The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, September 28, 1902, Page 7

THE SUNDAY CALL. FTER all the bue and cry about over-elaboration of summer finery e Fashion has gone to the r extreme. In the late autumn © outing models and early winter i she has brought forth some rare & s. To prove that she can make severity of outline and color and rimming becoming to a pretty face she has designed some truly unjque mil- s is art, true art, thougs. it may sound very disquieting to the plain girl. t study of the photo- graphs on this page ought to quickly con- n that it is not as for- ¥ est and simplest of the a s becoming to almost t has been given style own. It is not the sian model walking hat, with the deep front and back dip, which is shown in two different views on this page. It is of brown camel’s hair, and may be dupli- cated in blue or green. Camel’s halr and beaver, by the way, are the two fashion- able materials this year, and it is hard to tell which will finally gain the greater popularity. The low front and back dip is also & distinctive style that is sure to find great vogue, for the very sufficlent reason that while it makes a merely pretty girl look stunning, it transforms a plain girl into a positive beauty. The sghape of the hat is in itself strik- ing. It is dashing and at the same time daintfly feminine. Hard usage does not affect it, because the rougher the mate- rial becomes the most fashionable the hat. at the back of the crown. The ends are then inserted through the brim to form a fan shape beneath the low dip at the back of the head. These fan shape drapes are among the newest ideas in mfillinery flummery, while the lacing of the drape through the brim not only gives beauty and distinction to the hat, but renders it easy to retrim, be- sides giving the hat durability and a fixed shape, that is not easily crumpled and spolled by rough usage. The drapes may be renewed every day; at the pleas- ure of the wearer, with little time or trouble, and by lacing the brim tightly or ‘loosely the whole shape of the ‘“dip” itself may be altered just as easily and as effectively. Another novelty with the laced effect carried out in a different way is a small walking hat of tan beaver draped with 0dd drape and the fancy stitching of the brim of this turban make it quite fetch- ing over a piquant face. In sharp contrast to these two is the rough and ready” morning hats. They are just what the name implies. They are of coarse brown beaver, and the newest flexible forms may be crushed and crumpled and battered about and then smoothed out again into the most becoming bat imaginable by the simple addition of an outline of black velvet and a silk drape folded around the crown, laced through the back of the brim and caught there In any manner that best pleases the fancy of the wearer. The “rough and ready” has the added merit of looking equally well on any one. Perhaps, however, one of the prettiest importations shown at Roos Brothers’ is PHaoTOS Wwere so popular a few seasons ago, but equally fascinating. The difference is that it is higher but not so broad at the back as the Napo- leon, and not so regular and set in out- line as the Colonial, while combining the distinctive features of both, It is trimmed with & broad blue vel- vet drape, though the most becoming feature is the big iridescent cock feath- ers which are Inserted through the crown on the left side. This {s & hat which may be worn on dressy occasions as well as for outing jaunts and afternoon walks. Another unique creation of the rough and ready sort is.a tan beaver with a low crown and an extra wide brim with a broad black velvet band around the crown and an edging of the same ma- terial at the brim, which in turn {s caught up at the side with two inverted wings < 3 :snn"n.om NS SARIMMErY FElT LT Y TRIMMINS ¢ WINGS AND BL &<t Erack ans FIIa-E s the new flat turBan effect. The hat shown in the photograph of Miss Ines Bauer of Fischer's Theater on this page 1s a fine white beaver with & fancy stitched brim, trimmed with a big blue and white corded knot, on each side of wh bird wings shape themselve: the crown and just touch fes ne back. g circumstance that tion against the use hers .on women's swag- ger y that bird decorations should be all the rage this season. It is & fact nevertheless, and the fad is bound to grow In popularity while these pretty hued denizens of the air, the for- n the fields may be used in ways hat flatter the feminine vanity for gay plumage. Even for young girls, bir most popular trimmings. Or MURNING TrEAVE W ITH [MHSERTED SiL N FryseRTip VEL e PRAVE LOw <_aIgwn PEAYER fashion this year to sell duplicate styles, This particular “Parisian dip” has an a brown velvet band through white silk an Itallan Hussar model of gray felt. When turned around to the back this pins, at which few women are lacking off with a long quill, a bird, wing or In even in @ifferent colors, and apart from exceptionally low crush crown and wide insertions, the brown velvet passing It has a low crown and a wide brim tip hat may be quickly converted into a low in skill. Sy e -aven the wheid Bt sk brim, through which a fancy white silk through the silken loops and falling over tilted in a manner quite unlike the Na- ‘front and back *Parisian dip” by the Of a finer and altogether different or- But Dame Fflshic;n has decreed it l-n‘ re is the new Pari- drape is laced and tied in a broad bow the brim at the back in two lengths. The poleon or the Colonial, both of which sjmple manipulation of two or three der, though very much alike in shape, so it stands, this the matcrial ftself is unique. ple, th