The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, August 23, 1903, Page 10

BISCUI™T BROADCLOTH Ti oAV AND Cy Madge Moore. ey me alone. ance ng to by means of & t it gives the right, flam- shade entirely have had on was itself ong red the hair covered the top ped over plumes, and of the brim be 2 host of to be sure, that gives one that olks never dream mplete her cos- bright red at forty different 4 2 red bag with R. gold letters on it 3 and white ones ‘ that silk gloves were n the market. t was too irresist- Outwardly it lpoked it divulged the 1 imminent- that wom: such a so to men. There was bottle, but filled wee powder to get off so might roll and the hings t s are so t with them. But the was the powder puff. ng purple silk bag, the size r. carefully drawn to- g and represent- e flat hip purses ut lo, and lled there white, ready that may your eyes. firmly in its silken # been used it can stened and no one Certainly to look at r m that it was = Ing purposes, Miss Gussie, has just as e of smooth black and ke mater the main differ- ut of the coat. It is sle and not quite as to the knees, but it of being something new and kind she vpars a large hat of tulle. Large and round and it a particle of trimming on the materia] itself. With an allor suits some kind of a waist must be worn and we have got it into our heads that the heavier the material the plainer its make, the smarter the waist i=. Yet the waists worn by these girls, | bearing the name of a French- man, are just the thinnest of the thin. The regulation babv waist, 2 mass of tucks and lace, with new and then a bit of sheer lawn just to show what the ground was pleated with SPANGLED MIXED GRAY SUIT WITH RED PARASOL. RED BAG AN RED HAT or ntended to be. .. ght to 1o rather frigid to wear. s one thing 1 want ic say right T H . whe have etam.ns gowns not feel so badly about it, even If vour next door nrighbor is wear- ing awfully fuzzy and bia, o Etamines wil New York ev coast back here ag 1 be rn “How perfec y queer about etaming lau; s. Belasco, when 1 looked surpris seeigg a new fr Why, they are %= much woi These two gowns are perfec , E ste of them | N o are pe: c behind times when d then when [ e she aoded, to tell them re the change has b 3 Not in the m itself making and tk w mings. No more luces are usec <5 they are an exact mat For pearl gray bl is to th.s there s one perfe erally white dyed all colors to sult the mate the woman who buys a white white trimmings for a tan frock hdsn't a class dressmaker behind her always the goods itself that ma ylish frock, but the way it is made.” There is more truth than poe too, if you but knew it. T was as plain as plain could be, that is. hout the lace, but the great and the bagg. sleeves with great spra ns, with now d the nun’s garb into an ul « and then transformed fashionable afternoon calling costume Black etamine is always pretty and should retain its popularity through thick d thin. One of the prettiest I have seen many moons belongs to Miss Gussie, who by the way has a decided preference for blacks in every kind of materials “I tell mamma if I am ever going to wear black I ought to do it right now,” #ald as she laid out several somber she skirts. “I never could make out why a woman wants to walt until she be- gins to show wrinkles before she puts he most trying color that was ever invented. Whv it brings out every de- fect and makes people look as old as the hills, but it's the smartest thing to wear after all,” and away she danced Just for the fun of the thing. That girl's fun is contagious. She sim- ply brims over with vivacity and high epirit and even the doubtful pleasure of standing up and looking “pretty, please,” ROSES ON Wi I~ A ad) in half a dozen gowns was considered In the light of a great lark. It wasn't a bit of trouble for her, and she tripped gpout leaving a trail of laughter and good humor behind her. MIFTY BLACK amMD WHITE WALKING SU\T ANMND EBCw g v AacE THE SUNDAY CALL. re But back to that etamine gown. The front breadth {s wider than the ordinary ©ne and is in reality an embroidered pan- el. From there two rows of shirring commence about nine inches apart and encircle the skirt drawing it In & snug fashion, but not nearly as closely as many ©f the ghirred skirts have already been drawn, o It behooves those of you who possess the tight skirts to let them out at least two inches. Certainly that will be something to the good, for nothing has ever ‘been more uncomfortable or more awkward. She possesses s swagger gown of black spangled net, a gem of & thing for sim- plicity, for when you stop to remember that ‘all simple things cost like furiation it makes it very plain to be seen why %0 many people like & thousand and one ruffies, & bolt or so of lace and a host This frock is spangled in & trailing de- sign, rather lightly about the hips, but increasing In weight and size untll at the bpttom there s a bewildering mass of glinting, glittering bits always intent ummn playing hide and seek with them- ves. The waist is almost severely plain. The low yoke and the elbow sleeves are trans- parent, while the body is lined with a tight fitting taffeta that holds and curves the rebellious spangles. Collar—there is .of dangling dodads. PRiNCESSe PREAM OF nflr\e.