The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, December 14, 1902, Page 31

THE SUNDAY CALL. 81 s which you t your Christmas your recipes have wn a dear old us in her ble bird, for savory giblet red dishes i not make sh water- of tiny em to you like 1 haven't glother's e over a dinner to id In this e of our by your 1 even you, the take a turn at the interests of geest for a simple, * he good one. Call > begin with. Singe ctit up in small den brown color. 2 galion of bouillon o & boil, skim well on, & carrot, a few sprig of thyme and a ing, “also seed tied up arly done put ice, two guod ce, one-half s will dp— llowing prep- this chicken soup. with one pint 3 the soup, r removing in the following manner: water six or seve an hour, then ely for a to make most sim- good and has tried Chef We e Richelieu, V. J. ut the same -natured man and glving away profes- s more Jewish than chef who under- of cooking but he d at a German s dinner, v eight people, I nk s t correct.”” he = rr £ his brain for something w a n h a small e shme 1 sweetbreads. patm f calves’ sweet- me k a half hour sweetbre e sliced onic tew whol reads and butter. to brown, se good sherry or good e to braise until nice end brow nd thoroughly cooked. Care [ 1ld be taken t they don’t become add small amount of Remove sweetbreads and It can be thickened ‘with sired. Garniture. for above: Mince one slice in butter until it be- one tablespoonful of and one-half pound of Braise slowly for a d\ stir constantly. Then th with on®-half cup of to- sufficient to cook, yet be t when done. Season to taste a few chopped mush- Parmesan cheese. , circle of rice filled and sauce poured over.” ould sound simpler. Yet when looks delicious, smells delicious erd tastes better. Doubtless Mr. Quar- turaro thought he wasn't giving away es much of a secret as I imagined him to be. Probably he was thinking that g00d cooks are born and not made, and that given & certain amount of ingredi- ents it requires peculiar intelligence to Liend them properly. Arthur Logan, chef at the St. Nicholas, has an idea all his own and he tells why it s & popular dish. He names it beef marrow on toast with fresh mushrooms. Beef Marrow and Mushrooms. “Take one quart of beef marrow, which has been standing in salted water for one hour, cut it in pieces about the size of a cube of sugar or a little larger. Par- boti in salted boiling water for one min- ute, water to boil briskly. Drain in a colander. Pick over carefully to remove any small bones or bloodstains. Now take some rich gra or brown sauce and boil it down well. If it is not rich enough & some meat glace or prepared beef ex- Cook a few small button mush- s in a pie plate with salt and pe d a little butter in‘a hot oven are almost done. Then pu: hrooms and the marrow in the gravy, adding j a le good, strong sherry. Skim careful any fat that s on top from the marrow and serve on tozst with a little chopped pars sprinkled over. “This,” he said, “is.one of my good dishes. Marrow - cooked In this manner is not as greasy as. when cooked piain or bzked on toast, and 1 find is preferred aud eaten by a great many people who would never eat marrow because they say it is too rich and too greasy. ¥. C. Smith of the Louvre, who has such a reputation with the German ciass of pecple who v him end think of their fatherland, gave a splendid recipe for mock venison. Here it is: “We_don't 'want to fool the peaple,” seid Mr. Smith, with a droll look, “but venison is difficult to obtain justat pres- ent. - 1 will give you a good supstitute for the same. “And defy you to tell the difference,” I added, half under my breath. Mr. Smith didn't say a word, but he looked volumes. Mock Venison. “Take a leg of lamb and rub well with salt. Place in an earthen jar with a few bay leaves, cloves, allspice and ‘whole peppers, one-half dozen of each. Cover with sour milk and whife wine in equal quantity and let remain in the pickle for about forty-eight Hours, when it will be ready for use. ‘Now place the leg of lamb in a sautoir (a low copper sauce- pan), with a mirepoix (a mixture of sliced vegetables). Pour a little melted butter over the lamb and place in the oven un- til slightly brown. Then take about/two cups of the pickle in which the lamb has been previously placed, and put in a saucepan with vegetables and lamb. Cover return- to theoven and let v, adding a littie white wine S0 that the pan does not get dry. When tender remove the lamb and add to the broth and vegetables one ladleful of to- mato sauce, one cup of sour Cream, sea- son with paprika, a little grated nutmeg and a little salt. Let this come to'a boil and pass through a ‘fine strainer. The salt should be slightly tart, and if not 2dd a tablespoonful of white wine vin- egar and serve very ‘hot. - The Sauce. it “The sauce is very simple,” he sald, glancing up a second. The ‘minute he said that 1 straightway made up my mind that it was not. When chefs say anything like that, I should advise tak- - ing