The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, April 26, 1903, Page 10

ter, a few Arops at a time, until it will tack as possible. Slowly exhale. An- take no more. Put into a porcelain jar otler exercise for chest development is 210 cover with rose water. to reach upward as far as poss draw 8 — dowy ¥ to the side and Coleridge.—To develop the muscles of “T'Y upward. 2 the chin and thereby prevent a flabby ap- pearance, press the lower lip upward by depressing the chin, as In the act of pout- ing as strongly as you can. Crook the forelinger so as to form a half circle. Fu: the half circle thus formed over the point of the chin, just below the mouth, anc. then press downward lightly with the finger. At the same time press the lip upward strongly e to push the frger up with it. Al ntracting the musele hard enoughe orce the finger upward, immediately felax it. Stella Mai—For fi dram powdered borax w glyeerin G @ rosewater and benzoin and bitter almond constantly. Apply every other means of a camel's hair br freckles. Here Bessie—The lock of hair you = 1s " 1y pala blonde. The color is supposed 10 o aromeie Mony D= indicate that the possessor is impulsive s _ One receivt calls and affectionate. inie and George J sty should be measured without shoes. bergamot and qil of lavender. Mix and ct, close to a wall. To measure ghake well until the camphor is dissc of shoulders requires the assist- Keep in a well corked bottle and v ance of a friend. Stand with the arms wanted rour a little Into the water used at the s'des. The measure is taken about for bathing the face two Inches below the shoulder blades. —iid Movements for developing the chest Nettis H. M.—An excellent. exercise, should be stmpie at first. Stretch the which will help to overcome tha heav arms forward, with palms touching, torpid feeling so common to corpulence while the _breath slowly inhaled is to contract and expand the muscles through the neetr Gradually move about the lower ribs by practicin the ms backward, turning the palms muscular movemen of deep breathing uoward until they are carrfed as far without taking in any brea nd suit of south, am each oll of rosemary By MRS. E. P. SCHELL. fere with the dlam should it become establish: NE of the commonest errors into Trick 5—South has no possible re-entry which beginners frequently fail for bis diamonds, and his best chance of g when Dringing them in is to underplay, even is leading a high trump with 7 to the ace, queen: but he prefers a low one should h been led. ¢, taka no chances with his and If they would bear in mind that leads it (liere are (hres good rules governing the Trick ¢—East should not trump thi opening of a trump hand—(1) Holding two trick, aithough his doing so makes no picture cards and the ten, you would lead difference in the : plain suits. (2) Holding three high MCrth !g shorteof ds, lead as in pialn su ) Holding DXt I0URd, e e and seven in suit, lead the ace. Aside 20 opportunity : mends. fr these combinations o ;h card : LT s Bkt srie il W In a position of this kind east, as a oy It o emember Ve should not trump the diamends until that it is much better to lose the first *I'¢ KNOWS Squth Bas no mere. ;nl' ':‘“9': round of trumps than the third. But as a :";‘f,"l‘,i"f“'";“b:‘:x‘ g ’l’on;“;;'im’;:d usual thing when the novice holds five, or po10® AP 10 LAINE 1D T8 OF8 of re-en- even four, trumps to the ace and KINg. try his suit will be shut out by this meth- it he [lunr;uu»m: to lead trumps at ail o4 of piay, while trumping before north is be will almost Invariably piay out the ot St sl notth o ace. then the king ard then a small one, e et Sount thus often depriving all diamond, thus allowing 8o chance to win o trick in trumps a prec o g " ently leaving the oppoments in com- 16 Wity ta Wile cennce- mand of the trump suit. It is often diff- cylt to persuade even players who are Guite advanced to abandon this pernicious ctice and they shake their heads and test when advised to lead a small trump from six to the ace and king. Tne small trump should nevertheless be led in all their dla- rth in lead his losing trump and not with the diamo Ordinarily sing trump against the and he will be able to force ! yed by leading a piain suit, - o bt -~ v § at least, Egrpt. or the scarab, or mummy in enam- £8 an original lead from this combination t when north holds a los ¢l; or an emeraid shamrock leaf from It is not goed play to lead the ace of h is marked with a ware of Sparkling Stones = Irelar trumps from strength with less than t, of which n K 2 s lines even unl he leader holds the ace provided north is ce yes Are Dull—Pearls Soften eeven unless t - rth 1s > . 