The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, August 24, 1902, Page 13

THE SUNDAY CALL. Jome. ARE. BEAUTIEUL Bbs NATURE. BuT THEJVE ARE. NeverR NEGLECTEVL OF THEIR GIETY es delicate and pink as a gar- n rose makes even a homely woman attractive, partly because it announces to the world at large that the owner is both well an¢ happy. l owever, a skin of ordinary appearanc\ be vastly improved by a little care, d when it is possible to materially bet- r this feature of lovely woman it is a to be regretted that not more 1 are seen. f course, hes much to do with texture of the skin, but even nditions of this kind a be done by very simple ve and beautify rather or- omplexions. eally no other feminine.charm ent as the care, 1s mer—perhaps you have ob- n gains an extra r and delicacy of tint, and t day should be considered in the ine benefit, for the exces- ngs a dripping per- opens the pores ntless impurities becomes more transparent, the the coloring seems skir xture softer and y nature is more during the hot the more sensitive to 4 and sudden climatic son it behooves the summer to lavish greater care and an ever on her pretty face, improve its natural ap preserve the freshness acteristic. nothing s so valuable improver as cleanli- be too indefatigable fresh water. be thoroughly cleansed, morning, as well as at 1 the usual dust and mer make this necessary the number of times for e should be limited is ab- would be equaily fos sther extreme and use water > frequently. s sleep the skin needs in- 'd for this purpose wash it ds for about five or ten min- after getting up. It is best to use water at has the chill take: 4 ugh there are some persons who main- water gives a vigor to the skin that keeps it ing into wrinkles. riction should be avoided, and after “spatting” the face with the hands very gently for about ten minutes the skin should be pressed dry with a soft towel. By no means should the eyes be neg- lected, for at night there is likely to be st collected in the corners and on the hes, while in the morning the latter ere frequently matted and the corners clogged with humors. Use cold water instead of warm for washing these features, for this is bene- ficiel to the eyes themselves, and when bathing them rub the fingers gently to- -4 ward the inner corners. An excellent ald in keeping the skin thoroughly clean is a soft face brush. The bristles should not be stiff and this use- ful tollet article should be wielded with discretion, for it is a very easy matter to make the skin peel off as the result of a too vigorous scrubbing. A good soap, an almond or an oatmeal varzety rubbed into a lather, is all one needs in conjunction with the soft face brush. for few forelgn particles can withstand this treatment. When the face has been thoroughly cleansed in this manner, it is naturally in a rather sensitive condition, and it shouid be pressed dry with a towel and then treated to an application of cold cream. This should be allowed to stay on if it is applied at night, but if it is rubbed on in the morning to soothe the face after the scrubbing, then the cream v be wiped off with a soft towel and the skin dusted with a good talcum or rice powder. How to Use Cold Cream. There is no better all round skin appli- cation than cold cream. This soothes a sun-burned face and softens a chapped one, while it reduces irritation from other ca By all means, choose a pure cream, and if you prefer to make your own in order to know exactly what are the ingredients, here is a cream that may be recommend- ed: One-half ounce white wax, one-half ounce spermaceti, one-eighth pint oil sweet almonds. Pour these into a mortar that has been heated by immersing in a bowl of hot water, and then add, drop by drop, three ounces of violet water. Stir these together until they become the con- of sistency of a paste and pour into wide mouthed jars. This will be found a very cooling cream and not disagreeably gre Almonds, both bitter and sweet, are ex- cellent in skin preparations and for whit- ening and softening the skin; also for re- moving sunburn. Here is a genuinely good concoction that is e ¥y made, Take one ounce of sweet almonds and blanch them. Beat them Into a smooth paste. Then add gradually, a half pint of distilled water. Th a milk of almonds at will keep the skin from burning and will preserve it from drying and cracking in the wind. The following paste will be found very beneficial and pleasant to us: Almond past rose water, one pint; tincture of benzoin, one ounce. Sunburn is comparatively easy to deal with and nbwadays it is not considered ia TosED BY Misg ParT OF A WOMANY BEAUTSY DEPENDS C)'Er HER PPETTILY ARCHED EVE - Protos By Vicus & ForeD B‘QKNJ J HDPKD/y‘ GOOD AL CUTT PowDER DusTED OVELR THEL Face, Hewps To KEEP IT SOFT. O Iy .)