The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, March 8, 1903, Page 15

. Lessons © Be Learned Fr the French Dressmakers W sh Examples Not CA e but of Absolute Economy in the Making of Their Best Summer Models— Mrs. Paget's Early Season Gowns and the Dresses That Are t e Seen at Newport— Dre of the Duchess of BY AUGUSTA PRESCOTT. wa s ur Paget, American eader of the King's set, gave the English ‘dressmaker esson in econom r m she is 3 Paget stint she ke a . 1 ess Mrs. M. Depew rn £ the skirt is i . 3 much_resemb w mme At the sides gown is made of awn, with - - tere e goods. The mater ms the sides and back fr rea i m re s. all cascades r e h flour headed nd e “ " s own of foamy pillow g expensive and be done by the s the great swirl- expensive affair, the the 1 at each si¢ simple affair, with f dotted mull dice and edged Kk velvet The French gown must have its touch black, for without black it is nothin erefore there are bands of black velvet® alling downw from the Waist line and trimming the bodice with its stripes of black velvet as well as the sleeves The light lawns, even of the washable ty, will make up weli In this way, ne need not line them, but one ca r o the nice taffeta underskirt a he nice taffeta corset cover to supply the ning e most charming lawn pgtticoats and corset covers can be purchased for wear r just such lawn gowns as these And the woman who goes in for chal- lies, the dimities, the musiins, the mull and the crisp effects can be pardoned a little extravagance in the matter of pur- chasing her underwear in pretty q It was Mrs. W started the becom elbow ruffles. But when v Reid’s ruffies vou will appreciate that there are ruffies and ruffles. Hers are not the thin variety that leave the arm bare. They are the light thougt thick ruffles. A finger and alf wide, one ruffle com- nade deta which is a very nic 1 In Black and White. Herma Irichs wears man k and white, and i with inexpensive lace, and tuckings and plaitings, are be the vogue for a lon trim s of tiny Very rming are the white and gray gowns. Indeed, there is mnothing that gives the impression of silvery immacu- and white lacy as thoroughly as do gray A the used together. Dhe best gra S are " THE MODEL SCHOOL HOUSE. Continued from Page Thirteen. we have a chance to watch these some extent and theofize about workers s ch us directly, and us L e matter of artificial lighting. . be gaslight s final conclusion. Working - al lig bad enough at best plls who attend evening school e w ef work during the a . ed the best conditions to a en accomplish as much as h ertake. Electric light is far more ving than gas is. Althoug rds do mot concern me, I important matter. paved with as- jons be looked after ses be better work of plenty are all to school school will nd yolls, Eherman Primiwy > pig boys want a handbal! court nd a gymnasiur om and a baseball court and punching bags and swings outdoors for them- They want punching bugs and swings in the attic for the girls The litie boys wanf{ a fence high enough 16 keep the big boys from bother- ing them The big girls want a maypole and a cooking class and a looking-glass. Everybody wants a nice library with plenty of books and pretty papering on the walls and lots of pictures and statues. “I want to have all the desks painted pink,” says a first-grader. “1 want to have all the blackboards painted green with pink lines,” says an- other. *] want a carpet on the floor.” “] want pious pictures and peacock feathers. “I want a doll ho a big one.” I want electric lights for when it gets dark on rainy days.” And the baby of them all sa in the girls’ yard— 1 want a great big pretty new flag to hang over George Washington’s picture.” VR By Miss Pauline Hart, Principal of the Jefferson Primary School. IGHT is what we want, more, far more light. It seems almost im- possible to get enough in our schoolrooms. We want enough sunshine todrive out all the germs and bring new life into the roowns. Every room can be given a sunny side, either east or south, if the matter is looked after in the planning of the building. Sunless rooms reduce the vitality of the occupants, Artificial heat cannot make up for what the sun can do. When vi- tality s reduced all kinds of diseases have a chance to set to work. Ventilation should be modern ana ecientific. In the old bulldings such as the Jefferson we have no means of ¥enti- Jating save by opening the windows. This is done at the top, but even so, there {s danger of a draught on somebody’s