The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, October 26, 1902, Page 15

THE SUNDAY CALL. JTORT BACK VERY woman can have a good figure. If you are lacking in this do not look for sympathy, be- cause it is your own fault Perhaps some one is saying, all nonsen What are the ol thin to do? means all non- a2 woman under s too much any- trim figure, and g or lacing, either, if she t kind of a corset to t how to manipulate it. jes the secret of success. the clothes that make the wo- n was once popularily supposed, but the corset that makes her or ruins the othes I ther words, it is the woman inside tle corset that ma of her a grace- pleasing pic e. The straight-front corset is, above all, the one universally selected. hosen because if ‘t is properly laced it leaves the body free, and that i all of our healthy women t ve found a necessit row off the foul air ey d and one first and take in have found that their. thou- complaints that were a perpetual source of annoyance nd no end of doctor's bills have all anished as bogie men do with the first streaks of dawn. Sanakor is & new corset, as any wo- will know by merely looking at the tures. It certainly is mot particularly tty to look at, and it does not pre- to be, but it made its reputation by story to hear one woman te at she must buy a new stee napped her old one, or that she needs a heavy Interlining in her corset just over the hips, as the bones break #nd hurt her. Everybody s heard h tales Now most of that breaking comes from the corset on in the morning taken off at might. It is wiggle and squirm, bending pulling and tugging the he fray the corset is near- broken in two. where the greatest strain few people know or under- fact, probably few would s the object was ultimate- ¥ ing a corset on is not e hard or difficult matter and it takes ittle or no time, Certainly not as much does breathe and struggle and lose your br do it all over S sl ace vy about it. Le es you can get ir corsets. Do not be lazy them be just as far apart them. Then put them on ok. That posslbly s but it mean dressing., After i hoc ! n—just T ¥ can possibl Pull it down on the hips as w vwhere, tn fact, so that all t ble will ven t rder that v to 1 the ttle more as ne That not only gives space for a fresh whiff of air once in a while, which £ome women are commencing to consider recessary, but it also adds not a little the siender woman, while not making heavier sister uncomfortable. Draw the lower lace as tight as you se, only too much pressure is not althy, if that chances to mean any- ng to you. Even if it goes in one ear t the other, heed it ever so slight- for more than one woman bas had a i nose and all sorts of little blemishes annoy her, and from nothing else in this world than a corset that pressed at the wrong place. Make the very st as snug as you like. Then tie the but not in the back, nor yet around ist in the front. That makes knots, and if there is one thing more cordially hated than another s the enemy of a smooth-fitting frock. emall, insignificant-looking littla tow develops into a regular bunch that will disfigure the most faultless gown. g the laces to the side, all the time holding them snugly and, after fastening hem to your complete satisfaction, tack e ends under the side. There is. no ch and the troublesome ends are not bu always getting in the wrong place to your everlasting annoyance. The newest and best thing to wear in the line of petticoats is what is called is a soft silk that It is closel rsey. It nlike crape looks not woven, wash- WELL OFIEN. V. 2 4 PIIOQI‘ S AN J;(_.o/"vpm. AT ToR able and light, three excellent advantages for a skirt. The straight-front corset is the health- lest one, as whatever pressure there is comes on the hips, gnd leaves a woman’s greatest beauty—her chest—free. For that reason, if for no other, Sana- kor is a gem. It is upen two-thirds of the way to the walst, yet it rounds well over the bust. Instead of the regulation hook it has a soft ribbon that holds it together and it may be tied to suit the VALEN CIENNE-f TRIMM, _7HE e 2 "IE HOYE. JIIGHILY NG/ 72 Agn JIRATGHT CUNDED sweet will of the wearer. Opening the way they, do they give the appearance of being very full, whether one is or not, and as they are delight- fully soft and pliable the body is able to move gracefully and naturally, a thing utterly impossible in some of these tightly-laced, double-boned affairs that are an excuse for corsets but which are in reality nothing less than a vise. In putting the Sanakor on it is possible after fastening it to out one hand down under the abdomen and pull it up. Not enough to be uncomfortable, but enough to do away with tHat flesh which makes a big stomach and which everybody strives in vain to lose. Coming down about the hips and stom- ach to fit firmly and well makes it assist a poor figure not a little. This year