The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, August 9, 1903, Page 10

THE SUNDAY for the other of the pattern can fitted gored rt waist the belt of the 0, well a waist cut on the shi ch over back more s ma- gowns to be season, 1zany e for her who is indus- taste. And no young even though her 1 1 to half a Evening Shirt Waist Suits. ming of hop ng shirt with two ck and the and the other ves the owner a hange and provides iresses instead of one. Harbor dancing girl appeared of the loveliest evening dresses of Its material was a fine white even is A E the in one of organd slin corset the season die skirt she linen and the skirt was plain, except for petticoat, the pink & panel of narrow tucks down each side Then came the embroidery of a lttle em- wn each seam )attern upon the of the tront scheme, which consisted broidered vine running e organdie in a very 14 imagine that a have T » for there were two of er e of linen and lace put et with embroidery run Ing t One was cut rouniing to give decollete effec.. The other Newport belles have taken to em- Wwas high, with & very clever lace stock y with a fer finishing the neck The b of the season will want this year & very wide embroidered collar, one with any gown. And, to make y corners work embroider- r she will find it necessary wa'st gowns. The ut out of brown paper a pattern that te and the favorite just fit her neck and shoulders. terminates in a point, which projects over the shoulders. All around the edge there is an embroldered vine. It is thus a square collar with points coming in the middle of the front, the middle of the baeck and low upon each shoulder. The decoration of the square collar de- pends upon the taste of the owner. And in this respect the French modistes advise the sort of embroidery which was once in vogue for the flannel petticoat of sacred memory 0ld-Fashioned Embroidery. The embroidered flannel petticoat has dery which made the petticoat an old fashioned work of art is now placed upon the squere linen collars which are worn i sround the neck of the belle of the sea- e e s lepad adge, itk 1t sasbrotdery ~ P 0 o ery; 7 ;’b(/,'ié‘é-u“f‘_/fi: there are the eyelet holes; there is the _TWOSCOIOL L s braided design, and there are the count- wrTH WAAEAAT Jttle knots and twirls and tiny leaves ey embroidery a white cotton thread, rather The collar must open In the back, where coarse and washable. it is fastened with small pearl! buttons. prettier shirt waist sult is made In the front it comes down to & long point ©f blue, and the materials can be lawn, over the bust. Upon each shoulder it her belledom; and the chief attribute is found In her dress, which must be charm- ing In every respect, delightfully chosen, beautifuy fitted and appropriate st all THE NEWES times and in all places. Without goed dressing she can hardly become a bells, much less can ghe hold her belledom for any length of time. The summer belle gets her results this year by the very most trivial methods and you would be surprised—were you to make a critical study of her dress—to see how naturally and how simply she draws beauty out of her growns. It 18 the chief aim and ambition of the summer girl to make the shoulders wide and sloping and to narrow the size of her hips. Anything that will do this 1s eager- ly sought by her, for this s the fashion- able figure of summer. Hips are fitted, until they cannot be fitted any more closely, and the waist, while not squeezed, is drawn down and flattened in the front to make it appear smaller. The shoulders, on the other hand, are padded out, if the belle is not sufficlently broad, while the long slope of the shoulders is encouraged. The Common Styles. The most fashionable shoulder is the and, If you would gain an fashions of the summer just take at the fashion plates and see how ad- mirably they show the best features of of the summer gowns are these: Hips that fit snugly, whether the skirt be plaited or plain. A skirt that is very long, sweep length being preferred. A belt that is very wide and cut to & pointed girdle in the front. A waist that bags over the belt, mak- ing a full blouse in the middle of the front, while the sides and back are snug. EYENING SLEEY A wide full bust, profusely trimmed with lace or applique, tucking, hem- stitching or other pretty needlework. Bands of insertion running across the front to make the bust seem fuller, deep- er and wider,.in cut. A long shoulder line with the shoulder seam cut low to give the should ope. Trimmings that project over the shoul- der such as lace collars, epaulets, silk trimmings, cords and ends and embroid- ered shoulder caps. Embroidery here, there and everywhere. Insets cf lace, insets of Mexican wheels and Insets of all kinds, including little Insets of hand painted taffeta, and hand painted linen and lace. A preponderance of trimmings cre mall compared to the rather large de- signs of last year. How delighttul it is to study the New- port gowns this season. Coming as they do directly from Paris, stralght