with a few grains of salt and swal- lowing quickly. Take about six or eight celery knobs, pare and slice and wash well. Then place in a saucepan with a little 'salt, a pinch of paprika and also of sugar, ome ounce of butter and a very little water. Cover and cook slowly until tender. Then pass through a.fine colander and add a little sweet cream and serve with the lamb or Venison. Louis Fouringuier is to be found on the top floor of the Claus Spreckels buflding, either tucked aw in the San Francisco Club or looking over thingssin the Spreck- els rotisserie. Here iz what he. considers well worth sampling: Canapes of Mallard. Canapes of Mallard—Take the breasts of a mallard duck and cut in slices; drop them in a pan of minced bacon, redhot. Fry quickly so it keeps rare. Drain the bacon grease off. Add salt, pepper to taste and a dash or two of paprika, Bqueeze the juice of a lime. Pour in two spoonfuls of “fume of game.” Serve on canapes. Decorate the platter with “stuffed mushrooms” and leaves of curled parsiey. Serve it bot. Fume of Game. “Fume of game,” he kindly explains, is @ reduction of carcasses of guail; par- tridge or any other wild fowl that does not indulge in fish, lightly singed and liberally - seasoned, but not too strong. “Canapes” are slices of bread cut one-- flurd of an inch thick, In fancy shapes, - * with a slight hollow in-the center. Stuffed Fresh Mushrooms. Stuffed “Fresh Mushroois.—Skin and wash five mushrooms. of an even size. Preserve the umbrellas after they *are clean. Chop the stems fine with a couple of shallots,’ salt and pepper, little 'fine herbs: = Reéduce it in a saucepan, add a small quantity of fresh breadcrumbs and the yolk of an egg. Fill-the umbrellas, cover with fresh crumbs grated cheese ‘over-a little melted butter. Bake them moderately. Chef Hayes of the Bohemian Club gives a pet receipt: which he calls Mironton of Beef, Bohenilan Style. Mironton of Beef. Braise three onions sliced very fine in one-quarter of a pound of butter. When - the onions are'browned, add a tablespoon- ‘G'R[‘l’"' wRL. . ful of flour, stirring slowly until it be- comes a sauce. Then add parsley, tar- ragon and chevril chopped very+fine, also a pinch of chile peppers. Let it simmer about half an hour. Season with pepper, salt and a tablespoonful of vinegar. Cut the cooked beef in slices not too thick, pul on a platter that can go in the oven. Pour the sauce over the slices of beef, pcwder on ‘top with a few bread crumbs and bake in a hot oven. Evidently E. Arbogast, chef of the Pal- ace, finds pastry.more to-his taste,” for when my petition went in to him he was deep: in the mysteries of banqueét making. Still he good-naturedly took time to serib- ble off something for a pudding. Here it is: Pudding a la Sultan. Pudding a la Sultan.—Procure some very yellow and very fresh corn flour. Cook it in milk sweetened correctly with brown or coarse sugar, a small piece of cinna- mon and two mint leaves; as soon as the flour is cooked and while it still remains 2ll its heat add to it some slices of ba- nanas, then some dates cut also in slices and_the yolks of four eggs for each quart of pudding. . Set the pudding into a saucepan, then place into the oven, for thirty-five minutes. Leave unmolding, put Into a heater ahd pour over a small glassful of rum, ‘a glass of green tea es- sence, six 'anise seed, a mint leaf and + two spoonfuls of brown sugar. Heat thé sauce and moisten the pudding well with it before eating. No one seemed to think that turkey needed any particular explanation. ‘Per- .haps they thought everybody - ought - to know how to manipulate that bird, but the fact remains that just about one -out of every ten people has the art reduced to a sclence. The Turkey. Marcel. Magnan of the Cumberland helped mie out on this’score. Clean the turkey thoroughly and remove the sinews" from the legs by the. following ‘method. Take the foot of thesturkey-in your left hand, reverse stde up, cut the skin of the leg exactly. over the sinews, one long slit from the foot to the knuckle, then take each sinew separately, seven in all, and pull. You will ind that they will come out quite easily. Grate one loaf of ‘bread very finé, put in basin with one ;ound of good fresh pork sausage meat. ut. four ontons in boiling water and cook for ten minutes. Just before they are taken out:put in a small handful of sage leaves. for a minute.or two to take off the rawness. Remove from water, chop very fine and mix with breadcrumbs, sausige . meat, pinch of salt, pepper and nutmeg. Add three well beaten éggs’ and mix thoroughly. Rinse and dry one and a half or two pounds of ripe California olives q/e and mix with the stuffing. Care should de taken that the olives are evenly distribut- ed and that the turkey should not be too fuill. The surplus should be made in small balls and \fried for a garniture. Tie across breast of turkey two wide strips of fat salt pork, and while roasting baste often, and for a ten-pound turkey it will