The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, November 16, 1902, Page 15

THE SUNDAY CALL.: N Miss Nellson's trousseau there are one hundred gowns, including blouse and shirt waist costumes and neglige. The bride of the fall must have a wedding dress and a going-away gown. She will need three room robes and she will want three dresses which she can wear when she returns, for luncheons and little “mornings” at home —the latest soclal fancy. She will want several street dresses of varying length, from the Sunday church gown to the more elaborate calling dress; and she positively must have a brocaded reception costume with long train and waist set with Oriental embroidery and lace emplecements. She will want 2 new Spanish bood for the theater, consisting of crepe, with stripes of lace alternating with the crepe, and with a little pastel embroidery set in. e will need & sewing gown made of au silk, with little fowers in it, yoke all of knitted lace appliqued silk -flowers, and the sleeves very g. She will want & silk shirt waist in pink taffeta to wear under this, and she must have three or four china silk with shirts to use as slips under the trans- parent waists when it is too cold for transparencies. In Miss Neilson’s Outfit. Miss Neilson boasts a great many hand- gome “lining” gowns. These are made of thin silk beautifully fitted. They are to be worn under cunvas and net lace dresscs and under the thinnest of the Loulsines. The thin silks are all made without lin- ings and the adjustable lining is em- ployed. This is a very economic move, though it is doubtful if it was done, is this case, for economy. Everything tends toward higher expen- ditures and that brides will be numerous this November and their gowns costly- is no dream. This does not mean that the bride with very little money need give it up as a bad job, for gowns are so constructed this year that the girl who has not a great deal to spend can make almost as good an appearance as the one who has money. Those French dressmakers with such at- tractive names are sending over gowns labeled with the magic term “Imported™ end “Made in France,” which carry with them a recommendation not to be con- veyed by an American house. Stifl, if you will examine these French creatons you will find that there is nothing so very re- markable about them, and if you will Tor THE BRIDE To EAR To THE, study the models displayed in your own city you will find that the gowns are every whit as attractive and just as cun- ningly designed as those that come from Paris. It is rank heresy to go back upon the French dressmakers; still the assertion that there are just- as good gowns to be bought in the United States as there are in Paris will stand investigation. The Wedding Dress. The imported gown, the bride's gown Im tended for November wear, is made of one of two materials; it is either extreme- ly thin, being of lace, or silk, lawn or tulle, or tissue, in which case it is made over silk, or it is constructed entirely of heavy brocade. One of the most magnificent bride's dresses of next November will be made of white satin brocade; with the brocade fig- ures all of the same shades as the ground- work. From a distance the figures are imperceptible, for they are not raised, but are woven in the satin. This material costs $20 a yard, and there are a great many yards in the gown, for it is of sweep length in front, while in the back there is a train as long as a court train. The court train will not be worn on brides’ dresses, for it is the train which is comes from the tack of the shoulders, and is fastened there in a Watteau pleat, and this kind of a train s never graceful. The bride, cannot turn at the altar and walk down the aisle with a train which comes from the back of her shoulders. The bride’s train, while it is very long, is attached to the back of the skirt and it has its starting point at the skirt band. The new train is the box-pleated train. The skirt itself is fitted across the front and over the hips. It hangs perfectly straight in the front and at the sides, and is a Gibson fit. Around the floor it flares but there is no flounce, the flare being managed by the method of cutting the skirt. At the back there is attached a big box pleat of the brocade satin—if it be made of brocade—and this falls to a length of from three to six feet, accord- ing to the bride's t: o cab: aste and her circum- A gown like this might of cloth of gold. for ftis 3 £lve as the Loulsine gold dresses: while it 100ks elegant, it is not always oy becoming as the thinner fabric. The Bride’s Thin Fabrics, The bride should consult dividual style of beauty in tg:rmmnzizi her gown; and while all brides are sup- posed to be pretty, the November bride in particular will find that she can soften her face and her figure by making her well be made ust as expen- gown of some of the beautiful new thin stuffs which are offered in such profu- sion and at such moderate prices. There 1s a white silk mull, which, while not ridiculously cheap, is still very moderate in