The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, September 7, 1902, Page 3

on the map in yourself with a of the Far West To both some cling to ir own ceuntry, ter to don the in almost any country ia we go first? Japan Good. o that country of cherry emples and see what we 2 half-block from ¥, 80 narrow that ce it, is a strange te of Japan. At down the al w steps will lead ) its fitted pleces design. At this no little curi- panese garden and tea huge brown rocks, which feathery in the wind, a tiny A number of fish and, last boy”'—the trade 1ess houses he old adage, the long run be lake has a windows, house, 10 , and take ican as to tments. Being desire served— han (dinner 1 the quaint never pour leaves; ed in the the delicate s preserves a are served and thor- n a large square zen T ced before each ins the entire din- nd is arranged with hich are not re- om the bowls as en. corner are the hand corner a n color, filled with which tastes slightly right corner is reserved f . or fried duck. Upper omelette, called kuchi- the tray invariably These trays me fixed laws American homes and knives. if perchance a fried fowl in the custom to the versa. = appearance, another ments, with vari appears in a Jap- ice and mulberry syrup serve as dessert. The dinner cen- cludes with more tea. The furnishing throughout this restaur- ant in Japan is, even to the quaint coke stove, true to their country, and here in the heart of the city, yet secluded spot, all the aristocratic Japangse hold their banquets Americans’ know of the w = place and very few are served with din-. ner even_upon application, even with the extra money, for as Aga Wa, ays, it is intended for hi§ alone, and the Ameri- at bother to the waiters, peak only their own language. posing we take a dinner in rkey. ou ever been there? It is not so : y down on Larkin street, near McAllister. A most conventional lo- et it is Turkey, con- in every detail, from the turbaned to the swarthy-visaged guests ir to tkis retreat to order a dish os a la Turk and to inhale the ke of the nargile with Ali Bab, resque proprietor. What a qhiasm ifference lies between these two na- Japan and Turkey. We have just 1o busy little Japs and_ their clean, furniture, _their sliding ic grounds and pure atmcs- severity and the daintiness contrast as we pass the gate of Turkey salutations from the the door. odor of a thousand per- subdued light, luxurious cushions, us drapes and people who in cation, to be sure, sisten LT TURKISkH Koort ST BA sy 8s CHINESE BANQUET half-recining attitudes are as much in contrast to the alert little brown men as are their surroundings. Nevertheless if you have a soul for color you will do well to have dinner here, for though you may not fancy little birds roasted in vine leav the ry and the varjety of sweetmeats, you will be sure to enjoy to the fullest extent the rich arrangement of light and shade, the harmony of old reds, dull blues and sage greens which brings joy to the esthetic Turk and puts to shame the glaring colors and tawdry trappings of some of the younger nations. The miniature Turkey which was im- ported for use at the World’s Fair has been brought here for decoration at this odd place. The walls and ceilings are en- tirely covered with draperies, upon which are designs, no two corresponding, ap- pliqued. The floors vield to foot pres- sure with soft toned rugs, embroldered squares cover the tables, upon which are invariably placed tiny coffee cups of ex- quisite daintiness, the omnipresent Turk- ish cigarette and pipes, for coffee and nicotine are life to the Turks. There are not so many of this country- men in San Francisco—perhaps not more than fifty altogether, counting the Ar- THE SUNDAY CALL. e TAGLE~ menians, yet All Babs to this fifty are liko the bear flag to the wandering Native Son—a spot to be cheered and clung to, for it represents home. So almost any evening a richly clad, turbaned group can be seen in the subdued candle light and incensed air of the place. The in- cense is perhaps the first thing that will attract the notice of an American. A sweet pungent smoke spirals and fills the air with clouds, which effect one like a mild intoxicant and brings wild curlosity of what is next to come. ‘We are seated at an alcove table, from which we can_watch the picturesque group In the larger dining hall. We are lucky enough to be entertained by the unconsclous guests who hold desultory conversation as they sip their fragrant cup. Have you ever seen or heard, I might say, a Turk drink coffee? He takes up the dainty cup and as the Italian eats soup, sips off the top with an audibla sound terminating in a smack, pictur- esque, but unmusical. Fascinated, we watched the animated picture, as they drink and smoke. But we have ordered a Turkish luncheon, so on a tabourette to the left a tray has been placed with an SIEXICAN DINNING Roort in Lesrrin arrangement eil’n!t. Pleces of breau und thin slices of cheese. We have cinnamon soup, & concoction of seasoned -meats rolled in vine leaves, garnished with rice and raisins. We pass over the Paklava pastry, the Kabobs and the fried disks of bread, but with great enjoyment we welcome the Rabat-la-Koum, the lumps of delight, Turkish sweetmeats and at last Turkish coffee—delicious, fragrant, a beverage to be remembered. The im. ported berry, which comes to this coun- try In airtight glass cases, is