require about two hours’ roasting. As oysters are so much used Henry Becker of the Occident gave a recipe which may give the good housewifs a few pointers. This recips is made for ten people, Oysters. Select five dozen large Fastern oysters, open same on a deep shell, put a tea- spoonful of chilllenne sauce over each shell, besprinklé with a littls grated Par- jraesan. cheese, cracker dust and a little melted butter. Place them on a flat roasting pan; then put in a very hot oven for about four minutes, or until the oys- ters get a little color, then serve at once on g dish with a folded nmapkin. The sauce is made In this fashion. Boil to- gether two dozen ripe tomatoes, three small green peppers, one onfon: cut fine, half a.cup of good vinegar, one table- spoonful of salt, a teaspoonful each of ginger, allspice, cloves ~and cinnamon. Boll fifteen minutes, strain through a sleve and seal in glass bottles. The last person I asked’for a recipe was Plerre Montmayerier of Delmon~ ico’s:. He calls it Filet 2 la Royanom. Filet a la Royanom. Take a tenderloin of beef the thickness of .a thumb (about an inch) which you brofl. Chop up two eschalottes and boil it with hailf a glass of vinegar with estra- gon until there is nothing -left but the eschalottes. Take the yolks of two egss, quarter of a pound of butter without sait and a spoonful of fresh water. Put this in the above reduction .with another spoonful of water. Stir ‘well on a slow fire until it begins to thicken well. Add a tablespeonful of catsup, half a teaspoon- ful of Worcestershire sauce, a little salt and some red pepper. Beat well so the sauce won’t curdle and keep on the back of the stove- until ready to serve. Serve the beef with souffle very hdt.” Put the sauce in a bowl and serve after reaching the table. MADGE MOORE. ———————— Jéwelry can be beautifully cleaned by washing In soapsuds in which a few drops of spirits of ammonia are stirred, shaking off the water and laying in & box of dry sawdust, says the St. Louis Star. This method leaves no marks or scratches. $26¢ Salings of Great People. The prosperity of a country depends, not on the abundance of its revenues, nor on the strength of its fortifications, nor on the beauty of its public buildings, but It consists in the number of its cul- tivated citizens, in its men of education, enlightenment and character; here are to be found its true interest, its chief strength, its real power.—Martin Luther. Reverence is the chief joy and power of life—reverence for what is pure and bright in ur youth, for what is true and i n the age of others, for all that is us among the living, great among the dead, and marvelous in the power that cannot die.—Ruskin. As ships meet at sea, a moment to- gethen when words of greeting must be spoken, and then away into the deep, so men meet in this world; and I think we should cross no man’s path without hail- ing him, and, if he needs, giving him supplies.—Henry Ward Beecher. It is to you, ye workers, who do al~ ready work, and are as grown men, no- ble and honorable in a sort, that the whole world calls for new work and no- bleness. Subdue mutiny, discord, wide- spread despair, by manfulness, justice, mercy and wisdom.—Carlyle. Make sure that, however good you may Be, you have faults; that however dull you may be, you can find out what they wre; and that, however slight they may be, you would better make some patient effort to get quit of them.—Ruskin. Man forgets even to question about his own growth in goodness while he serves the souls connected with him and the great whole of humanity. — Phillips Brooks. Come, take that task of yours which you have been hesitating before and shrinking and walking around, and on this very day lift up and do it.—Phil- lips Brooks. The man who dces not love his country is not_only odious and detestabls in the public’eye, but there is a screw loose in the man himself.—John Morley. Be not satisfied with a superficial view of things, but penetrate into their matter and form and the end they were made for.—Marcus Aureflus. Man is, properly speaking,- based onm hope; he has no other possession but hepe; this world is emphatically the place of hope.—Carlyle. Only the brave know how to forgive; it is the most refined and generous pitch of virtue human nature can arrive at.— Sterne. ‘We reduce life to the pettiness of our daily living; we should exalt our living to the grandeur of life.—Phillips Brooks. The best use we can make of our life is to live so that we shall be a benediction to every one we meet.—J. R. Miller. If you would hit the target, aim a little above it. Every arrow that flies feels the attraction of earth.—Longfellow. He'is a wise man who wastes no energy on-pursuits for which he is not fitted.— Gladstone. If you will be cherished when you are old, be courtgous when you are young.— John Lyly. Anger falls aside and withers on the breast of peaceful love.—Tennyson. It's always something to know you've done the most you could.—Dickens. irie