price. It is white, and it does not take a great deal to make a gown. The lining can be of plain white taffeta, which is very inexpensive, or it can be of peau de soie, or.you can make a lining of white Watteau silk, and this is the very latest note from Parls. The lining in this case should be cut precisely as though it were the gown it- self. The walst should open in the back, and there should be the full pouch front falling over the front. The pouch is now so very fashionable that you must cater to this style of walst, and the baggy front appears not only on the every-day shirt waist, but on the dressy evening waist. To get this baggy front effect you must rely on the heart-shaped pad, which to wear with the bridal gown is about the size of a tea plate. It is cut pointed, just in the shape of a heart, and it is made of two pleces of white taffeta. The inter- lining is of cotton and sachet powder, and the pad Is one inch thick. It is bordered around the edge with a white satin rib- bon ruching, and if you wish to make the bride a dainty little present you can give her one of these dress pads with her ini- tial embroidered in white upon the front. s For the evening gowns they make these pads in pink and blue, and actually allow them to show through the gown. A Handsome Evening Dress. One of the handsomest of new eveplng dresses is made of white Irish lace of light texture—not the heavy knitted lace which is so coarse and hard to manage— and this lace, which is very thin, is not lined. Beneath it you can plainly see the big pink heart-shaped pad which is worn in the pouch of the waist, and on the pad there is a blg bow of ribbor. It has come to a strange pass when you must show your underwear, but you know that it is the style to do so. Women who would not have waltked down Fifth ave- nue for a fortune.five years ago in a transparent waist will now parade in one which plainly shows the neck and arms— yes, and the yoke—and more, too. The bride’s dress, if it be a thin one, has the pouch waist lining buttoned in the back. The skirt flareés around the foot and has a long train. Really she could leave off the outer thin covering and look al- most as nice. The outer. thin dress is trimmed around the foot with little ruf- fles two inches wide made of lace. For this there is nothing any nicer than Vilenciennes lace, which is delicate and 1ooks like real lace. Imitation Val comes at a very low price, and it takes an ex- pert to tell the difference. ‘In truth, the imitation laces are so good this year that no one knows the differ- ence except the one who pays for them, and in the matter of the trimming of the bride’s gown a little slelght of hand can be used. There Is no need of making this dress so very expensive, for no one looks at the dress. The bride is enveloped In.a veil of tulle, and the tulle veil nearly covers her cos- tume, so that she might as well dress cheaply as with expense, for the effect is precisely the same, o b The Spanish Ruffies. 3 The ruffles around the foot of her skirt 1T oF [JRIDAL p Iinezrre e I — i | | are put ‘én twelve deep, and they are set on in Spanish fashion. This fashion is one recently set by the Queen mother of Spain, who has greatly rejuvenated her youth and has-quite taken a new lease fashionable life. P L This lady wore at a bull fight tne other day a lovely thin gown trimmed with narrow ruffies which came down ‘to a ‘point in front, while in the back they were very high. To get this effect, you must add to the ruffles In the back, set- ting in an extra ruffle in such a way that it begins at the side seams, extends across the skirt and ends on the other side. In front there will be ten ruffles and in the back twenty, all narrow, all made of lace, and all very neatly sewed upon the gown. There is a new way of making the bride’s sleeve, and this is a tucked sleeve with the tuck extending from shoulder to thumb. Around the arm there are placed little ruchings of chiffon, banding the arm. Of course, the bride wears the big. bag- gy sleeves which are so fashionable, and she can wedr the pillow case sleeve, if she so desires. This sleeve is tight to the elbow. but a pillow case of thin material is attached to the elbow. It Is then gath- ered in at the walst. Of course, there is a big baggy fall be- low the arm. and this is_the sleeve which will be the fashienable sleeve of autumn, but the bride, who must never go to an extreme in dress, will probably not choose f{t. An Idea for the Bride. Tn making up her gown, the bride must look to the future: she must remember that she Is expected to wear this dress five years from now, and that at her tin wedding she must also put in an appear- ance in this gown, and, unless she wants to looK like an antediluvian. she will much prefer to have It constructed in such a way that it will do duty on family occasions as long as she cares to wear it. In bride’s thin materials there Is a sil- ver tissue which locks as though thin silver threads were woven In the white. This is called cloth of silver, and If you get it thin ‘enough It