The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, September 28, 1902, Page 2

THE SUNDAY CALL S{10e apids cut-out patterns are small, but in gooq taste. The newest shoes for boys are shaped in the sole, similar to those of the grown up man, and enamel, wh requires some care, is now made in boys’ shoes, as well as the new tan shoes that are to be worn all winter. The square, clodhopper shoe, the shape- less mitten, the hat that did net fit o head and the impossible trousers have ail been replaced by the most modern of everything for the boys’ wear. Nor are the new articles more costly than the old enes, But they are built upon more modern ideas and the boy de- rives the benefit, S cles for young peop long to be Hats for are to be large and trimmed with winter flowers. Big felts, caught up here or there, or = 3 flappy in the brim i on with wintergreen le s Dt showing a wide range af color. - ik The making of winter straws is also one of the novelties. Straw hats that will en- The Gowns and Kilts They dure th; [eathier. hats of tan-colored moss and hats of heavy rough 1 Wear and the Way They Are B e a oade il 4'7“&‘\’1’2’ (::mz Hatted so as to Be Present- er trimmings that will stand a snowstorm able to the Fashionable World. | And Jook HonextAS worsd. Take-the-soss As Sailors and as Knights | Pat, wet 1t and shake It out'and you Wil g . | Dress The?. ‘While fi;: LIXJG | Little Roosevelt Hats, Gf.rls in Picture Clothes Are" | The small hat for a child's wear will be Fit to Grace a Playground or an article hard ‘to find, for all of Dame | an Afternoon Tea—What Miss F"m&mh:z l«g‘(}fn:\llish e joward the | Marjorie Gould Wears and the ;)é::a.h! e ariety of hats Little Dresses of Victoria of L e Torith s fut op, to put on perfectly level as t. Germany and Others of High head, This hat has streamers and a jittia Degree—Mrs. Roosevelt’s New flat trlmx:l:ls Then t!:cn 18 the Egyptian bat, with its queer top Bnd. its “scant Dresses for Land and Sea. trimming of ribbon. & ; -5 ‘The Turkish fez % a hat to be worn by * HERE is one difference between the gowns of the little girl of the golden spoon and those of .~ her emall neighbor of moderate means. The fc rmer has her dresses built ndividvally and about each one there is some distinguishing fea- ture, some decided character, while the woman of average ambitions has no time for designing dresses. he ordinary run of child’s cloth- e little dresses might just as e off one piece of goods. Ex- ifter mei the color, perhaps, £ material, all the dresses are alike. “There is no great dis- n between them. (\e' in London, where they are begin- ring to do things in a great way, there are now dress designing establishments where all day long there sits an artist whose one and sole duty it is to get up plans for the gowns of little folk. His instructions are to make the dresses T and as varied as possible, but not all expensive. He can run through all the chromatic color scale and he can use every texture under the sun. But he must not select a style which calls for ma thaf are out of ‘proportion to This dress artist i old days and he brings forth neat little designs from the era. He has'good Watteaus = adapted the Gainsborough to 1 needs of his little clientele, he matter of making over the sai- t it is just the thing for are now made unlined and fall dresses will "tub just the same as summer dresses, Many of the best modistes in London, in Paris and in New York for that matter, now instruct their patrons in the art of laundering the gowns for children’s wear, and if there is a secret of white lead to set the color, and lukewarm water, of soap bark, and gasoline for the deepest splr:s, they will disclose it to those who as Queen Amelie’s Children. A woman who studied the fashions of young people is the beautiful Queen Ame- lie of Portugal. This lovely woman takes all the fashion journals in the country and reads the fashion columns of the newspapers. She has two boys to dress and that they are the meost stylish in Europe is her special pride. The future King of Portugal dresses mostly in white. He owns some very swell white silk suits, in knickers and blouse design, and his school suits are in wash silk; navy blue and white for sum- mer, and light cloth for winter. Queen- Amelie is said to have been the originator of a dress.suit for boys which (i& now considered the correct thing for boys to wear at dinner. It can be made both boys ‘and girls, apd this s a smail "hat, but.beyond this there is hardly a lit- tle hat to be found. The Turkish fez is/in great favor In the Roosevelt family, and “Master Kermit “owns one in Chinese red that is his prime joy. Archibald ‘occasionally wears a fez, and go does Miss Ethel. A ved sash or a black sash or a white one, according to the color of the fes, finishes up the cos- tume, which is often & very pl one and usually something that has seen the hard- ships of many washings. e Roosevelt ohudm are not mrrm of fashion by any m dress with great plunnu-h ou{n mth- i tute in colors they be very r-. Roosevelt herself brown enerally, and a little W suit is about ;er style. She wears a blaser brown serge and a close fitting brovn these days, with a white shirt walst trimmed :m-. bands of needlework running up and lown. A gult worn by Mrs. Rooseveit on the Mayflower when It lay ofl last month was a Davy cloth, rather h.l.v,. for the hy was “ld h|d .. ha -un um.