it 1s not supposed to be fashionable to have any hips—and the rigid silk and - linen held in place by front and side garters does its share to comply with the rules of Dame Modish. The day has passed when it is consid- ered smart to have a small waist. In- stead a very small one is considered a sort of calamity—a thing to be avoided as much as possible. It is not natural and it certainly is nat healthy. -When the body is compressed into such a small space it presses the stomach down and pushes the chest up, while the corset is clasped about the waist line, where it is as uncomfortabie as it possibly can be. It causes indigestion, which means a red nose, no matter how much powder and cosmeties are put on; it means a gaspy breath and an abominable figure, not to mention a poor carriage, which is invariably the result of being cooped and cramped up. And after all it is not pretty. What men admire the most and what sensible women are striving for these days, is a combination that will capture worlds—smartness, but even before that, health—glowing health. The greatest cry about this corset Is that it is expensive. Terribly so, the majority of people are inclined to think. For instance, this particular ome is $35. But these same people are perfectly will- ing to pay a good price for a corset, buy all kinds and conditions ef pads and bus- tles and after all that pay a dressmaker to fill them out at exactly the proper angles. And what for? Why, to give them stunning figures, to be sure. Yet, if this corset is the correct size and put on properly it will do ex- actly the same thing and do it better than any modiste living can ever hope or dream of doing. 8o in the long run it is cheaper to pay a little more at the beginning and be well satisfled. It is worth the extra price to set your neighbors all guessing what magic you have got hold of, for noth- ing is noticed quicker than a clean figure, a smart carriage and a well fitting frock. 15 PROTCGRAPRHIQ POINTERS FOR AMATRURS B took up the subject last weelr in this column of lantern slide making by the contact method, where negatives to be reproduced were of the same size as the lantern slide plate, but the making of contact slides is by no means restricted to negatives of this description, as a por= tion of the view can be copied by contact even though the negative Is considerably lide plate. The against in e lant larger than principal dan copying a portion of a contact is breakage, a should be taken In c unnecessary risk In this direction. Where part of a ay 4 by 5 or even B by 7, Is to be contact, & printe ing frame 1 large enough to hold the silver printe ing, and after the negative as been care= fully cleaned and place n position In the frame the lantern slide plate must, In the dark room, placed In position on the the negative as described as to cover only that part of the ative which 1o desired in the slide. Attention mu the horizon line and to nes, such as trees, buildings, etc that the se- lected portion of t hen seen In not made the finished lanter: ridiculous by th wrong directions 3 out and ou well, before starting on w to loosen t tension ser of the prin so t ng frame on the g i break it, a additional coming only previous plate te the r light it s lirectly op< In exposing a lantern s flame of a gas bur .very essential that it be posite erpe ular to it so that y t may fall equally upon all T te. The distance at which eld from the burner should also be ly noted because the intensity of ght or ite action upon, the plate v s rding to the distance separat em. The amount of this v fon has been fig- ured out, with t f a neg: tive held at a distance two feet from & given light requires an exposure of four seconds, it would only one sec~ ond to give the same r eld at one= half the distance, or at twice the distance, or four fe exposure of six« teen seconds would ssary, the ac= tinic power vary nversely with the square of the distance. t is import t to note these points, as they will me on subsequent operations. In the development of lantern slide plates as many as a dozen or d n the same batch be found throughout action may little slower nning of the develop! As soon, h as the de- veloper begins to s akness to & marked degree it well to throw out one-half, filter thé remainder, and add to it the same quantity of leveloper without the bromide. batch of may then be dev and the n repeated, if The bromide shou where the old developer junction with the new and left out in the first instance when the de= veloper is freshly ed. The reason nrepa for this is that after the developer has been used for a while it collects more or less bromide from the plat that have been developed in it, which serves as a re- strainer, and affects the developer in the same way that the bromide is Intended to where it is prescribed as a part of the original developing solution.