head. oyster grays and the silvery hues and the gray which one assoclates with Irish poplin. If the gown be of the durable sort it can be a mixture of gray brilliantine and white linen; and the French certainly do make up some delightful dresses out of these two inexpensive materials. A gown made for a very dressy New York woman and never yet displayed to the public has a many-gored skirt, fitted to the hips, with the upper half of the skirt made in Irish gray brilliantine. This lustrous cloth, hugging the hips and fitting the figure to a nicety, is dressy in its tone and of a sort that gives distine- tion to its wearer. The lower half of the skirt was white linen, trimmed with very large French knots, made out of gray working cotton. The linen was put on in a wide curve, but it was not in the form of a flounce. Com- ing down over it were long finger-like pieces of the brilliantine, which were ap- pliqued to the linen and bordered with a fine grade of gray soutache. The waist was in white linen, dotted with French knots and trimmed with a gray brilllantine collar and cuffs. There is a legend that brilliantine is one of those materials that can be depended “upon to “wash like cotton.” But certainly one would hesitate to put an elegantly made creattion in gray brilliantine and white linen through the tubbing proc There {2 only one thing to do, and that is outlined by a soclety girl, who says: “I wear my summer dresses untll they are stiff with sand and dirt; and then I send them to the cleaner.” A And this seems the only done. thing to be The Coming Parasol. The summer parasol, later, will come in with all its flummery, but now It is rather plain. It is more upon the umbrella order and suited to the April shower, which comes just the sdme whether it brings its May flowers or not. The shower umbrella,~frail though it may Igok, is warranted to stand a little wetting and one can depend upon it to protect the Easter hat, if not more. They take white umbrellas and strips them with black ribben to give the mag- pie umbrella. And nere, again, i1s a chance for the economical woman to have a French um- brella. Let her buy a silk umbrella in pale gray or in white. Then let her buy a little lace of the sort through which narrow black velvet can be run top and bottom. This lace is used to border the umbrella in twe rows. The' umbrella is now completely trimmed for the spring months. Later the insertion can be taken off and several deep ruffles of chiffon can be put on, with a chiffon rosette at the ferule and a chiffon bow on the handle. Every effort is made each spring to keep the parasol from becoming fluffy. But the fluffy parasol is so pretty with its rows of chiffon and its rows~of lace that wo- men will buy it, and, if they cannot get it ready made, you will find them_making it up for themselves. Even the striped parasol does not fill the bill, for an Au- gust afternoon, nor the umbrella that is all applique. The summer sun always plays most becomingly upon the ruffled sunshade. There will be a great vogue for the ap- the inside. The Raised Flower. There is to be a terrible hue and cry § Those ‘this summer for the raised flower. who want to get up something very pret- ty, though plain, can purchase a cheap lace and cut out the flowers, It is even more economical to purchase a wide lace insertion, all flowers, and to eut these flowers out of the late. They can then be appliqued to the gown and the.serans of lace can be utilized in the trimming of it. A putty-colored muslin, too inexpensi¥e td be counted among the nice dresses of the summer., was dotted with very small dots of black, cut, one by one, out of silk muslin. The dotting of the goods would have been an endless task but for the faot that the gown was made up first and the dots put ip afterward. It is question- able, though, if results just as good could not have been obtained from buying dotted goods to begin with. The owner of the dotted gown then bought two yards of wide lace insertion, “all a mass of acorns in bunches and acorn leaves. These she cut out as whole as possible and appliqued to the front of the gown.in. a wdy to make two rows of flowers down the front. * The bunches were o big that only three could be used at each side of the front. Then a row of them went around the head of the flounce and the smaller bits of lace, the left overs, were used to make a little trimming for the flounce. The waist, with its vest of shirred chiffon, was out- lined {n the same manner. Nothing