2ab: and the sweep from (b Answers to Coirzspondents. aqueen, jack and others, in which case the the lead, he = 8- Waoe-—Temcelsts Mt nbe X ¢k are Ruth L.—If the nccleis short and thick ace she SO 100, AT S FOCORL SR ARe . a White Hand— v < colfture should: be.ok following hand was played and a loss of r's sult, wh o Many or None A e flower or ‘half wreath Is six tricks susialued, chiefly as the result as north > . for full dress occaslons. :,V:}eld high tramp. from ‘five ta the el . o e Sead north RETHE make a easy am, alr B 285 ) . ldo—Twenty moilons with each arm t nents.” They played ten to begin with. A uld follew athlei- but don’t give up the ex- you have tin r the al uge cf Turkish tow- rub may occas the ba‘h BY KATHERINE MORTON. by T. C. McClure. A swan throat is roved by lace, but Jet it be a broad one. ( Duchess of Marlbor ht 1 swan throats fav London with h ous pearl necklace po of seven strings oned at the back o the t with seven big diamonds of gold exactly four and « wide. So lovely did her Grace that every smart woman in be en- be worn with regard be sub- tashionat ragement ring ia w ird finger of the left hand ke room for the we the engagement ring 1= ihe gold circiet and acts as n gems—rubies, emi- nires—do mot look f red. They are not on with Titlan-hued that is frankly red. ot make them ap- a band jt {a removed to g C i 10 possese a b K € (o by putting sparkling dla- longed to R “‘:3 . Nelile C. M.-To wash a hairbruzh, dip : em. They detract from the 1t Was the broad necklace that g 1t in weter containing a strong sslution eves and teeth. This applies Srace and an ratic bearing to the soda. Rinse twlice, first In . o jong throat. 1f a narrow jeweled band rd ihen i Weak Lt e i i had been worn the eff would have t-r, which stiffens the bristies. Dry in arl 4=, of all precious stones, the been quite diffcrent the sun. With a little care the brush can Shoa, SRS ¢ the be washed without getting the back wet b e boues base o . which becoming is the ' Dhen bor a ‘h 3t iroat an 09 Lrusive hey may be co- > ot tonkinolse, wizich throat are tos intry boger & Fanny Ferr—For inflamed gums rid »an azure, mokes rced into submission and conccalment by ., tyo juris glycerin and one part a - Ses lighter a pendant attached to neckiace. * powg oG s A short, thick neck improved by a e aow ant Sl a At w band of jewels—black pearis, Af'ene ard Doils.—A good cold cream ¢ Altention’ Tre S ¢ has money to invest in such luxuries; to inussage throat arms is made by ondhis - S 2 DSk 98 idGed with Meiting one ounce each of white Wwix . oy réiNde s ard spermacett! in a double boller. Add e e hines:Jnes, Is particularly pretts o ot ol e s bt - ek W i Nearly every woman belleves that a ¢ 3 Wi ety i o R gl ’ i Skt 20e black velvet band brightens the beauty oy lsam. Best all well together s se of their weighty suggcs. ©f her neck, when in low corsage. Espe- uutll It s a cream. Then add jose wu- 4 jally if it be long and slender, she ets are guite as often fashioned 1NSIST UF x P ”r‘“ s.ack \».-]u }'r.h na)A- of sold. One of antique stiver, TOW Decklace about i, and thus, s makes it look even .longer and nore slender. The effect is to make the neck appear longer and the face to.iner. It n With 8 100 ..nip Hica, e decorate herseii a favorite style at ent deed, topaz in every shade, itom pale straw color to deepest. yellow, is in the stout won who may which is the brunette's own, is < ’:: ’;k‘. ok BT!:VIU{(‘ - Earrir are one of the jeweled ver ¥ deeply set, llke gems riveted in " n ments that enhance a woman's pers nal the broad anklets of a Turkish princess, e beauty, for, it rightfully chosen, emphasize the best points In hair, tea- Wd light and s the distinguishing mark of a coral bracelet, which a showy can wear A dazzlingly white arm © display their charms with the bracelet cunningly fashicned of pearls and sepphires, in form of {orget-me-nots A blonde usually has besuti lerge, hands iressy woman turcs and complexion and I r to the face. A few years ago the wea rings was stigmatized 4s barbarous the majority of women consider thein 3 e effective ornament solitaire pearl or afamond carring ! even 1f she knows how to use Ul aiw remain the spec them, end e knack of turnimg her “' "y ’n' . {rm"m" 4 a o oman so fortu s wrist to display a jeweled hackle to ad- s g £o0d specimen. There are aisc vantage, let her wear a shi kle of gleam- ing opals so made that the sett visible. One of dark b'ue enam ¢ evolve many mure now that the encrusted with ¢ilmends, ‘s equally be- has come in 2 ¢ " L 4 $E . [WE ) coming Mcat becuming 10 & well-shaped head ¥ > 3 A Z IYAL ToUCH In earlier ages the bracelet was we and good protile are earruigs bining / N\ 3 o\ » ]p A "rom;‘- by knights and gay cavaliers as'a badge (WO Btms—emeralcs and glamonds, or \ 7’0]&57723' 15 ? servit y turquoise and diamonds, set in of servitude. which they picdged 1o the y;own as the “swing” pattern, - Acingr vl prriired . which gives piquancy 1o a p When Jehan de Bair »wed eternal The long. or pendant, €arring fidelity to his lady, she nded that woman with & short neck. The o be wear an emblem of at iment foned long crnament now meets with a On the first day of M which win Swile of a 1 from fashionable folk. To the Princess uable and beautiful earring other precious siones, and ing f Wales is ascribed the r»v' Hmn"‘;‘.