\nrmmua.b EXCELLENT ReTL 13 = 1eF e To MO1STEN WTITH A COULING _LOTIOR simply preparea, n s « g00a idea to mix on own face powder. Violet powders are the favorite with the fair and either rice or talcum are perfectly harmless when used discreetlv. Instead of hurting the skin, they render it smooth and soft and keep it so. Simple Fowder Mixture. Good rice starch, to which is added fine- 1y powdered orris root or violet, is as sim- ple and at the same time satisfactory as one could desire, while a more complicated mixture may be made with the following: One pound finely powdered starch of fa- rina, one-half ounce finely powdered orris root, ten drops essence of ambergris and two ounces cil of rhodium. The lips should not be neglected and a . healing salve, pink tinted and fragrant, may be put on when going out In a high wind. There Is nothing so painful as cracked lips, and even with no wind the sun, If it is extremely bright, Is apt to blister a pretty cupid’s bow. f course, an active young woman who enjoys all manner of out of door sports cannot be expected to keep herself housed and forego these delightful pleasures all because she may ruin her complexion, so the best thing for her to do is to take the necessary precaution that is, in her case. AP AND A SOTT BRUSH i the light of a disfigurement, On the con- trary, the rich deep brown shade to which it sometimes turns gives an added charm to a pretty face, and is evidence of a gay summer spent out of doors. However, the burning is apt to prove painful, and it is well to be prepared with a lotion of cream to allay the tingling pain. Lemons are a general favorite among toilet accessories, and the juice will re- move tan about as well as anything known to mankind. Besides, a little of the juice will keep the nails in good condi- tion and get rid of almost any kind of stain. Freckles, on the contrary, are exasper- ating brown spots and every woman who has them would do much to rid herself of the disfigurement. UJSF CeLD CrEam To CHMOVE DusT lr Toe » A Pewvc Those that stay season after season are almost beyond reduction, but the lighter variety, the summer freckles, will d p- pear under a treatment with the follow- ing: One-half dram citrone olntment, one-half dram oil of almonds, three- eighths ounce spermaceti ointment; violet water, a few drops to moisten. This should be well mixed In a mortar with a bone paddle. Freckle and sunburn ointments should EvesrRowy ArE NoT WeLt MARKED Tn WiLL [IMPROVE:s THEIR APPEARANCE be applied at night, but if one were to e a little discretion in protecting the face during the day these dark marks could be kept away, at least to a very great de- gree. For instance, in the morning, or at any time of the day for that matter, before starting out in the scorchng wind or sun, it would be well to prepare the delicate skin for these trying orceals. It should be rubbed with cold cream and then wipcd ag ciean as It 1= possible to get it, after which a powder should be rubbed into the pores, and in this way is formed a barrier through which the strong rays of the sun or a stiff breeze can with difi- culty break. The great trouble with powders one buys s that they are apt not to be fresh, and that they should be so 1s absolutely essential. For this reason, and since they are so BXCELLENT FOR CLEANJ'ING THE J'KLN™~ h) i worth pounds of cure. ‘With her skin carefully attended to and ready to e all kinds of weather, she should bestow a little attention upon some of her attractive features. The eyebrows, for instance, recuirs a gentle brushing and for this purpose there is a Ilittle brush with soft and short bristles. By using this implement the arch may be better defined, if it is not strongly marked, while the brushing, besides, im- proves the tone and texture of each tiny hair. Since much of the character of the face depends upon the delicacy and arch of the eyebrows it is permissible—in fact, a decided improvement—to use just a tiny bit of coloring. — New terrors will be added to life, in the Interest of health, if the experiment om which John MecGraw Woodbury, New York Commissioner of Street Cleaning, is engaged shall prove successtul. The Com- missioner, with a view to locating mi- crobes, and thereby removing their cause, so far as possible, has contrived the idea of photographing the atmosphere which circulates in the streets of New York, enlarged 7000 times. By means of the photographs it is hoped the department will be able to analyze and ultimately regulate the condition of the atmosphere just as thoroughly and beneficially as is done at present with the water supply. « EASY LESSON IN THE SCIENTIFIC GAME OF WHIST . BY MRS. E. P. SCHELL. HE long sult game depends largely for its success upon the mutual un- derstanding between the partners— that a uniform plan of procedure, especially in the matter of the orig- is necefsary, and departure be avoided as much as sl opening, from it should csible. It will, however, happen occa s t the hand cannot be opened with the long suit theory, ance, when the long suit con- of four cards headed by the In