quite as convenient can be placed in the summer wardrobe as a box of velvet knots. A Saratoga belle will take with her this summer a satin-lined box so large as to suggest a hatbox. It pliqued parasol, with the applique all on§ will be filled to the top with black velvet knots of all sizes and varie: In dressing one's self black knots very useful to outline a yoke, to trim an elbow sleeve, to dot the head of a flounce. to make little knots around the belt and the stock, and even to make panels for the skirt. The French, who are very clever with these little trimmings, make a point of providing black knots for every sowrn, and in the making of them they show great ingenuity. No two sets ever quite alike. Making a Linen Gown. Should you want a specially smart sum- mer gown for nice wear there is one that is copied from an imported model, but Is well within the means of any woman w the time to spare for its making The material is a deep leaf green linen as heavy as possible, and, if preferred one can use denim, or even the heavy dark green canvas. are But the goods shou not be of the transparent kind. The next step is the making o dress and this can be accomplished a plain lines. Let the skirt be of sweep length and let there be four tucks down the middle of the fron The waist can be one of the ever poy lar litte bolero waists, with Eton st gestions. It should have two w each side of the front wide below the elbow The s and end in a flare cuff. Now comes the artistic & iak 4he With a pair sclssors dressmaker must cut out little cir shamrock green linen and she must ap- plique them in groups of three to the en- tire gown hey need ot be AT together, but the little groups A rock, with the trileaf, must dot the gowr The last step is the embroidering in lig green cotton thread of a | gr stem to each bunch. The embroide must also go around the sham are i There vrinted and stamp fals that can be used for t m pose. But in this summer of hand-r goods one hesitates to mention the | ed stuffs Yet t And not only lovely, 1 F the life of you it a distance of three Zow is hand embroidered or js on delightful new printe af deftly that they show ve the embroidery which they imitate The Secret Is Its Finish. The secret of a Frencl finish. A French dressn to herself: “This is m Therefore, 1 will make it up 5 fashion.” ~ But she says: “This material is very cheap. Therefore, I will put all my time and all my skill into making it so beau- tiful that madame will feel as though she were wearing a real live creatidn.” And succeed she does, wonderfully -white raindrog ual thing to behold a challie which. retails here on bargaim days for a few cents made up in such fine n that the gown would bring $40 any day in a Fifth-avenue window, even without a yard of lace upon it. The rain drop sitks, with the rain drops distributed in little el . or pat on in wide bands, are much seen, and these make up exqui They need no other trimming than their own goods. And a little modest shirring, a deal of tucking. or a band or two of the same goods, is it all you can ask for them always effective, however, to add cdge of ntrasting color. and one border flounce of a black and silk with a band of straw- t is a c can the berry ¢ 1 ta, with the nicest of resuits. - There can also be a hip trim ming of the strawberry taffeta, and, of course, the blous have both sides of with the taffeta, a® its open fr will llar. How ynable It is going to be t X a mirror the trim- ming uy ne's gown. And how like six- ty it is to cost to have ambrel with e ned to match the ugh to drive the wo- and the men to t for it is te it in all its guises is e s cousin, the falconing v medieval acing, cla seed silk, in an ashes of with a smart gauntlet cuff one’s elbow and a Directoire coat s back. It need not be a rigid hat name, fof ywed. Duchess of Manchester Duchess of Manches Coat. fresh from ctoire in an a with pink turned A pink satir embroidered coat has its asp. And 1t ns down front cach button in at w ink ) he aces a be Irish lace, w g its revival and which ything, and renais- sance, which largely used over- dress 1 ak lace, which is a great revival of an old lace, and wh there wi h is just the thing for 1 be a great deal SRENCH COPTBING TION O~ CLOTH ANDLANE of filet lace worn and in the met laces there can be mentioned the darned laces, which are creeping into favor. The Rus- sian lace and the Itallan lace, differing widely, will also be' seen and the less ex- pensive of the point de Paris laces.