The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, September 7, 1902, Page 2

THE fUNDAY CALL trimmed w ing ov la Gains- o be adored, but, alas, oth the white ust be of t The greer style, velvet hat is very much in it is trimmed with bows of ue velvet, so with blue ers. T . g o rich fea is caric 1 ter of ever her under t from the deep gray, 50kS a 1 5 it did when it came bird, te , which no he dye pot « After the velvet hat in general demand the wonderful royal pur- feather ever had outside ‘comes the silk hat. This is made of taf- feta, laid tucks. And it is ma of liberty ked or corded, and ¥ ses it agiin in satin, very fnely lal folds e vears well and it goes nicely with any trimming that can be put upon it. The cioth bhat is one of the hats of the season, in ecru or biack, and you do see cloth hats in green The vell trimmed hat will be extremely modish, and every variety of new vell is geen. They take the vells now and twist them around rolis of tulle so that the fig- pres upon the veiling show plainly. The most elaborate lace vells are treated in this manner, and it is really remarkable to note the fineness of some of the lace that is now being converted into. veiling. Heirlooms in the shape of lace scarfs are twisted around rolls of crinoline as big as your arm, and the whole is put around the crown of the hat as an au- tumn trimming. A feature of the new hat that is coming i is size. The new fall hat gives a woman a great deal for her money, for it not only shades the forehead and the eves, bit it is wide at the side. And, turned up or turned down, it is a big hat. Many of the hats are confessedly round, with no attempt at shape. vTI\P green panne hats, trimmed with 2;} velvet and adorned with smart little gs, the hats for fall traveling and fv-v: fall wear in the streets. You cannot make a more judicious selec- tion than green and blue af this time, and and there is the assurance of the milliners that it will remain in fashion. Mrs. Peter Martin (formerly Oelrichs), who is showing her trousseau to all New- port, sported an automobile hat the other day remarkable for its prettiness. It set well forward upon Mrs. Martin's state- ly head, and the prevailing tones were ue and green, with a dash of red on the side, giving one the impression of the deep tones of autumn. This hat, which was a) made hat of blue, was trimmed with folds of green; a littie red was seen in the wings, which were massed at each eide pointing forward. The hat tipped down in front and up in the back, with wings crossed upon the hair. Tke Forward Tilt. The hat that is tipped forward is strug- gling to come in, but as yet it has not ar- rived with any great force. There is some- thing 50 severe about the hat that tips over the nose that fashion leaders do not like to give it countenance. It deprives a woman, for one thing, of all chance to look pretty as to her coiffure. She can- not wear her hair pompadour, and she cannot dress her forehead becomingly. ZAWES ARE THES STYLE All is hidden under the nose-tilted hat. The hat draped with lace, on the other hand, displays the hair nicely. It sets a little back and the lace falls over the forchead. The hat of this description is always lifted at one side, and that long, graceful sweep inseparable from the hat which is lifted at the side is seen. So it is safe to predict that the hat which tips forward will disappear as the season advances, though it is smart for early fall and looks well with a tailor- made gown. Hats that lift at the side are to be more and more popular. They are raised upon a bandeau, or they are simply lifted at, the side, and worn a little upon the side of the head. This sweep was made famous by the wonderfully graceful Gains- borough, and it is seen in this style or that constantly. The hats of Romney and the hats of Isabey all display this tendency. Romney, Isabey and Gainsborough all made them- selves famous by portraying the court hats of the day, and it is to them that the styles of the fall of 1902 must give thanks. The Velvet Hat. In the matter of side lifts the velvet hat particularly offers opportunities. The hat is lifted as to the brim, and the feath- ers are curled down over the lift. This arch of the feather is graceful, and the woman has a certain style to the top of her head. Take a hat and lift it at one side and curl a plume down over the side so that it touches the hair, and you will get the effect toward which the winter milliners are striving. The hang-down scarfs are to be worn and the first winter hats show these scarfs tralling very prettily. They are made of many materials and the big silk Low is seen at its post upon the back of the head. 3 The little flat-top round hat is liked for the street. Its top is thatched with au- tumn leaves and its sides are laden with lace drapery, while its back is made dec- orative with a bow falling upon the hair. DRAPING IHE HFAD S FOR THE THATRE IN ’, This round hat comes in many materfals violet and flower tops have disap) and for a woman who oG WIDow’s AT tops of velvet and sflk. The brim is .