The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, March 8, 1903, Page 10

It Gives « Woman Flexible, Pliant Muscles and a Charm- ing Poise—Classic Forms of Toe-Tripping and the Cour- tesy—In Oliden Times the Whole History of Courtship Was Conteincd in the Minuet. re — " T. C. McClure.) E easiest and with most who have learned to dance - s ands, limbs, feet, all are sy rical and pliant; and mo. still a panaces sical ills One is ered h may turn in. In the dance the feétare turn Every mu h &= and Instepe is e ¢ fmbe, therefore, attain greater strength and elasticity; the whole X yves with more rreedom and ac- quires an added ease and grace h be too young to learn he te horean art. 1If a Is to b tr s ballet dancer she aken at 4 vears of age. The way the lit I3 isted In her teacher's b ery joint, from neck 10 s made flekible by exercise. The beck bend, the reserved crawl on the out- st ed hands feet, face upward " all go to make up the train- however, is only e amateur, who neing for the pleasure that as to improve her physi- tion, sh begin as early as poss but she need not despair, even in mature years, of acquiring, in @ degree the ease and grace which comes from pr cing the different steps. e wishes reduce & to too pro- nounced embonpolnt about the waist and h et her practice in the privacy of her room herself alone for teacher, some the following movements g ¢ ¥, rest the welight upon t and step forward on the right ith the knee bent, gradually the weight of the body from the e right foér and leg, lgaving the extended. Bend the body forward then straighten and throw it kward as the welght is again brought the left foot. Reverse the move- ng the shoulders perfectly still! erect and the head well poised the right foot forward, touching to the floor on & line directly in f the position from which it start- £t the foot up from the floor when moving it. The welght of the body must remain oh the stationary foot. The move- ment, of course, must alternate, first with the right, then with the left foot. Extend the foot at the side and touch lightly the side of the toe, stretching the instep as straight as possible, Keep the shoulders square and to the front, To develop the ankles and calves, rising o toes is excellent practice. Step forward with the right foot, as in walk- fug. Bring the left heel up beside the right, at the same time quickly rising on the toes ar wering the heels to posi- tion. Step forward with the left foot Br p the right foot, rise on the toes and lower the heel to position. Step backward with the right foot and draw the left fool beside right. Rise on the toes and lower the heels to position Make the same movements with the left foot leading. After Tising on the toes as high as pos sible put the heels down slowly, with the weight of the body remalning on the for ward part of the foot after the heels are lowered. Step forward with the right foot, with the knee bent. Without moving the foot, siaighten the knee and transfer the welght to the rear foot and hend the rear knee. Bway forward to the first.position, then to_the second, and so on, back and forth, ten to fifteen time % In bending for grace take the correct elanding position. Bend the hody for- ward, raise it, and curve first one arm and then the other above the head, or on a level with it. Lift the chest and then the head, with a graceful arching move- ment. This movement also insures an easy poise of the head and corrects any angular gestures. One acquires great flexibility, an im- pertant part in gracefulness, by this toe- ripping, or pas de seul. Soclety malds and matrons practice the step, sometimes taking instructions from a mistress of the ballet. “Not that we wish to learn the art of tripping gracefully on the point of one big toe, dear no!"” they assure you. “But we wigh to make our muscles pliant and flex- ible.” For this reason they also learn the skirt dance and the fandango, which are really classic forms of toe-tripping. The courtesy, or salutation, they must aiso learn. This is practiced to perfec- tion in the minuet, which is one continu- ous movement, from beginning to end, of the great art of bending and rising properly. It is this which makes it,one of the most charming and beautiful of dances—the ance of ceremony, of polite- ness, of chivalry, as it is called. Elegance must mark every movement, and each ‘turn of the head and every glance of thé eye has a subtie meaning. Indeed, It was sald, in olden times, that the history of courtship was contained in the mpinuet, from the first advance to the final ‘surrender in the low courtesy. The minuet is alway$ assoclated in our minds with lovely women in patch and wig. In 184, when powder went out of fashion, so did