The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, December 29, 1901, Page 7

BLASI WALKING SUIT WITH JARKET | OF BLAXK YELVET LIXKE AN INVERTED LILY AND THAT FOR THE STREET EAUTIFUL MODES THAT MAKE ALL WO- THERE WILL SHE SAYS THAT EVENING SKIRTS WILL BE SHAPED ] APE—LONG LINES WILL PREVAIL AND MEN OF GOWN WILL BE TRIMMED WITH VERY WIDE | COLORS- -SATIN CLOTHS ARE ON THEIR . HIGE IN LUSTER AND IN PRICE. ] ~ e ame Fashion says d like an inverted pust be more of sleeve, ev: e very wrist, the meck b ngle Sower W ves spread- be continued e flower upon upon the skirt, side. eact The decoration other things will be getting new dancing there can be This Is to line de sole, of or net, light will one band. ¥ under the nex de of green pistache green ree have u he foot to make ness that is the pride of skirt Skirts for 1902. Under the triple skirt there is wofn-a taffeta petticoat of perfectly plain mate- with a knife plaiting set under the The Watteau skirts are made three in number and of th colors. Pink, blue and very light green make a favorite set The result is a pretty green that it. One skirt drops Kkirts, deep. t is cut upon different t the hips and flaring There is sometimes no single skirt of satin, - of peau de soie, or of g, with the flare be- Little fans of chif- rt and chiffon ruffles 's indications 1t would h the woman of 1902 would but wear her best gowns. s there are, to be sure, but are kept well in the background in isplay of the coming modes, and the owns are the only ones that are out. The chiffons and the em- the appliques and the fancy s, crowd out the utilitarian styles. * It has been suggested that fashion is going back to the time when all women were elegantly gowned all the day and hen the cloth tailor-made would have considered a sadly unfeminine viola- tior: of every canon of pretty art. The long shoulder effect is something t will be noted at once. This is se- ed in the house gown by the lace col- , which is very deep and falls almost he waist, front and back. This gives the desired slope, as it can be obtained in no other way. Shoulders for 1802. The low shoulder seam has begun to appear, though*happily it has not come on rapidly. . There are a few gowns cut shoulder seam below the should- wit er rather than on top of it, fairly hug- ging the arm, and the sloping shoulder is the result. -But this style hampers the movement of the urw]‘unlr the new gowns the siope is obtainéd by trimming the sleeve in. such a way that it looks as though the seam were low. he embroideries of 1902 will be the most remarkable of the things to be observed in the fancies of the year. They will b heavy,?and, no' matter what the weight, will.adorn the chiffons. An embroidery. so thick and so be- sprinkled with gems that it would have been approprifite upon the weightiest kind of a brocade was the feature of a chiffon evening dress. The color of the chiffon very was rose; the embroidery In Rose du Barry colored silk. Green leaves, pale buds, long stems and pearl drops stood out against the rose background. o heavy was the embroldery that the skirt fairly clung and sagged and on¢ could predict that its durability would be short. For all wear, street and house, day and night, the princess will lead in approval It is a shape that is becoming to all, without exception, and can be worn by women of every age and clime. That the princess is univershlly becom- ing may be doubted, but really such is the case, as was demonstrated by a modiste of great fashion pretensions. aking a stout woman, she dressed her a princess with very slim effect, and then taking a slender girl, she clothed her inia princess shape, also with very good re- sults. The Princess for 1902. In the making of the gowns there is a wide latitude allowed. It must be a tight-fitting dress, without division between waist and skirt, but it need not be the waxenlike mold which characterized the old princess shape. One form of princess has a walist lald in little side plaits. At the belt line, or where the belt would ordinarily come, the plaits begin to flare and the skirt is formed by releasing all the plaits com- pletely. A perfectly and severely plain princess is relieved of its trying features by the application of long lines of . trimming. These are put on from.the neck down- ward to the very hem, and afford a beau- tiful sweep. Miss Hay wears a black and white even- ing gown cut in princess shape. It has a new princess THE SUNDAY CALL, VELVET FISURED N WHITE foundation of dull white peau de sole, over which s draped the dullest of chiffon, with no trace of the liberty finish. There is not a particle of glisten In the gown, making It i{deal for evening wear during mourning. Miss Alice Roosevelt is wearing some very pretty evening dresses. She is a young woman with money in her own right and can dress as elegantly as may please her, Irrespective of her mother’s $300 edict. Her gowns, while not extrava- gant, are certainly very good examples of the up-lo-dlt/e modes. A gown for evening is In light blue. Its neck is rounding, with a band of lace fin- ishing it. From this band of insertion there falls a deep ruffle almost to the waist. This gives a very juvenile finish to any waist and is a style that might be adopted by many women who would like to follow the small juvenilities of dress. It is'to be & 'year of sets. A set that RN (AN attracted some attention at a December “evening’’ given by one of the literary set to which Willlam Dean Howells and his daughter Mildred belong was worn upon a gown of old-fashioned black silk. The set consisted of a skirt flounce at- tached to a band of lace insertion. Around the hips there was a yoke of lace. The neck had its band of lace insertion, and falling from It there was a deep ruffle of lace. This reached almost to the waist. A set displayed in one of the shop win- dows was made of, Venetian lace. There were lace bands for the elbow sleeves, with a deep rufile of lace falling from the bands. There was a band of lace around the yoke, with a ruffie falling from it. The hip yoke was very deep and the lace flounce was attached to it. This flounce was detached at one side to allow of one- ST way FIRD VAN "RENSSELAER SRUSER ot \yHO FIRST CARRIED By, A HOUSE STATF N A SHOW SUIT 1Yy THE NEWEST TRANS FoR Tn JOMAT OF