is very pretty; but you must not chocse the heavy cloth of silver, which 1s entirely too stiff for a bride’s dress, and locks more like a tap- estry. Silk tulle in white. silver white gauze, silk gauze, silk lawn, mull and the large family of chiffons are all used for bride’s dresses, and excellent they are for the purpose. Veiling, silk canvas, crépe de Paris and all the crepe de chines are good. In the heavy stuffs there Is panne silk, ‘which looks like velvet, and panne velvet which is velvet, and there is white lib- erty, than which nothing could be nicer. You can get a beautiful thin peau ds sole which is as soft as surah and which makes- up well; andfor this the bride will ind that she need not use very ex- pensive trimmings, for the material itself is so nice. The momentous question’ of a dress is one for the bride to personally settle, for really a bride can wear a perfectly plain gown, or she can wear one that is eiab- orate; but if she is not going to spend a great deal of money on ‘material she would better choose the ruffies and the, lace Insertion, the insets and the medal- lions that now come for the purpose and that cover a multitude of cheap sins. There are Persian trimmings all i white which look very well on the bride’s gown, and, if she be of an industrious turn of mind, she can take a white taffeta and embrotder it with white orchids and be altogether elegant. An Embroidered Dress. One of Miss Neilson's trousseau gowns will be a plain white taffeta embroidered in white pomegranates. The gown will be actually stiff with embroidery . and will be worn with a wide white Iberty sash tied in two loops in theé back with two very leng ends, the ends embroidered with pomegranaites. The bride’s veil depends on the bride’s family. If you have a piece of old family lace, you can speedily convert it into a bride’s vell. If the plece be very small it can be attached to the hat and the bride can wear two veils with the ruffle vell of tulle falling to the foot of the gown. Two' vells are very often worn, where the real lace veil is short, and the effect is really better than though the lace vell were the only one. Of course, the bride will go away on & wedding tour, and the making of the trav- eling gown is almost as momentous that of the bridal gown. When she steps forth she wants to look trim and nice, and not bear the earmarks of the wed- ding upon her; nor does she want to look plain. Just how fancy the traveling gown can be made is a question for her to decide. In England, where they do things &jffer- ently, the bride starts out on her wedding journey as an acknowledged bride, and she usually drésses in white. All' the royal girls wear white on their wedding journey and in the trousseau, and they have three -white traveling dresses, one a white cloth satin.faced tailor-made-gown; one white velling dress trimmed_with lace, and one fine white dress. In these three they go on the railway train, they go aboard the yacht, and they journey by coach, taking all the different stages of the wedding journey appro- priately gowned In white. Bride’s Coaching Hat. But the American bride sees fit to dis- guise herself and, though the deception is so glaring that It rarely deceives any- body. she gets herself up In dark colors and selects ideal robes for train and boat. There is a new.coaching coat which is now being worn by the bride. It is made of navy blue and it is so long that it falls right to the ground. It is double-breasted and it is buttoned with three big smoked pearl buttons, which are fastened with a cord, instead of a buttonhole. The bride’s sleeves are very full and are cut in pagoda fashion, which is imménse- ly big around the end, but tight at the shoulder. Three little capes, falling over each other, trim the shoulders in sailor collar fashion, and there is a_ stsnding collar. If properly made this whole busi- ness can be removed and worn without a coat. It makes a nice little shoulder cape and the bride will find it handy to wear with her tallored dress. In every bridal trousseau there must be lingerie, and the bride will probably make this for herself, as it is part of tradition that she should do so, but the bride of to- day gets off easy. There are so many in- . sertions and ready made trimmings and the ready-to-wear underwear is so nice that the bride who patiently: does every- thing by hand makes a mistake. The accepted corset cover now Is in.one plece with the long petticoat, and is worn over the corset. It is called a Princess petticoat.” Under the corset there is a bit of silk underwear, or some lisle thread, whichever the bride may prefer, and whichever she can afford. . The corset itself is something that de mands a great deal of attention, for core sets have changed the past few years. The latest corsets are not only straight im front, but straight in the back. and If the bride is fat she wonders what she is go- ing to do. Fat which was crowded back by the straight fronted corset is now crowded front by the straight-backed cope there is no room for it anywhere,