\ }‘1 e <a you will of resturing this form of earring 3 p.‘» a gold bra sur left arm (g its former high estate. : and wear it for a year One should not call att>ntion to an un- - shapely ear by am mect, but the As to rings, many or ndne should be OWNer of a dainty seashell of an ear may worr 7 we.l set off Its charms by jeweied trink- ery. A round, black pearl, for exampld, in invisible setting very charming, t in shape, but don’t wear it 't wear any Kkind = enhanced by & blaze of of an earring—when posing for & photo- -0 5 D 8—A North to lead. An exquisite band requirhs no jewels, but the che £ ope less pef ers st and Waest 0. graph. North ne white hapg | \What 18 that lump on my car” indig- Trick ng w rald nantly demanued a pretty girl of the pho- : Phe et AT Lrnadtens s o as she stood studying her T {be dce n g g et g e P &4 2 it must of course be lost to him on the » sty lump? Why, that is your— Joe fivst round of spades. We think he shows ss clear in color. If worn in screw earring,” stammered 2d 95 80od judgment in underplaying here, his a ring of gold this stone will preserve apher. “They always take 2a ®Ac object belng twofold—frst, to put his ove fr m. “This virtue is not in the w0 3 - partger in the lead if possible, to enabl & y has been received as a gift. A gemmed girdie encircling the waist 13 *8h Ke Jd him to éxtract the trumps. since he Is v - " - arked with both ace and king; and se« Notth and South 7, East and West o 8 and West 6. o4 to more surely establish the dia- Trick 1—North's hand is not a Strong mcnd sul ore, and although trumps should be led Trick & trom the hand they shouid be led for the- ' benefit of south, provided he has a suit w gold band s much moie be- gives a patrician air. It also defines out- o the hand than a wide one. hines and makes a trim waist look even ps accounts for the present fad re eymmetrical. ding rings. The broad, solid band The final touch of grace to a woman's tcilette 18 @ long chain, or lavilllere, of coral, oxidized siiver, gold or gun metal. South can read the single queen of diamonds with west. North de- nied the n o s which can be brought in. It is therefore frick with. tne k';‘:‘;_n ;:m: r:n::‘:g e unwige to abandon the command of the four and the queen. N e trump sult before north knows anything . wr,?c'z.l nfl\m' be mexyfl‘;:g: IET?:; re- alout the contents of south's hand. For maining, and consequently south knows this reason, If for no other, a small rorth has the four and west the queen trume should be led. Tricks 7-13—South brings home hig dia- A Trick 3—We presume north hoped to monds, gives north four valuable dis- catch two trumps for one here. cards, makes the ace of spades, and the Trick 4-—-We thiuk east piays well here last trick goes to north’'s thirteent in not leading the heart 10. He knows teump. The gain on the overplay of th two trumps are against him. South has ctal is due to the proper handling of discarded a club, showing east that dia- trumps by north and the underplay by monds is south’'s best suit, in which efpst south at trick 3. Both plays teach im- holds a singleton. He may well hesitata portant lessons, well worth the student’ to deprive thle/lt of the power to Inter- attention. n we has been relegated 10 the realms of the ol place the “curtain ring” "y iy attached any ornament whica < e TN L) ¥ auit the wearer—a vinaigrette in odd This appeliation is derived from its simi- gesign, perhaps; a fish with quivering larity 10 & curtain ring. It s a fac simile scales: a miniature folding mirror, or a in miniature, of exceedingly slender pro- nette. portions and excessively thick in the The chiin which appeals to every girl eenter. {s the charm chain. It may be of gold or silver, As & rule, a lovely neck and shoulders The number of charms represent con- quests. The devoted - cavalier who is should be left to speak for themselves. .iu4ying grt in France sends a tiny Bre- Oddly enough, women with really fine (o sabot. This is hung on the chain; mecks have the idea that, by ornaments also the golden camel which comes from