put into the individual grinders and the waiter grinds and makes the coffee before your eyes. He puts the berry in a tiny brass tube, turns the handie and out comes the coffee ground to the fineness of flour; this is placed in a silver pot, the alcohol lamp flares, the water boils. In three minutes the tiny cups are placed under the faucet and the fragrant amber-tinted fluid pours down. The pasty black sediment caused by grinding the coffee so fine is eaten with a spoon after the coffee has been drained off and is said to counteract all the poisonous effects of the beverage. Pipes, cigarettes, perfumed bowls of water and embroidered napkins are brought by an olive-skinned youth. Picturesque Turkey! We would fain bide awhile and watch the silver em- broidery of the walter's coat flash in the candle light, but we must up and on, for more Americans attracted to this for- eign world, however small, are walting tardthelr chicken pashia and stasisha colde. On the way to Italy we pass Jerusalem and stop a half-hour for matzos and sun- &y Kosher preparations; but this 1 only luncheon. The real meal is in Italy, and we have chosen that portion of the Latin ceuntry near the bay. The picture has changed; no seductive silken ' draperies and performed air here; no soft, cushiony rugs, no pictures of the Sultan’'s favorite, o mystery. nTheyfloor is sprinkled thickly with yel- low sawdust; the round tables are bars of napkin or cover; only the polished wood reflects the light. As we enter the low door our eyes In- voluntarily rest upon the row of shelves to the right, where there are loaves of bread in every design and varying shades of brown. Little breads, French loayes and great, round Italian bread with its hard-baked crusts; boxes of tagalerini, macaroni, spaghetti and a half-dozen oth- er varieties of paste occupy the shelves, together with the imported canned fish and meats, with their brass labels.. We begin to enumerate the variety of straw- covered bottles, when our_ attention is attracted to the chatter and scraping at the door. It is the lively conversation and the rubber boots of some fishermen, who have come for their evening meal. They inhale a deep breath of the garlic scented, steamy, greasy air, which issues in clouds from the kitchen. The -cooking place is so close that we can hear the meat sizzle on the grill, and the fish as it is popped into the hot oil. We forget the variety of odors in watching the bronzed, red-shirted groups along the side tables. Sons of Italy, who catcha da fish; stubby beards of three days’ growth half hide the soft skin of beautiful warm red- brown. Eyes—where do we see eyes like the Itallans’?—are shadowed by the slouch hats pulled rakishly down, and these are not removed for a mere thing like dinner. The red shirts open at the neck and are rolled up at the sleeves, showing more bronzed skin. High rubber boots, well filled, occupy 2all the space un- der the table. Oh, Italy! I verily belleve you are more picturesque than Turkey. Dlates of deliciously fat raviolia: mato tagalerini and the flaky fish, and watch Italy. They do not eat as we eat. Our wine is served in celente bottles, which have a cunning arrangement of an inner glass bulb to hold chopped ice; theirs is poured from thick white pitchers. Our salad is served on a plate, with a fork accom- panying it; theirs come on in a huge granite bowl, large enough to hold four TO JRPANESE FESTURANT. portions, and is eaten with the fingers, for none know better than the Italians thal a metal fork affects the delicate flavor of the leaf. How they do enjoy_ their stringy mgearoni, their gariic and their wine! he infectious chatter and laughter re- Store our appetite, which might other- wise fly before the mixed odors and greasy soups. France? No, France has been a part and parcel of our city so long that we all know a typical French dinner, so we skip this country and have a meal in Mexico. All who wish to dine in tnis land of sunshine must journey over to the Latin quarter. It is not far—both the Kearny and the Powell street cars land you there for 5 cents. Why, in San Francisco one can be quite a tourist for $1, and travel first coach all the time. Once in San Francisco’s Mexico, look about you and you will never recognize your own coun- try. Strings of chili peppers hang in the windows and at the doors of shops. Cans of chocolate, windows piled with brightly hued cascarones and a hundred and one strange and unfamiliar things crowd upon_ one's vision. Pretty, dark faces, half-hid by rebosos, peep curiously from quaint windows. You are in Mexico! L na's seems to be the most conspicuo place about, so into the door of Luna's we go and take seats in the back room, with its four tables, its long mirror and its tiny roof windows. A dinner of pep- pers—that is, almost. Individual water Jars, of rich brown with varnished glaze, that is so dear to the artist, are at each late. A pile of tamales, with yellow corn usks, form a pretty contrast to the brown platters upon which they are served. Little glass dishes of imported red peppers—a favorite relish—form an- other patch of color. We are amused by a smiling sits at the end table and sen glances In the direction of the pretty genorita, who with all her convent de- mureness still coquettes a bit with those eat limpid eyes, soft, like black velvet. g’xcardo. the rather handsome