The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, November 16, 1902, Page 7

P~ THE SUNDAY, CALL. < What She Wears, the Col- ors in Which She Gowns Her- self, the Way She Puts on Her Dresses, and the Remarkable Attitudes - Which She As- sumes, All Tend to Make Her Noticeable in This Season of Quaint Modes—Princess Eula- lie’s Paris Gown — Dresses With Chinese Tendencies. o + que lady is the woman would be more correct to say that she is the woman of the even- ing, for while she strives to be pic- turesque during the day, it Is only in the evening that she can wholly assume the role of statuetta, t so much the gown as the way she wears it, although both contribute 0 i bronze or the marble effect. the way she stands, the manner g. the attitude she takes, more than wll it is the very noticeable trick which she has learned of winding her skirts around her so that her figure stands forth almost as though undraped. The dressmaker assists the statuesque lady in her efforts to look like an antique, and it must certainly be sald that the two together succeed in getting up won- derful results e statuesque lady is a statue in her own home, In the evening, at dinner and on all occasions when she can put on what is called full dress. This dress can be described as filmy, clinging, usualy transparent, and certainly of the soft texture which can be made to wind itself around one. Satin is in, and brocades are very fash- fonable, but when & woman wants to 1aeke herself look like the piece of bronze upon the mantel, she does not choose a &own of satin or silk, or of brocaded ef- fects, but she takes something which will fall in and shape itseif 10 her own na- tural curves. She Who Dresses in Satin. Therefore the dinner hostess and the hostess of the evening s divided into two classes, the woman who gets herseif up in heavy effects and is modern, and the one who strives for transparencies and the soft, delicate lighis. And of the two it be said that the latter is in the cendency corded silk, grosgrain weaves, ottomans and substantial louisines are good for the debutante and for the dow- ager. The Gebutante wears them done in re ways and she chooses the little Tt directoire waist and the skirt of Watteau period. The dowager, on seeks the long bodice, ight front, and the unbroken Both look extremeiy well in these ks, and if you want to have ng which is a standby and wi.l you can seicct one of ing gown. for putting on for dinners and for occa- too grand, one can whicn will give toe the can be (repes, a goodly number. e de Per.s, crepine, the novelty crepes lacy stripes all v well. make yourself a gown ct something wh.ch is i r & under 50 cents per haps, and you can make it up upon 1 model worn recently by the Princcse Eu- who is the moat family of Spain and icst, had this. gowr d 5 frenes for it, get it up for aboul perhaps for $29 e hips and was uld be managed d Into the form wouid fit a bod ce. tinued to the knees, wes released a -little 80 the back and flared a though the front rly pronounced. The Eulalie Gown. trimming consisted of bands of close fit ‘was ¢ the skirt The upward from the bottom of the skirt there were eight bands of black velvet, and all were stitched to the skirt with white stitching. The underskirt played an important part in this gown, for it was made of knife-plaited blue chiffon with a full fril] around the foot, consisting of a double black chiffon ruching. This lay well out upon the floor and cascaded around the foot when the Princess walked. Many of the finest of dinner gowns are made completely of lace, whieh is worn over another color. Pale blue silk ani pale pink silk are not the favorite colors now for the lining of lace gowns, for the latest fad is to secure a demure shade. Moleskin brown, invisl' le blue, deep green and the family of reds are all used as linings to lace dresses. These demure colors show off the lace better than would light tones, and they really make a dressier gown. In the deep rich golden trowns there is 2 tint which looks extremely well under Renaissance, and the handsomest of dinner gowns have the skirt in a brown with the bere. lace somewhat matching in There is a lace which is almost a THE STATOESRUB and the sleeves have quaint preperties. The Chinese Influence. Chinese influences are seen upon many of the dinner gowns. While the sleeves are not strictly of the kimono order, nor is the collar exactly that of a kimono, ¢1ill there are certain tendencies toward Orientalism in the waist. The sleeves are very wide at the elbow and cut with what may be called a straight flaré, and some- times there is a collar with rolling lapels extending down the front, which has a 1ok very much on the Japanese order. And so with the Victorian influences. which seem to lend a certain distinction to many of the dinner gowns. You see (he peculiar skirt of the 1840 dress, and you note the sleeve with its flare and often with its fringe and tassels. It is not considered bad form or out of taste to combine the Japanese and the 1840 characteristics, and some of the most ef- Yective gowns are got up with combina- tions that would seem impossible on de- scription, but which look stunningly well as a whole. For the dinner gown the extreme low reck is not good, but the semi-<low neck, gomething on the Elizabethan fashion, while the V is very like the round neck, except that it has its point in the middle of the front, and in the middle of the back. Both of these styles cover the shoulders and