such a case you are for opening a short suit. onl sists seven or eight ng good players a wide di- here i§ am vergs e of opinion in respect to the openings, those of the old school prefer- ring to open a four card suit with onc henor than with jack or ten of a small suit. It depends largely upon trump st © which is llkely to be the by While it is advisable to ng irregular openings, occasions will when the hand affordg better If the player never opens irregu- h a card lower than the nine the of decelving partner is lessened, combinations of high cards are of the cards and partner's 1 usually proclaim the irregu- avold no arise : there are players who lead the “top of nothing”—that is, the lead of the st of four or more low or indifferent This is not recommended, as it is complicating—particularly so if you use the rule of eleven. For instance, the 7 is led from the 7, 5, 2 and 2 Partner, holding king, jack, 9 end 8 applies the rule of eleven and rezads' you with an established suit, for the benefit of which he extracts trumps. The result s, you have simply misled your partner, and that is one of the sins unpardonable in whist. The irregular lead should be made from a suit of not more than three cards, and it is not to be accepted by partner as an intimation that you desire to ruff, nor is it a denial or acknowledgment of trump strength. Your partner should know that you have not a suit worth playing for and that you are not necessarily strong in trumps. Your lead will warn him of your weak- ness in the suit led, and he should finesse your strengthening card. Unless he be unusually strong in the suit he should re- frain from returning it. The best suits to select for an irregular opening are those which contaln a se- quence and headed by supporting cards, such as queen, jack or 10. Weak suits with ace, king at the top shou!d never be opened originally, unless the head cards are in sequence. Even then they are best kept for re-entry cards, which may be of great value to your partner, even though you have nothing in your own hand to bring in. If you should lead the ace or king from either with two should find your partner weak in the suit, you have given up the command and es- tablished the opponents’ suit. Therefore, if you are forced to open a three-carded suit headed by ace or king, and you have no indication as to what your partner holds in the suit, you should open with a low card. The practice of opening with an irregular card as a signal to your part- ner to lead trumps through an honor turned is much in vogue among the aver- age pluyers. The student should under- stand “it and have a full understanding with his partner as to whether it shall be used. The best players are almost unani- mous in the agreement that it is a trick- losing play. If the original leader is strong enough to lead trumps he should do so small and | despite the turned-up card, otherwise he is not justified in calling for them. When a supporting card is led to your right you should cover it if able to do so, in order to prevent the third hand from finessing. covering and honor with an ace if you have it. "When you hold the trick and remain with considerable strength in the sult, or when you retain but one card of it and destre to ruff, you should return the sult up to the weakness of the original leader, giving your partner the advantage of the tenace position over your adver- sary. If occasion offers your partner will of course finesse against the opener of the suit. A whist hand by Cavendish. return to keep command: North. Irregular A, Dk, 10, 2. MY VAUDEVILLE ELOPEMENT. Continued From Page Eleven. is, and now that reporter has gone-away convinced that you are the man in the— tke case.” “Great Scott! No!” “What else can he think—now?" I asked. *Geod heavens, but Drex won't belleve it's true, will he?”” Tom could be more emotioral than a woman on occasion. “He must not,” I answered, suddenly coming to my senses. ‘‘He knows it's not true and he should have denied the story there.” And thereupon I sat down and wired Drex a good piece of my mind. “But what about the paper?” Tom ques- tioned helplessly when I had finished. ““We must stop the story,” I cried. “Hew?” “Why, see the editor In person, of course. Come: find out where the office is while I get my coat.” We drove away in furious haste. The editor was evidently as eager to see me as [ was to see him. Before him h2 had the whole miserable story—two full colunms of it. It gave me a strange, sick feeling to see myself print. I wondered if he had learned all about my rehearsal at the theater. It was soon made clear that that was where he had found the address of my hotel. 