- row in the back. ways draped. One of the features of the new hats is the trimming of the brim. Not alone is the crown laden with ornaments in the shape of bows and- flowers, but the Lrim ftself gets its quota of trimming. This is laden with fold after fold of chif- fon, with masses of malin covered with laces. Or it is treated to an elaborate ostrich feather stood sidewise and very heavy and expensive, of course, in quality. The brim is also trimmed with ribbon put on in fancy shapes, loopings and twistings. The placing of the ostrich feather side- ways is quite a feature of new millinery, for the feather \is flattened out to show ite colors. . Ostrich feathers have departed from all resemblance to their previous state and it may be said that the departure is for the better. One feather in sun color shades gradually to brown. Then, sud- devly, in the midst of the shading there comes a wild dash of black; of the deep- est hue. In another part of the feather there Is a streak of white. The Ostrich Feather. Ostrich feathers, with the quill of white and the feather of black, are seen and white feathers with a black middle. Fea- thers that show one side \all black and the other side all white are among the commonest things in fashionable millin- ery. The demand for ostrich feathers has so increased that ostriches are fleeln;h. frighted to‘the woods and the prices have gone_up. These feathers, brought from d, the Boerland, now qost much more than ants a flat top but there are the leafy tops and the tops they once did, but 'those that you buy ~all, -who wears one t __________—__T_-_______.—————-——————————‘__—_- +___/_,__————‘+ It is very round and it is and by way of trim- mings there will be ostrich tips of more hues than eve¥ dazzled the ostrich—Mrs. Ed- win Gould’s handsome song | gowns which she wears fc{r her own musicales—The chic | light gray costumes of Miss | Adelaide ~ Randolph, _step- daughter of W. C. Whitney, and the fall hats' now blossom~ ing out upon the leaders of fashion. . — ’ tilted, By Augusta Prescott. sage better. N immed, but urden of fade and they stand hard Not only is the brim mueh trim i b the very outer edge has its L, e n Beauty, In the eariy hats of the cOming fall season you notce little gariands o very small leave: arranged around th er as to completely hats in such a man 0 O o i neircle them. This fan :he edge of the hat \”‘";l wfis éf-‘r§'§n£‘ v ¢ Mrs. O. H. P. Belmont, e et is built in tulle and steel beads. The trim flowers with the small- whole making & trimmed with tiny is a mass of tiny est of leaves, mr:‘d !thi v T the hat. “gg;x;thx?x?:m's favorite colors are nl::‘e; and she wears wonderful gowns, P e A of pink and partly of steel, the two ors being well combined. Mr. and Mrs. Edwin Gould ll'ed ot smartly dressed young people, anC their Bar Harbor cottage they WCFy many handsome articles of dress. 3 Gould is included in the category O well dressed persons because he is a.f‘ it so fitly attired. His style is English 27 he wears the short neat tweed sul the negligee shirt of the Englishman. Mrs. Gould’s Song Gown-! 58 noonday weddings the man o IOI,;D:IDW wears a short biue ll&):l m: military trousers, loo: around X lcn L. ~ with tunnel-shaped legs and Dbe! e His tie is black satin and his co turnover. m:lhrlt.u]ggwin Gould one of the {l}:rl; charmingly attired o ail 'omem.f ba- 4 pretty of of face and very sweet of FHCTT ner, she is-deservedly admired. ln‘ - which she wore a few evenings ago L% home musicale, at which she lar;ll' = charming expression, was & peav Lo g over blue, the whole mmmedkw i lace flounces of cream color. The skirt Wes o soft clinging aflalr with a deep FOUOCH caught by lttie rosettes of blus FIODOT The waist was trimmed with bands O cream lace, put on from the nec! X On.nd belt, with sleéves tucked at th DY.%. - trimmed with a flounce of lace at 5 The Wide Front. woman who waats to have h Bt e o, e e WIS goods, waisc and skirt and slesves &7 withoyt trusting to ‘chance bargains, pretiy modes upon which new goOwWI. :‘ne doub(l)e sted waist is very much seen, or ?l’ll':a—‘waxs( which gives you the wide double breasted lock; and it is well in making a gown to s‘udy these modes, for they are to be so very much the vogue this fall \%a.s(s that fasten in the back will be worn and in this connection it can be stated that, by the new way of cutting ana the buttoning of these waists with can find many to pattern her large buttons, the nuisance attending thege waisis is much abated. You can really button your own walst without s for assi nat buttons an e trusiing to your frier and, so, as the waist t back is pretty and becoming, ed vogue for it is predicted. Yet there are many an that fasten in front without visible means. And in making one’s fall gown it is a good thing to study these