hoops and this stately dance Nor was it revived untfl 184, when Queen Victorla gave a costume ball in Buckingham Palace. The New York belle Is giving it a new vogue. So much, indeed, is the minud in THE SUNDAY favor with society folk that every de- butante is expected to know the dance, al- though it cannot be said, as formerly, that dancing the minuet is the ‘crucal test to a rosebud just entering society. Of the debutantes of this season, Miss Jean Reid, daughter of Mr. and Mrs Whitelaw Reid, s & charming minuet dancer. Other debutante devotees of this meas- ure are the great heiress, Miss May Goelet; Miss Nora Iselin, the Misses Gladys and Beatrice Mills, Miss Frede- rica Vanderbiit-Webb, Miss Alice Roose- velt and her cousin, Miss Dorothy Roose- velt; the Misses Evelyn and Jessie Sloane and Miss Marfon Fish, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Stuyvesant Fish To make the minuet courtesy, the right foot is carried about nine inches from the left foot and placed parallel to it, while the lady turns partly to her partner. Then the left foot is carried back to the rear of the right foot. At the same time the knees are bent and the body carried backward while executing the move- ments. The courtesy.is completed by the lady facing her partner. ‘When making a courtesy to a gentleman at the right, the first movement is made with the left foot. The movements, both bending and rising, are made slowly and with as stately a grace as one can com- mand. Another dance in, great favor in the smart salons iz the graceful pavane, an old measure revived for the sake of its pleturesque effects. It was much in Vogue in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries The men always wore swords—that was the time when & sword was part of a man and no more in his way than his right arm. The women wore long trains, to simulate the peacock’s tall. The word pavane is derived from pavo, & peacock. It is Emile Michelet, who, in épeaking of this old dance, adds: “It is necessary that those who dance it be endowed with beauty.” This is all easily arranged, for malds and matrons, arrayed In filmy, diaphanous ball gowns, are beautiful, and the men—it is the men above all who add the touch of picturesqueness to the scene, in caps adorned with long plumes, velvet capes, embroidered with gold and precious stones, and swords at thelr sides, like the gay cavallers of Louis XIV's time. Answers to Correspondents. Helen M.—To remove a double chin, massage it from under the center of the chin backward to the corner of the jaw- bone on each side. If the cheeks are pendulous below the cornars of the mouth rub them with a rotary motion from the chin toward the back of the head, round and round. Isabella.—You need not fear to use mut- ton tallow. Yes, I think you write a re- markably good, clear hand. It was a pleasure to read your letter, which was correct in every particular, including punctuation. Vivian.—For outstanding ears, much can be done in childhood, by bending them close to the.head every night. After one is grown, it is not easy to improve their appearance. It can do no harm, however, and may pé or some beneu:, bind them down every night, using a stout bandage. The hair must be arranged in such & way as to conceal them as much as possible. If the hair cannot be drawn over the ears, it can, at least, be puffed out back of them and also over them. For a thin' neck, massage with any good oil or cold cream and practice a few ex- ercises, such as bending the head over as far as posaible; then backward and turning the head as far sidewise as you can, firgt to the right and then to the left. Rita.—To make one’s face soft and white is not the work of a moment, as doubtless you realize. Don't wash it oftener than once a day. Use soap occasionally, not daily, and try to have rain water. Hard water yoon makes skin rough. Water can be softened by the addition of a pinch of powdered boxax, But this is drying to the #kin and shoul] not be used too fréquent- ly. Almond mefhis good to put on the face about/twice a week. Rub it well into the flesh. Oatmeal is less expensive and used in the bathing water is excellent. The oil keeps the skin smooth and soft. Fleur,de Lis.—The soap you mention is g00d; fone better. I cannot understand why it does not agree with your skin. You do not need soap on your face dail With warm water you can make it clean. Keep cold cream on your-toflet table and mw and then wipe the face off with a little. It will remove every particle of dust. ‘After using warm water, uniess you rinse with cold water, the skin will get rough and chapped in cold weather. For the occasional eruption on your fore- head upe very hot water. Dip cloths in water as hot as can be borne and hold on your face. Then apply a little cam- phor -ice. Romola.