“ umd lazer shape ‘ waist. It was caught at the breast ux: & very smart bow of navy blue satin sib- over a black silk drop skirt. The shirt waist was & white linen, made very smart witn embroidered dots in light Nllq as big as dimes, and scattered all over the walst. The hat was a navy blue rough straw, turned up at eath side and the back, where a bow of blue satin ribbon com- motted in a long knot at the back of the hat and then allowed to fly free to below the walst. A yachting suit wornt by the wife of the President, who plans her sea suits so that they will do on land also, was in black ladies’ cloth, very dressy. The skirt was very becomingly banded with black taf- feta put on as a strapping to the seams. There were many gores with the taffeta strapping, each in such a way that the bands of silk extended from the belt down to_the very flounce. There was a wide skirt flounce which widened in the back and was hemmed with taffeta This style, strictly conven- tional and not at all ult wag carried out in the coat, which was a Russian blouse, with the bag deep and full in front. They were strappings of taffeta and there wers taffeta lapels’ put on as flat stitched pieces. A shirt of red and blue checked silk en- livened this black suit. And underneath the black skirt fell a checked petticoat of ‘white cashmere and it is to be worn ls:g!ror kilts and are not yet in long trou- Ted and Biue gne(}kgdffl‘nhbd r- This suit is in thres parts, one part be- The first Jady. far from being an ove ing a lace blouse with Very full front and wardrobe and it is to be doubted if thers long: sleeves. is in_all Washington an official woman Over this-the boy Wears a white flan- who has fewer new gowns or who wears pel dinner coat, cut off after the fashion them longer. They are very well made of a Tuxedo and. buttoned at.the throat of dark colors and built for wear. Foi but Iying open the rest of the way. T evening Mrs. Roosevelt wears white near- neck ‘i trimmed ‘with 'a deep lace collar 1y always and of white dresses she has dressed woman, is very modest in her one fu. " __..e girls, but the skirt must be not too full if it is to accord with the present fashion, and most of tae fullness must be in the back. The Picture Child. There is the greatest amount of striving for picture effccts in the clothing that is now made for children to wear. Each lit- tle garment, be it for the boy of the fam- {ly or the girl, scems to have what may be called a motif back of it. There is a special de and after which’ is suit 1§ constructed. This de- sign is by no means a fantastic one, but is one that while very pretty is also very sensible. ‘Wash cashmere, wash flannel, washable serge and light cloth that has been shrunken and will tub are the favorites among the heavy materials. But there is more and more of a ten- éencfr to keep a child in the heavy cotton cheviots and in the thick madras cottons, [ all wash goods, as late as possible and to make the body comfortable by the addi- tion of voat or cloak as the winds begin to blow. As a matter of fact houses are well heated in winter and a child is almost warm enough in its summer wear. Many women do not now put their children into leavy flannels, but make up for -the lack of them bf’ long cloaks for street wear. The little girl's automobile and the boy’'s Kitchener coat will keep boy or girl warm on the stormiest days, and that is why you see so many light dresses shown for children just when you would lvok for the heaviest of wear. The un- iined dress, too, is the rule. No _more serisibly dressed child lives in Europe than the little Princess Victoria of Germany. This child, now 10 years old, lhas her dresses made for_ her in London .and Paris and shipped to her by a special iressenger, so it is said; and the: dress- makers whisper that carte blanche orders 10 make the dresses pretty and numerous are given from the Kaiser, whose one daughter is his pride. = A Royal Child’s Gowns. . The little Victoria wears a special kind of sailor collar which ‘has been named efter her and is called the Victorian sailor. It can be made out of any kind of both boye and girls he is an expert. There were se her Royal Highness, the Duche e, six or suits for her two little daugh Alexandra and Meaude, all different t and all of dif- and tne cufls.aie of turned back lace. The goodly number. pe gk o0ods, thick or thin, and it looks well in -lace frills. of the blouse fall : over the terent colors =ny color. It affords a fine example of Hands. Mrs. Roosevelt’s White. Dresses. Salior brown is as s as sailor the pretty and the sensible in a child's The trousers of this new and very fash- One of Mrs. Roosevelt's mewest white blue and navy blue by. Rus- dre ionable suit for boys are not gathered at (resses has a waist made on the shitt sian red makes a suit and I pretty because of its trimming and. the knee in bloomer style, but are cut oft Waist order. It is in a sllky lawn, which Freheh rpd. wh its shape, and sensible because it is dark. short just below the bend of the knee, in Closely resembles. from a distance. china kg at the neck and throat, where the child’s 'Knickeérbocker fashion. At the hips they SUK. but which really sets better, beins 5 A active chin rubs against it, and dark, are.very full. less “slinky” to the figure, and china silk used upon children’s clothing with chee ! tainly h: ful gitect, and as for mi ; m(; ‘r‘;r wg;ree n}:zewl;eg‘t"e!xal::p;lep%‘rl g'u collar is in fihe [ull hip cut; as fow seen in boys’ Ce'l‘:h-emw};ma:s o ?xa;vfihrpl?temg as the new el s gwesrin ate. they make PI2Y dress looked its name.. It.w, . outlandish and the cheapest of every-day in front. The back has also three plaits. ilow green and white. A wide white :Ie:; ’:\e“:‘e‘:g'; :"gi‘:? (?