1 had meant to voice my indignation in quite unmistakable terms, but before I fully realized it I was being subjected to a severe and humiliating cross-exam- ination. Tom was absolutely no help to me whatever. Whenever he spoke he only made matters worse. “You can’t publish this story,” T finally broke off haughtily. “There’s not a word of truth in it.” “Qur correspondent is a very rellable man,” he answered composedly, looking from Tom to me.in a way that made my cheeks flush. ““He has never made a mistake before, and is carefully investl- gating this case—but, of course,” he fin- ished urbanely, ‘“we’ll publish your de- nial in full.” And again he looked at us both insinuatingly. Appearances were certainly against us. ‘We departed crestfallen—baffled—but at the door we halted suddenly at sight of two familiar figures just alighting from a carriage drawn up behind our own. “It's Drex,” Tom exclaimed in conster- nation. i “And his aunt,” I exclaimed in wonder and amazement. They saw us at the same moment and for a painful instant or two we all four stood staring at each other in silence. Then Drex spoke. “What does all this elopement story mean? While I've been searching for you everywhere a reporter has been dog- ging my heel for an interview.” It was evident that he was angry. For answer I could only give him the telegram to read. He took it doubtfully, but as he and his aunt looked it over together they exchanged half quizzica half comprehending glances. “That means us,” his aunt exclaimed. “You quarreled with Uncle Drex before you left, I know, but—" Drex began. “And then our hurried departure,” she finished. “Oho, and so you are the elopers?”’ Tom broke in, delighted to shift the trouble. “Of course not,” Drex retorted spirit- edly, “but—who could have started such a silly rumor?” “Well, you'll have a hard time trying to explain your innocence to the editor upstairs,” I rejoined, as happy as Tom over this strange turn of affairs. “Will 1?7 Well, we'll see,” and we all mounted the steps to the editorial sanc- tum together. It was a very perplexed editor that looked from Mrs. Drexel Hurlingham Sr. to Mrs, Drexel Hurlingham Jr., but, need- less to say, after Drexie's interview was concluded the story of my vaudeville elopement did not appear next morning. But still I maintain it was all Drexie’s fault. He doesn’t know to this day about that rehearsal. He never will know. West. East. 5—A,Q, 7,8 B—10, 4, 2 H.—A, 8. H.-5, 8. C—K, 10,6 2 C.—Q,8,5 & D.—9. 6, 4. DK, 873 Bouth. B-K, 91723 H-K, 3,17 4% C—J, 3 D.—Q, 5. Four of diamonds trumps in West's hahds. Tks. W. N. E. 8. 1 *Ah Qh 3h th 2. *As 5 284 3s 3. Qs 8s 4s *Ks 4. 8h *10h 5h 4h 5 4d 2d 3d *Qd 6. 6d *Ad 7a &d 7. %d Ja Ka 3 8. 6s Te *10s - s 9. Kc *Ac 4c Je 10. Js *10d 8d 9s 1. 2% Jh Se *Kh 12.° 6c 6h 8e *Sh 13. 10c 9% Qc *Th North and South, 9; East and West, 4. Trick 1—North, not being a faddist, can be depended on for leading from strength. South, holding the king of hearts, can therefore credit North with jack, 10. If North adepts the Hamilton lead of 10 from this combination South’s inference is queen, jack in North's hand. This lead is not included among fads, as there is much to be said for it. But having been experimented with the preference is given the old fashioned lead of queen. It makes no difference in this hand which is led, so long as North and South understand each other’s system. Trick 2—East playing 2 of spades on his partner’s ace, can be counted not to have held exactly four spades originally. Trick 4.—South, having confidence in his partner, returns a small heart, that he may not blank his own suit In case the lead was from less than flve hearts. As the cards happen to lle, if South re- turns the king of hearts, North and South only make eight tricks, as may be seen by replaying the hand. Trick 5—North leads a trump, having an established suit of hearts. It may be asked is not the king of hearts being held up by one of the opponents? It is pos- sible, but most unlikely that adversaries who bave neither led nor called for trumps should feel justified in bottling the winning heart. North is therefors forced to the inference that South has the remaining hearts and has returned a small one to keep command of the suit. Trick 7—North's trump will probably draw two for one and leave him with the best and the ace of clubs to come In with. Trick 8—North refuses the force, as he can count East must next lead a club, when all the remaining tricks are certain. At trick 8 East and West can make two more tricks, but it must be borne in mind that the distribution of the clubs is not marked and that the game is not double dummy. Still, it is submitted that West has a better chance by winning the 10 of spades. The position being interesting is subjoined, East to lead: Tck.West. North. East. South. s Js *10d4 s s 9. 6s Jn 4c *Kh 9. 2 7 5c s 1L 6 6h *5d on 12. 10¢ *Ac Qe Je 1. *Ke 9 8¢ Th North and South 8, East and West 5 Trick 8—If North now refuses the force £s he did when the lead was with East (see previous play) he gains nothing, as West leads another spade. Trick 9—If East trumps he only wins this ome trick. Trick 10—See remark on trick 5. The remainder of the hand plays itself.