are not so extremely decol- lete as the dance gown, which has the widest latitude in this respect. The Dinner Coat Sleeve. The sleeve of the dinner gown is quaint in every way. Perhaps its oddest form is seen in connectlon with the dinner coat, introduced by Mrs. Roosévelt last sea- son, and which has now become a great vogue. A dinner coat can be made loose or it can be made tight. One of the new din- ner coats is constructed of black lace. It fs fitted at thé belt and it has long coat tails, something llke a ‘man’s Prince Albert coat. The upper part Is also coat- shaped and is worn open in the front ani for this you might almost follow the smode! of a frock coat, fitting it in a little more at the beit line and providing it with a little roll of velvet over a belt. The sleeves are tight caps reaching not quite to the elbow. They are just as LADRY AT THE TH1S 1% THE WEY TO W IND TYTOOUOR & KIRNT ARO N Toum Fic o RE A o black velvet, which were fastened to the llowed to hang down. There six inches long. one in the front, two at each side and coffee color, yet which preserves the traits of Irish point. This lace is made up over brown and a little belt of brown panne velvet is worn with the gown. A stock of panne velvet finishes the waists or the neck that is cut In a wide V, s approved; also the old fashioned square neck, which has quife been revised, The square neck is square in the front and very high in the back of the neck, DINNER. TABLF— ©elose as they can be and are pulled down with difficulty over the dress sieeve. The dress sleeve falls in a big puff below the elbow and is made of chiffon or other light material. The whole s brought into a tight cuff at the wrist, If the sleeve of the dinner gown is short, then that of the coat may have a very wide sleeve, which is put-in at- the shoulder in side piaits. The side plaits are tucked as far as the elbow, when they flare in a very wide, full fan in this din- ner ccat sleeve. A lovely dinner gown, worn at the last reception given to the President on his Western tour, was made of black organ- die. The waist was cut on the shirt waist order, with a very full pouch in the front. The neck was cut te a deep V in the front and in the back and the sleeves were elbow length. A Bead:d Trimming, The skirt was absolutely tight fitting arcund the hips, with a very long, wicde train. To get.this wide fay effect in the train there was a bunch of side plait- fuge al the waist. These side plaitings Were continued almost to the very o+ & % So great has heen the de- mand for the first Inxtallment of “The Octopux,” published in ‘The Sunday C:il last Sunday, November 9, that edition is already nearly exhnusted. If you missed this first number, published last Sunday, apply for The Sunday Call of that date at once or you will be too 1at he Octopus” swas written by the lzte Frank Norri It is Mr. Norris’ siromgest novel: It has justly been consider- ed the nearest approach to the “great American novel” ever written. It portrays life and scenes in Californin more vividly than any other book extant. now running im The Call. No extra charge! And by this means you read the best noyel of the day—FREE!! . ground, when they suddenly were allowed to flare, making a full fan effect.: The distinctive feature of this gown was a trimming of black jet beads. - inter- spersed with bcads of white pearl, of apphire and of jacinth. These were rung in lengths and appliqued to the skirt. It looked very much as thougn the dressmaker had constructed a bead portiere and had decided to fasten it to tke -belt of the gown. The strings of beads were caught all the way down the skirt and they formed its oniy trimming. The waist was decorated in very much the same fashion and cie sleeves carried ., out the idea. Around the elbow there was a ruffie of black lace, which was embroidered in many colored threads. The ribbon rose takes its place in the decorations of the scason, and s6 natural is it, so delicately scented and so becom- ing, that really it rivals the rose of na- ture. Over the natural rose it has some advantages. It is of any color you de- sire and it keeps its freshness a great deal longer. ‘You can rtely upon a ribbon rose, and the same cannot be said of a rose of the garden. To Make a Ribbon Rose. To make one of these you select ribbon of the"color you desire, and if you are wise you will take a shade of moss rose pink. - Let the ribbon be of .the brightest satin and ahout three inches wide. Take it and lay it in folds. something like rib- bon loops, and gather them. together in your hand. » To be more specific, you take the rib- bon in your right hand and make a loop of it.- With the left hand you add loops one by one until you.have a bunch of them in your fingers. " Then you take a needle and thread and sew thess loops together at the base forming the calyx of the flower. Finallv vou ‘take a strip of green satin ribbon, one inchr wide, and Wwind it around the rose so as to make a hard foundation. Then you attach to this a rubber stem with a few artificial green leaves, which you ean buy at the milliner’s. For the center of your rose you will need to stuff out one of the loops so as to make a hard middle of natural propor- tions. If you will do this and carefully shape the loops with your fingers you will have no difficulty in making an artificial rose 80 natural as to look like the real. They make these roses in bunches, one big rose with two or three buds and sev- eral leaves. The stem s a