—You are quite right to draw the line at coloring your hair. It cer- tainly would look “horrid,”” as you say. To make your complexion lighter |s not a possible task, I fear, but you should try to avold unnecessary exposure. When going out in high winds In winter or in the sun In summer wear a vei], a brown veil, preferably, which is the best for the complexion. Take a ‘glass of hot water the first thing in the morning and the last thing at night. If you suffer from indigestion or bad assimilation of food, either of which gives a thick, muddy look to the skin, consult a physician. You neglected to inclose tire lock of hair. If vou will send it to me I will tell "you its tolor. Sarah E.—For perspiring feet, after bathing them always sponge off with water comtaining powdéred alum: about aalf a teaspoonful to oné quart of water. H. B.—The wrinkles about your eyes may be removed by massaging with al- mond ofl. Use a rotary motion, upward and outward, in massaging. If you think they are caused by nervousness, as you say, can you not try to cultivate a more quiet manner? Probably you frown and scowl and make all sorts of grimaces, which are wholly unnecesSary. Therefore, although only 17 years of age, you are “wrinkled llke a man of 50. Cuiltivate a quiet expression. This is mére important than an investment in almond oll. Lizzie—To increase the growth of eye- lashes, bath them with weak salt and water—about one-half teaspoonful salt to one cup water. Use warm water. This may be done daily. At night carefully rub on a little sweet oil. f your hair is so thin and dry that you are ashamed of it, rub sweet oll into the scalp once or twice 4 week. Give it a shampoo once a month, using the well-beaten yolk of an egg in tepid water. Dry with hot towe which give a gloss to the halr. You need a halr tonic-aiso. The following will help you Sulphate ‘of quinine............ 10 grains Jamaica rum. . 1 pint Sweet ol ....... .10z Ofl of bergamot. .10 drops. Use a little of this once a week Angelica.—No, dead white is not becom- ing to a pale woman. It makes her look paler still. A cream white should be chosen. Dead white becomes one who has a florid complexion, as it deadens the red color. For a short, stout woman not much trimming on thie bottom of the skirt is advisable; and the trimmings should run lengthwise. Howard.—For cold feet, soak them in hot water for ten minutes every night. After drying them, rub the soles with any equal mixture of alcohol and sweet oil. Put on a fresh pair of stockings daily and, once during the day, change the shoes. Also, practice standing on the toes. Stand on tiptoe, and then lower the body slowly until the feet are in nogmal position. Re peat several times. Ome cannot keep in perfect health unless the feet are warm “Head cool and feet warm may laugh at the doctor.” Alexis, Marie S.. A. V. J, Hattie and Constance.—A good brilliantine for d harsh hair is made By mixing We gether one ounce each of glycerin and bay rum, adding two ounces of clarified honey and four ounces spirits of w Rub a little well into the scalp once a week. A tonic to make the halr grow a prevent its falling out is made ounce of castor oil, half a j + rum and one dram A ides. A few be added to A tonic is used James H. T » strengthen the an a re ing position. 1 e back, with the right leg 1 eft knee. Ex tend the right foo g the toe down bl 2 cirele the toe as far from rig! Alternat poss nd from the same exe eft to right t. All the force that jed must be put into the s if best results are to be ob- tained. Be to exercise each foot the same of times. If inclined to toe in, th only outward. The Sep 18 8 hened by exercises Mabelle.—To make a rose cream for the hands put on a dish, which should be he two ounces pu il and beat it to a thick « an o st until it is adding a few drovs essence of rose. After rubbing a Htt this on the hands and well into the f wipe off that remains with a s cloth Ping Pong (for white hands)—You state that you wash i id “work that ft _white ha rinsing careful about and_drying them rougney. 't v itself will keep your hands from being rough. Each time wash them ruv in a good hand lotion his is as good a whitener as I know of Sweet and bicter mds blanched and pounded ir to juice, each 250 grams Lemon jufce % grams Sweet milk 30 grams Sweet almond oil % grams Brandy 180 grams It is barely possible that your corsets are too tight. That has = ed ten- dency to interfare with t ulation, and red hands are invariably the gesult. Another thing. do not wear tght foves They spofl the shape of the hands and give them that puffy, unpleasant aj Pearance (hat you are trying to get rid of. \J