from Vienna and by direct dellvery from the leading dressmakers and designers of the ‘whole universe, they display not only the present and prevalling modes, but they forecast those that are to come. Judg- ing from a morning’s study of the hand- somest gowns for beach and plazza, one cannot help noting certain features as pre- dominating over all the others. Lace Wheels and Crocheted Balls. One of the most popular of trimmings is the wheel trimming, which is seen upon all the nice gowns of the season. Wheels are done by the ‘omen of Mexico In thread and are sent North and sold by the dozen. They vary in size from a dime to a sllver dollar and on up to a few as large as a butter plate. These wheels are used in all sorts of decorative schemes and In all capacities. They are admirable, whether as insets or as simple trimmings, or placed in points of vantage upon & gown, forming the yoke of the walst or hips, or decorating the full waist pouch. Wheels of silk and wheels of panne vel- vet are equally popular, some of them overlald with lace, others put on plain like great eyes to stare at you naively from the walst. Circles of black velvet, each circle buttonhole stitched around the edge, are & feature of the French gowns, See the Great. Special G. A.R. ] A. R Pictorial Edition in’ Multiple Colors note of black which is for they give t so much admired by the French. They are used to outline the yoke or are set above the skirt flare. Another very noticeabls feature of the summer dress and of the gowns that will be worn next fall is the style of trimming which for lack of a better de- scription may be called the hanging trim- ming. And of the hanging trimmings it might almost be said that there is no end The most conspicuous are the crocheted drops which hang from frogs from passe- menteries and from decorative ornaments of all kinds, including metallic buttons. For the Handy Woman. Silk waists that fasten in the back are prettily trimmed as to the front with silk frogs that finish with ends and loops and balls and queerly tied cotton and silk or- naments. These are very decorative and if carried out in White are extremely dain- ty, giving a finishing touch to the walst. And what a season It is to be for the womah who is anxious fo transtorm her wardrobe from time to time into some- thing new and attractive. Apd what & season it is for the summer belle who either keeps a maid or is handy with her own fingers. She can take her old shirt walsts, a lit- l runken, & little the worse for wear and a great deal the worse for sun and wind, and can cover the faded spots with assel or- handsomely gned cord and naments that hang as low as t band and which dress up the gown untll it looks as though it were crisply new. But for the most part the hanging trim- mings are shown in the handsome orna- ments that are used in place of buttons, and you also see them upon the cuffs and upon the collar, where they give & finishing touch to the grown. When the fall comes in you will beboid corded ornaments used at the fromt of the belt in the place of the buckle; you will see them fnishing the backs of stocks; you will see them placed along the upper part of flounces, and you will see them forming panels, vest trimmings and trimmings of svery description, used in overy possible way. was worn by the Duchess ough. Its foundatiom with glazed surface. Its very plain skirt that flarss gradually a sweep length, with hips that it as 1y as possible. the new elbow sleeves are planned to do. The bright particular feature of this §own was its trimming, which consisted of panne silk in a shade of turquoise blue shading a very little on the green. Leaves of this blue panne were cut out in lttle branches, five leaves upon & branch, with a delicate stem. These were appliqued upom the whits taffeta In' & very neat way, one almost touching the other, until the whole gown was trimmed with them. The effect was something lke a brocade of white with raised biue figures standing out far upon it, yet it was prettier than any brocade, as the leaves were arranged In & sort of pattern, pointing this way and that way, so as best to set off the delicate slender figure of the wearer. After all It is the figure that counta If a woman la stylishly built, carries her- self well and dresses in taste she looks well. If she be too stout, too dowdy, too indolent and too listless to preserve her figure and hold herself well she ean never be made to look nice no matter if all the modistes of the seven centers of the world were to work upon her. Women spend toe much time looking up dress patterns and too little tiiae studying the problem of how to make them up fash- fonably so as to bring out thelr own best lines. A unique feature, recently introduced at Newpeort, is that of combining lace and tassels. A lace flounce which was set around a low neck was caught here and there with silk cords, which were tied into knots and from which hung tasseled ends. This made & new kind of trimming and quité a pretty one.