delightful thing In green satin with French leaves attached to it, and the whole is fit to be worn upon my lady's bodiee. The scented crepe paper flowers are very good for the celffure, and they have the same advantage over the real as the silk flowers, namely, that they da not wilt. The Evening Coiffure. ‘The question of the coifture is one that must always come up with evening dress, for the reason that one depends for one's beauty so much upon the way one wears one's hair, The Japanese woman depends upon her quaint style, as does, though in a different way, the Spanish-woman with her curls and waves, - ~ 1t is quite definftely settled that the bair in the evening is to be worn low. It gives a more youthful appearance and sort of dresses up the neck and shoulders. If the hair be rolled over a “rat” at the back of the meck so as to make a low, full puff. and,if a curl be attached to 18 then you have the latest evening coiffure. If you do not want to do it in this way you can braid it in two wide braids and loop the braids at the top of the neck with a beautiful flat bow of blue Mberty, with a handsonde ornament in the middle. You are now ready to put on the even- ing hat, which is large and is worn a liftle back. The front of the hair, by the way, is'dressed pompadour and is fully waved.. The evening hat Is set back upon thiz pempadour .with the wave showing and it 1s pinned .with several large hat- pins se as to hold it very firmly on the head The stréamers, for there are stfeamers to this evening hat, fall over the low coiffure and dress up the neck and face very prettily. It 1s not absolutely necessary with a lew coiffure to have the streamer, because the back of ghe head s sufficlently dressed without.it; but the streamer adds s#o much that, while it is the style, the woman of taste would do well to follow it. If you want to wear flowers this winter you can do so. Tuke your. last.spring’s Easter hat and if it bad a high crown cut it out. Take the crown out of the hat until it i3 a crownless affair. Now take a handful of little flowers, choosing vio- lets, tiny pinks. hyacinths or butten roses, snd make a crown. Take a bunch of the same flowers and arrange them under ons side of the brim. iifting the brim a little to do this. Now supply yourself with two yards of liberty satin three inches wide. Loop it through the little flowers, all through the crown, and finally tle It at the back and let the ends hang. -Make a few locps so that the back seems fully trimmed. Flowers in the Snow. In all the best windows there are velvet hats, but there are also flower hats, and you need not think that you are rushing the season if you put on a flower hat with the snow flying. ‘The snow hat will be seen this winter. This is the white hat. It is made of white silk, white velvet, white fur and white felt, and the whole is put together into a charming picture creation, which recaives its final touch of beauty when the white ostrich feather is added to it. The colér scheme of the hat must be preserved. The hat is either matched to the hair or sharp'y contrasted tg it, and when a woman buys her hat she takes her hair along with her. She cannot go veiled, but she must be as elaborately eoiffured as though she were ready for & dinner. “‘Let me haye a good hat and I do not care about my gown,” is the Vienna woman's motto. And to this the French woman adds. “Leét me have nice boots also.” Certainly the hat is the feature of a woman's dress, for no matter how ele- gant may be her tailor-made gown, how richly liked with silk or how magnificent- ly supplied with buttons, all will be lest unless her hat has the finishing touches of beauty to make her complete. All hats are large. This does not mean that all hats are picture hats, for the pleture hat is understood te be immense. But it does mean that the general style of hat is larger than the hat of last year, and that the flat top prevails. Hats have a tendency of turning up in the coronet shapes, and there Is another style which turas up at the back and dips down over the eyes In front. The toque remains rather small; that is, the bonnet toque, and as only elderly women wear bonnets, they can take their choice of a tiny little flat or one of mod- erate size. But the big, old-fashioned bon~ Net Is not seen among the révivals. There is very little excuse for.the bon- net these days, for the toque, which is so rauch more becoming, can be made appro- priate to all ages, and the woman of % can just as well wear a toque of black peau de soie, made rourd and arranged in neat folds and finished with a dull jet ufnament as not. If she prefers the bon- net, with s cruel front, let her have sirings so arranged that they tle in a windmill bow under one ear, for this is tile latest bonnet tie, Remember, in selecting the winter hat, whether it be a toque or a coronet, or a Gainsborough, that you roust be cautious as to the shape. The hat that turns up in front forces a woman to-admit every year of her age, and it is better to select a mere kindly shape. A hat Is apt to thow every penny that ia spent upaen It, and the shabby hat will destroy . the smartest gown. ‘The made hat, the serge hat, the shaggy hat and the silk hat are all very much in and you will find that fancy favors the flat top. —_————————— The: number of pieces of separately as- sesssed real estate in New York is 486,640 this year—106,%02 in Manhattan, 39,147 m Queens, 52,005 in the Bronx, 23,768 in Rich~ mond and 204,828 in Brooklyn.