‘;0‘ YOUNgEr 80- ghirt waist patterns will permit, and at & 00d bands xeellont vora. TOugh and tumble and it looked it. Plain, ‘suits are daintily pretty in style. - Old This is lined, for it is to be worn as & cashmere saflor collar . covering ' the pted Jo bring In same point hetween the bust and the Stock it i3 good band d excellent cord- % g i ings and pir the gowns ; time ago, but i straight and even ugly, the child felt, . pictures afe copled with this {dea in mind, f8ll suit. A little turnover collar finishes shoulders, With a point coming -at each fictently to ‘iu‘.’.’l‘fl;’lflc'é‘zx““’ o8 $uf- cut off. That is the only way to describe bl & and rightly, that witen dressed in it she 3 the neck, and the cuffs are of the turn- shoulder, is the foundation part. Over the way the whole neck of the gow: ticeable feature about 1€ o e a atriped stag .-, Onoof thess drésses, Hullf for Miss Mar- o8 o variety, this falls a ‘collar of willow green cash- .. Shoes for House Wear. ghopped out, leaving great irregular scal- e f;'],""“ children " yo he might as well have been in. pris. ' J0Te Gould, daughter of. Mrs. * GEOrE® . wien- Misg Mariorle ' is very much HiSierthe same :,*;‘ °§v';“§,§?i§ a2 Jgep. For boys to wear fn the house thers are “K"Légfi’ér lace, tall and wired, with a hey will wask - ' d r WASH, AT~ on dress as far as her own feelings were Gould, fllustrates this well. The child, & dressed up she wears a wide black velvet el many bouse slippera, pumps and ties. The great we ty gowns @ braid. low cut deep lace collar attached to it, is now set There §s thing fo the up-to-date’ CONCEMDEA. girl of 11, 18 active and fond of play. Her 'be with this turquolse fannel dress, the _ 1aside of this 18 worn a chemisetts with “becoming. 10 Txf,l took: Aud e il tniey, In, the neck of the shirt waist and ol IRk ping o the up-to-date T e first note of “company” away DCWeSt lay suit, which is also @ school- belt fastened with a deep silver buckle in standing collar of willow green cashmiers sucde is liked by the boy. ' The petent [Laued In‘place. XS Walst fastens, ¢ e o e e T I e R o iTie b the HlaY i T e has a skirt of turquoise col- the middle of the back. Connecting with trimmed with five bands of white braid. leather Is too dressy a shoe for every AL Stock and all, down the back. e 2 the belt -are Lw IT¢ an tle girl very haj can experiment with setti a lace Fown; and, after the [ "VIR company drets she was bue. Ored flauel of smooth texture. ‘It comes e two narrow bands of sable ' To make' the little girl very happy a day wear, but just the shoe for dancing. vy B just below. her knees. that go over the shoulders and strap the small diagonal pocket can be set in the oy JoaTi. Dyt Just the shoe for dancing, neck after the fashion of the gown of i Boor- . 1o toned to be thoroughly uncomfortablé for- waist in_panel fashion, front and back. blouse apd out of this can peep a very b2 £ €T the first lady if you feel inclined. it ot h o pea ewermmote. i oo Dtiersii g r‘:a‘:’em:‘fly"m“:‘: The whole—belt and sable bands—can be fine lawn pocket handkerchiet made in °§1’fpp§§.af§§“fi‘,’,’,‘vm,y Sworn by the giiPS, STt I8 side plaited” It s in the s i 2, *. en off. the same colors as e collar. b an looking mor: dress should be Marjorie Gould’s Dresses. “round” skirts are generally made, Tts A very pretty bat belonging to this ~fhere is mothing about this dress that o il o :zleehfn‘r'e{rfeh:?rve’;z"{'."flfi'fll gyer Mke <hing eiik.- The side pia white, be it silk or Now the object of the recent improve- front hangs quite plain and it is almost YOung woman is a wide gray felt caught .will prevent the processes of the laundry impossible for. house wear, with its e Lo ficis, oL 0U mignt as we . the most service- mnents in children’s clothing is to furnish snug upon the hips, while the back is a UP at one side with a chou of black satin from being performed upon it, The trouble tension sole and its broad foe. e Do e, T e et e e newest gowns for children a child with a garment in which it can very little bit fuller ribbon. On top the wide ribbon with a with the washing process, when applied Boys' shoes resemble those bullt for Lheieh rom the fioor and a band of lace this w induige in Teasonable sports and still Togk. .. There is '8 walkt with this skist) cutiin. Loas Leavy. [Rce fallink avel it thiha the o WILIEL dreftes {sxa!h:tldmxet e o %o closcly. that the bas cannot. tell e ?‘?Stolfi?!cge}:; Slender, 1a partial thows whi & ; ks 5 : t . shrink while the outside holds its shape. slender, Now, there was a time when a child’s prettv. Even the nlay dresses are mot Oxford shape, With three narrow plaits The olatn skirted pattern Is a very nlce o Obviate (his Al). dresses Tor CHIIGreR. & The decorsied toe i fons father. = to sashes. and often wears a wide White The decorated toe is in favor and the silk one with fringed ends.