me ods, for they are intricate. The wide bust is absolutely required of all gowns ond the best dressed women are making an effort to get as full a bust as pos Remember it is not the high bust that is liked, but the low bust effect that is known as the military. To make themselves fuller In the chest women are wearing very neat littls heart-shaped pieces of silk about the size of a large saucer. The silk is cut just many walsts the shi of a heart and Is lined, Inter- lined and padded with .cotton until a large_heart-shaped pad Is obtained. This is finished around the edge with a little plaiting of ribbon and it is pinned on the frogt of the corset, outside, not in- side. us ‘@ swell is obtained without the discomfort of the pad. Hats Match the Skirt. A fancy noted upon the first skirts of fall is that they are not very abundantly trimaned. And there is another fancy, namely, that the skirt trimming matches the hat. It is rather unusual to see a skirt trimmed with lace to match the lace on the hat, but that is what you will see this autumn. And it Is a little odd 10 observe a skirt with bands of stitched silk to match similar silk upon the hat. The idea is to gain a completeness in attire and it is this generally complets effect which will mark the woman who is to be well dressed this fall. The hat has a strange feature this year, and this is that many of the very new styles are made to shift their trimming. It is'a fact that, with many of the new hats, two veils are sold, cre In blue, with green dots, and one in gray, with blue dots. In the lace drapes a still greater rangs is noticed and you observe a white lace drape and a black lace, one worn at dif- ferent times upon the same hat, and completely changing the hat. Not only In veils and drapes is this noticed, but in the feather arrangements, and it is not at all unusual to own & hat « whose trimming can be switched and another style put on. In this way you save mn)ne{, though it takes a little to_make the change. The hat which, somehow, makes you think of a grenadier is hers and the hat of the First Empire. Then there is the hat of the commune and the hat which bears a resemblance to the Rough Rider of to:day. While a certain severity marks these military hats, be they Rough Rider, L’Aiglons or tri-corners, tfere is alse a certain neat beauty. One feels trim In them; and when it comes to draping them with Roman drapes the chief obstacle to their use is removed, for they certainly do look feminine. The Persian Scarfs. The Roman drapes come this season in deep. red and dark blue, and the two col- ors look very fine with their white back- Tound. Of course there is a dash of yel- ow somewhere and a little purple, for these colors creep into all Roman looms. The Persian scarfs are very fine and their finish is satiny and rich. They come in heavy weights and afford a very nice trimming for the hat, be it military or otherwise. The military hat needs only its drapery of Roman silk, though it can be given a quill or two if height is de- sired. The boat shapes that roll up in front need nothing in the way of height. The floppy brim for fall comes in fine straw, very wide in front and rather nar- The back is pressed down upon the hair and trfmmed with a mass of fall leaves, with a few black vel- vet ends hanging from the leaves. Tha front is trimmed with leaves with blaci 4 velvet loops In the leaves. Bands of black velvet go around the hat. One of the wide floppy brims wag bent down at one side and the trimming, w! consisted of French rosettes, was set well down upon the brim, in masses of velvet. A hat that was worn by one of the prettiest of Saratoga’s belles has the front turned up and the side also turned up, both curving upward and backward in the true boat shape. At the very back there was a bunch’of ribbon loops. On the crown of the hat were set a few short ostrich tips and these fell forward gver the tall brim. To get the effect of this you ean make a_funnel of paper gradually widening out. Set it upon your head and over the top, falling forward, let curl a few little plumes. These are caught upon the crown of the hat. In such crude ways the style of a hat may be ascertained and its becoming qualities determined. One of the New York milliners makes a point of construct- ing her hat of wire and paper, so as to see if they will be becoming to the cus- tomer before cutting Into the mora ex- pensive fabrics . of laca and veivet, of figured silk_and dotted tulle. rs. C. P. Huntington wears a very handsome white hat, with top covered with tiny white flowers. A lace scarf in black, with embroidered white fSowers is so draped around the brim that the edge of the lace falls over the:eyes and the top is quite covered with the lace. The streamers at the back are long and heave it is the best thing of the season. The made.of small ribbon bows, as well as are of much better quality. Thaw 4= Zii ily embroidered in white flowers,