Mexican, 7 INTERIOR OF JAFPANESE RESTAURANT. lapkin over his arm, walks fn with nom- 6. Ricardo is much a part of as is the mea he has served enchilladas and chile con carne for almost fifteen years, has had his picture taken fourteen times and fourteen times has ed as hero in stories of Lunas al, the l?petlzet distilled from the huge cactl of Mexico, is followed by stuffed peppers, corn pancakes, called tortillas, enchilladas and frijoles and a Yariety of pepper hots, but of all the Mexican dishes there is nothing more ous to the American palate than chocolate. Lunas chocolate is fam- ous all’ over .the United States. Smooth, creamy, deliclous—cinnamon seasoned chocolate. In all the various ways of preparing the beverage there is nane to compare with this. The receipt? Nada —it & Becret well guarded. And then, too, the conserved lemon and pineapple i3 an un-American dainty, trans— !:ruu. Buf.and yellow. Truly it takes & tin dinper for color. No wonder these eountries turn out so many artists. China? ¥és, we can have a China dine mer.if ‘we 80 desire. Hang Fong Low's place en Dupont street is the Waldort- Astoria of Chinatown, and there the ost. epicurian palate can be pleased. ‘£gs fifty years old for the Celestial, and for the American—well, perhaps pre~ served ginger is the most appetizing. This typieal Chinese restaurant is three stories high; each floor the top being banquet hall is set with tablss, reserved for parties. The has Dbeautifully polished flcers; the walls are decorated with gilt i an arrangement over the coke :;mn. upon which are three artistic brass iccks half deflant as it peers out at the ests, Everything is spotlessly clean om ::}lar to garret. Carved ehony chairs sit in rows around the four sides of the room. Ebony stools are used for dining seats. A Chinese dinner consists of about sev- en courses, commencing with China rice Whigky. Pickled eggs, mustard pickles, lemons and a sort of transparent plum, together with nuts and sweetmeats, a placed on the tables before the guests rive. These dispensed, large china soup Bcoops are brought, followed by the soup; then comes an endless array of meats, chopped, hashed, roasted, fried, salt, sour, sweet. Shiny roast fowl, brilifantly col- ored meats of all kinds, then pastry. Dersert is preserved fruit, nuts, sweet- meats and tea—tea in dear little bowls. As we leave the richly furnished banquet hall and walk through the narrow pass- ege to the stairway we stop in admiration or the wierd picture framed by the kitch~ en walls. The flames burst through the crevices of the old range and surrounds in flllcflous red and brown shadows the wrinkled Chinese cook, who is vigorousiy stirring scmething in a huge brass pot; more brass caldrons cast reflections on the brown-stained walls that are tomed to a beautiful softness by time and smoke. What a feast for an artist is this Chinese kitchen. We have collected a valuable mental gallery to-day in this round of nations. After a Chinese dinner, if one so desires, long - cornucopia-shaped cigarettes are brought and a pull at the poppy may be had, for the outfits of nut oil lamp, pipes, matches and oplum are placed about on mat-covered cushions provided for the purpose. A balcony overlooks the street, and here amid the glant lanterns, the Chinese lilies and dwarf trees, one can stand and view the rows of roofs upon which busy Chinamen are attending to the fish dryinguin the sun, or watering their sky gardens of chrysanthemums. A glance at the street below sometimes discloses a pretty face looking through barred windows. Mystery! mystery! A Chinese orchestra sits on this balcony and the noise they make ta the American ear is not exactly the kind to soothe tired nerves, but then the Chinese think our American music is still in its infanecy, 80 we can shake hands on the subject an say tit for tat. Have you had novelty enough, or would you have a German meal, with covered steins of old brew and blue plates with frankfurter and sauerkraut? If you like such, just for a change, Germany is sit- vated on Turk street near Taylor. Then the Hungarians and Swiss have thelr ren- dezvous, but their cooking is so similar to the Italian and French that we will not stop, but hurry on to the Sunny South, & restaurant near Montgomery street. Here is possum and yams in season, cofn pone, watermelon and c-h-i-c-k-e-n—ah guess tha es. Chicken in all its beautiful variety. Fried, sah; botled, roasted, sah. How will yo' have yo’ chicken? ' This Southern restaurant has a colored stew- ard, colored waiters and colored custom- ers, and if the dishes served there do not tempt any one, that one must be & peptic. Real ole Southern dishes jes like mammy u to make, and corn ne— yes, baked on a pine shingle, if Rastus 80_orders. Dear to the Southern heart {s this little corner of the South, which adds its mite to_the nations of San Franeisco. We have gone the rounds of the nations —we have had every thing but Irish stew and baked beans, Yorkshire pudding and rare roasts, but then almost any restaur- ant here can cater to the English and American palate—and somehow after all the feasting we _unconsciousk hum “There is no place like home,” and search out a little American place and enjoy a quiet cup of tea, sans noise, sans wine, sans cigarettes, rfume and mix-u things—eans ;vjry r‘ll'xs but plain daintily serve merica. e HAR! ARNIRY QUESNE.