent opportunity to show off or a small plaid. The uses of this styl- the beauty of the latest hairdressing. ish and accommodating garment are too Yor several seasons it has béen the many to even be enumerated. There is proper thing to have a great plume, that scarcely an occasion when such a coat made your pocketbook feel 1ll for a week 18 not considered proper and effective as after its purchase, softly laid over the Well. To have the rough wrap does not rim and gently framing the face. It cer-. Mean that it must necessarily be light, tainly was vastly becoming and more than either in tone or weight, for a black pretty; but this fall the feathers are to Jacket can b.d'““’ .‘1“1'"’ as well as be used in quite a different way. In the & White one and be ';' "yh nch as smart. first place, such an immense one is really _ Black and :h".' s tl. P W re- not essential to one's happiness. Three T2 & E004 end popular combination, SR Uil thi we, though—are 46 :“nfii Do .n aav mn:rtcmrobu are faith- stand straight up, as though about to de- fU1Y carried out in these two colors, even to the embroidery and laces that clare their independence. On account of ” seem preferred to anything else in the the flare brim they may be seen now and trimming line, although let-in medallions then, but it will only be when the head of lace dyed to match and self-colored s bobbing In a saucy fashion, and then embroideries make ons of the best fea- the feathers will only serve to accentuate the 1 i Uiiibe weirer. tures of unique ornamentation. A Hmporsaress Y e Those of you who possess gowns of So, now, say If you can that this winter umoth materials that are new and strik- will not creats havoc with the hearts of yng preak your heart and your purse fm- men. The quaint old styles always have megiately and wear them out while they been admired, but not until right lately g1 retatn their popularity, or elss you have they been evoked with as much 80- will have them on your hands and will curacy es at this present time. be ashamed to get the good of them. No A calling or a reception frock will not woman cares to parade the streets in a necessarily be made of heavy materials— frock of last summer's make, neither in fact, it would seem that they would does she fancy wearing materials that _or less gomewhat alike, they can be made be far tog heavy looking and too warm have pasied intg oblivion, BELs 11 Fabrics from the White House.