‘t the throat a small row of bright,. shining glints finishes the waist, but as she always wears a dlamond and pearl collarette with it the trim little finish is never seen. Strange as it may seem, neither of these girls who have everything under the shining heavens that they want and a8 whole host that they don’t care two pins about care the least for dia- monds. Nnt even enough to wear their mother’s, for they don't possess any of their own, excepting the bars in the neck- laces. But their fatber needs to write an extra play now and then to keep them supplied with pearls. Pearls in every imaginable manner—collars, ropes, pins, rings and everything that has ever been invented in the jewelry line, but no gem other than the pearl will answer their purposes. Miss Reyna wears a rope of baroques that would be the delight of any girl. Every pearl would shame a good sized pea, and as there are but three links of gold between each one it makes an almost sglid pearl chain considerably over two yards in length. In the most nonchalant manner she twists it about her throat and lets it drop as it will, and even then it is too long. Just at pres- ent I'm lving in high hopes, for it caught on & chalr, and in a rash mo- ment she promised me enough for a neck- lace, saying it would be plenty Ilong enough for us both. Earrings evidently must be the style for girls, although so far we haven't seen them here. Both the girls wear immense pearls, too large to be comfortable, I thought, but it developed that they were a new wrinkle, and a clever one at that. The pearl is held in place as any other screw earrings might be, but instead of being in two parts and piercing the ear it is fashioned in one plece. The ear is slipped between the pearl and the gold and the screw is tightened until it is snug enough to hold it in place. Much larger stones can be worn without any discomfort and it does away with any plercing, which is so uncomfortable. Be- sides all this, it doesn’t givé men an op- portunity to say that “rings in the nose would be quite as sensible as boring holes in the ears.” “I'm going to show you something that teally is new,” sald Mrs. Belasco, after she had brought out what seemed to me Iike a small houseful of what she termed trinkets. ‘The banquet ring, and I'll warrant you haven't seen anything lke it, now have you?” and she handed me the queerest ring it has ever been my fortune to see. The design is a scroll and very fanciful, without a frace of heaviness about it, and all carried out in diamonds and gold. But the size of it! She simply couldn’t wear another ring i she wanted to the wore. way. It ex- tends from knuckle to knuckle and the two inchea is @& perfect blaze. “There are hosts of small things that the girls always carry about with them, in fact, it is hard to remember them all, but the newest in bracelets is pretty and simple, something that any young girl can wear with perfect propriety. They are merély a gold band about an inch in width with & single initial in chipped dia- monds. Of course, the monogram may be used if one cares for it, but as a rule the single letter is more effective and it may be made any size and studded with any stones if ene doesn’s care for the diamonds. “And studded things just reminds me. Paris is filled with studded beits in cut steel and jet. There are any number of studded purses in all sizes and for all pur- poses, studded with jet combs for the hair and almost everything that you can think of. Those combs are beautles and particularly chic for evening wear. I sup- pose you know that bows and high stand- ing ornaments are thoroughly passe. Crowns of jet or studded with rhinestones are much later, but the newest and swell- est of all is a wreath of green artificial fern studded with rhinestones. For theater wear it is the prettiest thing a girl can put on, for it doesn’t profess to be anything but sweet and dainty.” “Boots?” 1'asked as I looked at a palr of gray suede that now and then showed a bit of themselves under a gray skirt. ‘““Shoes, why all shoes match the gowns worn, of course,” was my prompt answer, and I dimly thought of one or two women I had seen walking down Market street shod in red and gray tles that matched their frocks to a nicety. They had at- tracted more attention than a hundred women with ordinary boots would have done. And they were the latest style and we didn't appreciate it, but looked upon them as faddists. “If you wear brown, brown.” Your hat matches the frock, your coat matches the frock, your boa matches the frock and it is the same with your shoes and your gloves. This year ‘isn't & year of white, as it was last winter. Then everything was white, and white for all occasions. Now 1t’s solid colors and nothing else. In New- port red, blue and green are worn in lin- ens, and even the parasols and bags must express the same tone, 50 you see It keeps one busy getting enough clothes for the summer and then when you have them it is time to start all over again on the winter outfit. I don’t wonder Mrs. Belasco thinks it is a task to buy clothes and the thousand and one whatnots that go with them, especially as her two lively girls ha everything new long before others have even seen them, and when their elaborate costumes mean & trip across the ocean it is quite evident that it consumes some little time and not a few pennies. Princesse gowns have returned at the beck and call of Dame Fashion and for slender people, something that has never been quite a howling success before. They have always been considered stunning for a Venus-like girl, but, untortunately, only about one out of ten girls possesses a fig- ure that warrants wearing such a cut and looking their best in {t. Now, the same long, graceful lines are there, but just at the waist line there s a slight break and the smallest imagin- able pouch. The back is tight fitting and generally plain, but the tiny deviation makes dll the difference in the world. Satins, especially in baby blues and the new salmon pink, trimmed with soft lace are ideal evening gowns, but the girl who wears them successfully must look and act the part of an aristocrat, for they are positively regal looking. Flowered chiffons are popular, or would be if everybody could afford them, but as they are ordered designs they will al- why you wear Ways remain somewhat of & noveity. Miss Gussie has an exquisite one done in wild roses with the soft tints blended into the under linings, which are pink and white chiffon over pink taffeta. Narrow in front and gradually increasing in width om the sides, and then again decreasing, i a heavy plece of ecru lace which restrains perfect billows of pleated colored chiffon, which tumble about every time she takes & step. The walst is soft and sweet. The yoke is of the lace, and thers are small caps extending over the immense colored sleeves, which are caught again at the wrist by the same ecru bands. The body proper is flowered and the roses seem to run about in the wildest confusion, drop- ping a bud here and & spray there, while now and then a wee cluster of leaves Seems bent on Investigating the world and what is in it I wonder how many people realize that the bulldog boots that have been so im- mensely popular are almost a thing of the past. The pointed toe is here again, and strange as it looks and feels it has found favor with the smartest of the smart and is here to stay. And tan boots. Several years ago no well equipped wardrobe was considered complete without the low rus- set shoe, and then suddenly and without any warning they dropped completsly out of sight. In fact, it seems to me that the newest accessories are really the oldest. dating back to the time of our grandmother. Her quaint, little satin sash has been un- packed and given to this generation. her lace scarf has been utilized for fiying streamers and all her odds and ends, Do matter what their original purpose . have been confiscated and pressed Into duty again. “There are just two more things that might be of interest to you,” Mrs. Belasco sald as she straightened out a biscuit- colored broadcloth coat, “and they are about handkerchiefs and veils. You have on & thin weil, but I haven't one In my possession. Everything is heavily dotted, the heavier the better, and the veils that are worn on the hats are much lighter than they used to be. In fact. no woman in New York goes about town without two vetls. One 1s snug to protect her hair and the other is loose and flying to the wind. “And handkerchiefs are no longer all white. Now, don’t misunderstand me and think I mean that they are all solid reds and blues, for theéy most certainly are not, but they are more than likely to have a touch of color, and I think they are often prettier for it. There may be a band of pink and a small initlal worked in pink on sheer white linen, or there may be a blue border edged with lace, but color of some kind you will generally find on the handkerchief that is late of Paris.” Wrinkles, wrinkles, wrinkles. Will there ever be a time when the wily Frenchman will be content to sit down and clasp his hands in idleness, or will there ever be & time when women will refuse to linger over a 4 o'clock tea and gossip abeut the latest in clothes? Somehow when I left the Belascos and their pretty “traps,” as they call them, I was nearly bursting to spring the newest in frills and furbelows, and every woman that I have seen since bas added a rose herd and g bow therge the result of my missionary work.